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Absolutely they do not. As we know and have discussed from day one of the 'Truth of Electric Vehicles'. But there are more and more choices of charging. Some just adapt to suit. If it does not suit, then just do not do it. If eating and drinking at Fast Food places, or Motorway Services type places is not your thing then do not do it. I am often amazed at those worrying about the tariff to charge at some locations but seem to have no issue maybe spending £7.50 or more for a hot drink and a pastry etc. (Maybe 10 kWh worth of money that could get you 40 miles more and to a supermarket / charger where you can buy cheaper stuff, like 'Yellow label reduced' stuff. Like a tight person like me does. My 100 gram jars of own brand coffee at home is 99 pence, i do not pay £3.50 for a coffee out and about. if my passengers wants to buy me one then fine. They are never asked to pay for charging / fueling the car.) BP Pulse chargers at some locations means when charging you get discounts on a drink and something to eat. The thing is you can flash your card say you are charging and still get that discount even if there with an ICE vehicle filling up or not filling up.

I sense your pain, known about this for years. Before I have an alignment job needed, I need to, either myself, or my friend mechanic with a lift, "undo" and loose the nuts so these primadonnas do not complain about "extra effort" required .... And almost all of them are like this! Terrible! Another one that is a classic is after messing around with the alignment, the car still goes crooked and the answer is "steering wheel is out of true" ... 🙄 Now I found an oldtimer that is a big Alfa Romeo nostalgic like myself and he does not care to fire the oxy nd heat up stuff to loose nuts, but it has taken me like years to get to him ....

My wife's Superb was updated a week ago on 2nd December and there have been no problems since. She drove 320 miles at the weekend and all was well. She's finally starting to enjoy the car which she couldn't before due to the constant errors.

They can't, the intercooler traps bits from the cold side and the exhaust cat traps bits from the hot side. No prayers needed.

Note I said physically unlock (i.e. by sliding the cover on the door handle and using the actual physical key) this is for when the remote doesn't work.

....Bear in mind I have 2 cars, and Roomie does not want to keep the ac going unless it's on (older style compressor), so my remark on seals, valves and compressor still applies. But for both cars, including my Mk3 OCtavia vRS, it's the humidity that forces year round use of a/c for me. Neither car is garaged, and if you forget using airco in winter for a while, both would start to feel/smell like a moldy damp sofa after a month or so. Regarding HVAC coding, I think there are 2 options, "use in humid countries" or "humidity control/" or the like (I think byte 14 x8 and x4), and the other which I found made more difference was byte 13 "compressor on when not cooling" because then obviously it dries out incoming air. I have actually disabled the byte 14 x8 option and switched to x4 which also does something on demisting (don't remember VCDS description exactly, just have my coding noted), for me the byte 13 change made all the difference I needed. Note it does increase fuel consumption, but only in line with what previous Skoda's did, i.e. if the AC is switched on, the compressor keeps the evaporator at near freezing, that's all.

You tell us, Are they the same size as what you’re taking off?

Nerd point - the only Quattro is THE Quattro, all other AWD/4WD Audis are badged quattro.

Incorrect, your AC compressor is a non clutch type whose modulating valve circulates refrigerant 100% of the time even when you believe it is switched off albeit at a reduced duty cycle.

Go look at them. Maybe a Independent Trader with various cars and an honest person that like repeat customers might be worth talking to. A Salesperson with Skoda of all kinds might point you towards certain / features but they are trying to sell all their stock. or cars they have coming in. Hardly likely to give you any stories to put you off a Skoda. Unless about to get sacked or moving on to pastures new very soon.

The issue with that is it's sort of like calling up Apple and asking them about issues with the iPhone 13 and issues with used ones on eBay. a) They aren't going to tell you the bad things about their cars (forums, FB groups, Reddit, etc are far better for this). To be fair, the mk3 Octavia/Mk3 Leon/Mk7 Golf/8V A3 platform is generally a really reliable and popular choice. It has problems, but every car has problems. There is nothing significant like the Ford Ecoboom problem on these cars. b) They also can't really comment or help with used advice (bar telling you to buy from them), as they've no idea what has happened to the car since it left their factory. They would likely be happy to do a top down inspection on the car after purchase (here in the UK a company called the AA will, for a fee, do an inspection on any car before you buy it. I would definitely suggest looking into something similar). Aside from checking it has FSH and the timing belt has been done, there isn't much more you can do without physically taking a look. There is no 'good' used car. Most are good, however some are not. If you don't know much about cars, ultimately you can only avoid against this risk by going approved used.

Any VCDS code descriptions that describe the actual fault are purely coincidental! They usually say"open circuit or short to ground" which are two mutually exclusive conditions, the control module measures the volt drop when the circuit is commanded, if it is outside of the set parameters it generates the fault code with a dodgy description.

