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overtook a world record speedboat travelling down the M6 as we returned from a week in Scotland coming back down the M6 today from a week away up near Oban we spotted this beauty travelling down the M6 https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-68489654

Given that with government encouragement you (the UK) now have a plethora of energy suppliers none of whom seemingly actually supply any energy, they just buy and resell and create a smokescreen of green claims, they are selling you grid electricity that they did not supply or create, so why can you not simply charge your vehicle at any charge point and the sum be added to your electricity bill from your energy supplier at your agreed rate? Better still, charge at your destination whether it be a public place, fuel station, business or even a friends house and be billed in exactly the same way? They could make it so that if you go over your monthly direct debit any further charging would be taken from your debit card. Too simple? It's far less daft than encouraging random unrelated businesses to be energy (not) suppliers.

The facilities that I described, have seemingly t'd off from the incoming feed to the water park. I certainly didn't see any tree trunk cables being laid during installation, so the cost of the installation wouldn't be that great, all things considered. The chargers themselves may be expensive, but apart from safety checks, they have virtually no moving parts and should be built to last a reasonable while, certainly I expect them to last longer than a petrol pump before needing maintenance. The 'fuel' itself has no transportation cost, is totally on demand (no storage fees) and the car parking at the water park has always been free. My take is a lot of people are seeing the whole EV thing as an opportunity to make easy money and as we are being asked to go electric to save the planet, being screwed financially by big companies to do so, appears to be extraordinarily cynical. Hopefully the next government will do something about it (Disclaimer: regardless who that government is)

Set off this morning. Car at 100% . 104 miles. Temp never about 4*oC. Had 76 miles to go. Right from the start the range dropped to 94 miles. Then after 5 miles of extra miles with roads closed I the. Needed to do an extra 10 miles. Instead of diversion I headed very narrow roads I know. Went to heating off and near dead power to get to Perth. Then 70 mph to Stirling in sport. Ended doing only 72 miles. But 1 hour 48 minutes and arrived with 30% battery. This is why small battery cars might need topped to full. Diversions, chargers not working like the first one I tried. Started charger on card. No tariff showing on charger. If I am not at 98% I will need to go on the 22 kW AC and charge at a max 11 kW as I am heading v 105 miles to a charger.

Mr May makes a good and balanced point or two

Yes, some mk2 Superbs were built with 16 inch wheels Official tyre size for them is 205/55 R16 94V 6J width rims had offset 50 (48-52 is ok) 7J width rims had offset 45 (43-47 is ok) you need 5 bolt, 112 PCD (bolt spacing), with 57.1mm centre bore

Will do. If the Scala blows up, it will be the fastest it has moved since I bought it 😂

Apologies for butting in on this forum ( I've never had a Superb ) but I may be able to shed some light... There was a similar type of update on my Kodiaq MIB3 some months ago. What I noticed in the update notes was something about over-the-air updates being actioned without the need to stop driving. I'm guessing that's what the above update is refering to. When the system has updated, from now on future OTA updates will give you three options when a future update is available - Cancel, update later, update now. Chose the latter and you can continue driving whist the update takes place.

Every time I service the car, I spray all underneath with undercoat, or spam with wax oil. Just find with all modern cars, the black paint (if it can be called that) just disappears and leaves bear metal.

Some great work there, at least you didn’t find anything else too embarrassing under the seats! When I replaced the rear LH spring my spring compressor didn’t fit - the manual shows kind of blade things that engage with the spring, while the screw bit is off to the side. But I discovered that it was easier to drop the lower suspension arm right down - this involved disconnecting the drop link and the position sensor as well as the damper of course. But dropping the arm right down enabled the spring to be inserted un-tensioned, then I jacked up the lower arm to tension the spring until the damper could be reconnected. The droplinks etc do look rusty, but there was no play in them when I did this job a year or so ago. Mind you with shiny new dampers, maybe rusty drop links will offend!

I've always assumed that you have to hold the button down when the ignition is on for safety. If you touched a button when you're driving, the seat could suddenly move to a position where you can't properly control the car.

