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1. format SD (best max 32GB) under FAT32 2. unpack to root (metainfo2.txt and all the folders must be placed directly on SD, not in any folder) 3. insert SD card into the slot 4. enter Service Menu (long press MENU button)

I've just done PCP and paid off after the 14 day cooling of period. You don't even have to talk to anyone. After day 14 login to Skoda Finance, click on settlement figure and bank transfer the money across. Yes you keep all the benefits. (For me that was Deposit Contribution and Two Services.) There are some charges and a little interest and that came to around £350 for me on top of what I borrowed.

Go for agm and ofbeleven. The people saying you can't change the type are idiots. I went from efb to agm and there is a code for the battery type

From Clumber Park this evening 🐣

All check your PMs

I think this is the diagram, and I think no. 20 is the affected solenoid. https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ/SUP/851/8/867/867086 Feeling guilty, and since I had to digest the dinner, I walked towards the garage and pushed the car forward, to open the lid and look at the thing, unfortunately the phone with 11% battery decided flash was a no-no so no photos. But I did see what at the end I have a twin little hook thing on both sides, which if you push it it feels resistance, and then goes down, like being spring loaded like written above. So how to test the system .... well as the seats were down since I have inside a bicycle carrier I need to put together, I said "go inside the boot and see" Ok, so first I went to the menu and activate the function, then I go inside the boot and press the remote with nonchalance .... Nothing, weird, so I extended my arm and press the button on the lid, and the boot closes. Now I realize that the stupid but SMART car would not let me use the remote since the gearbox was in neutral ... so I had to slither in between the box of the carrier and the roller, towards the rear door and from there drop to the ground like on a SAS demonstration ... in that moment I did realize the true error in having a double steakburger with fried egg and extra cheddar before these activities ... oh well. Put the car in P and restarted the exercise. Now the remote worked flawlessly. When the door opens, there is a little "ZIG" and the hook goes down, for like a fraction of a second, if you blink you miss it. I left my finger on it and it feels goes down, at the same time you hear the solenoid. The hook looks like on a plastic pin. Most likely someone not very delicate broke yours, possibily pushing the roller blind without first pressing it down to make it release the catches. But before that, try to follow my method - sans burger, better - and see if you can hear the solenoid trying to do something ....

The only sign of oil leakage I can see is around the sump drain plug, the corrosion bubbling visible looks to be surface only, beneath the nominal paint cover and would be nowhere near perforation. The plug leakage could be caused by something as simple as the original seal and plug being reused on a service - or incorrect torquing of the drain plug. If the drain plug threaded insert has been damaged during a service, this might require sump replacement if the leakage is significant.

Skoda UK and Skoda Assist now haggling over who pays what. Hoping for a good outcome however car remains in bits at the dealership and there's no timescale plus may still be a charge to be paid.

Should anyone ever have the need to courier their DQ200 mechatronic unit for repair, I can confirm it's drained weight is a fraction over 10kg. Packaging would obviously increase the total. I've just sent mine off to ECU Testing at a cost of £32 ( declared <15kg ) which was for guaranteed 1pm next day + max insurance. Non-guaranteed delivery and lower insurance value price starts about £14.00

Petrol 4x4 for me. I have the L&K 265 saloon and no noises from the DCC. I previously had a FWD L&K 220 2017 version and the addition of snow tyres did help immensely in the winter. However the 4x4 is sure footed in all weathers we’ve had so far this year. The estate has a little more boot space than the saloon but not that different. Go to a dealer and compare. Economy is on a par with what you quoted for the Range Rover and the L&K is a comfy armchair that can occasionally tear your nose off if you are so inclined.

The actual manufacturers code of the battery is not critical, the only critical information when adapting a new battery to the BCM is type (AGM (fleece) or EFB) capacity (AH) and registering the change by altering the last digit of the existing battery serial number.

Air filter is changed couple months ago, this was happening before and after replacement. But I'll check it anyway.

