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Although I have had my Karoq for 9 months, I have only had this engine cutting out problem on three occasions. The first two happened while I was talking to others in the car and the engine cut out as I was slowing down for a roundabout, but I dismissed it as possible driver error whilst being distracted. But then it happened a couple of days ago I was on my own approaching a give way at a T-junction. I had my foot depressing the foot pedal selecting second such that I could do a rolling give-way as I could see it was clear in advance of reaching the junction, (with Stop-Start disabled). But on pressing the accelerator I realised that the engine had cut-out. A message on the dash confirmed I should manually start the engine with the start button. This engine fired up immediately and I was able to continue my journey. I now realise that this was the same problem that had manifested itself before. On mentioning it to another family member, she admitted that she too had experienced this on one occasion when she borrowed the car. This is a problem that I consider is potentially dangerous as the possibility of an accident is evident. The fact that Skoda has not recognised this as a problem common to the 1.5 Tsi manual given all the previous posts on this same issue, has resulted in me losing confidence in the car and in Skoda as a caring manufacturer.

Because 'Electricity of France'), commonly known as EDF, is a French multinational electric utility company owned by the government of France. Our Govt sold everything off and passed Billing on to Shareholders and Business for profits.

Check your PM

What position have you got the controls at ? (from bottom to top) first position is off, the second is on(but intermittent(and of course won't wipe when stopped) the next one up is constant, then the next it higher speed, and you also if you flick it down once it will just do a couple of wipes. So from rest one up and it will wipe when driving and will get faster the faster the rain comes down

At 3000miles a year, let me assume it's not a lot of short commutes and there are a few longer trips in there. (Like me...) Therefore, make those miles count and enjoy it with a 272/280. Fuel cost different insignificant in the grand scheme of things

This post may be 12 years old, but credit where credit is due it’s just helped me change the resistor on my Scout. Thank you very much! next time I think I need thinner more bendy wrists…

This is a long shot perhaps, but all other options so far have drawn a blank, if anyone can help it would be much appreciated. Briefly I am trying to make a paintwork warranty claim on my Sep 2023 Karoq, and I need to contact the supplying dealer Skoda Bentley ECO Car Scheme, has anyone ever heard of this dealer, know where they are based or have any contact information. I bought my Karoq in April 2024, a Skoda Approved Used car, from a Skoda dealer in Birmingham. My local Skoda approved bodyshop has produced a 30 page report on the defective paintwork and considers it a valid claim. The local Skoda dealer in Milton Keynes says its not a manufacturing defect and it should have been resolved by the supplying dealer during PDI, they have referred me to Skoda UK Customer Care . The Bodyshop agrees its not a manufacturing defect, and I don't dispute that, but the fact remains the paintwork is not right, it has been affected by environmental pollution while stored prior to original sale, hence why it should have been rectified at PDI by the supplying dealer. Skoda UK Customer Services have provided me with the name Skoda Bentley ECO Car Scheme as the dealer who performed the PDI but re unable to provide anymore information other than it was a Motability Scheme. Having contacted Motability, who have no record of a Karoq with my registration I'm not sure this is correct. From Google searches ECO Scheme would appear to mean Employee Car Ownership Scheme which seems to be a VAG scheme for employees to have a car for 6 months. With a Sept 23 registration and being a used car on a dealers forecourt in April that seems to look like a Skoda employee lease car, especially as the Birmingham dealer told me it was previously a Skoda Management lease car.

I doubt that it has drop links ,they are for cars with independent suspension .IE rollbar & wishbones your octy has that on the front with a beam suspension on the rear. VRs & scout have independent rear suspension. PS that said I'm not sure that the front suspension has drop links .It's been a while.

Go the Third Way, go with Greg from Octopus. Just need to decouple pricing from gas market prices which we should do next year as renewable not only surpass gas usage but dwarf it.

