Leaderboard

A little spoiler....

I’ve decided the time has come to sell my Mk1 Octavia vRS. It’s been known on the forum for quite a while and a lot of the car’s history can be found here : https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/219974-mk1-vrs-stage-2-r-tech-tuned/ I'm selling because I need to simplify my life. I have four vehicles in total and in reality I don’t need all of them. I’m also selling our van as it’s not really needed any more and then I’ll hopefully be able to buy a Mk3 4x4 vRS diesel. The Octavia is R-Tech Stage 2 tuned and is a great car. It’s running over 230bhp & over 300lb ft of torque and has been since 2013. It was already a good car when I bought it back in 2019 & since then I’ve been fettling it to make things even better. It’s currently on 126k but this will increase as I use it most days. There are two keys and a folder choc full of receipts of things that have been done over the years. The R-Tech printout is also in there to back up the power figures. It's had a lot of money spent on it since I bought it as I was planning on keeping it for a long time. It’s had a new steering rack, uprated clutch, custom exhaust, all the deletes done (with no warning lights), a Recaro interior, DAB CD player & various other things to make it totally reliable and easy to live with. The cruise control is a nice touch too, as are the rear parking sensors. I run it on Millers Nanodrive NT+ oil which seems to suit the car well and I only ever use V-Power fuel. The wheels are currently 18” OZ Ultraleggera with Michelin PS5 tyres but there’s also a set of 17” TD Pro Race 2 with Rainsport 3 tyres on. The OZ wheels are currently fetching over £1k for a decent set with tyres. It’ll probably come on the Team Dynamics wheels unless a deal can be had for the OZ wheels, or both sets if required. I had the bonnet, tailgate, spoiler and rear bumper resprayed last year which cost over £1000. The roof is wrapped black to match the mirror caps. I'm trying to be as honest as I can about the car as I want any prospective owner to be aware of what they are buying. It’s not pristine but when cleaned up it’s a nice looking car. It is used daily now the salt is off the roads and we use it as our family transport unless the dog comes with us, then we use the van. Having said that I planned on giving it a good clean inside when the weather improved to make the carpet as clean as possible. I’m still waiting for a few dry days to be able to do that….. It's not smoked in & I don’t let the kids eat in the car either. I’m located in Scarborough if you want to view the car & thought I’d advertise it on here first before I brave the madness of Facebook & all the pain that will bring. I’m looking for £2500 with the car on the Team Dynamics wheels and am happy to answer any questions you may have. I’ll log in after work most days so if you message me, I promise to get back to you. Alternatively you can message me on [email protected] and I'll pick that email up at the end of each day. Thanks, Andrew.

Here's the pic from Natalie's attachment: Gaz

@Natalie1982 You posted a .heic format file, you need to convert to .mp3 before posting for most people to be able to see photos (I can see it at the moment because I'm currently on a MacBook which can open .heic files but very few Windows PCs can open them).

I was told by the Service Deparment in Parks of Hamilton they actually don't have the equipment to do this type of work.

I agree totally and have written a letter to them saying this very thing. If a dealership sells these cars, they should also have the equipment to service and repair them. I bet they will say that it is up to the dealer to make the servicing arrangements. It's not helped by the fact that there are three Skoda dealerships in the Glasgow area, and my lease company only deals with one of them. But I've contacted our fleet management people to give them a kick as waiting 3 weeks is a joke. And my company has to pay for the hire car till this happens, which the fleet comany are also not happy about.

Based on your existing unit being H06, you probably need a replacement fitting. Get it booked in to a dealer - at least for the Octavia it's TPI 2049942/3

Have to say I was sceptical wether I would think the High Beam Assist was worthwhile, so much so that Skoda agreed to give me a two-month refund window to fully evaluate it, but based on driving in the dark, with appropriate conditions, it functions very well.

