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It makes perfect sense to import electricity, even at 16p per kwh, at peak times, we have done this with France for years and now we have interconnectors with Denmark and Norway which gives the UK the option of using relatively cheap imported power rather than firing up a hydrocarbon station for a couple of hours and paying way more than 16p a kwh. UK acts a bridge to Ireland, South and North. Wonder if we charge a handling charge.

I'm on my second 272 Superb, so as you can tell, I really like them. I came to them from a Mk3 VRS 220 and the Superb doesn't feel much faster at times, especially as the gearbox seems to be more tuned for economy so likes to change to the highest gear as soon as possible under a part throttle. Having said that, if you put the gearbox in sports mode and put your foot down (or give it some welly coming out of a junction), the Superb is in a different league! I loved my Octavia but always hankered after more power and 4x4 but you knew VW wouldn't let Skoda have it for the Octavia as it would have stolen too many Golf R customers. I love the Superb for it's sleeper status too. There is very little to show it's a really quick car and that suit me down to the ground. I've been quite lucky as (touch wood) I've never had any issues with either car over 5 years of motoring. I've keep them fully serviced and ensured that Haldax and DSG were serviced on time (though I believe both have the DQ381 which now seems to be on 80,000 mile service intervals though I had mine serviced at the 4 year point as preventative maintenance). I do prefer my facelift version for the LED headlights and the digital dash. There seem to be numerous other small changes which add to the car which I keep noticing (lights in the door pockets etc) which I don't recall seeing on my pre-facelift. But, both cars have served me incredibly well as they have everything I've wanted - speed, comfort, style, space. You'll love yours too, no doubt,

I think the points raised by Phill Moorhouse is that the last few ruling parties have been greenwashing the subject and doing their best to convince everyone that they were addressing the issues but in fact were doing nothing other than window dressing as it was earlier governments formed by their own party that created the situation where we own diddly squat and thus are no longer in control of our own destiny, we handed that over the overseas investors. Or to coin a phrase, so much for taking back control 😆

The point I think @Ootohere was making is that they have the surplus energy and that we are relying on them having it rather than creating our own. If we generate our own, than we should be able to generate it at far lower price than what we can buy it at and thus have the means to lower our energy bills. The interconnectors should really be there more for emergency use when we or they have problems that we can then help each out from time to time.

You're right about the VAT angle, for a start, and that was one of the many lies we all sold by politicians in the great should we or shouldn't we referendum back in 2016. We were told that if we did, then they would be able to cut or remove VAT on energy, cheaper food, shoes, cloths etc, in the end we did but we never got any of those promises, in fact, we got the complete opposite, (we have been promised and told so much over the years, only to discover later on they had it all wrong, or they never delivered what they promised), so often we are sold down the river by them. Public trust in them is at a all time low and they need to build public trust again. We are now subsidising energy prices etc for other countries as all of our utilities are no longer owned by British companies or people and great amounts of wealth is leaving our shores, when it used to be captive here and used here for the countries benefit. There is no reason to ever expect to see prices fall to the 25p per kwh that hope will be realised by Dogger Bank being switching on to the grid, we no longer have control of our natural resources and the regulators are powerless puppets. The only way we can get our energy prices to parity with our once closest neighbours is to take back full control by bringing them back into state ownership, just increasing the amount of green energy production is not going to do it, it will only generate more profits for the foreign owners and shareholders alike.

Can we stop repeating time after time the under 3 pence a mile to run an EV or less with home or work charging, free charging, having your employer paying for the charging, getting 20% VAT back from public charging etc. That might be half of Electric Cars in the UK, it might be more or less than half bit no way does it apply to everyone. over 50 pence a kWh public charging is getting expensive, and then up to 89 pence is just ridiculous. The Public Charging suppliers need to cover costs, get back from their investments and make profits clearly. The 20% VAT on public charging is crazy and especially while Off Peak home charging can be 6.9 pence a kWh including 5% VAT. New Offshore Wind generating electricity is happening, it is not all connected to the National Grid. It will be years before lots of the Wind Farms are connected to the grid. Years before the new Transmission comes from Orkney & Sheland to the Scottish Mainland then down the East coast & to England. Or right down Scotland from Kintore to England. While loads of excess electricity can be produced in Scotland the population can not even benefit from these days and nights of plenty. THEY, prefer to pay the Owners of the Wind Farms to not generate electricity. http://bbc.co.uk/news/articles/cv2ge5rxjzxo

Moisture was just condensation in the end. And everything else boiled down to... failed battery cell. It was only capable of 4.6 volts. Battery replaced and now good as new.

