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It'll be just fine for topping up, oil doesn't separate into anything, it stays as oil for millions of years before we dig it out of the ground.

My Mums car was in an Accident as she reversed into my car as she was taking it down for it's first service at 1 year old. I had arranged the insurance. But on the wrong registration number. The number plate on the front was SP06 JJO and the rear one was ST06 JJO and i had not noticed until reporting the accident. £1,000 damage to the rear. The insurance were ok about the error. I had driven the car for a year and never noticed. When i was going to collect the car the front plate was clear to see and yet i never noticed they plates never matched. EDIT. PS. Actually i did not arrange the Insurance other than giving our Names , Ages etc. The car was bought cash money and came with Insurance and Servicing & me as Keeper and my mum as a named driver. (Because of her age and them actually insuring her. 99 now so 80 then.) They First Registered and did the insurance.

@wyx087 has a Nissan Leaf. EV,s were very expensive vehicles to buy new or slightly used until recently and are only now becoming more proven as to which are reliable or less likely to be a money pit as far as repairs. There are ones I would not touch with a barge pole like from Stellantis no matter how cheap. As it is I still do not intend buying an EV as a replacement for an ICE I am going to be retiring. I have no mates that are EV technicians or any Independent EV garages near. I could not work on them.

I've just bought a replacement car for my wife and it got me thinking. I wonder, how many people on Briskoda actually own an EV, in that they actually committed their own money to buy and own an electric vehicle? I'm excluding lease contracts, Motability, and PCP contracts. I'm happy to count a car you ran under PCP and then bought at the end of the contract, and obviously HP and personal loans are just ways to finance ownership of a car. What I want to know is how many people on here actually OWN an electric vehicle. (And I mean a Battery Electric vehicle, not a plug-in or self-charging hybrid.) Anyone at all?

I get a barely noticeable version of this when I turn the ignition on, the system turns on and the hinged flaps revert to where they’re meant to be. In other words, I’m assuming it’s where these flaps are moving about depending on where the air is being directed to. Not sure whether or how the hinges/mechanism can be lubricated though.

Not true of the rear wiper motor which does indeed contain a canbus node however........................ Edited, this is wrong, my guardian angel has once again enlightened me, the Roomster uses the simpler Fabia system It could be that a previous owner removed it for vanity reasons and got fed up with a no comms error code in VCDS so removed it from the Can Gateway controller installation list. I would first check the cable cores in the rear door bellows, there are probably broken or fractured ones, ditto for the front passenger door electrics but check the drivers door loop first. No relay in the front with canbus comms, the switching is done by the canbus node in the rear wiper unit/ Edited, incorrect, see above.

I think Skoda warranties like VW are for cars up to 10 years old and 100,000 miles. The 6 year limit is for the All in warranty and service package.

If you install the MySkoda app onto your phone there's a "Car details" function which shows everything fitted to your individual car. I purchased my previous vehicle from Motorpoint, kept it for 3 years with no issues at all 🙂

Last time i heard that excuse was when A-76 was not sold anymore and Moskwitch owners were panicking because they could only buy A92 or 95E fuel... i have ran all of my cars on 98E only, from 1966 audi and same era moskwitch up to Mk3 and Mk4 1.5TFSi Superbs. No problem at all.

Most aftermarket warranties will now only cover a major mechanical issue. Skoda used car warranties are now out of scope after they reduced the years of age of the vehicle to 6 years. Garages will go with the cheapest cover that can be provided and cover that will give them the biggest kickback in terms of commission. Depends on what your budget is and what you want covered. I'm seeing aftermarket warranty cover being anything from £600-£800 per 24 months / approx £300-400 per year. They all require you to maintain fully comprehensive insurance cover as well as making sure that your electronic service record is maintained (or that you can prove you've had your regular servicing covered).

Yes absolutely, main concern is to finish Friday with as close as possible to a full battery to maximise free usage at the weekend! The chargers hardly get used at the moment despite a few people owning EVs which I find quite surprising. If it becomes a problem then I'm hopeful we could get them upgraded, or more installed. Yes the ID7 is clearly an expensive option but I pay tax at 62% so this takes a fair amount of the hit. Will have to wait and see!

Just a note that there are now 98 (out of 175) Tesla hubs open to all EVs. Also there are now over 800 charging HUBS in the UK, in addition to all the 1/2/3 rapid charger sites around the country.

