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Thought I would make sure they fit OK, they do fit with loads of clearance and I also believe they are going to look rather nice

In general, I would suggest ignoring anything marketed for "gaming". It's overpriced junk. Focus on office chairs, especially 'operator' chairs designed for 24 hour use, such as dispatchers, reception, security or similar. They usually have quite firm padding, but this is what makes them so supportive and comfortable over long periods. You can find a Pledge Solar for quite reasonable money and it has a wealth of adjustment. Ticks all your boxes and beyond, including inflatable lumbar support.

I work for PXC (formerly TalkTalk Business) and our offices used to be opposite Awesome, was always fun seeing what they were getting in on their Dyno

So got some of the vrs' panels on And a new set of lamps Nice DPA ones with black inserts.

I thought it would be useful to create this separate topic and collate information as now Infotainment Software Version 1969 is out in the wild I imagine user interest will increase. All credit to those who posted information in other threads - I hopefully have credited you all where necessary. Feel free to comment on your own experiences and observations. Despite saying I was going to wait for this update to come OTA, based on the principle of “If it ain’t broken….” I bit the bullet and applied the 1969 update manually this morning (I'm a sucker for an update). All went very smoothly and took around 20 minutes. Seems an obvious point but to put your car in ignition mode, which you need to do to apply the update, just press the Start Stop button on its own, without depressing the Clutch / Brake which you would do if you were starting the engine I also switched off the climate control before proceeding although I imagine the Update process would disable its functioning anyway. I followed a previous guide for version 1941 by @TheWanderer which was invaluable. I highly recommend watching the YouTube video in the instructions as you are updating as it is a useful reference of the stages your system is going through. I have copied and pasted his guide below but it’s not my work, full credit to @TheWanderer for this: Create a temporary folder on your PC or Tablet for example MIB3 UG. Then find the zip file and then right click on it or press and hold on it, so the menu appears and it should offer you the opportunity to Extract here or elsewhere, tell it to extract the files to MIB3 UG folder and let it get on with it. When it has finished, format a usb memory stick so it's completely empty, then go to the folder MIB3 UG open it and copy the 2 folders and other file directly onto the memory stick. When it has finished copying the files to the memory stick it should look something like this... THERE MUST BE NO OTHER FILES THAN THIS. Once your memory stick looks like this, remove it and take it to the car. Insert it into a USB port, press and hold the menu button for about 10 seconds and the update menu will appear. At this point it's vital that you have a full or very well charged car battery or a battery charger attached so that the car doesn't shutdown halfway through the process. Ignition needs to be ON, the Engine needs to be OFF (NOT RUNNING)! DO NOT START IT DURING THE PROCESS. Here's a video that shows you what to do, albeit in German, you'll get the English version! If you watch it carefully you'll get the gist of what to do. UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES MUST THE PROCESS BE STOPPED ONCE IT HAS STARTED OTHERWISE YOU'LL MORE THAN LIKELY NEED A NEW INFOTAINMENT SYSTEM. Notes. After it has finished updating the system, give it a couple of minutes to ensure that all is well and like it shows on video press resume an wait for about 90s or so and the system will restart just, like in the video. DO NOT START THE CAR UNTIL THE SYSTEM HAS RESTARTED After the update the built-in manual is unlikely to be available for about 48hrs, it does come back! You will more than likely receive another OTA update, it's OK to accept it. Ultimately if you are at all worried about doing it, take it to a VW Independent or Skoda dealer and ask them to do it for you Once it has been updated, there should be no more random restarts or crashes on the infotainment system, the pop pop issue should be gone too.. https://youtu.be/4AsSbGd3caU

Hold in on the Menu button for 3-5 seconds - then you'll get the page saying Software update. There you'll see it

Contacted Marshall Skoda local to me , they ran a check and turns out the car did have a dsg service at Skoda , is due again but is thankfully up to date , they don’t know why it was not on the service print out though

Who'd have thought 8 years on l, the Varta batteries would be £10 more than Bosch S5 batteries on Tanya Just swapped my battery this morning to a Bosch S5A08 on my 2014 Superb MK2 2.0TDI L&K 4x4 (should have done this last week, but wasn't well), as been having a lot of problems with ABS Sensors and TMPS Sensor fault codes on O/S front axle. Was having to contemplate destroying a bolt head holding the sensor on to replace it, as it has properly seized in after 10 years and then go through all the hassle of drilling and tapping and possibly destroying the item it's attached too, which I think it's the wheel bearing hub assembly? 🤔🤔🤔 Done 50 miles today they turned off 20m down the road and have never come back on...yet! However the oil leak on either the seal DSG gearbox or big end seal looks like it has got a lot worse, since I had the engine completely professional steam cleaned top to bottom 2 months ago 😟 Glad I had all them fluids changed 6 months ago 🤦

Just been to my car and can confirm air is ditributed to both side vents whatever the setting. If it showed air to these vents all the time on the screen people would think there was something wrong with the selection so you can't please everyone either way I don't think.

Just FYI, bear in mind this manual is for a Passat but it gives a good reference for expected temperatures at a given ambient:

Thanks, but it isnt this. I have already fixed the wastegate with repair kit.

