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Big day planned for tomorrow. Refurbed injectors and a much lower-mileage high-pressure fuel pump getting swapped in, I hope. Also the cam follower for the HPFP, unless the original looks much better than expected for nigh-on 160k miles. The company that cleaned and tested the replacement injectors very helpfully also changed the PTFE seals and the o-rings at the top, so should be reasonably idiot-proof to fit. 🙂 Anyone swapped out these items? HPFP has to come off to get injector rail out, so looked into that too, and picked up a far lower mileage one from ebay, for not a lot of money. Apparently the cam follower can get worn to the point of perforating, so I picked up a Febi one of those for not much over £20 via amazon.

Hi, I just take it out and drop the new one in. On the very 2 or 3 first times I did it, It emptied it en refilled. But I finally assumed that Skoda mechanics by dealer would absolutely not waste their time this way. This is why I ended up doing this way, and do it the simplest way now. Regarding priming process, I don't use VCDS. I do it the "old way": 1) Set contact ON for 10s to let the fuel pump raise pressure. 2) Set contact OFF for 15s to let pressure drop 3) Repeat steps 1 & 2 4 to 5 times 4) Start engine and feather throttle up to 2000-2200 rpm for 40-50s to get rid of potential remaining bubbles in the fuel injection circuit I've proceeded this way about 8 times. Never had a problem.

All done for info 200 quid for both sides

After being pestered by my Daughter for the need to charge a phone in the back seats of the car. I thought I would go OEM and fit the rear USB sockets in the centre console as my model of car didn't have them. Parts needed; I ordered these from www.skoda-parts.com, it took 1 week to deliver the parts from Europe. The only thing I didn't order from Skoda was the actual USB unit, as it worked out too expensive, it was £45 for the usb and extra for the cable. I got this from aliexpress instead as it worked out around £20 with shipping. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000454430275.html?spm=a2g0o.search0302.0.0.48f2d710S9U8kD&algo_pvid=d763b097-fa97-4d9d-84fc-cabfb2587725&algo_expid=d763b097-fa97-4d9d-84fc-cabfb2587725-26&btsid=0b0a555a16212796060048113e0e8c&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_ These are the parts I ordered from Skoda parts. 5E0 863 284 D 9B9 Storage Compartment - Rear Škoda 1 × 21,84 EUR 5E0 863 229 9B9 Cover left Škoda 1 × 0,53 EUR 5E0 863 230 9B9 Cover Right Škoda 1 × 0,53 EUR 5E0 857 346 A 9B9 Cover Škoda 1 × 7,49 EUR 5E0 857 289 F 9B9 Center Tunnel Cover Škoda 1 × 11,09 EUR POST14.00 Shipping 1 × 16,80 EUR Total price incl. shipping and VAT 58,28 EUR The only tools i needed was a Torx tx20 bit and the ratchet to put it in. Small flat screwdriver to help remove the 12v cigarette lighter socket. A plastic trim remover might also help, but never needed one. A lighter socket removal tool would probably help too as I had to press the tabs in quite a bit, to get the socket out. So I first started off in the rear of the car moving the front seat forward to give me more room to work in, this is how it looked originally. First I removed the ashtray, just open it up, and give it a gentle pull towards you, it should unclip nice and easy. There is an area for an LED at the back of the ashtray which i'm guessing is used in some models but not in mine. Next up put your hands in the hole where the ashtray was up towards the rear vents, just give them a gentle push from behind and they will pop out, put these to one side. Next up remove the 4 torx screws shown in the following picture. Then again I just pulled the trim part towards me, you may use you trim removal tool there are two raised parts which clip in near the bottom shown in the picture. Next up round to the front seat, move the seat back as far as you can just to give you more room to work in. The next thing i did was to pull the bottom trim down this just need a gentle pull downwards and it pops out. again just to give a bit more space to work in. (be careful if left in place when sliding the chair forward as it can get caught up). Following that time to remove the cigarette socket, (It may be a good idea to remove the fuse or take the battery wire off as this socket stays live when the car is off and if you slip with the screwdriver may cause a short). There are two small black tabs near the top which need pressing in to allow the cigarette socket to out of the black housing. I had to press them in up to the point I thought I was going to break something I ended up bending the metal slightly but bent it back before I replaced the socket. So maybe the removal tool is the easier option. Next you want to unplug the socket from the wiring, and remove the black plastic ring. The loom you get with the USB plugs, just plug between the cigarette lighter plug and socket. so you can now plug in the loom to the car wiring and pull the red plug and wire down through the hole. and for now out of lower trim that was removed. The black plastic ring can go back over the new plug. And the cigarette socket can be plugged back in. I left it out of the trim for time being until i could test the usb. After this i fed the wire with the red plug for the USB unit back past the inside of the seat. Then moved into the back of the car, moving the seat forward to allow access. This bit was quite fiddly as my hands are quite large, I fed the wire up with my right hand and had my left hand in the hole where the ashtray was as far forward as it could go under the air vent pipe. it took a couple of tries but eventually felt the wire and managed to pull it through. out of the rear trim. You can see in the picture where it is going up into the trim (it looks like it is looped around the chair but it isn't I haven't pulled it taught yet). Then it was time to screw the new trim piece in put it back making sure it clicks in place then using the 4 torx screws that were removed screw them back in. Next up I clicked the USB unit into the small trim piece, it only goes one way and the aliexpress unit was a perfect fit, I could now plug the red plug into the unit and test it worked.! ....It does. So carrying on I routed the wire where I thought it should go, there was a small hook on the left hand side so used that. and clicked the second trim piece into place. the blanking pieces were next they were straight forward and only go in one way. And the vents were next make sure the vent pipe is seated right as it is loose in there and I had moved it when squeezing my hand in there. These just pushed straight back in make sure you hear them click in place. Also the new smaller Ashtray just clicks in the same as before. Following this i tucked the wire up inside the centre console, and clipped the front piece of trim back in place again it just clips in place nothing too awkward. and pushed the black clip and cigarette socket back into place. The last picture looks patchy its because i had just wiped my greasy fingerprints off of it.!! And Voila one happy Daughter can now charge her phone in the back of the car.