Yes - I don't have a home charger currently but apparently the scheme will be run through Octopus who offer a free home charger apparently. I already use Octopus Agile at home but will obviously switch to a more EV focused tariff if and when I have it. There's an Eon tariff that looks quite interesting at around 7p kW/h for 7 hours at night which would work well I reckon. Especially as I have air conditioning that I often run (for heating and cooling) during the night. Agile hasn't been a great tariff over the winter months so was thinking about moving on anyway. But as I mentioned, I'm hoping to get most, if not nearly all charging for free at the workplace EV chargers. Only slight concern is they are only 3.6kw so I can probably only get 30-35kW/h per day and my commute is around 33 miles each way. Plus if lots of people start getting them then there will probably be quite a scramble for the chargers😅 I guess final choice of vehicle will largely come down to the numbers of the various vehicles available on the scheme. The ID7 is interesting to me as it looks to be one of the most efficient and longest range available at the moment, especially as it's low drag coefficient should mean it's still fairly efficient at higher speeds as most of my driving is motorway.

I'm actually currently considering obtaining an EV. I'm sure that statement will be met with a degree of incredulity by many readers!😄 The situation is that work recently mentioned that they are going to be introducing a salary sacrifice scheme which got me thinking... It will obviously depend on the numbers once the scheme gets up and running (the scheme isn't running yet). However - and this is obviously only my situation... I currently own my wife's Polo outright which is worth around £14k - if I sold it and put the money in the bank I could reasonably expect to earn about £500 or more a year in interest (obviously this could drop). I could shift about 20k of my annual mileage onto the EV (15K of this would be commuting and the rest made up of other local short trips). I could keep the Skoda and use this for my longer journeys and have the added benefit of keeping the mileage low and therefore depreciation (I'm currently doing about 22k miles a year on the Skoda and about 10k on the Polo). 20k miles worth of fuel is probably at least £2k at current prices and I should be able to charge the EV at work as we have chargers (albeit very slow and only 4no.) and obviously I could charge cheaply at home for any additional requirements. So total potential savings per year as it stands would be: £500 interest £2,000 fuel £3,000 set aside for replacement car £300 servicing £200 VED £6,000 total Unknowns Actual cost of the scheme - i.e. how much will I lose in take home pay for whatever car I choose. Inclusions/exclusions - would insurance be covered for example? It's certainly got me thinking about which EV is best though. Looking for something efficient and long range to minimise need of public charging but still be able to maximise what I can use it for. Tesla's seem the obvious market leaders but I really don't like the look of them and neither do I like the touch screen does everything approach. The charging network is obviously a massive plus with them but as I don't really intend to do much, if any public charging then it's not really a game changer. Plus it looks like they will be increasingly opening the sites to all EVs in the long term anyway. I won't take any of the Chinese brands. The most obvious model that's got my attention at the moment is the VW ID7 estate. Seems to be very efficient, great range, highly practical and well equipped. Downsides seem to be the relatively high cost. Have I missed anything? Any other cars that I could look at? Any other potential costs/savings I've missed?

I noticed that the switching to P (the gearbox park, not the EPB) might be noisier sometimes - single clunk as you say - depending on how you proceed: - if you press directly the STOP button while gearbox is in D/S or R, the noise will be louder; - if you press P (gearbox Park) before pressing STOP - the entire process will be quieter. Depending on the "flatness" of the surface you parked the car onto, if there's some slope, it might be better to first engage the EPB, press P after that, and press STOP at the end.

1st gear synchromesh cones worn. Amazing given that 5th 4th and 3rd are the ones that get worn through downchanges and your gearbox will have twin synchro hubs per gear, wear is virtually unheard of. I reckon your car had a clutch hydraulic failure (very common) and was driven without the clutch but the driver did not know to pull away in 1st gear by starting the engine and instead tried forcing it into gear. A shame as they are otherwise bullet proof .