3k on the clock? That's an amazing find! My main concern would be anything made from rubber. I'd be changing the timing and aux belts as soon as possible. Then my main priority would be have a good look at the state of the calipers and replace discs and pads. These don't normally rust, but do give it a good looking at all round in case it's been sat with moisture trapped somewhere.

There are several different engine types -1.4TSI, 2.0TSI, 2.0TDI,... which are all different engine families and hence will look very different.

I think my first post lacked detail, so here goes. My 2020 Scala has Amundsen head unit and I have a connect package which can update traffic conditions for the inbuilt sat nav. Within the sat nav there is a setting to warn if travelling faster than the speed limit for the road driven on at any time. The warning is an audible double beep. Beepbeep. If I'm travelling faster than 30 on a road with a limit of 30, or 40 on a road with a limit of 40, and so on then I get the beepbeep warning. I choose to have it enabled (don't want points on licence after attending a speed awareness course already!). You can of course turn it off if you don't need it. It's most useful when speed limit changes downwards on a journey. Ignore all of this if it doesn't fit with your sympton. Cheers

There is a work around to get a more recent map update as per the attached thread. The second to last post is mine, which if you expand show instructions for getting the map update. . You can see my screen shots showing the latest map date available and also my version number, which is later than yours. This is the thread to help you get the latest firmware version.

Hello, it seems you have the latest firmware. You unit is most likely an Amundsen mib1. You will not be getting any recent maps on this unit, skoda stopped updating them about 5 years ago. For the radio logos, I can't tell, I think it should be automatic.

Ah ok, so it’s the DRL that turns off. Not the headlight. The Mk3 Octavia is the same. The indicator is the same LED strip as the DRL.

It was down earlier alright but seems ok now.

sound like mine tbf. do you know if that was a warm start or cold start? mine is quite rattily on a cold start. less so when warm. They aren't the quietest of engines though.

Conti EcoContact are LRR tires (Low Rolling Resistance) - which means lower friction, and also less noise. I noticed they were quiet - had them factory fitted on my Formentor. I had to remove them ASAP, since they were loosing grip on almost every sportier start (from 0 km/h) and sometimes while braking on wet - they made the car feel extremely insecure.

There doesn’t need to be, at that age and mileage. From my understanding…

So NTA16, car standing for 5 days and battery reads 12.2v which is a good sign. No starting problem. Thanks for you link and assistance appreciated. Yes I have a Austin A35 from 56...not much goes wrong there. Thanks Enter name for your input. I will now connect my Android player unit.... 👍👍

From the owners manual, non-Kessy Kessy

Following Skoda Digital advice I performed a factory reset on my vehicle and tried again and got instant connectivity.The app is now up and running.

My 2023 Karoq was updated today. My excellent local /supplying main dealer confirmed the campaign is 57NL and relates to the car locking with keys inside. Took less than half an hour

@JD52 Worked fine - thanks again.

I bumped it for today's new member with a question about a noise.

What size wheels has it got on? Larger wheels give more feedback to the steering. Try driving one with smaller wheels see how it feels.

HI All, ive gone for 4X Bridgestone Turanza TUR6 XL 215/40/R17 W (87) and its a better ride as in its not as hard when going over bumps.

It wasn't done to my Superb today, and it wasn't even me who did it, but here's a tale for anyone who's interested. My car was booked in with the usual local independent in a few weeks time to have new brakes, an MOT and look at the rear screen squibber, which wasn't squibbing. In the meantime we took a 10-day holiday in Perthshire, and on one day, on accelerating up a slip road and joining motorway traffic, various alarm and warnings suddenly started appearing on the dash - stability control, hill hold, ABS, cornering lights, front assist and park assist. Subsequent to that, on a number of occasions at car park speeds, the engine would temporarily refuse to rev enough to move the car properly, and on one occasion it revved without me using the accelerator, so that I had to brake to slow the car down. I had guessed from previous experience that an ABS sensor might be to blame for the warning messages, so I took it to the nearest Skoda dealer who, surprisingly, was able to fit me in for a diagnostic the following day. Following the diagnosis (£69) and their apparently routine "health check", I was advised that the following were required :- * OSR wheel bearing and sensor : £607.42 * NSF wheel bearing and sensor : £624.82 * front brake discs : £769.33 Total £2001.57 They said that the car was safe to drive, so I continued with my holiday and, on my return, took the car to the independent garage for the brakes and MOT, plus this new extra work. They confirmed the diagnosis, fitted new front and rear discs and pads, fitted both wheel bearings/sensors and carried out the MOT, for a grand total of £1234.60 ! Now, genuine Skoda parts may or may not be of better quality (although I've never needed new wheel bearings on a car before, so possibly not) but to get the same work that Skoda quoted for, plus rear brakes, plus an MOT, from an independent (who I trust implicitly) for £835.97 less was something of an eye-opener. As an aside, Skoda had said that the wipers were not clearing and required replacement, even though they were, and still are, clearing the screens perfectly well. They quoted me £63.72 for the front pair, and another £63.72 for the rear one, when I can get the Bosch Aerotwin front pair for £27.05 and the rear for £10.58 from wiperblades.co.uk as I write, and I know for a fact that they are considerably better than the Skoda items. Interestingly, while they were discovering that the wipers weren't clearing the screens, they failed to notice that nothing was coming out of the blocked rear squibber ! Anyway, I needed to get that off my chest - thanks for reading. Incidentally, I posted something a couple of months ago about press reports that a hard-wired dashcam was considered a "modification" by insurers, and might void the policy if they hadn't been advised of it. I informed mine (LV) at renewal time last month and, once I finally got someone who knew what they were talking about, was told that they considered it to be a "safety feature", rather than a modification, with no effect on my premium - it's probably worth informing your own insurers, though, just in case.