Only mugs are paying lots for lecky. The big problem is people using lecky at peak times and if you choose to have a single rate tariff you are going to get stung as the supplier assuming the worst and you are using lecky at worst times ie tea time and morning around 8 am. Octopus is happy to sell their customer lecky at about one third price for 5 or 6 hours and only charge about a 5% premium for lecky in the day time 18 or 18 hours. Most of us on GO and Intelligent Go use most of our lecky during the cheap time so our average rate is working out less than 15p a kwh, for some not much over 10p per kwh. Fail to plan then plan to fail.

here's the problem with that theory. Filling up before setting off......I don't have a diesel pump at home so I need to add in that time to go and fill up. The journey took 22 minutes longer than if I had taken the EV. It's just as simple as that. The Skoda I could fill up before leaving home, the diesel VW I cannot.

Who wants to convert 02xx, 03xx to 04xx, write me.

Moisture was just condensation in the end. And everything else boiled down to... failed battery cell. It was only capable of 4.6 volts. Battery replaced and now good as new.

Wind now exceeds gas. Report from National Grid NESO. The UK does not have to be self sufficient as it makes economic sense to buy electricity cheap from Denmark and Norway and nuclear from France. Great news coal now dead from this month as the dirtiest of fuel. Attached is the report. September out in next day or so. How was our electricity generated? (August 2024 report Gas 16.8% Wind 31.8% Nuclear 18.2% Biomass 7.1% Coal 0.2% Solar 8% Imports 14.4% Hydro 2% Storage 1.5% 739636_NESO_MonthlyElectricityReport_August_2024.pdf

Popped a protective screen cover on the Columbus and no bubbles or dirt. 😃 I do clean it a lot because the finger prints drive me mad, so this'll get scratched up from all the cleaning instead of the main unit (I did initially see a dirt piece under it so lifted it up, dirt dabbed with supplied sticky thing and it went back down clean)

So pressures set cold and checked again cold were OK, but. Before having anyone checks it is best that you do. When the TPMS comes on stop ASAP / when safe and carefully feel the Wheel Centre for heat. Check the Tyre Pressure while hot, and see if one is particularly high. A binding brake or a bearing heating up the hub / wheel / air in tyre and expanding the tyre. The TPMS does not just spot a reduced tyre circumference it can also cause an alert because the tyre has expanded much more. PS Next 100 miles Recalibration is TOTAL BS from whoever. You can put on a Spare Tyre / Wheel with any pressure and a slightly different circumference and reset the TPMS and within a mile a mile or 3 it should throw no warning. Go get a new tyre or repair, reset the TPMS and again after running straight & going around a few corners again reset.

You don't have need for left/right dipping these days as there is no "kick up on the lights as they used to. So with the matrix lights if cuts out the light that could dazzle someone as needed

Will do. I’m currently waiting to hear back from a great and totally legit surgeon who’s offering Turkey wrists. Just need to drive to Istanbul, a short 1 day and 11 hour drive.

The Adblue is not mixed with anything. It is sprayed directly into the exhaust before the catalytic converter. Citroen and Peugeot used to use EOLYS fluid to make regeneration of the DPF happen at a lower temperature. This fluid is injected into the fuel tank and is transferred along with the fuel to the engine.

@Graham Butcher Sorry, what i meant was i would not have touched it with your barge pole. It was clogging the DPF, had started sipping AdBlue and would be a liability and i had not the money to buy it, but i knew a trader that would have given me £500 finders fee if Motability had sold it to me for what i offered. My offer was the right book price and Arnold Clark paid pretty much what i offered. I had already bought another car as i was refused PIP and was appealing and had 6 weeks to return the car if PIP was not awarded. Lots and lots lost DLA or PIP and had to return cars. This 100,000 extra customers in 12 months is maybe people encouraged to apply for PIP before too old to be awarded, and the change of qualifying with mental health or other disabilities, then people with Long Covid getting PIP Mobility component.

Likewise when I retired, thats why I brought my car rather that buying another from a dealer etc, I knew its entire history, like yours immaculate, shame I didn't know its future through

Screen Shot shows the issue with AI and Google now. Wrong info often comes up first.