Man this is getting boring. Can people please provide some sort of evidence of what Skoda .uk and elsewhere (e.g; .dk, .de, .com) have stated with either screenshots, non self identifying emails, https links etc

If it's all still working fine today, you'll be alright. These forums exist for questions like that! Most of the less-waterproofed electronics are nice and high in the engine bay, along with the intake - lower lip of the bumper is fine. At that level I doubt you were even up to the exhaust, and remember most of the stuff lower down is designed to be waterproof with you hitting puddles with a lot more force at 60mph. The only real damage you can do in your situation would be to get water onto a hot turbo or hot brakes - that can cause some issues. Next time you wash the car, I'd suggest just doing the underside too - there might have been oil, fuel or whatever in the water, and it would be nice to take that off. I do the same thing in winter if there has been salt on the roads. I remember the first time I drove through a similar level of water a few years ago in my Leon - I was so worried I even went back to check where the water came up to! I wouldn't make a habit of going into water, as it's always better not to, but occasionally and to the level you did - you'll be absolutely fine.

Tonight's Strawberry Moon & sunset.......... https://www.skyatnightmagazine.com/news/strawberry-moon-2025-lowest

Yes. It's literally a few comments above.

Aggressive. ? Or asking for the source of information that is now possibly online for ever, and can become a factoid.

This is absolutely incredible. It's not that we don't agree with your comment - we are simply asking (for the fifth, or sixth time now) where you got this information from, as it is contrary to what we otherwise know. I'm not entirely sure where the aggression is, if I'm honest, and I think this has been clarified about three times. As you seem to be having a hard time understanding, let me put it another way - @super717 - "I've been told to inspect my DQ200 every 20k, and service it every 40k" @Ootohere @OccyVRS - "That's interesting, where did you hear this?" @super717 - "If you don't agree with me, ask for the post to be taken down" @Ootohere @OccyVRS - "Oh, no no, we're just asking where you were told this, that's all!" @Gammyleg - "Yeah, I've found this on my box so you might be right, but you can't check the oil level" @Ootohere @OccyVRS - "Agreed. OP, who told you this?" @super717 - "Keyboard warriors, aggression, it's up to people to read someones random claims and take action" I don't understand how it can be this difficult. I give up.