The Electric busses / coaches are here and Chargers are in and going in and the Electric HGV and LGV,s are here and the facilities for charging are going in and are already in at various locations. Applications for Battery Storage Facilities keep getting knocked back at Council Planning Meetings in Scotland. These are absolutely necessary if the excess electricity that can be generated is to be used. There is just a crazy amount of electricity available in many regions of Scotland, some quite remote and yet the turbines are turned of as not wanted by the National Grid and there is no storage locally. No battery storage or used to produce hydrogen. Home - The Centre For Sustainable Road Freight.mhtml

Check now

If the very same servicing garage is to be trusted, then yes, the plugs were changed at 4 years.

£50 off is no where near it either. I reckon its worth £50 for scrap. Try https://www.trents.co.uk/ Might be worth an email as they seem to have a fair range of skoda/vw engines. Meant to add why a new engine? Is yours not repairable? Alasdair

Well, that appears to be more promising, appreciate it if you keep this updated on final outcome.

here what i find about skoda mk4 modifications via obdeleven one is my list of found modifications other is modifications for golf 8 that are part of them compatible with skoda obd skoda.docx Codierliste Golf 8 EN.pdf

Cheers for the confirmation, much appreciated. 👍🏼

We're supposed to be getting some here soon, but currently there is zero sign of any activity towards the power getting installed.

Sorry I'm lost as to what you mean. If the leak is just from an oil filter housing can't that part be repaired or is it new gaskets/seals aren't available, depends on what the material of the gasket/seal is but a replacement might be able to be fashioned (I don't know but someone who rebuilds engines would). Liquid style gaskets/seals and/or sealants have been used by themselves and in addition to the gasket/seal. The stuff you use has to be suitable for application and be done so that there's no excess to block or break away. ETA: the area or parts that need a gasket/seal and/or sealant have to be apart to make or apply a gasket/seal and/or sealant applied. (seems a bit odd to me you can't get or have made a gasket/seal but I don't know the situation) Easiest way might be to look at a parts diagram to see what oil filter housing is and how it's fixed to the engine and where and what gaskets/seals are used. Unless the filter housing part you're referring to is an integral part of the engine casting? You really need those that know about your particular engine, or research if this is a particular problem that for some reason is difficult to resolve. Diesel engines can leak like sieves, look at "workmen's" vans, where they pull or park up or even pull away from oil on the road, pavement, your drive or grass . . . Yet they still run and (hopefully) have MoTs.

I'd suggest looking at sensors in engine air intake as a possibility of being affected by rain - although they'd be downstream of the filter. Has the air filter ever been replaced?

Maybe not related but you do not mention the air filter and it being checked and clean and dry.

The good old days, reeking buses, just like Ann Gloag of Stage Coach,s old Berry Busses they used. London is not in Scotland though, and the population of Scotland is less than in London. London needs to have more Wind Farms, Solar, Nuclear, Gas Powered & Coal Fired power stations maybe, and then you can run CLEANER Busses from that energy. Maybe even more Oil Wells and Refineries. Electric Buses are now in Cities and on Routes and there are more coming. Not a recent vid.

Lovely this afternoon...........

It's perhaps worth mentioning that the "Settings" topic that you've posted an image of may not be found in the printed version of the Owner's Manual. That's certainly the case for my 2024-built Fabia Mk 4 and it's highlighted in my car's printed Manual that the "Setting" topic is only in the digital version. (It's easy to confirm that pressing the key-fob lock-button twice within 2 seconds actually does switch off the interior monitoring sensors.)

Mine still has maps dated 25.1, so January. S/W version is 1941 which means it’s not to do with your s/w update. I previous years I seem to recall a May release of mapping; we’ll see…

I was given a 'rule of thumb' budget estimate recently for simple panel repair and respray; the panel in question had some small dents but no buckles and no corrosion. The estimate was £300 per panel. There are roughly 10 panels on an Octy so 10 x £300 less 20%(?) for doing them all at once? You might be better off looking for another Octy and selling this one on.

You must have a mib1 card to be worried by the size. First mib2 were 16gb then Vag became aware that with growing cartography all of Europe wouldn't fit on a 16gb card, so with about two years notice they trailed the 32gb card. Hence the story of the zones to fit on the old 16gb mib2 cards. Mib1 they were 8gb but the CID is read by either.

I used glue for cars.. like for the window or body.. i dont know the name in english.. https://amzn.eu/d/jfcbc70

Clue bold and underscore.