Yes, but if you watch his other videos he is a bit of a numpty. For example, on the way to Inverness he stopped for lunch but didn't charge "because it wasn't his planned charge stop". Set off and stopped to charge 40 minutes later..... I've lost patience with this particular vlogger after 3 videos. 🤷‍♂️ (I'll probably watch the rest of the NC500 videos though as I love the area and the BUZZ ) CPS chargers in remote locations are a bit of a PITA but I also think its well known they need an RFID card to get started. An Electroverse card will cover a lot of his issues if he don't want to get a CPS card.

I have my a/c on all the time. Humiditiy control in winter is the main reason, another is that a/c compressor, valves and seals tend to live much longer if you do not keep airco off for several months in winter. Note that I have had to change coding on the airco control unit to make sure humidity is controlled as well as in my previous Skodas. The default settings are so eco-friendly, that the AC is automaticlaly off as soon as internal temperature can be controlled with (often damp) air from the outside. So by default, temperature control is good, but humidity control is inadequate.

Almost half way down Scotland as a starting place , but we get the idea.

If the keys become mismatched, unlock the car with a working key, then turn on ignition with the non working key and that often resolves the issue. If it is still not resolved, press a button on the non-working key, e.g door open button, and keep it pressed for a while until the car can match the sequence being sent. Of course with Kessy, turning on ignition with a different key becomes problematic, but you could try e.g. pressing door open/close button on the problematic keycard (once the car is unlocked with the functioning key). In theory, you can also match keys on a locked car by pressing the door open button on the key for long enough, but to be honest this has never worked out for me, so cannot say for sure. I have had mismatched keys a couple times in the past on 2 cars, once because of not using one key for many years, and another time after replacing the keyfob battery. In general, a lot of things requiring security code tend to resolve themselves or at least are much easier to resolve once ignition is on, not just keyfob issues but also e.g. radio code issues.

Delayed update for this in case anyone's interested. I bought the back plates from Euros, they come with the little plastic button things installed already. Got on the driveway in the cold and took everything off again only to find out that the bolt holes didn't line up at all. Took them back to Euros only to be told after a good 20 mins of the guy clicking away on his computer, that despite the website saying they were correct, they were in fact backplates for a Octavia 🙄. Euros can't get hold of the back plates and nor could 2 other local motor factors. Skoda parts department wanted £130 a side for them however they have no UK stock. Be advised that the majority of the ones that came up on AutoDoc etc appear the same as the ones Euros gave me and therefore won't fit. The only correct looking ones I found were from websites delivering from Poland and Germany so just double check if you are buying some. I got hold of some more plastic button things and decided to refurb the existing back plates as best I could. Anyway it all seems to be working correctly now , brakes feel good and handbrake is sooooo much better. Thanks for all the help 😁

Its not the supplementary electric heater running is it? That is the only thing I have ever noticed insrease the idle apart from a regen or the air con on a very hot day. If you go on the convenience consumer menu its pretty obvious as the 'air conditioning' (read-HVAC) bar is right across as it draws up to 80 Amps

One interesting point nobody has mentioned (I think) is that the compressor chucks out nice dry air. During the summer, when it's hot, I'll run the a/c for obvious reasons (usually just on screen and vents at about 19°). In spring and autumn I usually have it at 18/19° but with a/c off. Of course, in winter, it doesn't make sense to have a/c on, but I always have it on and set at 20°. When the air is damp, and the interior has wet feet or whatever, having the a/c on prevents any damp. Another thing is to get a nice air freshener jar thing, and some silica moisture absorbing bags. These, combined with the a/c, mean the car stays fresh and dry all year round. I hate damp in cars.

Got Rusty out for a quick drive after a couple of weeks sitting and it sounds like a Subaru. Looks like cylinder 1 HT lead is failing. Lumpy at idle and pulsing at low RPM but perfect above 3500. Better get a new set ordered as cylinder 4 lead failed a year ago, I'm sure they will go one by one. Managed to troubleshoot without any electric shocks this time, which is nice

You have to have power fold mirrors and have the switch on the left mirror. When it's dipped, the adjustments you make are specific to that mirror, and only when it is dipped. It has a memory. I used to leave my Leon in L all the time. Shame my Octavia doesn't have it - it's a nice feature!

It will work but the APP button may not work (depening on your car - in MY16 units it will not work, in MY17 it will).

Do you have power mirrors? Is the miror knob in the L position?

SkodaParts.com are really good - I use them frequently.

I had aliexpress LED bulbs in boot over a year before problems started. However, they were the cause. Other possibility is microswitch in the boot lock/latch. Basically a latch replacement job. Some times there is leak in the rear washer that causes the problem in the latch. However, you shud start by replacing the LED bulbs with OEM bulbs or with OEM equivalent LEDs that have similar resistance than OEM bulbs. At least Kopacek sells such LEDs.

Is it just that the mirror selector switch on the drivers door is not set correctly?

Thanks Arturp, I had a look at both and while the 13" is really nice and doesn't obstruct the view as you say. It is €1,400 and I think the 10.5" looks fine to me, those couple of inches are very expensive

Well it sure would not be a desired feature. They were not frozen to the screen were they?

That's why I was asking the year. I had a quick glance at circuits, and I think I concluded that Chris's car predates such BCM involvement. Not fully sure on that though.