I thought it would be useful to create this separate topic and collate information as now Infotainment Software Version 1969 is out in the wild I imagine user interest will increase. All credit to those who posted information in other threads - I hopefully have credited you all where necessary. Feel free to comment on your own experiences and observations. Despite saying I was going to wait for this update to come OTA, based on the principle of “If it ain’t broken….” I bit the bullet and applied the 1969 update manually this morning (I'm a sucker for an update). All went very smoothly and took around 20 minutes. Seems an obvious point but to put your car in ignition mode, which you need to do to apply the update, just press the Start Stop button on its own, without depressing the Clutch / Brake which you would do if you were starting the engine I also switched off the climate control before proceeding although I imagine the Update process would disable its functioning anyway. I followed a previous guide for version 1941 by @TheWanderer which was invaluable. I highly recommend watching the YouTube video in the instructions as you are updating as it is a useful reference of the stages your system is going through. I have copied and pasted his guide below but it’s not my work, full credit to @TheWanderer for this: Create a temporary folder on your PC or Tablet for example MIB3 UG. Then find the zip file and then right click on it or press and hold on it, so the menu appears and it should offer you the opportunity to Extract here or elsewhere, tell it to extract the files to MIB3 UG folder and let it get on with it. When it has finished, format a usb memory stick so it's completely empty, then go to the folder MIB3 UG open it and copy the 2 folders and other file directly onto the memory stick. When it has finished copying the files to the memory stick it should look something like this... THERE MUST BE NO OTHER FILES THAN THIS. Once your memory stick looks like this, remove it and take it to the car. Insert it into a USB port, press and hold the menu button for about 10 seconds and the update menu will appear. At this point it's vital that you have a full or very well charged car battery or a battery charger attached so that the car doesn't shutdown halfway through the process. Ignition needs to be ON, the Engine needs to be OFF (NOT RUNNING)! DO NOT START IT DURING THE PROCESS. Here's a video that shows you what to do, albeit in German, you'll get the English version! If you watch it carefully you'll get the gist of what to do. UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES MUST THE PROCESS BE STOPPED ONCE IT HAS STARTED OTHERWISE YOU'LL MORE THAN LIKELY NEED A NEW INFOTAINMENT SYSTEM. Notes. After it has finished updating the system, give it a couple of minutes to ensure that all is well and like it shows on video press resume an wait for about 90s or so and the system will restart just, like in the video. DO NOT START THE CAR UNTIL THE SYSTEM HAS RESTARTED After the update the built-in manual is unlikely to be available for about 48hrs, it does come back! You will more than likely receive another OTA update, it's OK to accept it. Ultimately if you are at all worried about doing it, take it to a VW Independent or Skoda dealer and ask them to do it for you Once it has been updated, there should be no more random restarts or crashes on the infotainment system, the pop pop issue should be gone too.. https://youtu.be/4AsSbGd3caU

https://cc.skoda-auto.com/gbr/en-GB/

Hi All I'm looking to buy a used L&K Superb. I have spotted one that ticks the boxes, looks legitimate with all the right spec, but when I put the reg in to Parkers or compare the market when looking at insurance, it shows as an Elegance. I tested with a few other L&K's that were advertised elsewhere, and the all came back (on Parkers at least) as L&K's. My question is, does the L&K show on the V5 or somewhere obvious and has anyone had a similar experience when getting insurance or buying theirs? Obviously, I want to make sure that I'm, getting a legitimate L&K and that my insurance accounts for that, so was wondering if there is a good way to check that everything lines up. Be grateful for anyone's advice and thoughts please!