Feel for you buddy, I would have hoped that all the excessive oil users would have been rooted out and repaired or replaced by now. Using 2 litres of oil in 1000 miles is definitely excessive. Our engine was replaced under manufacturer warranty when it was using a litre every 600 miles or so, other owners can no doubt tell of similar experiences. Keep a record of receipts for oil purchased, when you top it up and the quantity of oil you've had to use so that you can speak to warranty company from position of certainty, will be interesting to see their reaction and how they intend to resolve things for you, ideally it would be a replacement engine but as Ootohere has written, that could be a hard battle.

Wait and see what quality the first one is. I'd definitely have two (for each wheel being swapped if rotating a set of four wheels and tyres on the car. I was bought one by a friend and ordered a second that had rough knurling that could scratch the bolt holes on the wheels and then a set of two much better quality (and heavier) set of two (in second photo). Toi save the hassle and knock-on effects of having the back problem I'd have bought a set of 20 if required! I disliked (to be polite) VW before this issue and after it (and VWŠkoda UK cambelt con) cemented my dislike. ☹️

Forgot the vacuum cleaner, but took along a pal to help with unscrewing the lock ring that holds the pump in (two hammers opposite sides of the ring 'turrets'). Wouldn't have got it off on my own, I think. Also wouldn't have got the fuel hoses off, cos I hadn't brought my glasses and couldn't see how the latch worked. He did. Anyway, having ordered the business part of the pump from GSF, but not yet collected, we went to the car to eyeball the pump, to see how easy it would be to fit just the above 'fuel pump swirl pot' section as opposed to an entire pump assembly (half the price for just the pump). Just before we left, it occurred to me that another thing to check whilst in there would be the connections to the pump motor itself (not the external 4-way loom connector, but internal spade connections. Pic of similar connections stolen from an ebay ad for an aftermarket pump: One was nice and tight, just a plain male/female 1/4" spade, the other was one of the flag type connectors with a latch so it can't come off. It hadn't come off, but it was as loose as a goose, and there was no sign of the usual 'fresh metal scrape' you get when you disconnect a good one; all dull metal. Squeezed each side of the receptacle with some little pliers, reassembled everything. Fixed. 😁

This thing is going pretty well. Slackened the clutch cable some more and that's stopped it slipping. Had it up in Enniskillen Easter Monday for a car show, good mix of driving. Had changed coolant and adjusted the timing a little so it was more a shakedown run than anything. Fairly packed, weather was horrid so made it a bit of a wash. Some nice stuff at it. Just the weather put a damper on it. Filled up with some e5 since I was up north and got 50mpg on the way back. Very surprised. Seems to be going well, really hoping it'll do goodwood in a few weeks. Installed an Oil pressure gauge too. Fixed up some wiring to the spotlamps aswell. Only thing I'd like to get sorted is the starter but we'll have to see.

Bit more work done. Repaired the foglamps, Cleaned up the interior and dyed the carpets. And got a strut brace for it. Also got a replacement (used) battery for free. Better job than the one in it so. Still leaking oil, think I've traced it to a sandwich plate for the oil temp sensor. Driving well, majority of my list is already done. Nothing stopping me driving it now really. Bit better on fuel seemingly with the new caliper on.

Springs and Shocks all replaced with Bilsteins, also had the drop links done at the same time. The bushes were all in good condition, so were fine. Car is so much better now. I've done around 500 miles, including narrow country roads and motorway work. It is so much more stable under braking, cornering and general handling, who would have thought it! Worth spending the money.

A couple of pointers on this: 1) You do need VCDS, but you can also code in new batteries with ODBEleven as well. 2) I cannot stress how much of a bad thing using the rip/off VCDS 12.x software is. It was pirated software that was cracked from Ross-Tech and if you really care for your Skoda, I highly recommend not touching that software as you don't know what its doing to your car. Please...please...please don't support dodgy software pirates, as it supports illegal activities and has the potential to brick your car. 3) For those of you who are running things on a budget, you can get a basic dongle from 51 UKP from ODBEleven; this is not expensive and that pays back for itself after the first use.

