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Latest Updated Speedcams - June, 2024. Here's the latest update of my customised version of EUR Speedcams ( June, 2024 ). They consist of the full EUROPE speed cameras which I've split up into four consolidated poi categories i.e. Fixed Speedcams, Average Speedcams, Variable Speedcams and Redlight Speedcams. They come supplied with my own preferred personal choice of icons, shown below, to match each of the speedcam categories. Remember to Install them as I explained in the first post in this thread i.e. after extracting the zip file remember to open the newly extracted folder and place only the PersonalPOI folder and metainfo2.txt file onto your sd card ( Please Note: a usb stick will not work! ). Also, please remember to select/tick the relevant newly added poi categories and the poi audible warning alert in your infotainment map menu settings after performing the update or they will not display on your map or audibly alert you. Hope you all enjoy them! EUR Speedcams - June, 2024.zip * Credit, past and present, to Nyky from Gpsurl for the use of his database without which these files would not be compiled.

completely disagree, I have 17" wheels on mine and I don't think they look like toy wheels

Just getting cheaper and cheaper to run an EV.................................

Bit cooler this evening 😁👍

Carpets for a car, every time. Rubber mats just remind me of work vehicles. If I've been out hiking, dog walking, or shooting, I'll be changing out of muddy footwear before I get into the car anyway.

Same for both of ours.

Ah thanks mate. That’s massively helpful. Your car looks insane, I loved the original rims and how it sat before BUT those new rims just make it look hard as nails. 🤣 Great work. 👍🏼

I'm running a solar set up with a Givenergy All-in-one which is basically a 13.5kwh battery wall. The weather we've had the last few days has meant I've spent pennies on the grid electric and sold electric back to grid for pounds. So far this year I'm nearly £700 up on electric costs. The down side is I'm still about £15.5k in the red on the installation costs. 🫤

They are good engines. My other half owned a 1.0tsi Octavia and it went very well. We even have the same engine in our Golf Match 1.0TSI Estate manual. They are really good engines. Long runs will return you 70mpg; Short runs about 50-60mpg. Don't expect anything in terms of performance, but it will get up to speed reasonably quickly and sit on the fast roads all day if you want it to. Bumbling around town is also easy. Expect to use the gearbox and drop it down a cog when it gets hilly. Avoid the 1.0tsi engine with a DQ200 box; engine is fine, but the gearbox will make the car labour and makes it an unpleasant experience. Fuel economy will also be poorer on a DSG gearbox.

We’ll update to this, had an unexpected call to say the car was repaired so I have it back now. guessing the combination of the Škoda uk complaint and the fact I had a courtesy car from them (after two weeks!) gave them incentive to get it done quicker. if nothing else goes wrong before September I think this will be the last warranty year and last visit to a Škoda dealer, back to my trusted independent and take my chances that nothing else major messes the bed….

Sorry, my mistake. I was asking for difference between 1940 and 1969, but i typed by mistake 1960. Does anybody know the differences/changelog/version history ? Thank you.

I noticed the flip down seat lever, not too worried about them not folding flat, rarely carry loads that the boot couldn’t handle and they aren’t completely flat in the yeti either. I think the one we are waiting for is a se tech so had a start button, auto tailgate, (the kids liked that part) but also on a 19 plate

Probably means 1969

It’s all part of the fun 😂 tbh today I’ve been out and test drove a Honda CRV, Civic estate, mondeo estate and Fabia estate and each of them had good points and bad points but while talking to the wife each car even she was comparing them to Octavia estate and we keep heading back in that direction. For the price point it offers so much more for the money than all the others despite 2 of them being nearly 2k cheaper. So unless the drive when the car eventually arrives on site is horrendous I think it’s the route we are taking. Are all the mk3’s stop/start? I know it has push button start but it’s not listed in spec as stop start. Has anyone found a way to code this out yet if so?

Yes I just saw it! I can't vote for one or the other. Carpet in summer rubber in winter.

Rubber in winter carpet in summer. You can do a poll on Brikoda you know @Happy_owner

I think it's meteor grey in the UK but might be called steel grey in other markets. Example supplier: https://www.kopacek.com/octavia-iii/emblems/octavia-iii-original-skoda-emblem-i-n-t-version-colour-f7a-steel-grey

Shipped Monday from Czech arrived today. Can't fault it. Fit perfectly (as you'd expect of course)

They have the often buckets of sh!te because they were not serviced as to keep up the Manufacturers warranty hence they got for 'Much Cheapness' So you want to know you can purchase a Skoda / VW Used car warranty. They do sell them to you, only later if ever you need to claim to tell you it is invalid.