The change had nothing to do with the DAB issue I hasten to add. I had six very good years with the Karoq and the DAB issue was the only problem in over 50K miles. Hopefully the Enyaq will be just as good

Mot passed the other week and just been on a nice 400mile round trip all on one tank of fuel, quite decent for a big car.

Ahh, I am just on Octopus Go, OG. I note my smart meter does not report the full 5 hours ie still stuck on the 4 hours of cheap lecky. Still getting use to new EV ie Scenic charging as the car manages the process more as you tell it when you want the car ready and to what level you want the car charged ie80, 85, 90, 95 oil 100% and it also get the car up to pre-programmed temp to save power used during the journey and therefore extend range. Just got that seg at 16c. I think ICE Rolls Royce have this. Amazing that most ICE car drivers have to suffer for minutes to get there cars up to a pleasant temperature where most EVs seem to have pre conditioning for cabin temp, included the heated seats, before you set off. No need for an ice scrapper.

Yes it stopped at 2017 I think. In that case, just aim for a 272/280. You will not regret it. We should all own a sleeper car (a warm one in this case ) once in our lives.

You're quite the angry man aren't you? Do you just like arguing? Filling up a fossil car takes time whatever way you cut it. I own both and the difference is that with my ev I plug in and it takes a couple of seconds. I can then do whatever else it is I need to do. When I fill up my diesel I need to stand there holding on to the lever. I had to do it yesterday with my son's fabia too. We queued for 10 minutes to get filled up.

Only having 12 at the battery isn't ideal, but shouldn't stop it lighting up. Is it locking and unlocking from the remote? Simple stuff first, always - check the battery connections and grounds, charge the battery, check the maxi fuses closely for damage, check all other fuses. Turn the key and give the top of the dashboard above the clocks a bang. Try the spare key.

Always best to do the test before worrying about what the results may mean. If one cylinder has lower compression than the others, that may explain why it's misfiring sometimes.

It sounds as though something may be arcing slightly which can develop into a fire very easily. Strongly recommend you either investigate yourself or get it checked. We lost a Peugeot 406 to a silent short behind the dash.

Do a compression test.

Hydrate - 80 is excellent. I've used it for years - it works and you can use as a primer as it dries hard and can be sanded down ready for paint. Just used it on my Yeti, drivers door where the road grit runs down the seal and rubs the paint away. Nice and clean now in new paint, covered by a small patch of clear helicopter tape ready for the winter.

Looks like the entire drive can-bus is down... Unlikely to be that many fuses. You could disconnect all the modules on the drive can-bus to see if it's a module.. Otherwise, it could be the can-gateway or possibly the wiring to it from the drive can-bus. At least that's my first guess 🤔

@flynndog It isn't the instrument cluster. Looking at the scan:- Address 17: Instruments (J285) Labels:| 5K0-920-xxx-17.clb-SRI1 Part No SW: 1Z0 920 943 D HW: 1Z0 920 943 D Component: KOMBI H20 0106 Serial number: 00000000000000 Coding: 720D00 Shop #: WSC 73430 031 12345 ASAM Dataset: EV_Kombi_UDS_VDD_RM09 A04040 ROD: EV_Kombi_UDS_VDD_RM09_004_SK35.rod VCID: 3A2D25542CD3487A517-806E No fault code found. It's one of the few components not indicating a fault.