I really would like to know which Oil Producer or Retailer gave the reply to the OP about Service Intervals? Very often there are other forums that will quote from Briskoda posts. It is fair enough advice so it would be good to know who gave the advice that VW Group who were the biggest manufacturers in the world do not give. They used Synthetic oil until the issue they first ignored could be ignored no longer and the did a Global recall but excluded Europe until 2 years later. There are Autobox Specialists telling owners to ignore VW Group. Good if an oil company is as well. Amazingly the DQ381 Service Regime stays as they first set out. The time will come when they will admit they have co-cked up with these.

@Gammyleg exactly, it's not possible. FWIW, I like to think that anyone TVS Engineering is worth mentioning the word DSG to. Given that it is a dry clutch gearbox, I would think changing the oil around 80k-100k miles would seem sensible, depending on use. That's a minimum of twice a wet clutch box interval, which seems reasonable. I'm just a bit confused at why OP is taking offence at someone asking for the source of their information, whilst also thinking you can check the oil level on a DSG gearbox. There's absolutely nothing wrong with posting stuff like this @super717, however I think it's important to make sure the information is correct/reputable. These forums are a wealth of information, but I remember a time when I would have taken a post like this as gospel - so it's important things are correct, or at least checked. I don't think @Ootohere was asking anything aside from where you got the 20k service information, which BTW, you still haven't given?

I've no idea how you can check DQ200 fluid levels as there is no dipstick for either transmission or the mechatronic. The only way would be to drain them, after which you might as well replace with fresh oil. Skoda won't be interested in doing anything under a service agreement because it isn't included. A good Indy would be best as long as they know what they're doing. FYI my mech oil was brown sludge when it got changed at 180k miles so i'd certainly recommend getting it done at reasonable intervals, say every 40 to 60k.

'Central Government', Westminster / UK Government, so this is England once again. The place that needs the billions spending on Nuclear so that they do not have anything like happened in Spain. The Government in Scotland might well miss targets and have to modify targets, maybe on their emissions and government and local authority vehicles. That would be them, and not the Central Government though.

Despite all the pressures being brought to bear on people switching over to electric vehicles both for the private and also the corporate markets, the government once again clearly demonstrating that there is a two tier system in place, one for us and another for them. Instead of leading from the front, which would be the right way to go (don't ask others to do what you are not/cannot do yourself), they have fallen way behind their own targets for the 7,116 cars and vans in their own fleets. So much for their net-zero policy, what next? Government fails to meet its own EV fleet targets despite pressuring drivers to switch | Regit

Probably a small stone or piece of grit that caused the groove. It will be long gone now. I doubt it will cause any problems with brakes and should wear out eventually. Alasdair

I understand exactly why you were using M to hold it in gear - as I said, I'm not too sure what the issue with doing this is. TVS is a good benchmark for DSG stuff. YMMV (your mileage may vary), but anywhere that's a TVS dealer is usually worth a punt.

The battery "Changing" advice in my 2024 Fabia's Owner's Manual reads as follows: Have the replacement carried out by a specialist garage. The new 12V battery must have the same specifications as the original battery. (My Manual defines a specialist garage as "a workshop that carries out specialist service operations for Skoda vehicles. A specialist garage can be both a Skoda Authorised workshop or Skoda Partner who is authorised to proved services as well as an independent workshop"). The image below is of the UK-nearside part of the engine compartment of a Fabia Mk 4 with 1.0litre motor. I've green-arrowed the earth-point and an (easily) removable protective cover over the battery's positive terminal is red-arrowed.

It's not so much the message you're giving, but more where that message is from. The DQ200 is sealed for life, but it isn't. As @Ootohere has said, both the box and MCU are serviceable. Without wishing to make one of the sweeping statements I advocate against, I would agree that inspecting the oil on a DQ200 every 20,000 miles is absolute rubbish. The reason these boxes don't 'need' a fluid change is because, unlike the wet clutch boxes, these have a dry clutch pack. They aren't submerged in the oil, so there isn't anything getting in the oil, so there's nothing really to inspect. The recommendation for all wet clutch DSG boxes is a fluid (and filter, cough) change every 40k miles, with the DQ381 being at 80k (although most, including myself, choose to do it at 40k). I find it hard to believe that anyone would suggest checking a DQ200 at half the interval for a DQ500! As above, the interval for Haldex systems (be it AWD, LSD, etc) is 20-30k depending on the application, and they're a totally different ball game. There is no recommended interval for DQ200 boxes. If you have an issue with it, do the service. If it's working and below 100k ish, leave it alone - there's nothing to be gained.

