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Been a busy few days so some down time and fish and chips at Eyemouth this evening.

Does the pinned thread at the top of this section ‘The Mk3 Octavia TDI water pump thread’ answer any of the concerns you raise? Gaz

If it's hot outside I'll try to get the temperature down to 22 degrees. If it's cold outside I'll try to get the temperature up to maybe 19-20 degrees - because I'll usually be wearing more layers. Adjust to suit passengers as necessary (but my Octavia does have dual zone controls).

Visiting Royal Navy patrol boat, HMS Explorer. The hull is good for 50mph, engine dependent apparently.

"I'm not anti-EV" you say; yet every chance you ever get to try to knock them, you jump at it. It's pretty funny, really.

I also started giving it a really good thorough clean. Interior was pretty clean but exterior was covered in tar spots. Started with a good degreaser, pre-wash and main wash. Unfortunately I had run out of tar remover and Halfords didnt have much choice except Autoglym stuff which was pretty poor. I managed to order some Autobrite Just The Tonic but had to wait for it to be delivered. I managed slowly to de-tar and go over with a clay bar the front, bonnet, all doors and roof. I then went over with Autoglym Super Resin Polish on a soft DA pad to give it some protection. Plan is to finish the de-tarring, go over with Menzerna Super Finish Cut and seal with Collinite 476s.

I just stumbled across this idea that Ford are looking to bring to cars soon, 3D holograms of security guards or dogs etc that could be used to protect your car against would be thieves in the future. The system will guard your car and when it detects the presence of someone in proximity to your car sent an alert to your phone and activate these moving 3D holograms to deter them. Thoughts? Ford wants holograms of security guards and dogs running around your car | Top Gear

They use bog Standard Ford Transit Connects with ICE. No EV s harmed here

I don't think Yeti 1.6TDi was ever available with DSG

Hi all, Have long been a silent lurker of BRISKODA, but finally have gotten around to making an account! Thought I’d share my new daily - a 2012 MKII Octavia L&K Estate DSG (2.0TDI 140). Purchased it to serve as my new workhorse and successor to my old Audi A2, and having owned it now for two weeks or so I’m beginning to see why they're so highly rated. With 146k on the clock, it's well on its way to the moon - but given the flawless MOT history and low number of former owners (two), I thought I'd chance my arm. I'm pleased to say that so far, so good (touch wood). I'm planning to upgrade the car over time up to ‘OEM plus’ standard - ie tastefully modified. Whilst this is only going to be used to munch the motorway miles, as the saying goes: life's too short to drive boring cars! I also figured that, just as I once did for my old A2, I would use this forum to keep a log of any upgrades. Since purchasing it, I've managed to find some 16" OZ Superturismo wheels for a fairly reasonable price on eBay. Being an inch smaller in diameter than the standard fit L&K alloys, these seem to have made a small improvement to the comfort since swapping them over. As another added bonus, the OZ's tip the scales at approx 8.9kg per corner - which is c.2-3kg lighter than the factory alloys (from what I can gather via Google). Whilst I expect the that only reason my Skoda will ever end up at a racetrack is to spectate (and not participate), there's no harm done in shaving c.10kg of unsprung mass! After all, you can take the man out of the boyracer, but you can never take the boyracer out of the man etc... I don't have a definitive hit list of upgrades I'd like to carry out - but I have some rough ideas. Over the next year or so of ownership, I'd like to: swap out the headunit for something a little more modern/CarPlay friendly; replace the original steering wheel with a FL Yeti/Superb unit; install some sound proofing in the doors and boot; upgrade (at least) the front discs and callipers to VRS variants; install lowering springs (without killing the ride comfort); and get a Stage 1 remap (probably after fitting a new turbo for preventative maintenances' sake) Whilst I don't particularly want to spend silly money on the Octavia, I do think it's only a few subtle tweaks away from being on par with most new-ish stuff - at a fraction of the price. I've also reasoned with myself that, provided I spend less on upgrading the Octavia than I would have spent financing a new equivalent, I'm saving my wallet (and the planet). Peak man-mathing, I'm aware.