I've seen @flynndog today and completed a VCDS scan. The scan has been posted in the diagnostics sub forum here:- https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/527075-vcds-scan-whats-the-diagnosis/ Personally, I am not proficient enough with VCDS to be certain of any diagnosis. Hopefully, someone better than me can draw a conclusion. Clearly, it's not just some damp LED's. Kev.

@lol-lol we have been through this for years now. Scotland and Norway have had power sharing plans for decades. 20 years late with the Sub Sea down the East coast and to Drax. The Sub Sea Connections were to export extra capacity from Norway was called for for decades. But it was not one way, export from Scotland to Norway to go south in Continental Europe since England somehow preferred getting energy from there. Orkney and Shetland wind generated to Norway, far closer than to England. The Hydro projects were just spoiled by Westminster.

@lol-lolIs it @ 16 pence though? The reason not to import from Scotland is because the contracts exist with overseas. *** You / Me and Patrick McGee are paying for that HydroCarbon power to be fired up, as we did with Coal, and we do with Diesel Farms because of the fear in parts of England, and the Hydro & Wind Generation.*** Long story short is England has no Energy Security. The French Nuclear being generated in Scotland at the 1 nuclear plant left will stop in a year or 2. England really does pretty good with overnight cheap tariffs for a country importing electric and a decade away from the chance of generating enough.

Thank you nta16, yes it seems the overall advice from everyone so far is to drive around and do partial refills and see how it goes. Thank you all so far,I will keep you all updated.

Follow the wiring, as you've said mk 5platform cars usually have an access under the rear seat, my Touran required the whole carpet to be peeled back.

Where did he drain the fuel from? Engine bay, underneath, or via the cars interior? I'd imagine if the senders not been taken out and damaged, it will sort itself out after a couple of full tanks of fuel.

Real World rather than Dream World.

Hello and welcome JESJRA Well it's certainly possible. I seem to recall @ApertureS fitting one (amongst a phenomenal amount of other goodies) in this somewhat epic thread: Out of interest, I was looking for a Superb earlier this year, and was quite surprised at how many didn't have reversing cameras. Gaz PS: Our search facility works quite well:

Disconnect the battery for half an hour see if that helps. But the above are also valid points in those posts

^ ^ I have always run on Dunlop Sport 01's, the car came on them, but at the last change I was offered 225x55x17's, they were cheaper than the 50 profiles, I have never had any qualms about them, I think French roads are maintained to a higher standard than in the UK. When I used to return to the UK over the winter period I always changed to winters, but now here permanently with little or no snow I haven't changed for several years! I think the 55's are a more commonly used size than the 50's

@Bete Noir I saw this thread with delay, bravo, God bless your hands !

Same button but keep pressing it for a few seconds. You’ll see the Siri logo pop up on your ICE screen. Alternatively, just use your voice as you would if you weren’t in the car.

SKODA SUPERB HATCH, 1.5 E TEC SEL DSG

If it happened immediately after changing the battery and it appears to affect systems in different circuits i would check the Earthing points around the battery.

I suspect their are several factors that are not presented in the video. I do generally agree with his main point that the UK could have done more to get offshore wind farm turbines but then technology has been accelerating quickly with these much larger turbines with lower per unit generated costs and it's great there is huge numbers of new turbines coming online. Just comparing headline unit rates m, if that is what I suspect has been done, is not really a fair comparison. As I said many uk users do not pay the single unit price but are on multilayered tariffs. Also was the hundreds of pounds credited considered in what actually paid. I think I did not pay more than £2k in any year and I work from home mostly, home is a 4 bedroom detached house and I am charging an EV doing thousands of miles a year using that home electricity. Thankfully the Con party had a bit of heart to do tge subsidies. Government could have done some things differently. Reduce the VAT a few percent. The worst effect of the pricing doubling or so was on those on low money. As with the Winter Fuel Allowance the energy credit was something I did not need and I money on energy saving items such a foldable solar panels and home batteries which give me residence and work with my dual rate tariff. UK is increasingly becoming more resilient as more North Sea wind farms, like the new stages of Dogger Bank come online so hopefully 25p per kwh is the worst we will see in the future.