They just changed that this year or last and i only read it this year. They have asked too much in the past and not accepted my offer and then they got less from the car going to auction. It is all part of the UK Economy and Car Trade. The Alhambra i had was over £32,000 RRP / Invoice price. The day i collected it and put in the PIN number there was £24,200 paid by Motability for the car. I had paid £800 advance payment. £400 was advance and £400 my options. Dark Factory Tints, hide what was in as used as a bike carrier. Arnold Clark bought it and struggled to sell it and had to re MOT twice as Covid came and went and came and sales fell through. In the end i could have bought it as Customer going to Arnold Clark and bought it for £5,000 less than i offered Motability. It would have had the new Discs & Pads and Wipers that it needed at the MOT but it never got. (The problem really was i knew how it was driven for 3 years and Never Raced or Rallied, well not offroad. Immaculate, but abused.) I could have chosen the Top Model with everything, Leather, Electric Doors, 2.0 TDI 184 ps DSG, 18" wheels etc and paid just £600 Advance Paument. I wanted the basic car, 16" wheels, not leather, not auto headlights, no roof rails or chrome. The Lighter car that would go furthest on less fuel & i could fit good winter tyres to. Not the False Official MPG figures SEAT gave.

That's why I said about the Fabia Mk 4's display "...this should satisfy the UK's (slightly ambiguous) speedometer-related importing requirements". A LHD Fabia's chronometric display with a KM/H-only speedometer can show the car's speed in KM/H and (by operating a 'switch') simultaneously show a digital MPH equivalent between the speedometer and rev-counter. Obviously this not 'permanent', but it should meet the importing requirements. Certainly, where imported LHD motorhomes with this type of dual-speed-readout arrangement have been concerned, there has been no need to swap the complete display just to get a combined MPH and KM/H chronometric speedometer. Even if a Fabia has a Virtual Cockpit that allows the speedometer's display to be easily swapped between KM/H and MPH, the swap will not be 'permanent' in the strictest sense of that word. This link may be of interest https://www.aronaforums.co.uk/threads/importing-car-into-uk.1209/ I would be very careful if the UK's VCA (Vehicle Certification Agency) is to be contacted for advice about the importing process. I've dealt with the VCA in the past about importing and been happy with their response - but I'm VERY careful with what I ask and how I word an enquiry. Some people importing LHD motorhomes have had questionable advice from the VCA that, when challenged, resulted in long delays and (eventually) the advice proved to have been wrong.

Few odd jobs: Got a nasty leak in front passenger footwell, narrowed it down to a missing grommet in the cabin air filter area: I found a suitable grommet, added some dirko sealant just to be sure and plugged the hole. The damage has already been done though, I'll have to strip the interior and replace the carpet and sound proofing: Next thing was a super rusty PS hose: Autodoc came to the rescue with an affordable febi part, i had to source the 4x copper washers separately though: Rear wiper wasn't spraying, I remembered back in 2018 my first octavia had the same fault and the union behind the boot liner roughly in the cd changer area has come apart. I've plugged it back in and put a self adhesive heatshrink over it so it won't happen again: Oil cap did't feel tight and was slowly leaking, so i replaced the seal on it as well: Fuel cap has also seen better days so it was replaced with a TPS part: Same for the antenna: Arm rest latch as also been fixed with a cheap ebay parts: The car came with 2 key fobs. both not working remotely. First one was an easy fix, just replacement of the battery, the second one was not. It was missing the battery terminal so i bought a 'blank' on ebay and replaced it, its still not working.. not sure what im going to do about it. Some more stuff from TPS, because autodoc is taking a while to deliver my timing belt stuff.... 2x front badges 2x air filter screws 1x fuel filler cap (seen in earlier pic) Replacing the badges was very satisfying:

Hi QuinFin, I bet you are excited! I am too, I pick up mine here in the UK on Tuesday afternoon. In the general Superb Mk4 forum there are a lot of posts regarding a major software problem that won't be fixed untill Wk47. I think it involves much of the ADAS system (Lane keeping assistant, Traffic signal recognition assistant etc etc) not working with dashboard error icons showing the full extent. The car is still driveable but without these assistants. Not trying to alarm you but you need to be aware. I am hopefull we'll both be fine? Post back when you have the car with how it is. I will do the same. Good luck!