When do you ear this 'clunk'? Is it when you precisely lift your foot off the brake pedal, or when you start pressing the gas pedal and exactly when the brakes disengage? If it's the 2nd option, it may be related to the factory setting of the auto hold. I had modified it with VCDS to set the release of the brakes to 'Early' instead of 'Normal'. This enables smoother start and also avoids similar 'clunks' or 'creakings', when the car starts moving with brakes still on with the 'Normal' setting.

Just phoned Skoda for service record, system wasnt working correctly but he sent me screenshots. Said it has a very good history.

I misunderstood, a bit. Didn't realise you were looking for a mk1 with the most possible issues. 😆 Check chain timing and radiator fan function as priorities, I suggest. Does/did it have A/C? I certainly wouldn't expect engine cover or ECU to be particularly hot, in normal working.

It is said by some that it was earlier ones, and things are overblown. We will not know if really anything since 2022 is ok for 5 years until 2027. Same with 2025 vehicles with a DQ381 out of warranty, 2028 on is when we find out. Best get an extended 4 or 5 year warranty before the car is first registered if the car is to be kept.. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/530642-gearbox-in-emergency-mode Simply clever would be VW / Skoda putting an 8 year / 100,000 mile warranty on a DSG with a 80,000 mile service regime.

@OccyVRS yes precisely it is a project car. He does not want all the bells and whistles with it. The interior of the car is almost mint condition well that is after we washed and dried the seats etc. The car definitely wasn't looked after. We paid £150 for it so basically scrap value. I don't see the jobs that need doing big jobs apart from if I need to do the steering rack as that the subframe off or at least dropped. Mostly everything else is just a little time needed . Things like paint can be skipped as not really needed. It's more to fix the shocking repair jobs one of the previous keepers done. As he is doing his mechanics courses in collage he is getting extra training with doing his own car plus the old school tips and tricks I will teach him.lol I don't know if that is a good or bad point tbh. We calculated this morning to get the car up and working and safe with a fresh MOT and insured would cost about £700 not Inc road tax , and about 6-7 month to get there time depending on when we are both free to do it plus weather. But be warned I may be on here asking a few questions. 🤣

If anyone knows for sure what you need it’ll be @ApertureS

I believe the boot length with seats folded is 1700mm which is around 5’6””. Be aware that the rear seats don’t fold completely flat so you would also have to come up with a way to get a flat surface (especially so without the dual floor option)…

interesting, I have a brand new 2.0 TDI DSG arriving in 6 weeks (I assume with the DQ381) do you know if these boxes still have the same flaws or have they had a big update?

I think you're right, Party B. Plod have form for abusing CCTV themselves. Misuse of CCTV is normally unlawful as opposed to illegal so plod won't get involved and will leave it to the regulator the ICO. The ICO in turn are completely overwhelmed and are unlikely to investigate anything that isn't a very serious breach of the legislation. So really to some extent you can do what you like but pointing the camera at a neighbours bedroom IS illegal and plod will step in.

If you let me know reg or VIN, I can look up what was fitted at factory.

Thanks to everybody here. Upgraded my version from 464->469->761->1790 and I went from 30% change wireless working to 100%. Thank you so much guys!

Its 2021, private. Quite cheap (5k under anything from trade). As far as I understand it had some sort of extended warranty. How to check for VAQ diff? I will be doing a full service as soon as I will get the car anyway (local friendly garage). I thought long about it, and I'm leaning towards the fact that it has been done already, rather than expect dealer to fix it if it goes (its always a battle with them). Im curious if it has been done, does it carry any warranty (for not original owner?) ?

im some cases look at the manufacturer marking. The original fit skoda windscreen will either have VW AG marking or the Skoda badge. If a windscreen has been replaced by a company such as autoglass they 99% of the time wont use an OEM screen, just one which is of equal quality so the branding will be different. Also in some cases you can see small lines on the windscreen (I know this was the case with a mondeo I had with a heated front windscreen)

The reading will be a good enough reading point unless a connection(s) or cable(s) between the battery terminal post and negative point you use are dirty/contaminated or not fully secure. If you are trying to establish loss or drop then this missing bit might be important, what are you measuring for?

