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Cleaned it for the MOT as obviously a clean car automatically means pass

Okay so here's the update! The lights are an old fault code as they seem to work, the aircon seems to be working too. AGFalco - There are no cords showing on the damage tyre and the tyre wall hasn't been damaged some how so that's good. Rum4mo & Nta16 - You're correct about the spare parts for the pollen filter so will grab that. Nta16 - When I do inevitable have to change the tyres I'll get a set 😊 and thanks for the part number. I forgot to check the window again haha, will try again tomorrow. All - As to the die in the cup sound (thanks Nta16), the mechanic had a look and couldn’t see anything but said it's very possible something is knocking around in the aircon. Sadly they didn't hear the noise but I did play it to them. Summary - this has been an interesting one, will get back to where I bought it from to see if they will give me some money to fix a couple bits. The mechanic said there is a bit of weirdness but for the most part it's wear and tear, they could of done a better job with some bits but it isn't a problem and the car will be fine and pass it's MOT. They did advise that I should get the air filter secured though.

Me too. But more so that it hadn’t been done in such a long time. Although MOT Friday so bonus if that helps. Carpro Retyre cleaning the tyres Plenty of Iron Fallout to get rid of Carpro’s Lift to pre wash, Reset to clean up, IronX to get rid of the iron, TarX to get rid of the tar spots. Finished article; Carpro Hydro2 being my LSP of choice. Will do for now.

*******s - there are many easy ways to crash a car even with an ADAS system.

I went for a mooch around Dungeness, where it was bright and sunny with a light haze. Flipping cold breeze though 🥶 I used to go sea fishing there, back in the late '70's: Stopped off on the way back to eye up some birds. Pretty sure I saw a Marsh Harrier, but no photo coz I was driving. Had I known how close I'd been (about 300 yards away) I'd have gone and had a look at the WW2 Sound Mirrors - gives me an excuse to go back when it's a bit warmer. Gaz

That is hard to belive and coming from Lord Haw haw GB News. EV hardly use their brakes, EVs are known to have discs and pads last 200k miles as they are so little used. Tyres i can believe EVs are a bit hard on as a bit heavier on average and the stronger torque from the off. I'll defer until a more credible source but I doubt there will be one as it sounds like bull.

Thought I put a thank you in my must post but I didn't see that I wrote it, even though it's in my draft. Thank you so much everyone for your help and advice, I really appreciate it 😊

SOS / Emergency call buttons very handy once there there are more and more having a Cardiac Arrest at EV charging hubs. Calling up mobile toilets would be useful for Tesla Superchargers and other hubs near no other facilities, those not near Motorways.

It is how it is with every vehicle i drive with any way they are powered. The thing with a BEV is that many once stopped a while or charged then have the range showing based on 5 miles a kWh, or 4 miles a kWh. As much as many say what they get it looks pretty much that many in the UK get around an average of 3.6 miles a kWh. 64 kWh battery x 3.6 is just 230.4 miles, where the 5 miles a kW/h is 320 / 4 miles a kWh is 256.

Here's an actual example from a petrol car I used to own - used it for urban commuting all week (lots of slow stop/start traffic) and filled up with petrol on the way home Friday - range shown 300 miles. Went on a 100 mile dual carriageway & motorway drive on Saturday - range at end 320 miles! So I drove 100 miles and had 20 miles MORE range at the end... How come? Estimated range in petrol/diesel VAG vehicles is based on the average consumption of the last 20 miles and my average consumption on the open roads on Saturday was much less than during the week.

Tyre cracking posts over the years on here with all sorts of the brands. Often someone posts saying the Tyre Fitter says 'We see that lots with Michelin's'. Or Dunlops, Pirelli, etc etc. It can happen with any brand / models of tyres in any location world wide. If it was common with Michelin that could be just because of the number of vehicles fitted with them. They are no more liable to cracking than any others tyres.