Sounds like a plan. But heads up, what can sound like rattling bonnet can be things in the immediate area vibrating through. Check where the air intake pipe snaps onto the slam panel plastic part - my clips wore here and I got a really bad rattling at idle and low revs. Easy to fix, hard to find.

Good choice that changing from 68Ah to 70Ah. I did it too. 10 years old is a good performance though! But... Maybe your Mk3 has the chance to "sleep" in a garage?... Back to your question: changing the serial number via VCDS is only a way to warn the battery management system that it has been replaced. A more important point, is to change the autonomy parameter and set it to 70 Ah instead of the original 68 Ah, otherwise it won't take into account that your new battery has a larger autonomy and the battery management system may consider it's fully loaded, whereas it is not. These 2 mods are only a 10-minute job via VCDS.

@Winston_Woof Acknowledge i know what you get from Motability because i have had 13 lease cars from them. I just wondered why you think me buying the next car would mean that i would have 3 named drivers on the car i own. Customers not only can lease a new car, just now and when i changed i got £750 to change my car. & you get a 'Good Condition payment', We also got that early during Covid to help us. And 3 payments of £50 because insurance claims were low during 'Lock Down'. Back years ago you were only allowed 12,000 miles a year with a Motability car before paying per mile over that. Just using a car to work was over 12,000 miles a year and i always run other cars. Also to keep up NCB,s back then you had to have insurance running for 3 years or you lost it. The Dealers used to be able to Buy back cars before they all had to go to BCA. We used to be able to buy them, or ask how much to, up until last year. *We used to be able to borrow for 4 years to buy a Used car or 5 years for a new car at a low interest.* I did that twice. The Last car i bought with a Loan from Motability had the last 12 months of payments from me stopped and they gave me the V5 and i saved on paying that back. This was as they Reorganised Motability Finance and the Banks. Lots of stuff stopped or changed when the Government allowed the 6 big banks to get hold of the Motability Funds that were held. Bank crash 2008. Then it went from being difficult to return a car early, and strict rules to a very Commercial Charity and turning cars over and over, people getting high value cars. Then a Cap of £26,000 was introduced and that was a joke as many adapted cars were costing many times more and it was back to a free for all. There has always been cheating, family or friends getting cars and the disabled person never in them other than maybe hand over day. Cars hired out, used as taxis etc etc. Cars CLOCKED. In the first years of Motability the cars went to Auction in London & Preston and you could get a list of registration numbers and make offers or bids sight unseen. All cars got new tyres before being sold. You can extend your lease if the cars mileage is low at 3 years old and during Covid and the Car / Chip shortage we were encouraged to extend the lease, or might have to because the new car you wanted would be delayed. The reason i am saying i will buy a car in 2 years is i want a 2023 MINI from before the new ones. The £35,500 RRP Electric one i have which is 15 months old is could be replaced by a one bought today in the same spec for under £20,000 cash money or on the never never. So if i wanted the car i have the Dealer has to buy it and then sell it to me. But in 2026 if i want one 3 years old i would not buy from a MINI Approved Dealer. I will buy from BCA and the car i have now or one the same with every option. Or i will buy a 2023 5 door Mini Automatic with a 1.5 or 2.0 petrol engine, again from Auction or from the trade, likely not at a Main Dealership. Que sera sera, things happen but at the moment that is my plan unless something changes. As far as the past goes i know every penny i have spent on my own vehicles bought since i was 15 years old.