So here's some pics of reassembling the modules under the seats. Here's the amplifier and its frame: I've wiped them down a bit, but the amplifier just has what I can only assume is corrosion on that metal bit, quite wild given its inside the car. Here's the TV Tuner: It's really the reverse of disassembly, so for the passenger side with the amplifier: There is a bolt, and two nuts, with the former on the side and the latter two with captive threads on the car floor, so it slots into those: The amplifier then sorta slides into place, with a bit of jiggling: This actually should be done after sorting out the connectors, as one of them is one of them super secure ones, similar to ECU connectors: So you have to slide the purple (fuschia?) locking tab thingy into place: So that's that. The other side is pretty much the same: With the same bolt and two nut securing arrangement: There's a few more connectors for the TV tuner but its relatively idiot proof: The TV tuner has some metal tabs on the side, which are used to keep it in place in the frame, so the unit essentially slides in from the rear towards the front of the car where it will then click into place: Eagle eyed readers will not I haven't put the nuts in place. This is because in my vacuuming of the carpet, I may have also sucked one of the nuts. So its pretty much gone. I'll need to rummage around the garage or order replacement ones, but they look to be a standard M6 flange nut really, not the end of the world. I think that'll be it for this weekend. I could probably hook up the power back now that everything is reconnected (or in the case of the seats, not disconnected at all). I may still take the rear seats yet, and maybe they might have some wiring. So I guess for next week, I'll probably embark on the actual process of installing the suspension. I managed to squeeze my phone into the wheel well behind the wheel and aimed upwards: This could be interesting! I sense I should source some drop links. Maintenance: £1344.91 Upgrades: £337.06 Miscellaneous: £584.95

Hi Ords - thanks for your very helpful and fast feedback ! That's definitely going to help a whole lot :-) My Skoda is a 997cc petrol model.

The PAS being disabled suggests low voltage, check the battery voltage before and after starting the car.

Some people think "free" means at no cost to anyone. It very rarely does. Use of the word "free" should come with a trigger warning.

I have a car that can easily get me to my destination for the walk without using dinosaur juice and with a couple of hours charge can easily get back again. Not using the evil petrol even once. Just because it has a 12kW battery doesn't make it none-EV if I choose that as its mode of drive. The infrastructure is pants and the prices are atrocious. Why have charge points if it is going to cost nearly 3 times the average cost of electricity in your house, and that's just the standard consumer rate, not the eco rates available through the night. I'll probably take my 575PS V8 to the water park as it has a huge tank and doesn't need a top-up to get there and back. It is also more fun to drive. I tried embracing partial electric travel, but the industry doesn't want me. Suits me, I'll stick to ICE more than happily. Shame they wasted a huge amount of money fitting all the unused charge points really

Quite, but that was not the dream that they sold us was it, one of the points they make is BEV's are cheaper to run, which is only true for the fortunate ones who can charge at home or have access to destination chargers at a fair price when at work, which is not even remotely possible or true for the majority of us.

Thanks for this guide. I've just done the rear discs and pads on my 2016 Fabia TSI, and it was useful info to prepare for the job. In my case I did need to remove the caliper brackets to get the new discs on. They actually use H8 bolts, and were a bit of a pig to get off. Not enough access for a breaker bar, ended up using a longish 8mm allen key with a bit of persuasion from a hammer.

I don't think I've ever witnessed anyone at a petrol/diesel pump leave their car at the pump while rhey go to the toilet never mind 5 mins. I certainly have never done that. If I needed to go to the toilet then I would park in a designated parking space nearby and then do my business. Having to stop for a pee or a coffee seems to be something EV owners need I am 70 have BEP but can still manage a 350 mile round trip to London, stopping only to drop off my son at LHR.

One thing I don't miss is people pulling up at a pump, putting in 20 quids worth of fuel, then going inside to do what seems like a weeks shop whilst they leave their car at the pump.