Different EV,s Different form of getting Regen Braking / Regening the battery. The Renault 5 EV is different from the Alpine A290 EV. Then Stalantis and B mode or D, now cars with C and doing it in an opposite way from the Starting off mode. MINI Electric Oxford built has a Regen Toggle. Other cars have Paddles. As it is one pedal town driving and one pedal out and about are different things @Graham Butcher. One pedal bringing you to a stop and putting on Brake lights is hopeless if you just want to lift off the power to slow for a corner. As to regen and cold. If COLD WEATHER happens to be an Icy / Snow covered road then as you drive easy and maybe use the brakes with care, or you would use the gear box to slow, or shift D to S with a DSG, the last thing you might want is the EV doing a one pedal LOTS of retardation.

That makes no difference to the problem that the EV won't have the same level of regenerative braking if the battery is cold or almost fully charged - you're ignoring the problem, not answering the question.

Any modern car does this anyways. 30 ADAS system. Almost impossible to crash the car going forwards or backwards. Perhaps we need to ban all cars over 5 years or so old that have not got these safety systems as humans are the weak point in the safety equation ?

Reminds my of driving my friends vintage Morris where you monitor the car parameters all the time eg manual ignition advance/retard and keeping an eye on battery capacity and manually turning off charging where the battery full indicator is the battery bubbling away. Surely any modern electric car would just automatically deal with any regeneration issues etc, my hybrid certainly does.

There are plenty of areas near where I live in Wiltshire with NO mobile data reception, even the large new housing estate where I live has reception so poor that phones revert to WiFi Calling for voice calls! In the UK relying on mobile coverage for driverless vehicle operation is insane with so many not spots and areas of inconsistent mobile coverage. IMHO a pre-condition of allowing driverless vehicles needs to be decent reliable 4G/5G coverage.

@lol-lolAll a load of farting about that many can not be bothered about. They just want to get in a car and drive. But then UK NSL 60 mph roads like Harry goes road testing on and many drive and where regen will be wanted the EV,s do just fine even if you have a 98% battery and are doing 65 mph and lift off the accelerator. People do not read the Owners Manual every time they drive other peoples cars, or check tyre pressures, or maybe get with a full charge or a below 90% charge.

Taken by Mrs Gaz this evening: Gaz

So, there is a very commonly known fault that essentially bricks the memory profiles while leaving all the manual controls alone. This is shown to leave persistent faults for all the axis that failed to norm/standardize, usually the lumbar support up/down and in/out. Well, as it turns out, i found out that through long coding i can tell the module that lumbar support is not installed and all the related faults will clear. THIS WILL MAKE THE LUMBAR SUPPORT STOP WORKING SO MAKE SURE TO LEAVE IT WHERE YOU WANT IT FOR THE FORESEEABLE FUTURE. I'll make further tries later on to complete standardization/norming on these axes but for now i'm convinced it just ain't happening without a new module Fiest open vcds, select the seat memory module, enter long coding and accept experimental coding information Next, skip to byte 18 and 19 and untick "ldw/ldh_motor_installed" for each. Confirm and write the new long code. You should instantly hear a bong from the instrument cluster and you can set new presets by pressing "set", release then press any number. Personalization through kessy matching should also work now To gain back lumbar support controls, enable both again (and lose memory features)

You know the answer. 😉 Thanks. AG Falco

Mine has been in today to local VAG specialist. They stayed true to their quote of £890 fitting a new Luk clutch kit plus new flywheel. Said it took about 2 hours to do and shouldn't take much longer for someone who knows what they are doing. Only driven it a few miles so far, but gear changes are so much smoother and I never noticed they were that bad before! Car drives off like it should now. Well pleased.

Got my 2021 Octavia Estate SEL 1.5 TSI First Edition in October 2023. It came with several of the well-documented software "issues" which I was fortunate to get sorted under the original warranty. It was invaluable getting information from this group as I could be extremely specific with the dealership about what I wanted sorting, going as far as printing out TPI's, etc. In all honesty without the knowledge I gleaned from the group I suspect the dealership may have fobbed me off although, to be fair to them, they do seem to be one of the better Skoda dealerships. The car now all works very well, with great fuel efficiency, I like the tech side of the car and it drives well. I appreciate the frustration early purchasers must have experienced as it seemed to take Skoda an unacceptable amount of time to sort out many issues, often taking a total denial stance, which all seemed to be mostly software-related. I think this is the modern-day problem with all cars, they are so technical and built around software, that the mechanics rely almost completely on diagnostic computers - if the computer says "no" or the manufacturer hasn't acknowledged a problem they don't seem to be able to progress a solution.