My climate control is set at 20° in Summer and 21° in Winter. GFs spends most of the time at 20° but has short burts down as low as 17° 😁

I'd thought 21c for testing is a common temperature. Car: 20-22c, depending on outside weather. If it's hot, 22c because I'm wearing less to start with. If I'm wearing stuff for 10~15c like today, then 20c. I also don't like wearing jacket for long drives in winter, then I'll probable bump to 21c. Wife's zone: 22c all year round + heated seat. May even get bumped to 23c. Her Leaf is short distances, she uses heated everything and 20c in winter. At home, it's generally 20c with smart thermostat downstairs in the living room. Upstairs can get to 23c on a sunny winter day, wife likes to stays up there and I prefer down here. New thread direction, why do woman like it hot? 🤣 Also, not all cars are tuned equal:

That is exactly my point; you're describing design behaviour for a VAG fascia gauge, and actual behaviour from the OBD readout relating to the underlying temperature. It's not broken so don't spend out on trying to fix it!

My home temp is 20C, like the car. There is no doubt that different people feel the cold or heat more than others so accounts for variability. My wife would like it marginally warmer and I'd prefer it marginally cooler, so we compromise. Generally I'm in a t-shirt and she's in a jumper. Same in the car.

I aiming for 65° f and not intending to cry over energy use. No point in having an ev if you can't use it like you did with the ice. It's my aim to improve my life. I always dress for outside air temperature when going to work. i don't want to have to get dressed getting out of the car. I have noticed this Enyaq targets the heat at areas with someone sat in rather than the whole interior. which is clever.

New to climate control and haven't really learnt how to work it yet, but currently the passenger side is set to 19°C, driver's side 20°C. If anyone wants to copy and paste my ° symbols, you're most welcome.

I have always set my climate control to 21C. Its a comfortable temperature for us nearly all the time. Occasionally the wife 'feels cold' and her side is put up to 22/23 but I've trained her to use the heated seat now, so it happens less often

Could use this as a rough guide https://www.speakev.com/threads/interesting-vcds-parameter-number-of-charge-connections.135642/

When driving you can notice a Regen as the throttle response is a bit less sharp. Also revs will sit at 1000 if a Regen is running. So at junctions you might notice the revs don’t drop.

Scenic Comfort collected. Range showing 192 miles with 3/4 battery showing full. Tyre pressures set to my preference ie higher and we will see where the range settles down to. Dealer mention one of their fleet Megane etech has shown over 300 miles guessed range. As I mentioned I agreed a price much closer to £30k than £40K ie just over £400 a month on PCP. Image attached.... Good video. Well done Polestar 2 but it is a saloon rather than a SUV which most people seem to want. 322 miles at 70 mph and in rain. Whilst this long range version ie 92 kw h version has an RRP of £41k it can be had for much less than that. Q6, more than twice the price highlighted VAG Group issues, wish they had the Skoda Enyak on the test, either battery size. With proper set up and safer driving ie tyres pumped up a bit more and cruising a little slower, as the French do ie drive a little slower in the rain, say 65, they could have gone much further but then they would have gone even deeper into the night getting these cars to run out of charge.

What temp do you have the cars interior set to? I watch the various EV car tests or reviews and 'How far do they go vids'. The latest is like others. They set the interior temp to be at 21*oC and the car to drive in the ECO setting. I doubt that 21*oC of an interior setting is giving the best of efficiency in Cold weather or Hot weather, say an ambient down at maybe 6*oC or up at around 26*oC. No idea why the cars are not charged and driven as they start as a Default, what ever setting that gives as a Mode. Normal / Drive or what ever. .................. So for me in any vehicle on my own regardless of summer or winter 18*oC is about my max temp requested. If passengers want a higher setting i am usually feeling too hot. But then what ever shirt / jumper/ coat / jacket or what ever i am wearing when out of the car stays on when driving, unless it wet from pithing rain. If it is Winter i am dressed for the conditions, get in the car like that and am ready to get out without needing to put on clothes other than maybe a hat. ............. This winter testing explains better than some about the interior settings / choice.

If you find something from an EU seller I'm happy to have it sent to me and I can forward it on when I'm in the UK in mid October to *ahem* a nod's as good as a 😉

When I had Tesla came to change rear lights due to condensation in early 2023, they were driving old (pre facelift) modified Model S with tool rack where rear seat would be. Just like Cleevely EV's modified MG5. Depending on their availability, I might get them to fit new shock absorbers on my Leaf. It's failing..... 😞

a "Tesla Blivet"; a one off, based on a Tesla Roadster, presently in a lowish Earth orbit around 315 miles high.