That seems a reasonable asessment and on that basis the petrol station with 12 pumps that Graham spoke of would be capable of 240 fill ups per hour, rather than 144, I suspect the average for a busy service station that has judged the right ratio of pumps to footfall would average 144 across all opening hours, the 24 hour Tescos that I used when in the UK never ever had a pause between customers on any pumps day or night. The supermarkets have got it wrong in my country, instead of having a forecourt large enough to park up after to pay at the till if that is your desire and/or to buy expensive junk food and coffee they have 2 pumps on 24 hour card only payment, the ones I use, they have their own exit lane, the other usually 8 pumps all filter into a clogged lane leading to a payment kiosk open from say 9am to 18.00 with a harried cashier not selling anything value added except bottled gas which I buy, that is on the card only side, it means I have to walk into the queue of motorists waiting to pay, pay for my gas after she has taken the payment from the first car then desert her post to walk over and unlock the gas cage. The fuel station does 4 times the amount of business outside of kiosk hours because all the pumps are on card only payment, many times the revenue and zero staff costs!!!!! The stupidity is as much the fault of the unions as it is the majority of motorists who crazily will not use a credit card payment pump but will then join a long queue of cars in a single lane to pay by card at the kiosk - go figure! The services at the autoroute are laid out like a Tescos, all pumps filling cars non stop, parking adjacent, no-one leaving vehicles for 10 minutes, fuel at 15-20% more than off the autoroute and a restaurant and shops selling good quality meals for a resonable price.

Hi, Just thought I would share my experience on this issue with my 2016 L&K Superb. The boot would only open a small amount and beep three times and stop. It had to be 'assisted' to open and close. I looked into this on the net and found a lot of issues are with broken wires where the wiring goes from the top of the strut into the body. I ran my cheapo OBD2 diagnostic and there were a couple of error codes for faulty motor and hall sensors but I didn't know which side was flagging the fault. I removed the trim on one side, unplugged the wiring and removed the strut. Low and behold one of the wires was about to break but wasn't actually broken, only the outer insulation. Taking out the other side there was a thin blue wire broken. I removed the strut from the car and there was only about 5mm of broken wire protruding from the strut itself. I think dismantling the strut is a major operation I didn't want to do. With some careful soldering I added in some thin flexible silicon coated wire and covered with heat shrink. I also repaired the other side as it looked like it was about the break. Reassembled it all and it works fine again, I wonder how many struts have been replaced because of a broken wire in the loom. The wire is not very flexible and it broke on a very cold day. All in, about 30 mins work and almost zero cost. HTH

James puts most of the points nicely. He does fail to mention that battery density and the popping up of Superchargers if happening between 20% for battery density and 50% per annum fo new charges so his projection of millions of public chargers is off I think and a couple of hundred of chargers is more like like the mark not millions as he rather ill considered stated. 300,000 this decade is the widely accepted this decade and with the massively increasing range on the long range models, and most ie 90% of the EVs doing their charging at home, a million chargers, logically, will not be needed by 2035, 2040 or ever. The massive amount of UK government help, even from a Conservative Government is massive in both cash and diverse ways of helping the transition to EVs..... https://www.gov.uk/transport/zero-emission-and-electric-vehicles

Still not gone yet, few bits and pieces on the for sale site but might close them down as most of them on ebay and that's where most have sold. But still helping people, even upto now. It's one of the best sites going. 👍

Believe it or not I found the cover. Will send PM Stewart.

The sensor lead is a small plug-in tag attached to the negative battery terminal.

In parallel with one of the main battery leads, functionally it could be either, I think its the negative because of the warnings to use a battery charger on the earth stud not the battery negative terminal. I cant do any more than describe because thankfully my car is just old enough to not have stop/start and a battery mismanagement system.

Definitely sounds like top mounts but for me its a relatively easy job having had to replace springs and bump stops on successive vehicles, the last time was cheap shonky bearings, worked fine but then one became noisy and graunchy again within a few months, replaced it again and no more noise, bench testing the failed one it appears in good condition, rotates smoothly, no seperation or loss of balls (ooh err!) like the first failure, a mystery but not mystery where the noise was coming from and your description matches my symptoms.

More interested in the quotes for the MG4 which is a high volumes id sales whilst the BYDs are still low volume. The MG4 Extreme as they are Porsche Taycan, Audi etron beating acceleration for £36.5k. Due my Zoe R135 quote soon and expect it to be well under £500 per year.

To compare i went for a quote on this. Brand new & 10,000 miles a year.