Had my 2020 1.5 mk4 Octavia se estate 6 weeks, and can not fault it having moved up from a mk 2 estate. unless I’m in the minority 🤔 at 39,000 miles no issues or problems, I’m looking forward to talking it to over 90,000 miles the same as my 55 plate mk2 1.6 fsi has achieved thus far trouble free.

Okey, sorry. In both pictures, it's the same 87-degree thermostat. First, I put it in boiling water. Then the metal pin at the top came out. You could see it moving outwards. Then I put it in cold water, but nothing happened, it didn't move. Here, it was already suspicious that it wasn't working properly. I've now found a video explaining how the thermostat works, so that's clear. I replaced it with another one, a Bher brand, but nothing changed. Then the internal thermostat, which is behind the water pump, was also replaced with a Meyle brand, but no change, the water temperature still shows 50 degrees. It would be strange if the new thermostats were exactly the same bad. There is no error code. All I can do is open the thermostat again and test the new ones in boiling water. (By the way, if you hover your mouse over the image, it will display the link address at the bottom left or right and say "hot.jpg" or "cold.jpg". It would have been better if I could put the images side by side, but that's how it works.)

I agree. Do you have any problems closing the doors with the windows raised? Assuming that you are not a slammer!

Expected behaviour. The radio needs to be coded into the ECU. There is a canBus exchange to verify the radio is correctly registered. You'll need a specialist or a VW garage, as it requires the right software to be able to achieve this.

I don't drive my ev any different than I drove my Diesel. The only things i have had to get used to are 1: Not having to de-ice it before driving off. 2: I have a smaller capacity tank.

Hi there, I have joined this group as I have recently purchased my 1st Skoda, a 2015 Octavia Elegance 2.0 tdi with 172,000 m on it. From the initial test drive I was very impressed with the comfort & performance of it after owning several Volvos over the years. Although this is my 1st Skoda I also have a VW T4 camper which I have owned for 14 years now & have been very pleased with it. I have had a few issues with the Octavia but hopefully will get to the bottom of them soon and look forward to putting many more miles on the clock. Thanks for having me & catch up soon

@Graham Butcher Look in the Mk3 Fabia section. the likes of 'high RPM'. threads. 1.0 TSI,s with a GPF and cold starts, cold morning, morning icy / snowy maybe. Drivers concerned that they need to use brakes to hold the car back as they set off and try going slow and the car is running away with them. Newer Technology, can catch people out, as 'Coasting' does with some. & that acts differently with different generation / models of vehicles.

Exactly, we have been lifting off the gas peddle for decades as we approach bends etc and only touching the brakes when we need to. My car has adaptive cruise control and friends that are following me tell me that at times when I use the ACC that my brake lights come on far more frequently than when I don't use it and that is because it removes the throttle input to the ECU and replaces it with brakes if the vehicle in front is going slower than my set speed. The actual braking can be felt as well, whereas when not using it, I can sense that the vehicle in front is going slower can if, I'm not in safe position to overtake it, lift my foot off the throttle and allow the car to take advantage of the overrun on the engine to slow down slowly, ACC cannot do that, it senses anything coming into the radar cone and will brake until the set distance is achieved to keep us apart from each other.