He owns https://www.pandahub.com/blog/behind-the-garage-door-unveiling-elon-musks-ultimate-passion-for-cars

VW part number for the plugs was 04E 905 602 (NGK PKER7A8EGS) at the time there was no difference in price between VW branded or NGK Mark.

What engine ? Although isn't the 7 speed only the 1.2 petrol like mine ? That will be the DQ200 which has no service schedule

Usually 18C, unless the car has climate control with a lower actual temperature.

Clean the unbroken spring, and look for some dots of paint to establish the spring code. Buy 2 springs to that code, and Robert will be your father's male sibling.

If its a hot summer day mine is set to low, in winter mid 20s to high its on 21 at mo as its getting a tad cooler now .

Not sure if true or fake but quite funny either way......

It was i thought a simple question asked on what people choose their setting for the interior. Nothing to do with how far a liquid fuel car or an EV can go. ( I think increasing the temperature request in Summer so that the AC is not having to work hard might mean better efficiency with an ICE or EV. )

Thank you @spacelord this made a huge difference in the sound experience. 💪

All good advice, which I have followed less than religiously of late. Various encroaching disabilities have slowed me : I cannot easily get under a car now and deffo can't get back to the vertical without a struggle. As my mileage is pretty low and mostly local trips, ie under 15 miles urban roads, I have excused myself serious maintenance. Hence the hurried oil change before pounding Mways for 350 miles. Regretted ever since.

Fantastic. What a useful feature. This with the ability to stop the theft of vehicles with keyless entry. & Maybe they can introduce technology that alerts the owners / keepers that a Service Technician has been alerted to come change a timing belt in a timely manner now that the Service / Replacement schedules are being reduced

In which case its me who should apologise for not reading attentively.

That is good news, because mine is going in next week for the same thing - currently on 1804 and map stuck on 20.*.

HO!! You messin' Jimmi?

As T07 has said ,if its doing a regen the RPM @ idle is higher than normal. Another indication that a regen is required with a DSG box car is the reluctance to change up a gear, you may find that for Example DSG is selecting 3rd rather than the usual 4th . As for smell , if you interrupt a regen you will find the radiator fan running @ full speed when you wouldn't expect it & a smell of burning rubber, the smell in time becomes ever less noticeable . As for having the warning light come on ,once, just once I've had that happen. On the way to having a MOT in the early days of covid lockdown .this with approx. 8 years of having DPF fitted diesels .

Well, picked up Mini Countryman this afternoon - handover took best part of 2 hours and hardly scratched the surface of all the system toys and how to operate them. Why on earth don’t you get a printed Manual anymore? Okay a pdf file (over 300 pages) is okay but not for quick reference or bed time reading!! Only driven it home but drive was quiet and very comfortable, if a little sad after saying goodbye to Yeti. More details after I’ve driven it a bit and got my head around the software.

On the day of delivery, bit dirty from the journey (approximately 3.5 hour journey, delivered to me)

Hi, I've also a rear dashcam. Unfortunately, you can't remove the top trim without removing the bottom trim. The bottom trim is just clipped, whereas the the top trim has 2 screws (Torx 25, as far as I remember) at both ends, hidden by the bottom trim. The rest of the top trim is just clipped on top and on both sides. It doesn't take long to remove the bottom trim. You just have to pay attention to remove both lights and the open/close button before pulling hard to unclip it. 😉 But to clip both top and bottom trim back in place (especially bottom one), it's better to be helped by someone, otherwise it's a PITA. Both trims are quite flexible, thus if you're alone you can clip one side, try to clip the other side and first side then falls down. This can "play" a looong time with your nerves... 😤😉

..good luck with your new toy. I spent over 12 months trying to decide what to replace my Yeti with..(a tough act to follow). I was really happy with my 1.4 petrol, economy was OK, (40+mpg), performance was OK, (150bhp), and ohhhh so practical. I looked at and test drove lots of other cars, Seat, VW, Suzuki, and Toyota, (Yaris Cross...would have got one, but too long waiting list and my Yeti was strting to give me problems). ...ended up with a Self charging Niro. Very sceptical at first, but love the economy (70mpg), OK space, (not as practical as the Yeti), but very comfy and easy ro drive, (always wanted an auto), and the 7 year warranty helped!! (Must admit the Mini was never on my radar at the time??)