A VCDS scan will show you the BCM part number. Here's what it shows on my 2016 L&K: Component Protection removal requires access to the Skoda servers, so can only be done by a dealer or an independent with online access to them.

The missing bearing on the shaft was on exhaust side 🤞 so far it’s back together and alls well 🤞🤞🤞

B12 is usually just a kit comprised of B6/8 shocks and Eibach pro/H&R springs. This can be put together yourself and allows for more tuning of part selection. Can recommend B6 for this car. FYI the rear on a 1.4 is torsion beam so no proper solution for rear roll bar. I had B6 fitted with Eibach pro springs to my 2.0 tdi estate and it didn't need a roll bar. That had the same rear setup. Lots of people have said that you need B8 if lowering but I have done it on two cars now with B6 with no issues. Bilstein also say you can moderately lower with B6.

That parcel shelf cable holder. Pure genius. gotta love Skoda for these things.

The OP,s DQ200 has 2 oils, in the MCU and in the gearbox. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/470446-precautionary-dq200-oil-change

Yes, I believe that this is the recommended practice.

@Warrior193 @dieselV6 Regarding sequenced keys/codes - do either of you know if using a spare key 'brings it up to speed' with the car/rx? I.E. in theory, using the spare key(s) to unlock and lock the car every few months should keep things working?

The 1ltr DSG is plenty powerful and smooth for everyday use, it's pretty good on long journeys too. If I want that extra boost I stick it in sport mode, it's like a little rocket ship. Having never driven an auto for many many years it was really surprising how quick and smooth these gearboxes are, I'm hooked.

I've had a car with a 10" screen and have now one with a 13" inch screen. I'm definitely in favor of having the bigger touchscreen. Yes, it is protruding above the dash but it still sits low enough as to not block any view out of the windscreen (compare that to a Golf where the screen sits quite a bit higher).

Hello! Topic update: After discussing with mechanic past week we decided to start solving problem step by step. First was Haldex oil change. And after 200km its promising. All symptoms was gone. So far, so good. Maybe some metal debris were present. Off course I take care of machine I just wanted to know if this symptoms can result in catastrophic failure and further expenses Thanks to all for now. I hope I'll not have to write for help again near time soon Kindly regards.

I never did try the third spare key, so cannot say if any issues after new owner took delivery.

35 bhp worth of difference. Near 1/3 rd greater in the 4 cylinder 1.5 TSI ACT than the 3 cylinder 1.0TSI. But both do 70 mph 4 up with luggage.

OK, so stuff the £69 for the single US one, I just ordered 8 of the springs from Ali. Of course they maybe crap but it’s worth a punt. I don’t have the issue at present, but seems it’s likely one will break.

@jazzyjeff did you ever try the other key (e.g. when you sold it)? I've never had an issue with keys before, but I got caught out with the whole 'due to ODIS a normal garage can't code in your new battery, Sir' and didn't want to make a similar mistake again!

My understanding is that the keyfob sends a rolling code signal - meaning that a different code is sent each time the vehicle is unlocked. AFAIK, the receiver has a list of expected codes to recognise - or anticipate in subsequent code sequences, which change every time the RX & TX communicate. It is apparently possible for the transmitter and receiver codes to become mis-matched if the transmitter sends more than a certain number of codes while not in range of the receiver.

Guys, do what I do and just use your car normally. It involves just using your car normally🤷🏻‍♂️ If that means not using your car for days on end, or using it every single day then so be it, you’ll probably find that you have zero battery issues either way. I do, have done for as long as I can remember, no issues whatsoever. Threads like this literally twist my melon man🤷🏻‍♂️😂😂

Thanks Rich. Good to know that the aerial can be hidden away like that. I'll do some more research. Good luck with your project!

Not tried to pull it out yet but did you need to use any tool or was it just brute force!?

It was the one to have in the E36 world - I hasten to add this was in 2005 before Milltek came along and decided to add a nought onto every price...Scorpion if you wanted everyone in the postcode to know you'd just started the car, Supersprint if you wanted subtle. I had a Magnex backbox on my Saxo VTR (I know - all the stereotypes) and that was great; no sound difference when cold, sounded a little deeper when warmed through. Would happily have that on the Superb. Back on topic - ok good to know its consistent and normal then at least!

I am willing doing this retrofit. I currently have the plastic trim with the 2 holes for the USB ports to fit through. The code is 5E3863618 (9B9) The hard part is the wiring. There is no wiring in the car so if someone wants to add these ports they have to build it themselves. I'm thinking of getting power from the wiring of the front USB ports. This is the existing connector for the front USB Ports

This is possible, I’ve done it to my car and for another member. You need a donor VW USB and you can either use a VW USB hub for this and add as a source in the radio or you can do as I have done and build a USB that goes in the socket to charge with a donor VW USB and a USB hub from Amazon. Cut the insulation off the Amazon USB, put it inside the VW USB case, run it to the fusebox for power, hide the CarPlay dongle behind the A/C trim. Job done