Don't just rely on the digital record get a paper printed back up each time, I can personally assure you the garages and VWŠkoda UK make and have errors on digital system, my evidence of this is already on this site. In the UK if you are using a VWŠkoda Dealership they can give both a "Individual record" of the work just done and a "Complete record" of all recorded stuff, from pre-inspection onwards in your case - this is in addition to any Dealership paper printout of the bill/invoice and worksheet(s). ETA: they also have different names for the different work do make sure they have reordered this correctly as sorting it out later is a right pain, guess how I know and if an independent garage does it wrong there is only a short time for them to correct their mistake and if they cannot or are too later it remains incorrect (guess how I know). If you are old like my wife and I the Dealership may tend to paper print the "Individual record" without being asked to as they know us oldies want it on paper as we have decades of experience of how bad computer systems can be, thank gawd we don't have to rely them in our cars. :yikes:

I would take the bill and a print of the digital record to the garage that did the service and insist they update the digital record.

Just so you know, ACC is designed for use on motorways and dual carriageways, not slow roads with sharp bends that can cause the car in front to suddenly ‘disappear’ from the view of the radar. You’re discovering all the use-cases that ACC was never designed for and complaining that it can’t handle them. Essentially, it sounds like you’re expecting ACC to be akin to autonomous driving, which it really isn’t - perhaps the full-on self-driving abilities of a Tesla would suit you better?

Now sold

Update on this! Hendy Skoda in Bournemouth have deemed that the juddering is due to a faulty steering rack. We picked it up today and it’s had a new steering rack fitted under my extended warranty and can confirm this has sorted the issue.

I was think more of something like the follow, which is just the first example on the page so just general example. - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_KfBklu-qwQ Even so if something in the chain is not set correctly then adjusting the mixture will be setting it to the wrong adjustment for correct overall set up, it is up to you what you do but my experience is, and I have done it myself, when someone thinks "it won't be that so I won't check" or "I have already checked so no need to check again" Sod's Law things should have been checked or rechecked. Even very experienced professional people can make this mistake. Some on here may be able to point you to where you might find some sort of copy of the factory workshop manual and Owner's Manual. So do you already know about this car and its settings for say the CB points and spark plugs the engine timing and so on. You have to take a bit of care where you get your information from particularly with the internet and parts suppliers and others databases. On here are owners that have had the Felicia and used it for decades so they (not me) have real world experience and knowledge of what works best with the car in today's world. But as I put generally as a starting point at least following the original Owner's Manual (and factory WSM - workshop manual) is a good place to start, so much has changed for a 25 year old car in 25 years. Yes I saw that, that is the fuel filter after the fuel pump presumably, I wondered as I do not know if the fuel pump has a built-in filter or a standard factory filter between tank and pump, others would know I do not. Good. Fair enough. I have put most of what I know so will leave you in the capable hands of the other posters here and others yet to post. Good luck, let us know how you get along and the outcome.

When did you buy the car? Was it from a dealer? How did you pay? Where has it been for servicing? Is it the same place as the supplying dealer or the dealer who has investigated the failure? How long was it and how many miles were covered since the last service? Has any other engine work been done since the last service? Was the failure caused by low oil pressure alone (e.g. failed pump, blocked circulation) or low oil level (e.g. leak, poor workmanship in servicing, oil excessive oil consumption issue)? (this should be answered by the first inspection after the failure) Depending on answers to the above, there might be a chance of some financial recovery/contribution, but my gut feel is that it's going to be very difficult especially as you continued to drive the car until the engine seized. If I was in this situation I'd sell the car as-is for spares/repair and buy another one - that route feels like less stress/hassle and easier recourse in case of future faults.

Mass market cars have water based paints and have for a long time so really that is not the issue.

Thanks for all the replies. I've been through and checked a few things, like the battery (which is new anyway) and the fuse which also does the PDC, all ok. I still haven't been underneath to check wiring to the sensors because it's so wet here, maybe tomorrow. It would be very useful to get a copy of the wiring diagram so I can check the pins on the plug to the module, also I don't know where the module is either?

I just had a look at my car in the app. The digital certificate includes a section entitled "Standard Equipment" - pages 4 and 5 just after the service history.

I just hope the Bentley has a better paint finish than the Karok.

Ok! We have lift off atleast for the front wipers. Phew. Thanks you @Breezy_Pete. any idea which it would be for the rear of it is in fact a missing fuse?

So first week on the road, about 250KM done and no issues at all. ( touch wood !) When the engine went back into the car a few careful modifications were done. Now whereas before I averaged 6.5L/100KM, I know get 5L/100KM. Arrived home today and dipped the oil. It's still as clear as the day it went in. So draw your own conclusions from this. The springs I put in made a difference to the height but the ride is almost as soft as before when in DCC Normal, Sport also feels the same as before. There's no weight in the car , so this may change with a larger weight.