900, to me, pluses - covers for battery lead connectors, perhaps longer mains lead (don't know), better display, trendy it aint (a plus to me) minuses - some too tiny 12v on screen and the 'FUL' is still there that annoys me, and the same mode function button that outfoxes me, new so not time tested in real world use. Evolution rather than revolution, worth a go, probably lower priced from other retail providers, but if the 800 is on special offer at significantly lower price (than it was) to clear stock I'd go with it instead as it's been Ok in my use and others seem to say it's OK. Anything that cuts down on time farting about with the car is good by me and if its easy to use the better, and if it's reliable and long lasting even better. If either blows your car up let us know. 😄

Many thanks. The RSC range still looks good value for occasional use, and they never claim to “wake the dead”. The 800 series is now looking a bit ancient - there is a new trendy 900 series…

I have seen lots of mentions of gear links needing adjusting, so was going to ask my mechanic to check this. Good to know it should be easy to identify if we take it to the dealer though. I will definitely get my mechanic to check the gear box over thoroughly. He did check the car over after we first bought it and he didn’t mention anything like this, but would be worth double checking! thank you for all of your advice, I will try contacting the warranty company tomorrow.

the car has done 60k miles. Yes, sorry for my misunderstanding, it’s a Skoda Approved Used car from a Skoda dealership. it was the dealership I spoke with today, I believe the person I spoke with was from the servicing department. My understanding was we would pay for a diagnosis, but if something was found that was covered under the warranty then the warranty company would pay for it, but if nothing was found due to it being intermittent then it would be a bit difficult. I’m also not sure if something like this would be covered under the warranty.

Hello, thank you for your help. It has only happened with first and second gear so far. I haven’t any crunching when changing gears and no issues going from neutral to first.

Train the young to do the towing. http://bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-york-north-yorkshire-68513071

I'm certainly getting a lot more noise from the front than back. Think I need to do top mounts, but what a job.......and maybe ARB mounts. I'll give them a spray first, see if that helps. It's only really on very slow hard turning and elevation changes, such as turning around for drive and up the slope etc...

Rusty suspension components are common and in many cases the suspension parts are beefy enough for it not to be a problem. However 1) If an MOT tester feels they need to give an unusual advisory, it could be at a far more advanced stage of corrosion than the norm 2) Once on an MOT history, it will put most buyers off unless you can prove its been replaced with a new part not just bodged. 3) Some parts of that subframe are not all that substantial. I've seen pictures of catastrophic failures due to rust where parts are welded together though not on an Octavia 3, which should be too young. 4) Abnormal wear on the inside of the tyre is usually related to camber or tracking. Riding on a broken spring, or wear in bushes. Could be unseen issues that need fixing. Maybe its had a hard life, got lots of miles, not been cared for. Personally I'd just steer clear and look for another car.

it will probably just be surface rust. the black "painted" parts are not painted very well, at all

Had the Superb L&K regular maintenance: * undercarriage and brake system inspection - everything OK * engine oil change (VW504 00/507 00 Mobil Super 3000 Formula V 5W30) * Oil filter (MANN) * Oil cap, oil valve cover mileage: 125 319 km

OP, that was my thread I believe. After putting several thousand miles on all is good (bar what I believe to be the topmounts being sub-par) I intend to replace the rears as I only did the fronts with topmounts, ARB links and outer tie rod ends. I also fitted Racingline 25mm springs. Overally I'd say stiffness is up 15-20%. This doesn't worry me as I often thought the ride to be crashy and not comfy, overdamped for sure. Will B4s or B6s help with your issue? They will feel better, but without replacing all of the components around it's just a small update. Make a list and do it all together. Poor roads need compliance from suspension, often people fit stiffer thinking they will get more control and end up with less due to tramlining, less given, etc. But, the B4s with slight lowering springs is fantastic on fast B roads and really makes it better than stock to drive. On rough roads I don't know if this will be the case. Is it a Lotus Elise? No, but I had fun with my mates E63 AMG touring last year around Wales, he left me on the straights but I kept up in the corners. It did make me think the rear was VERY wallowy and would benefit massively from a stiffer rear ARB. I still plan to fit a second hand MK7 Golf GTi rear ARB, these are 21.7mm over our thinner ARBs (18 or 19mm I believe) these GTi ones can be had for nothing really, I can't justify a few hundred quid for a fancier ARB. I'll do this with rear ARB links and rear shocks at some point. The Club sport one linked above is the same outer diameter but is much thicker than a stock GTi one. Let us know what you decide!

The 1st thing I'd check would be arb drop links and then arb bushes. Drop links are difficult to test in situ by hand, they may feel solid bit still have wear/play, even a small amount can sound awful when driving. They are not expensive and are easy to change so maybe I'd try that. Or disconnect one end and check, if they are floppy/loose then time to change.