Remove the drain coc k completely, drain all the oil out, dont worry or confuse yourself about how much came out, your concern should be did all the oil come out, I shall assume you drained it on a level surface, if you are unsure add a little bit of fresh oil while the drain coc k is removed, it should dribble out within a couple of minutes. The refill to a little less than the specified capacity if its 3.5 litres then fill with 3 litres, wait a few minutes and check the dipstick, if all is well then it will be in the middle of the hatched area or a little less, you can then top up bit by bit to the correct level allowing time for the oil to drain down to the sump each time. If the dipstick level is implausible then investigate why before adding any more oil or running the engine/ Some other observations: The flexible pipes that come with the suction kits are coiled in manufacture and transport and will never become straight, as you push them down the twisty dipstick tube they curl up, you cannot feel when they hit the bottom and they either dont reach it or curl up wit the end sitting higher, each way you cannot drain the whole contents. I use copper brake and fuel pipes, or for my current vehicle which has an odd bore a copper hydraulic pipe, I have to manipulate and form it to get it all the way down and when I think it is there I pull it up and down tapping the bottom of the sup listening for the confirmation noise, then I drain until it makes the milkshake straw slurping noise. When I replace the filter I use the same rod to drain the bottom of the housing (mine is an inverted filter like most) poking it down the 2 galleries, I get an extra 0.5l out this way and usually end up refilling with the specified quantity although I do it by the dispstick readings as above. The dipstick when replaced should be pushed down firmly until you see and feel a positive click, if not then the level reading will be incorrect and you will add too much oil, it took me a couple of years before I realised. Finally only ever take notice of how much oil you have added after being sure that you have fully drained the sump disregard how much you "think" you have drained out, it is irrelevant, use the dipstick for getting the final precise level after confirming that its indication is plausible with regard to how much oil you have put in.

16" Alaris fitted with 205/55/16 Michelin cross climate tyres. Certainly not as aesthetically pleasing as the stock 18"s with Good Year tyres, but they definitely help smooth the ride over our pockmarked and scarred roads ! Despite the quite blocky pattern, the tyres are at least as quiet as the GY Eagle F1's if not a bit better, (but is apples to oranges considering the sidewall dfifference and summer to AS). Despite them being fresh and not scrubbed in, still gave a good deal of confidence in the damp and felt very sure footed.

Perhaps the something wrong is your judgement of level using the dipstick? You think you overfilled the vehicle, you do not say how much you siphoned out or how much you added so it was an unknown quantity. You subsequently sucked (not siphoned) out 4 litres and drained a further 0.5 litre from the drain plug which would be around the correct volume, I am assuming it was the sump and not transmission drain plug. You refilled with only 1.5 litres of oil which is far less than the required volume and would not show on the dipstick but you say the dipstick showed over-full, you did wipe it first before dipping? 1.5 litres would be just enough for oil to circulate and develop enough pressure for the low speed (under 2K rpm) oil pressure warning to not declench but once above 2K rpm the high speed oil pressure warning came on as it should. From all that you have said your engine contains 1.5 litres of oil and should be topped up to the correct level.

Nice, dry and not too hot. Perfect opertunity to get the car done... Exterior- ✅Rinsed ✅Snowfoamed ✅Rinsed ✅Washed ✅Fallout remover ✅Rinsed ✅Washed ✅Rinsed ✅Dried ✅Machine Polished ✅ Paint Sealant Treatment All redone in time for the impending Scottish, never ending winter... Interior- ✅Vacuumed ✅Rubber mats washed ✅Cleaned ✅Glass cleaned ✅Fresh air freshener

Now guess why "Carefree" is on my ignore list.

Kia EV3 road tests coming through...

My Octavia 3/G-Tec/DSC/year 2020 has modes Eco Comfort Normal Sport Those can be selected under Driver Assistance menu. So I should have DCC? But I don't have Individual setting. Nor do I see any information about selected mode in infotainment or dash display. Is there something I have missed? However, I do notice the change in steering assistance between Sport and other modes.