Quite happy with the auto door locking but the auto seat belt tensioner still catches me out. I live in a short road to a T junction and just as I lean forward to get road vision the seat belt pulls me back.

In your boot you have a full width hammock for carrying light items. These clips connect onto the rearmost bar of this hammock, with difficulty, to give you two more hooks in the rear boot space. Once in place though you cannot roll up the hammock to store tidily . I have mine in the side storage pocket after clipping them on and off a few times. A versatile idea but not too successful.

Additives will not know or care that the bottle has been opened and some of the contents used, exposure to engine heat, mechanical shear and combustion gases is a different matter.

Eon plan 6 new hubs in Scotland https://www.eonhttps://www.eon-uk.news/news/eon-accelerates-scotlands-ev-future-with-ultra-rapid-charging-expansion

Someone fixed this recently, can’t remember who but just needed silicone spray somewhere in the vents to relube it

The last 6 characters/numbers are simply a numerical sequence. The vehicles either side of yours will have been 112452 and 112454. In the case of my Karoq, the number is 007961.

That's more than enough for free return journey. Even 4 hours is enough to cover majority of your commute (40 odd miles) still giving lots of fuel saving. If more people get EV, you can work out some sort of whatsapp group within the company and coordinate charging this way (eg, 4 hours morning for first batch, afternoon for late leavers). When we only had 4 charge points, we did this until more were installed. With free or cheap energy and routine journey, you won't need to focus on efficiency. ID7 may wipe out possible savings, it's their top of the line offering, so be careful and do the numbers. Unless the lease on ID range is very cheap because the car is end of 2024 pre-reg for VAG's ZEV mandate, everyone seems to think there is lots parked up in a field.

This is the important code, it suggests a lack of supply voltage to the J431. Have you checked the fuse that supplies it? Myabe getting the wiring diagram it a good idea - a site called erwin has the official information?

The great unknown is the UK,s Labour Government. UK Growth and Taxing the workers and non worker / retired.

Did Nissan lease batteries? I thought that was Renault. EDIT, I see they did / do. Now I could have got caught out buying one from a man in the betting shop.

The ICE is started by the electric motor (that can be used as a motor, generator or starter), so it uses the HV battery.

Possibly in the 20th century but not in recent times especially since covid not finding many three year old cars in the 3k bracket. I paid circa 14k for a 2020 plate 1.5 petrol with 40k miles on it last year so 4 years old, new list price was 26 27k

Consider it a bonus 😁

Sorry to jump on your post, but I'm also interested in this. I had it in my 2019 Sportline+ and also have it in my 2023 one. I also get a clicking from the ventilation system for about 20 to 30 seconds when it's warming up which I assume is some sort of expansion. I'm a bit reluctant to take it to the dealer in case they have to strip the dash and I don't want rattles afterwards.

Once again for all those who don't know how to use "Search" 1. format SD (if possible 8, 16 or 32GB) under FAT32. 2. unpack to root (metainfo2.txt and all the folders must be placed directly on SD, not in any folder) 3. insert SD card into the slot 4. enter Service Menu (long press MENU button)

For this reason, I bought a £25 portable, battery-powered inflator that can also be powered from the 12V cigarette lighter outlet – and when the cord is not long enough, you have the battery. It can be charged via USB-C. There is a plethora of these Chinese-made ones available under different brands.

Hello @wantaskoda, Can you please ask the dealer for details about the software updates they performed on you car and which module has been upgraded? I'm encountering the same issue on cold morning on first start after the car has been sitting for more that 3-4 days during the Winter period. Thank you. All the best, DN

Next to impossible for it to be the fan, never seen a radiator fan running ona diesel other than for air con or regen purposes, it just doesn't happen, especially when moving Its more than likely the water pump sleeve sticking, or the thermostat or some other blockage causing poor coolant circulation. Best thing to do is to inspect where the return hose enters the coolant resovoir (the small bore hose) if the engine is hot and there is no coolant dribbling through that line, the water pump is not working.

@major-eyeswater pls share your VIN so I can chaeck your current setup and list you the options you have.

To those interested, I purchased a replacement key barrel from Skoda for £72 and Vika Steering Lock for £35 - all back in place and working nicely.