It is just a commercial reality. Like wanting a flight at a busy time rather than a quiet time. Octopus are only offering cheap power at those quite hours as there is a surplus of power and they can sell it to you at a cheap price and still make a profit. If you want lecky at busy times you have to pay the 25p a kwh there is on the homogenous daily rate or the very slightly loaded rate tge ys dual rate users pay. We are adapting to the variable price that occur the day and are handsomely rewarded for working with the energy supplier. Did not even have to prove I had an EV, or two. Octopus do similar facilities for Heat Pump uses, tri-rate i think on their Cosy rate, share £100 with my brother moving him to that tariff. Happy days, nights and monthly bills.

I've rarely had to drive in rain with this car, but had noticed the same thing. My wipers have been set to Auto from new, so thanks for clearing that up!

On the powerful Superb MK3 4x4 280HP, 225/55R17 on 7Jx17 ET40 rims would probably make more sense than 215/60R17.

I understand the problem was found to be Is that correct?

You can also use the MAP link here to see local users, and then use private message to contact members.

Popped a protective screen cover on the Columbus and no bubbles or dirt. 😃 I do clean it a lot because the finger prints drive me mad, so this'll get scratched up from all the cleaning instead of the main unit (I did initially see a dirt piece under it so lifted it up, dirt dabbed with supplied sticky thing and it went back down clean)

Well, i do not think that there is major difference from your car and slightly newer. So worth checking out this https://youtu.be/wZpPD68wG4M?si=QMOZ_i-1SZuaklCA

At 3000miles a year, let me assume it's not a lot of short commutes and there are a few longer trips in there. (Like me...) Therefore, make those miles count and enjoy it with a 272/280. Fuel cost different insignificant in the grand scheme of things

The 1.4 auto doesn't have an air intake pipe that attaches to the slam panel, it gets its fresh air through a hole in the side of the engine cover, which also acts as the air filter housing. Threw me off at first but I learned quickly all about it when I was diagnosing another issue. The boxes also have a flap controlled by a thermostat that switches between fresh air and warm air from the manifold, I think its supposed to make the car warm up faster by recycling air coming from the manifold. Flap was stuck in the always warm position which hurt performance and MPG when hot, so I just bolted the flap down to be in the always cold position. I think its 100% the grille. the rattle vanishes when I lift the grille up even slightly. My guess is time and a life of sitting outside hasn't been kind to the bolts and arms holding it in place. I got a set of new bolts and arms along with the new rubber buffers, so all thats coming apart when it arrives. Hopefully the combination of those new parts and the rubber silicone stuff will help to finally put this issue to rest. If not, might see if anyone is scrapping a VRS in black magic and I'll just put a new bonnet on. Might be nice to have the sound deadening panel that comes with those too.

You could use a little of your own advice there, but let’s gloss over your continued propensity for personal abuse and move on. Thank you for the detailed explanation. I now understand the point you are trying to make, although I would suggest that simply saying ‘oversteer bad’ as you did in your first attempt wasn’t actually as helpful as you evidently thought it was… and neither was getting annoyed when someone asked you to elaborate. And yes, the photo of your colleague’s tyre along with a description of his profession was irrelevant. You provided absolutely no context to the photo or why you had posted it - if you had, then it might not have been quite so irrelevant. Telling us what happened to the tyre or to your colleague would have been a start. I still don’t think (yes, just my opinion, but I’m allowed one) Average Joe is going to get bitten in the arse because of this. Idiot Boy is still going to be going too fast round the bend for anything to stop him hitting the tree. Old Lady is still going to reverse into that parked car or lamppost. BMW/Audi/Mercedes Man might benefit when he’s driving like a loon, but he’ll find a way to have an accident anyway. Perhaps the problem is there just aren’t enough Average Joe’s around anymore who try to drive safely and not put their vehicles into a situation where understeer or oversteer are ever going to be a problem. Of course, there’s always going to be that patch of black ice that screws everything up no matter how new the tyres are on either axle - been there, survived that. If I’m wrong and die in an oversteer induced fireball next week, then please feel free to say you told me so. And call me stupid.