It's good practice to save the existing files on to a PC beforehand, so you have them as a backup.

The security partition is not visible using normal tools. You have to delete the existing files or format the sd card. Then copy the extracted files onto the sd card.

You get the idea, if you need to ask "why?" please see the front wheel. Gotta wait till I can afford & sort some tyres now but they are nice & light at 8.8kg. Was a toss up between the Matt Grey or Bronze so I decided I'd go "a bit different "this time.

It could be the fuel pump in the tank, try using your ears to pinpoint where the noise is coming from.

Thanks very much everyone - got the full size spare sorted now with the cut to the plastic trim. Appreciate the advice available on this site.

Sounds like you have a MIB1 (map updates stopped in 2020 5 years after last used in production which was mid 2015), which cannot support AA or CarPlay. The only option is to upgrade the screen and Glovebox unit to a MIB2, best plan is to contact @pab567 who can usually help at better than dealer prices.

It will do this when there are fault codes stored in certain modules of the car that may effect the blind spot assist. Youll need to clear all modules of faults first then post a full fault scan afterwards of what comes back. The blind spot will stay on even after ignition cycles unless there are faults stored.

Thanks. Please make sure u don't put different sized tyres between the front and rear!! All 4 must b the same.

Once you see it you can't unsee it

Hi, @HeavyMetalRich! Thanks for your awnser! The engine is ATD 1.9tdi Just managed to finish the mission a few moments ago and until now seems like a success. Had to bend the new pipe slightly so it could fit, not oem part.. Got scared for a few moments but finaly managed it.. Engine heated up to 75ºc, thermostat opened, water circulated no problem and temperature started lowering imediately and until now no leaks. Seems like a managed. The housing i just removed it used same gasket and bolts and didnt seem to have any leak. However il probably order that gasket and ask a proper mechanic to bolt everything down to spec. As i tried with the torque wrench but got to scared with the bolts braking on the block, might aswell leave that part for the pros. Its scary to see parts firmly bolted down and the bolts still spinning freely while torque wrenching it. No leak seems good so far.. Will post here some pictures of how everything was when it was opened.. until now seems like everything worked out. 💪

Shocks are probably fine, as far as that goes, as all Up!/Citigo variants are well-known for poor quality shocks (often branded Monroe) that rattle and rumble. If you do fancy some new ones, get a proper brand like Bilstein, Koni etc. Much discussed on the Up Owners Forum. As for creaking, unless the bush has rotted, silicone should be fine, but best if you unbolt, clean and then lube with silicone. It could be a different bush though, and the action of jacking the car up moved the problem bush slightly, but the car has settled again. Try spraying the other bushes. Also, it's common to find the rear suspension top mounts over-tightened, and they can creak under the big washers.

I have one of these, and it's far better than I expected it to be. Very useful and surprisingly easy to get it to cut in a straight line. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Circular-HYCHIKA-Blades-4500RPM-Plastic/dp/B07RZZMR7J

@VAskodas If you measure the temperature in the cabin when the AC has been on does it ever get down to 16*oC ? How much cooler than that do you want the interior? What is the outside / ambient temperature?

Just moved from a 2020 Karoq SEL to a 2024 Octavia Estate SEL and the Octavia is a generation ahead of the Karoq. Octavia drives a lot better and the practicality of the estate is second to none

Sorted this out - did a “Restore To Factory Settings” which unlinks the car to the user accounts. Then logged back in / reconnected the user accounts to the car and immediately started working once I has re-assigned each key to the individual accounts. All seating and driving data retained as I guess it’s stored in the Cloud.

SW1800 https://drive.google.com/file/d/11NBwClB4plCD1Ent1ZyP6xfHJNYjZz2E/view?usp=sharing

My humbe opinion... Škoda or beter VAG group IT department is a big joke... Their service is laggy, comparing to Tesla opening car door which takes more than 20-30 seconds is a joke, comparing to 3-4 seconds on Tesla... Their service can't even produce 99% of server uptime...

Yeah I'll second that. Road noise from the tyres was my biggest issue from (nearly) new. Until I did a tyre change it was awful on anything other than a very smooth surface - and they are like hens teeth!! When I changed my tyres lower DB rating was a major factor, and yes I know its measured as a drive past reading, but if each tyre is 6 / 7 DB quieter isnt that 25DB less overall? Nice thread BTW, I'm suprised how much is going on behind the door panels!!