Engineer by profession and mechanic by choice to keep costs down. Its all well and good @wyx087 going on about keeping costs and weight down, but sorry, that does not cut the mustard as far as I'm concerned, just like the BS about ECU and cold engine V BMS and battery temp and all of this software can solve it etc is just crap. None of it is making the EV simpler then an ICE, It's adding far more complexity into everything single thing and these things are mission-critical at times, like brakes. It would be far easier and more sensible for instance to strip out all of this regen nonsense so that the driver can simply transition from ICE to EV without having to get used to different ways of driving etc, need to slow down or stop, simple, use the bleeding brake pedal, it's been good enough for decades, so why change it? It's the same thing with the battery, and I just do not see why people struggle with the concept that the battery is simply a fuel tank, and nothing else. When has there ever been a requirement to monitor the temps on fuel tanks on ICE, the need to pre-condition it before topping the tank up, or the need to not exceed the 80% of its capacity or else the tanks' longevity will suffer. Like wise, with an ICE car, you don't need to source the right type of fuel pump or filling station to suit the type of car you're driving, any fuel pump will do other than sticking diesel into a petrol tank or the other way round. The more the designers can make EV's become more like their ICE equivalents, the easier it will be for people to replace their ICE with an EV. Make the charging more affordable and accessible, have batteries that do not have to be so critical of temperature, move controls away from touch screens to actual proper switches and knobs etc, bring prices down to those of ICE cars and get ranges upto similar as those for ICE then a lot of the issues that people cite as reasons not to consider EV for their next car have been done away with as it really just then becomes much the same as having either petrol or diesel, i.e., no special requirements or conditions as far as using and driving are concerned. We need less reliance altogether on software, we have all seen enough problems caused by software failings in our normal day-to-day life with things like computers, TVs, phones, sat nav etc all suffering from bugs / glitches etc that cause them to crash, reboot or lock up etc, we certainly do not need to have software in mission-critical parts of our cars.

There is no sound to your clip on U-tube. My 1.5 TSI engine is very quiet with no sign of tappet type noise.

There's a reason why I spent extra and got the helmholtz version - no drone at all, even under hard acceleration when overtaking or flooring up a hill.

Are you refering to ODIS which is the diagnostic tool or The electronic service guide - erwin previously known as elsa - which you can find at https://skoda.erwin-store.com/erwin/showHome.do

Had a quick look and it looks like the reservoir on a MK3 has a sensor not a float switch. The ones I have seen online don't seem to have wires from the cap. If the sensor has failed it would explain why no warning lights. Alasdair

No plenty of bricks in the wall though.

Oh, now come on, considering how much has been spoken about the virtues of 1 pedal driving and the brakes never wear out because all but emergency braking effect can be achieved with regen, its not beyonds man's wit and skill is it to divert that energy created by regen in such cases where the battery is either too cold to accept the charge or the battery has SOC of over 90% to divert that surplus energy into a load bank or on cold days, direct it to internal heating elements in the car to warm the cabin. The car needs to be fully configured so that the driver does not have to become part of the car and spend time monitoring the parameters and altering their driving technique accordingly? That will lead to plenty of accidents occurring, for sure.

China have lots of policy accelerating EV adoption: https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0965856424002830 Current US administration had always been climate change deniers, he/they backed out of Paris agreement in the previous tenure and have done again this time. Therefore it is not a balanced view nor a good lead to follow. As mentioned just a few posts up, cars in general are expensive these days. EV are at about price parity to purchase. It is vastly cheaper per mile to drive EV charged with help of private parking spaces next to home. Ensure private properties are not taking up public area. This is going to be unpopular opinion, I personally think Japan has it right when it comes to car sizes and making sure streets are pleasant and clear from obstructions: https://www.parkingreformatlas.org/parking-reform-cases-1/japan's-proof-of-parking-rule-(shako-shomeisho)

Even Harry from Harry's garage is not too bright on EVs and how they work. I enjoyed his large glowing report on the Renault 5 as with Petrol Ped and most of the online car magazines comments on the R5 but Harry needs to understand the tech a bit better. He took out the R5 on a coldish day and with 93% battery and pointed out the reg was weak ish, duh. The combination of cold and such a cold battery and full battery where is the regen power going to go ? Dash actually warn you will not get full regen until battery under 90 %. Other than that great review and like many many have said the R5 seems to be the game changer for ICE to EVs so they are saying in numbers much as the R5 was fifty years ago along with the Alfasud and other smaller ICE cars for the general population.

Just noticed a facebook post from my local Skoda dealer advising of Elroq test drives between 28th February and 5th March Happy days...will arrange date and time tomorrow.