Looking at your photo again the nipple against the feed pipe the nipple is very small, but I'd have thought 7mm would be the smallest size but perhaps that bleed nipple isn't original to the car and brake drum. You don't want to round the nipples off like the idiot did to the front, To get the nipple open you need to clean around the base of the nipple and threads and the spanner/socket flats on the nipple to get the large bits of muck off perhaps with a pick or small flat-bladed (slotted) screwdriver then finer cleaning with white spirit/petrol/brake-cleaner and perhaps an old toothbrush or similar and rag allow to dry or dry off perhaps use a small wire brush to get any remaining stuff/rust off then apply (soak) a *penetrating/releasing agent* to the base of threads and leave to soak in overnight, or more (the secret is time and patience) this gives you plenty of time to find a spanner or tool to fit next day with correct tool you can see if the nipple loosens off, if not redo 4, 5, and 7. It may be than any spanner or tool that small may not have enough give you enough length for sufficient leverage but be very careful about extending the leverage length too much and loosing the feel and breaking the nipple. *penetrating/releasing agent* - this could be GT85, PlusGas or if you have it my least favourite WD-40 (not such a long lasting lubricant) https://www.plusgas.co.uk/en-gb https://gt85.co.uk/ Be very careful not to break the nipple off, you must look, see and feel if the nipple and it's thread are actually moving, if so you can apply a little more penetrating/releasing fluid (GT85 is good as it's also a lubricant fluid. Once you know you can loosen and tighten back up again the nipple you can then think about bleeding (better still changing the brake fluid, flush and and bleed. If the front nipple has been rounded then perhaps its best to replace the nipple with a new nipple. As put sometimes different spanners of the same size (or different size) can be a better fit. I bought a 7mm spanner especially for a bleed nipple and it wasn't as good a fit as I hoped but it done the job, if yours is less than 7mm you could try another 6mm (or 1'4" if you know anyone that has very old British cars) I can't see it being 5mm/3/16". Try the clean, soak & leave and let us know how you get on.

3V0919606 is for Superb, not for Octavia, and it will NOT work with your MIB1 Amundsen. if you want bigger display you have to replace both glove box and display units. Your current modules do NOT support high camera at all, several of them must have SW upgraded or be retrofitted to work with high camera. If you are interested in retrofitting infotainment system pls contact me on PM.

Similar problem have been advised to look at fuel pump relay fingers crossed same symptoms as your self will post when part arrives and is fitted

Shame you have to sell, hope you don't regret it, still miss mine occasionally, but don't miss my MK3.5, Good luck with the sale, hope it goes to a good home.

It’s a January 2022 petrol DSG and just displays D in the bottom left hand corner of the digital cockpit as far as I’ve noticed never D1, D2 etc…..

@pab567 should be able to help with part numbers or even supplying the bits. As a rough guide you cannot simply swap an MIB1 screen. You'll need a glovebox unit too as that is the head unit. MIB2 screens are interchangeable (mostly) within their type. There's little point spending the money on upgrading the screen size without upgrading to MIB2. This will then allow you to get carplay/android auto too. Cost wise things may have changed but you'll need a screen, main unit and maybe a USB port. £200, £400 and £xx roughly in that order. Prices go up for bigger, better systems. You'll also need component protection removal by a dealer and also coding by someone like Pab. These cost roughly £150-200 each. Pab however, can often supply a plug and play solution so worth asking him for advice.

But the point is that when you put a spare wheel on a slightly different size and not even knowing the pressure you can rest the TPMS and then not get a warning. Not with all. and with the Harldex, maybe a Superb then you might have issues. But that is the wrong size spare issue. Also ACC, CC might be disabled. Fair enough. The thing with the Heat is, if you track the car say and the TPMS is set, you might well get a warning, no flat tyre, just one very hot front tyre .

This is true yes. But it's mentally more straightforward to set them the same (or front/back) to ensure they are a good known value. Although the system will work with them at different values it doesn't make sense from a user point of view.

It has to be set when stationary. that is at a standstill. Ignition on. As was pointed out to @J.R. last time he gave the duff gen.

Have always reset mine while standing still after inflating and never had an issue in over 5 years .

When was the brake fluid last changed and the system bled? Get a different manual; I've never owned a car with disc brakes that didn't have a servo.

It's something very small, like 7 or 8mm Natalie, off the top of my head. Very easy to shear off, I know from experience.. I think it's the very thin metal, plus the difficulty of avoiding putting any bending force onto it while working semi-blind round the back of the drum there.

I use WD40 or even vegetable oil. You need something that will take the sticky away. Then finish off with fairy liquid and water to remove what's left.