Fitted to my Yeti 9 - 10 years ago when R H dip units fitted, one failed late last year, and the other 2 weeks ago. Worth the extra expense in my opinion!

Compared to the light output from the projector lights in my MK2 Octavia the illumination from the H7 Yeti headlights is magnificent, I wont be changing to LEDs. Both vehicles I had fitted with brand new LHD headlights for use in France.

Just don't expect them to last more than 6 months to a year. I speak from experience.

I need to find a way to turn off that nagging “time to get fuel” audible warning whenever I get too half a tank. only happens when the GF is a passenger.

I recently fitted bilstein b8's to my mk3FL . . Difference In performance is night and day. . I upgraded because one of the front oem shocks was shot at 40k miles. . I do have h+r springs fitted hence going for the b8 and not b6. . They are FIRM. . But not over the top firm, unless you drop it down a decent pothole-then they can be quite harsh, obviously this is where the compromise between comfort and performance steps in. . But in my experience upto yet the pros outweigh any cons you might experience. . Where the car used to feel a bit juddey and unsettled due to road condition is much much better now. The way it puts power down is also much improved, probably a combination of less squatting and wheel hop now. If you are looking to upgrade rarb - https://www.darksidedevelopments.co.uk/products/genuine-21-7mm-x-3-6mm-vw-mk7-golf-clubsport-s-rear-anti-roll-bar-upgrade.html This is a nice upgrade while staying quite oem. . I have one on mine, makes a difference for sure but no where near as much as the dampers do.

Justin, thanks. Just a few points then I'll leave you to it. Sorry I didn't mean to suggest you were in any way wrong in posting here, it is after all called 'Performance & Tuning Upgrades' and that's what you are asking about, I didn't make myself clear (often happens) I was thinking as it can be rather slow in this section and for more specific info with B6s fitted to Mk3 Octavia VRSs. I totally agree with replacing items before they fail and before they go too far out from optimum and reasonable and reliable performance (particularly on a performance car driven in a way it was designed (hence why I have no money and car now 😄). Many performance dampers can be "rebuilt"/"refurbed" (of course this means time off the car or two or more sets) and I expect each manufacturer has there own expected life for their different models of damper based on use of course. Things do wear as you say, oils now available cope better with things and help reduce some wear and keep things like seals in better condition for longer. Calculator out, 35k divided by 1.5, times 0.9, is (if I've pressed the right buttons) say 21k /year of rough A / B roads. +1500 Kg isn't heavy for a modern car (doesn't need 18" wheels) but isn't lightweight which is fair enough for a 5 seater road car. Depends if you are fitting the dampers yourself or paying someone else to do that and if it matters anyway. A mass market damper (like Bilstein brand name) may well be very fine and reasonably long lasting or you could perhaps look at a road sport damper from smaller British specialist companies( and perhaps adjustable dampers) which should be robust and reasonably longer lasting if only used on road driving. These things can be not as expensive as first thought and good value if more durable in performance. Tyres, 😄 I'm more used to when 70 was low profile. You'd probably not want too higher performance tyres at 23k/year. I've seen that vid before, from another poster on here, and whilst I'm not a fan of the presenter the point is made that small variations in size won't make a big difference, particularly on modern cars with all the electronic"aids" on them, it's the design, build, make-up, composition of one tyre against another that can make more difference (hence all the tyres and associated specialist people you see at motorsports (not that I follow or particularly like motorsports). Do bear in mind I'm not an expert in anything especially suspension and tyres but when I had the money I'd give a set of tyres 1k-miles (on road going only "sports" cars) and if I didn't like them I'd change them, what's the point of having a 'performance' vehicle (and this could be a MX-5 1.6 or 64hp a.n. other) if you can't get the performance you want (doesn't have to relate to paper figures or needles on dials or digital readouts). Just opinions of a bloke on the internet, as always each to their own. Enjoy your car how you like to enjoy it, good luck, perhaps report back at some point and give what you actually done and how it worked out to what you wanted and needed, cheers.

Maybe it's not the pump but the power cable to the pump?

I hope they are not ran across the width of the A pillar in any place as this can cover and obstruct the airbag and there is a chance if it was to deploy, it may not deploy properly. Pet peeve when people (including garages and halfords) do this! Not saying it will cause issues, but if your airbags are deploying, youd want them to deploy with no wires wrapped around them