I think Harry has nailed the EV vs ICE car debate here I agree there should never have been a mandate to enforce the switchover. EV's definitely have a place, although hybrid, petrol and diesel do also and the ultimate choice ought to be with the consumer. The appetite for EV only appears to be muted outside the EU and UK it seems, and with the new administration in the US opting out of green energy targets will presumably be Stateside too? It would appear Toyota, Honda and Mazda may have been somewhat visionary in not rushing to embrace an EV only range. https://youtu.be/Vhi7zldGjBo?si=mAGzz3n8pzbqA5Cn As battery technology changes, which it might with solid state etc, then an EV might become an economically viable option for more individuals. There seems to be a fixation in the UK and across Europe that EV's should be the only option for a new car from 2030/2035 onwards which I've never agreed with. As ever he gives a very reasoned overview and his video is worth a watch if you have a spare 20 minutes or so (I tend to listen rather than watch in the car 😉)

My Karoq is now 14 months old. I come from a line of Skoda's but have had 4 Yeti's previously. The Karoq is obviously far more advanced for technology but doesn't have the bomb proof feel of the Yeti. I don't lke the angle of the drivers seat base in the Karoq and I don't like the second bounce when hitting bumps on a straight road, the car feels underdamped. I doubt I'll have another.

Laptop rotated clockwise 90°. Thanks. AG Falco

Here is a picture of these wheels on my car: -

partslink24.com does it, but not for free. Various short-term subscriptions are available though; £13.20 for 1 day is currently the cheapest option for UK. The parts lists are the same as via the various free ETKA clones, but more up to date. Includes RRP. VIN entry causes the relevant parts for that VIN to appear in normal black font with all the other ones greyed out. Another possibly handy service I've just noticed that they offer is a full list (csv file) of all the parts for a given VIN. Currently offered for £15 for 5 VINs-worth. Appears under the heading "Additional fee-based services" on their subscriptions page and is called "Parts data Lists".

A google search shows 1 or 2 Skoda dealers inviting people to enrol for a test drive on certain dates beginning last week of February..Not heard anything from my dealer yet and nothing on my dealers website regarding test drives for the Elroq.

Yes, this'd be good, if anyone knows...

The classic old old old old school window cleaning was vinegar and newspaper. Newspaper because it absorbs and doesn't drop fibres...and vinegar contains acetic acid which is a great surfactant that lifts grease away from the surface. Acids tend to be a little draggy on surfaces (and risks causing marring damage to clearcoat), which is why they tend to be used in certain scenarios or as last resort. Glass is one of the certain scenarios as it is much hardier. Windowlene contains acetic acid which is why its still a successful glass cleaner. All the more successful products will tend to base around an acid. For media, I've found waffle-weave microfibres tend to be really good - something like Rag Company "Dry me a river" are my go to but there are plenty of competitors. As far as contact washing - any brushes or sponges will lead to clearcoat damage over time as they are just too abbrasive. Best way is microfibre washmitt and while people will advocate a 2 bucket method (or 3 for a separate wheel bucket), I prefer one bucket with clean water (and grit guard in the bottom) and car shampoo in a pump spray to get it on the car. Spray it on, panel by panel, use the wash mitt, rinse the wash mitt in the clean bucket, then move on. Working from top to bottom.

The mechanism can get stuck. Try pressing gently on the flap as you hit the unlock button. It will probably take a few attempts before it unlocks. Once you get it unlocked and open, squirt some WD40 into the mechanism and work it a bit.

Good one, I think people tend to do either way; follow service intervals as officially recommended by dealer, by unofficial intervals recommended by the mechanics that work at dealer or just believe in god that mechanical parts in connection with eachother in an unpermissive environment has a magic fluid that solves all problems when parts interacts with one another within specs. Anyway, I tend to tell myself that "remember rbhelle, they all want to make some money on you, one way or another, how much is just a matter of time" 😁 Btw, I do remember that dealers also stated that "filled for life" was/is a thing... If I remember correct, axle oil on a 4x4 VW/skoda/audi bevelbox and rear diff is "filled for life", right?