Answering my own questions after installing 1941 (not 1969 at this stage) I connected the battery charger while updating with no ill effect. It may or may not help but it makes me feel better. I performed the update without pushing on the ignition switch at all. Just turn on the unit at the screen. It worked fine. My NZ spec car came with 1900 firmware and it actually says VW in the name not SK. But the firmware downloaded here worked just fine. Voice control for climate control finally works. Not very well but at least it is available, unlike before. That was the main motivation for the update as 1900 had been pretty stable otherwise. I formatted the USB as ExFat on a windows PC just to be sure. The instruction for the map update specifically said it has to be ExFAT, so I thought there is no point trying different format. I actually tried map update before the 1941 update but it simply would not work no matter what I tried. I will try again now that I am on 1941.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motability#How_it_works Acknowledged you may not choose/require some of the options

I managed to trace it back to a mis-inserted fuse. When I originally checked the fuse it was out in the wild, with rain wind, and fuse box being on the offside, meant I was in danger from oncoming traffic and rain getting on the electrics, so I took the fuse out and checked it inside the car then got out to put it back in the fuse box. I thought I'd put in the right place, but as a double check I used a count-back from the populated end of the fuses, shown on the card clipped to the fuse box cover panel. When I decided to check the circuitry back to the ECU, I figured the fuse box was an easy point to eliminate. And when I removed the cover I had a JDLR moment (just doesn't look right), so I did the count back again but this time spotted and empty fuse space right in the hinge corner where it's difficult to see. Also the row of fuses above doesn't line up to the card diagram. So my original positioning with a single space form the next fuse was correct. As soon as I turned the ignition key, I could hear the pump run, and saw the voltage drop on the accessory socket, so I didn't bother firing it up, until I had enough time to run it up to working temperature, and make sure there were no more surprises. I've now marked on the card where the fuses are actually present. I've also made a blow-up and mirror image of the fuse box, from the tiny handbook pic, which is only 36mm high, too tiny to see clearly, and a mirror image of reality. Essentially the manual pic and card, are just the RH drive car images, just chucked in regardless. Wonder if the LH drive Audi owners manual is similarly slipshod (if they do a model with that fuse box position)? I recommend owners with this fuse box to mark the card *as populated* and take a pic of the box vs the roadside alternative faff. 1) card as suppled. 2) card now marked where populated. 3 actual fuse box.

As someone who has driven both I felt the 190 underwhelming, but I had come from a 220 Octavia VRS. I feel the 272/280 version has a more obvious difference in driving modes with Sport being pretty gutsy and probably more than you will ever need. Mileage doesnt bother me much either, I do 5k a year. I wouldnt worry about the engines, these EA888s are very solid and in this form is de-tuned compared to something like a Golf R (306hp) The Haldex should be fine as long as maintained properly. If warmed up and serviced regularly you shouldnt see any issues.

The problem with surveys is much the same problem with scientific reports being commissioned by the body that is seeking to introduce something, such as a low emission zone, for example, that report/survey is going to be biased towards the body that is paying the piper.

Drivers collection part 2

It is not a case of just changing out a window switch. Ive carried it out as seen here: You need to run a few new wires from the front door module to the switch pack. You then need new rear door modules and new rear door locks and new wiring to go between them. The door modules need the correct datasets and coding adding to them also.

Found it, skoda-parts.com. Ordered some the other day and should be coming next Tuesday. The rattle has got worse, it makes the same sound duff droplinks do over bumps and when sat idle it buzzes through the bonnet. Thinking about taking the whole grille assmebly off and sticking some rubber tape between where the grille sits and bolts onto the actual bonnet, maybe some rubber sealant in the small gap between the two too, just something to stop this god awful rattle without having to resort to a new bonnet.

In March 2020, I had a MK2 CR170 and I knew it wasn’t going to be ULEZ compliant and living in the zone, it had to go. Given the low annual mileage I was now covering, a petrol was the obvious answer. I drove a couple of 1.4 DSG Superbs and found them underwhelming. But when I saw the 280 advertised, saw the very high spec and then actually drove it, it was the obvious choice and I have not regretted it; it’s best car I’ve ever owned. Yes, it does only give around 25mpg on my very short daily commute but I’ve got 40+ on a decent run and yes, servicing costs are higher with the 4X4 system but it’s not insane.