Westminster City Council has invested £20 million in 45 new fully-electric refuse trucks, the vast majority of which will be charged by burning the waste they collect.

Usually two sides to the coin. So little deep thinking going on. How best to use an EV. Thinking of starting an ev charging business. I come around and park close and charge someone's ev. I charge up my batteries in the van on cheap rate lecky and charge it out at higher rate during the day and evening. Sounds a good business model. They do it in the States but not seem to have caught on here it seems.

I've just commented on the Scala forum as I've been considering a Scala or even possibly a Kamiq (boot size might be an issue for me) but looking at recent manuals for Scala and Kamiq I think the new 2024 models do not need Eurolites etc stuck on the headlights:- https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models - Look at "Lighting, windscreen wiper and washers"/ "exterior Lighting" / "settings". So no stickers needed as far as I can see in the 2024 manual. "With adaptive functions engage travel mode feature. Without adaptive functions. The headlights meet the requirements for driving in countries with opposite traffic direction. No headlight adjustment is necessary. " I looked at the 2021 manual there is no mention re non adaptive headlights - so no idea.

TBH, I think I've checked only one pad with the sensor cable, and didn't think they were any different...? No longer have the old parts, otherwise I'd get them out and re-measure everything, I wonder if the new pads are maybe just so slightly different in measurement (would need to be 1-2mm) and whether they could be causing this... Just checked the ECP website, all different pads for my car (including the Brembo pads) seem to have identical fitment/dimension details ....

@lol-lol I know all about the low paid, hard working etc etc. & the thousands of EV,s the Councils and NHS, Care Companies and others in Scotland have and drivers who do not want to drive them, the ones that get to choose cars and want the 'financial leg up to have a Range Rover Evogue' or what ever, not a Peugeot e-208, Niro or whatever. There are thousands of EV,s not being used for work, not available for car clubs, loan for the public but the public are funding them, then they get replaced in 3 years virtually unused. That is not just because of Covid. There are some 'Senior Managers, Supervisors, Civil Servants doing no work miles or virtually none and getting mileage allowances for what they do when the Fleet Cars are sitting charged up and they could just take one of those. Too much kidology going on.

I did it as described and it works perfect so far, a few days and around 400km no problem. New part is ordered.

Yep, I think it is a characteristic of enough vehicles that it is significant to get comments and threads but not all. But yes, I would think there is a decent chance that replacing the turbo it is possible for the replacement unit to do it....... Don't worry about it! Drive with the windows up. Get a louder exhaust or stereo!! 😉

Based on what I replied here in this thread, with a photo of both turbos it won't fit! 😒...... And to me on the vid file in the attached thread, it is moving in the bushings internally as well...

I've used methylated sprits with success at removing glue residue on car paintwork.

Welcome. Errors can happen when the car is being first registered and the wrong info given. Spec. Clear this up incase you are messed about when insuring it if you buy it. I have had insurance quotes and bought insurance on models not showing the correct trim / name and then on renewal been questioned on wrong details.

The Nextbase rear camera is powered via the front one (I have a 422GW) so USB-C would need to be enough for both. I have hard-wired mine into the fuse box under the glovebox - not a complex task. Took me about an hour to do it tidily.

On the gen 2 there was a clip you could install over the rod pivot point where the rod connects the wastegate arm. I used it on a mk2 fl. It was mildly successful. Although it only reduced the rattle and if the wastegate lever is rattling in the bushes it won't do anything. The clip "may" fit on a mk3 as well. check photos.

achieved 40 miles elec range today with 5% remaining so probably could’ve done 42 miles total. 2 journeys again. First one about 5 miles and 2nd one about 35. Some motorway on 2nd run but mostly town driving and a few 40mph stretches.

Here's what it looks like on the 17" wheels.

... and the deal looks complete. Kodiaq should be here next week at some point, maybe still this week, let's see.

Date of registration: July 2010 Colour: Rallye Green, black alloys Options fitted: Multifunction wheel, parking sensors, climate control, cruise control, retrofitted heated seats. Wondering if there are any previous owners on the forum?