If they say they have no Service History with them and price according then good. But if the Service History was on line they have the System to look at that, and they will have and have it at their finger tips, Just as a Main Dealer to check the history on the system. Have you got the VIN or just the registration number? Someone will be along that will help you. *** The PHEV,s are due Oil & Filter changes annually, / 9,400 (10,000) miles. ***

Ps as to serviced in line with Skoda service recommendations. There are Skoda approved used cars (VW, Audi & SEAT) with FMDSH that have not been serviced to Skoda guidelines, recommendations, schedules or specifications. Maybe brake fluid not changed or spark plugs or what ever. If it is a Skoda Superb iV 1.4 TSI then the oil and filter changed are fixed regime. 12 months 9,400 miles. The DQ400+e DSG is at 40,000 miles. Spark plugs at 40,000 miles. Fixed regime, as they recommend what is done. Not that much...

Several things to be aware of : 1) With a relay system you will almost certainly get a bulb failure warnign as the relay coil will not have the same resistance as a Halogen bulb. 2) 100W bulbs will not be CE marked or certified for road use - so using them on the road is not legal. Selling them is legal but using them on the road is not. 3) The heat from 100W bulbs compared to 55W bulbs will probably cause damage to the plastic headlamp housing. 4) The LED bulbs will not produce the same beam pattern as the light emitting parts will be in a different place to the Halogen bulbs, causing an uncontrolled beam pattern which is likely to cause glare to oncoming drivers. The only legal and viable option is to replace the 55W bulbs with brighter versions that are still 55W - Pjilps, Osram, etc. sell these.

Its a pity the Us Gallon cannot be changed to UK Gallons

The Skoda Secret Service and Servicing Campaign updates bite them on the bum. As it is because of past lemons that have been handed over to customers that then require updates and inconvenience the customers they would be better being upfront and transparent when there are issues. It is people's hard earned buying the cars or leasing and the Muppets try treating them like Mushrooms. Keep in the dark and shovel with sh-!t.

Yeah, sorry if my guess caused any confusion or alarm. Just going off what little information Skoda UK were able to tell me, even my dealership were in the dark until earlier this week when a fix magically appeared!. Admittedly the email i received from Skoda UK customer services was a bit vague and they did admit that they weren't very technical!! gist of it was that there is a software fault with 1.5 TSI and DSG and my Karoq was in that group. Lets be honest Skoda aren't going to admit a problem or elaborate any further if it results in negative press are they?

FYI Both our 4x4s had/have full depth spare wheel wells, normal spare wheel and false floors. I suggest a close look at the parts diagrams and in particular the PR codes; 'bottom plate for rear' diagram for a 2007 Octy is HERE, scroll down for the parts listing. Item 5 (bottom plate) appears to be the key one and appears under three sets of PR codes: 4P1 = Rear floor panel module, type 2 4P3 = Rear floor panel module, type 4 1X0 = Front wheel drive 1X1 = Four wheel drive - from which I suggest the correct floor panel for a 4WD would be the type 4 - 1Z9813114C. What none of this detective work can uncover is exactly what is different between the various versions of the floor panel. You might also want to look at under body trim HERE, rear axle HERE, brakes HERE, gearbox (for 4wd mounts) HERE, fuel tank and mounts HERE, and a miscellany or electrics/electronics - especially for the Haldex system.

Dog owner, Scout leader and mountain/road cyclist. Wash down rubber for me, including boot tray. I tried carpet mats in a previous car and after a few winter months they started to smell quite ponky and I am lazy and can't be arsed to clean them constantly as they will only get dirty again!

Speed adjust is a part of the variable cruise control, isn't it? You use the two buttons on the very end of the stalk to increase or decrease the set speed.

Thinking about it I think the boot floor was at a higher level in the 4x4 than normal FWD cars though as it didn't have the variable level and underfloor storage arrangements.

Update, They found nothing wrong with the dsg, correct oil level, they did an adaptation but everything is still the same. I'll go to a transmission specialist. This is a thing I noticed. When I release a little pressure on the gas pedal during the shift, the dsg shifts quickly as it should. I don't understand where the problem is.

Speed Adjust and Speed Limit are different functions on his car - see the picture.

Thanks all for replies. Still waiting for the car to arrive. Managed to see an identical copy of the car at Skoda today. Could have been the one that was in the body shop today. Salesman gave me the keys and allowed me to look around but couldn’t drive it as it was already sold and awaiting collection. Hopefully it will be on site late this week early next. I’ll let you all know how it goes. Don’t know if I mentioned before but it’s in energy blue. Never seen the colour in person before only in pics and have to say I don’t hate it, which is weird for a free paint that some people seem to be offended by 😂

IIRC I think my mk2 Octavia had the issue with the leaky boot, there was a fix on here like sealing something inside the inner wing? Never happened again after that. Seems a common thing on the octy’s unless there’s a new issue causing leaky boots that you refer too?