Drivers collection part 2

Where in West Yorks are you. I've got VCDS so can read fault codes and have messed about quite a bit with clusters, I'm just not in @Eddie-NL 's league. Cheers, Kev.

I have obviously made modifications to the Caddy to enhance its performance, and others to change the aesthetics, but I am struggling to think of one previously that has specifically been made with road safety in mind, although I have an example now. I think it is also the first instance of my reinstating a modification that had been in place when I bought the Caddy and which I had subsequently removed. My son had been driving behind the Caddy and told me afterwards that the brake lights were not as noticeable as they ought to be, in the absence of a high level centre brake light. Given that he knows that the Caddy has no centre brake light and was therefore conscious to keep an eye out, this made me think that less switched-on drivers could miss my braking altogether, with disastrous consequences. I liked the idea of mounting a brake light externally above the rear window, except that would mean drilling holes in the cab back, which I did not fancy much. I thought it would be much easier to find a universal brake light to stick inside the rear window, but actually it took me a while to find one, and I was not happy with the quality of the best one I could find. After deciding I did not want to use it, I spent a few more weeks scouring kit car parts sites and the like to try to find a better part. The problem was that so-called ‘universal’ internal brake lights are designed to fit to the sloping rear windows of cars rather than the practically vertical rear window on a pick-up. Eventually I found another brake light capable of swivelling on its mountings to accommodate mounting on windows of different inclinations, and which appeared online to be higher quality than the first light I bought. When the second one arrived it proved to be just a shorter version of the first, so that was a set-back. At this point I resigned myself to not being able to find a better part to use, and decided to try to adapt the ones I had already bought. There were three features of the brake lights which I was unhappy with: the cable was routed through the rotating mounting, so the mounting could not be moved to the required position without pinching it; the case and swivel mechanism were horribly flimsy; and the open design meant that light could leak out all over the place, which I thought could be distracting when driving. As well as this, the longer light had three LEDs which lit only intermittently, and whichever one I chose would need a 2-pin connector fitted to it. Taking the two lights apart was easily accomplished, which is an obvious advantage of the flimsy construction. The fault with the LEDs was due to the lead on a resistor not having been trimmed after it was soldered, so that it was shorting across the PCB. With the lights disassembled it was straightforward to pull the cable back through the hole in the mounting and feed it through a new hole drilled in the body of the light. After that I made the lights a bit more robust by drilling the ends for bigger flanged screws to replace the tiny countersunk ones they had originally. When I took the picture below I thought I had them finished, but subsequently I took the smaller light apart again and added some black tape along the sides of the light lens, and some similar tape over the ridiculous lettering on the side. Adding the wiring for the brake light was simply a case of taking the passenger interior sill trim off and splicing into the loom between the B-pillar and the grommet it passes through towards the rear. The new wires were run up behind the B-pillar trim panels and then fed between the headlining and the roof using a straightened wire coathanger. By this point I still had not decided which of the brake lights I should use. From an aesthetic perspective I preferred the smaller one, so I tried that one first to judge if it was big enough to be sufficiently visible. For the purpose of this check I attached the light to the rear window with masking tape. My initial impression was that it was fine, but before I committed I left it overnight to see if I felt the same way the following day, which I did, so the light was fixed properly with double-sided sticky pads. I would like to think that my new brake light installation is a tad more tasteful than what it had when I bought it.

Hi! New to the forum. Since 2018, I am the happy owner of a Superb II 2013 2.0 TDI L&K, DSG. It currently has 250k km, and my goal is to keep it going for as long as possible. The interior and mechanically, it feels as solid as the first day. Aesthetically, it has a number of battle scars, and I don't plan to do anything about it. The reason I love the car is that it is incredibly practical, economical, and that I choose to not worry much about it. If if gets another scratch, I just shrug and move on. So that's why I post the picture below: In its most practical form, the Superb after carrying four people and their paddleboard gear and picnic stuff:

As soon as I got the Caddy home I put it away safely in the garage to keep it clean for the Retro Rides Weekender.