Sounds like you need an Automotive Electrician on the job then if you are not sourcing the fault.

Little trip to my local motoring spot Motorist hub, weather was horrible so very quiet this afternoon

It's QNX based rather than android iirc...

The update files for the update can be found here, credit to @Giannis20 for providing these. megaload link: https://mega.nz/file/994DUTwL key to access file on Mega u22UzB0cTcz6sutXBEx3ivis5DycYea_mq8KFY2vBm4 The megaload will likely limit your bandwidth and make you wait to download the files in three stages with 5 hour waits in between. If you want to avoid this follow @Faab advice: For those who are having trouble with the maximum 5GB limit at Mega; you can get around it via a VPN. Get there desktop application, create a fake account using a spam email account (i have..) and register. Once registered, start the VPN, download the first 4.something GB and wait for the limit. Close the application, disconnect VPN, reconnect VPN, open the Mega desktop client and get the next 4.something GB. Do this once more to get the last few 100mb... IF you do not have a VPN, than you have to wait 2x 6 hours.. They say the limit is 5GB, but it caps out at 4.something GB.. and since the download is above 9GB, it will take 3 attempts.

I purchased this a couple weeks and once the purchase has been processed they should be available to work shortly afterwards - no need to visit dealership. I assume the car needs a signal from the Škoda servers to unlock the functionality. Ensure headlight switch is in Auto, obviously the headlights, on Auto, will only activate when it”s dark which is when you can switch to full beam and see the “A” symbol. The functionality kicks in at speeds over 30mph.

Scroll down this page to the third from last, and last diagrams, click on each for all the info about both of those PR code brake set-ups. Car Parts Catalog - LLLParts

Continued: The TV tuner was next to fit - this is a bit more complicated than just fitting as the place under the OSF seat for the tv tuner is also where the 360 camera module is fitted - so to work around this, The plan is to cut the carpet under the TV tuner and mount the 360 module under the TV tuner, Ill possibly use some thermal paste/pad against the floorpan to prevent any possible overheating. The TV tuner bracket is fitted with 2x M6 nuts and a hexagonal threaded insert with a 10mm bolt. TV tuner slid into place and the cover was then fitted with 2x pop rivets. Now for the spaghetti that is wiring.... A conservative guess for the wiring fitted this weekend was around 250 meters, so just a little bit.... Wiring was ran from the boot area from all modules, the tailgate, the rear antennas, the rear arch wiring and then this all needed to make its way forward down the left and right side of the car. The factory looms were stripped of their original wraps and the new wires bound tightly within. The loom wrapping stopped inline with the front seats and the wires tucked behind the A pillars behind the dash. The aim here was for the wires to look factory, fit perfectly and not have any chafing issues. A range of fixings were purchased just in case the original loom fixings broke, out of all of them, only 1 clip broke. To start - some photos of the messy wiring! The majority is ran down the offisde and then it transfers to the nearside front corner behind the dashboard. The nearside had around 5 wires compared to the 50 or so on the offside. Now some photos of neatly wrapped wires that would you believe it, contain all them wires in the photo above plus the original wires. I think I used roughly 3x 25 meter rolls of loom tape (varying widths and abrasion resistance depending on the areas). Now that was a productive weekend! Got a few more snags to sort out tomorrow morning but then i think I'm due a beer and to rest my back.

The TOTAL battery capacity is 13 kWh, but the "usable" one is 10 or 10.5 kWh. I never saw more than 11 kWh delivered by the charging station for a 0-100% charge (total indicated by the charging App), not even on cold weather when the charging efficiency is a bit lower.

So, just a quick update. I've been running with the latest modification for the past month now and am happy to say it's been issue free. The car definitely runs a lot smoother since the breather simplification. It's also more responsive at the lower end of the rev range and picks up much easier, needing less throttle when running around town. It's booked in for the timing belt sorting and the pickup pipe changing next month as certain things I leave to the experts. I've attached a photo taken in Scarborough on the morning of the 21st - sunrise was at 4:26am!