Our 4x4 still had a full size wheel well...

look for front matrix LEDs, ACC, lane assist, BSM, check if the front bumper is not damaged; front radar is in the grille and cannot be manually aligned avoid panoramic sunroof avoid the DNUA 272PS 2018-2020 engine

My mate owned an Up GTI 1.0tsi manual, the engine seemed impressive, although the car was a bit lighter. Regarding my dsg (dq200), it's my second mated to the 1.5tsi engine, the both auto boxes have performed faultlessly, always smooth & my current Octavia has now covered 66k now. The start and stop system has always been a bit of a pain within all my vag cars, so I tend to switch it off, whether it be the 1.0tsi or the 1.5ti engines. I also had an ongoing boot leak into my previous Octavia (not this one), so I'd take out the spare wheel & if it's at all wet or feels sticky under it, leave it well alone.

That's cost of a new high end kitchen. I personally think solar + battery system is more value adding to a house than new kitchen........ wife disagrees. 😑

I used to have hub-centric spacers before when I had the factory rims, but not anymore since I got my aftermarket rims. With the aftermarket rims the wider rim and offset combo make it sit almost the same as I had with the spacers. Before Spacers:- 12mm front, 10mm rear Rims:- Factory 19x8 ET44 Tyres:- 245/40/19 Now Spacers:- None Rims:- Rotiform 19x8.5 ET35 Tyres:- 245/40/19

Front bevel box or transfer case oil changed this afternoon after work, very awkward to fill up as the fill it right next to driveshaft under the shield for cv boot, glad I won’t have to do that probably ever again , That’s all the major oils done now as the gearbox had only been done 20k ago

Sounds like you got a problem with wiring or connectors. Check those first.

I had a 1.0 litre Octavia saloon. I genuinely think it was the best car I ever owned. Fast enough for me and would cruise at 70mph all day long. I swapped it in January for a 1.0 litre Karoq which is a heavier car. Again no problems with the engine but I am not a boy racer.

The Octavia 1.0tsi is actually not that heavy compared to most direct competitors, I can only think of the slightly smaller Peugeot 308 estate being lighter. Acceleration times to 100kph are supposedly a fraction under 10 seconds, which is pretty respectable for a 'lawn mower' sized engine but expect performance to be noticeably compromised when loaded. The turbo is more tuned for low end torque but I thought the engine revved more easily and smoothly than I expected from a 3 pot, though not as turbine smooth as the larger 4 pots. There should be no problem with motorways, or the hills in your area. If you lived in a hilly area a bit more capacity would be welcome. Consumption can be outstandingly good when driven sensibly, or just reasonable with a heavier right foot. Performance and especially economy should be noticeably better than your 1.2 Yeti imo due to less weight and better aero.

This was supposed to be a photo of a Small Blue butterfly up on Beachy Head an hour ago, but I guess he/she wasn't feeling it. Still came out okay though: Gaz

Hi OP. We're all wondering... Have you managed to make a purchase yet? If so what did you get? Thanks

Mains pressure should be ok. about 50psi needed. If you have a trigger nozzle on your hosepipe, strick it to the power jet setting, if you can fire it vertically about 20ft in the air you should be good

Does the socket in the boot work? If not then because they share the same fuse it could be as simple as a blown fuse.

Which lights? I'd suspect a battery issue, battery connection issue, damaged maxi fuse or a clocks fault personally.

Hello Modzo Gaz

Early software revisions require a visit to the dealer first as it requires additional work and possible component replacement after 1896, you should be able to upgrade, but it might be advantageous to do it in two steps, in that you do 1941 first, making sure that it's all stable and fine, then do 1969 next or just leave it to update itself.

Neither has a wet cambelt, don't know why you imagine VAG ever use a wet cambelt. They are both EA211 series engines and have fully dry lifetime (15yr/180,000 mile) cambelts. A few people report low speed drivability issues with the 1.5tsi, something that plagued many early 1.5tsi engines but seems to occasionally pop up with the latest gen 2 engines There was a batch of 1.0tsi engines years ago that had self loosening cam phasers that convertered the cambelts to wet ones, unintentionally. Driving both is the only way to judge what you prefer. I was very surprised how good the 1.0tsi was in a Kamiq I hired abroad probably the 110/115bhp version. I wouldn't be surprised if you find the 1.5tsi a bit dull by the accounts I've read. Many consider it a step back from the previous gold standard 1.4tsi it replaced.