A quick update on this. Booked the car in at a reputable indy for a coolant change and a check of the expansion tank for the silica bag. I was quoted around £170 which included the replacement of the expansion tank if it was found to contain the silica bag. Received a phone call a couple of hours after dropping off to say that they had done a test of the coolant and found that it’s well within the operating range. In addition they said there was no silica bag present (MY20 car) or any signs of contaminants in the coolant. I was advised that there was no need to replace the coolant and it’d be a waste of money although they were still happy to proceed if I wanted. I chose not to go ahead as, bar the noticeable colour difference, there is no evidence to warrant the change. All the fluid levels are checked regularly so I’ll follow up if there are any significant changes.

until the moment it exploooooods 😁😆

I think the release levers you are referring are the ones to drop the seats. There is not button, lever or command to manually activate the retraction, only an option to enable/disable in the menu, I think it was in car settings, I can check next time I am with the car, same as in the luggage compartment. I have this feature but I actually disabled it because it snaps/rolls back quite sharply and I am concerned it will not last//, I am a bit smoother in rolling the thing back ... call me a fool, but I fear the stupid roller costs an arm and a leg....

Test drove the new Y (launch edition) today at Everything Electric show. Lovely colour. But not a fan of new DLR's. Largely same car inside, except a few excellent minor changes: front nose camera, much better damped suspension, ventilated seats and rear screen.

Probably should add. Wash, decontamination and paint correction £350 Ceramic £150

Another shout out to Pete. I took my Roomster into my local garage thinking it was the wiring loom but he said it was the motor and Skoda stopped selling the part last year. Came across this forum and messaged Pete. Quick as a flash, he posted a fixed one to me. Took the door card off using a Youtube video, replaced the motor, worked straightaway, posted the old one back. Top marks, saved me a load of chew and a load of cash. Thanks Pete.

Hello @langhede , that's a good question, but the answer depends on which 6Q1959801 you mean. The crucial information is contained in the letter after the core 9-character part number. Older Mk1 Fabias (pre-facelift) used 6Q1959801A in LHD cars, 6Q2959802A in RHD. Mk2 Fabias, from around 2008, went back to a 6Q... part number, but this time the end letter is F/G/H/J. The 6Q1959801A and 6Q2959802A have three connectors, in contrast to the two on a 6Y... motor. They are involved in mirror control, the reason for the third connector. They also use two-wire CAN for communication connected to the convenience bus. The 6Y...motors use LIN, single-wire comms with (only) their passenger side counterpart (and rear motors if fitted). No involvement in mirror control. The later ones (2008> approx), 6Q....F, etc, use a single 16-way connector. Also LIN-connected only to other window motors. No involvement in mirror control. I will try to add some photos later today, when I have some more time. Edit: see below. Note: the character sequences I've written in brackets relate the last line of the part number labels to the model that they are from/for. If you mismatch these, despite having matched the main VW group part number, correct function isn't guaranteed. Numbers in orange are the number of ways in each loom connector, not all will have wires in. I also have some advice on pitfalls to avoid if trying to purchase on the secondhand market, which I will do as a separate post later. Executive summary: beware of sellers who over-generalise applicability, and especially any that seem to have scratched out characters on the part number label.

+10 for the UK offering. Its actually starting to look like Eibach Pro-Kit (to resolve the crimes against wheelarch-gaps) and OE Monroe with DCC Slider Mod would be the optimum setup...I've already tagged Aperture in one thread; he'll get annoyed if I do it again...

At this point probably, but I’m well underway now! the only thing I wish I started with was a sportline 280 estate with a sunroof - as retrofitting the pano roof and 4wd system is a pain in the ass (but not impossible)

Ooh I also changed the cam belt and water pump! 🤣

Well in the end going from one broken spring this turned into a long old job! As I kept finding worn parts I kept ordering them. I should have just dismantled all the front suspension checked everything and ordered all I needed in one go! Not unexpectedly I found one the top spring mounting was broken and decide to change both as I replacing both springs and dampers. Then found one of the lower ball joints while it might have passed an MOT was quite loose, so changed both. Found play in one of the drop link joints so changed both! The nearside track rod end had play so changed both! The inner track rod ends no longer hold themselves up but haven't got any noticeable play so have left them for now. A job for next year maybe? Anyway the car now drives much better doesn't pull slightly to the right anymore and the suspension feels stiffer and doesn't have the wallowing feeling over undulating surfaces.