@celli well i just care, before even i had a car i knew all info about whats working or not from my dealer. Im also in the some czechs social groups and there are some infos about whats going on. yesterday when i get a car i also ask my dealer about this problem with assistents. He told me it should come hopefully at 47week this year and also if this problem occure to me just pick a phone and call them for now there is just a fix with reseting software and new setup. but at czech forum there are two fixes 30minutes unplug your battery or unplug your fuse number 22 it should reset and it also works.

Same here! First time it happened was with trailer... i dont know if there was connection. Overheated camera module... something wrong in the fan of the camera module. Fan stop spinning (unknown reason) -> overheat -> shutdown. Remove rear mirror and covers. If the fan is hot, remove the module and remove plug. Wait module to cool down and reassemble. tech skills 8/10 needed. Allso P2422 coming and going...

Whatever the automatic gearbox in place I always put it in neutral if I'm stopped for any length of time. In D the car is still pulling forward and putting pressure on components. I guess arguably changing from D to N also wears components but you have choose one way or another. But I'e never tried shifting whilst moving. I've never had an issue with braking to stop with an auto.

indeed..it was the the marten. It bit through the cables

You or previous owner were lucky that the wire from the battery did not cause a fire. I doubt that the ECU has failed. More likely the unfused cable had been bundled with other cables (such as in the A pillar) and caused further damage to those cables. A "new" ecu may have to be programmed with any options that you had such as beeps on door locking/unlocking or rear wiper active when in reverse gear and it is raining. Either way I suggest you go to an auto electrician with a good reputation. To answer your question, that can be done by Skoda or an auto electrician with the right equipment.

In case if AC is not cooling air (but rest works), forum members are already helping with ideas... In case, if blower is not working, that's how it was on my 11/2016 Octy (Climatronic with Valeo items; there's version with Denso items too): cabin blower turned off from time to time, no reaction to speed change, absurd reaction to speed change, sometimes blower was loud. Same was with AC on or off, same in Auto or Manual mode. And again- everything started to work fine, but problems came back after time. Replaced blower and it sorted problems. I took cheapest Thermotec blower (blower control module was included in scope) and for 1 year it still works ok. Replacement can take ~10min (for advanced hands) and minimum-to-no tools are required. Cause of problem is hiding in weak construction of brushes. At least, for Valeo blower it's for sure.

I am in Aus and i emailed the AU office and they are just like talk to your dealer. 😕 and yes i think we need more people with My21 reporting the issue so a TPi can be created. i only got my audio issue fixed rectly after complaing about it for 3 years.

Just to round this off in case anyone with a similar issue in the future finds this thread, it was indeed the cambelt tensioner. New belt kit sorted it and it now runs perfectly again so all of the rattle sound was from the tensioner itself or the loose belt. I also got the exhaust pulley changed just to be safe, although it didn't appear to be damaged. Not very impressed that I came so close to a destroyed engine on a 6 year old car with only 54,000 miles that's never missed a service in its life but I guess I was unlucky (or lucky depending on how you look at it).

So the reason for this is your vehicle is on the crossover year so there are 2 options basically...

On such a critical application as this engine I'd be tempted to pay the extra fiver or whatever for genuine from dealership.

I bloody love 💕 you. I didn’t even need WD40.

Same problem for me - 2012 Superb Estate Elegance Petrol 4x4. Thanks to these posts I had the motor out, freed up with some WD40 and back here writing this post 10 mins later. Mine was just a bit stiff (too little use during Corona lockdown) and freed easily. I didn’t even remove the plug so was able to ascertain it worked ok before re-installing. A word of caution, make sure the fan assembly is properly seated when fitting it back in. Mine was slightly ‘cross threaded’ the first time I put it in and didn’t work (presumably the fan itself has very little clearance so was jamming). Keep up the good work everyone - this is a great resource!