Thanks, it may be silly from a point of view of somebody who is (a lot more) technical. And it’s the first time that this city is this underwater. So, in principle, if all is good and car drove without any issue after this, it all should be ok. As far as have seen, water was just up the lower lip of the front bumper. Thanks!

If you're not sure of something, then it's not a silly question.

If anybody wants to check, edit and batch manage album art cover to be embedded into the file I suggest using Mp3Tag editor from mp3tag.de

Absolutely! That is why you don't want to involve plod as they are not up on all this. They have far more important and urgent things to do and have to keep up on the ever-changing criminal laws. Also, this is a shifting quagmire and can be situational. What was right yesterday isn't today, but might be tomorrow. I did come across a case where Person A's CCTV recorded over Person B's front garden. Person B's car was broken into/damaged, and Person A's CCTV video was used to secure a conviction. Followed a couple of weeks after the conviction by a Solicitors letter from Person B demanding that Person A's cameras do NOT cover any of Person B's garden..... Allegedly a True Story™ (because I can't find the source)

PM

It was Horton Skoda in Lincoln mate.

I'm not sure if i'm understanding this thread correctly... Has the timing chain actually gone and caused further engine damage? Quite an important detail missing here. I'd expect to pay anywhere in the region of £2,000-£5,000 to repair the aftermath of a failed timing chain. But just to get it replaced that's absurd.

Its going to be either the flap motor that has failed or (and lets hope it isn't) - the silica bag of doom has split in the coolant header tank and blocked your heater matrix. Can you show us a picture of the header tank (if its brown and sluggy, then this is what has happened and you need several coolant flushes to clean all this out). Can you also arrange to get a scan of your car by somebody who has a VCDS/ODBEleven system please?

According to the HonestJohn site, there was a Mk3 1.4 125ps S spec version on sale until Nov 2018, but they appear to be pretty rare. However, when I was looking for a Superb or Passat (cousins!) in a hurry in 2021 (when used car market had not yet recovered from Covid disruptions) I saw a Passat '1.4 ACT' for sale on AutoTrader but spotted that in the Performance details, it was showing as 123bhp (i.e. TSI, non-ACT). The salesman assured me that it was an ACT but said that the Performance figures were automatically supplied by AT from the car's registration. In that case, I pointed out, there was an obvious discrepency! A couple of weeks later, the 'ACT' was dropped from the listing heading... (I had no reason to suspect a deliberate deception from the salesman).

Re soft vs hard compound tyres and road noise Searching 'are softer tyres quieter' on googl. .......... just three separate examples People also ask Are softer tires quieter? What kind of rubber the tire is made of: Softer rubber will make less noise, but it also tends to wear out faster. Harder rubber will be quieter, but it can make for a bumpier ride........... It is the friction between the road and the tyre that causes the noise. Generally speaking, a harder compound tyre will cause less friction than a softer one, making it quieter. There is now an extensive range of noise-reducing tyres available across such brands as Bridgestone, Pirelli, Sumitomo and Falken.......... Generally, softer tyres tend to be quieter, but they also wear out faster. The friction between the tyre and the road is what causes noise, and softer tyres have more friction, leading to a quieter ride on imperfect surfaces. However, this increased friction also means they'll need to be replaced sooner than harder tyres............ How ............ just how can such contradicting crap get written. I give up.....

sent me a pm, i have the correct update for it.

@sessions thank you so much for sharing, I just followed your guide, and loved the images, made some things a lot easier. Buying the stuff from Skoda Parts was no problem, it was a bit more expensive, but so is everything. The thing that actually took most of my time was that damn cigarete plug. I wan't to a carshop to buy a lighter socket removal tool, but they don't have it. I guess having such a tool would make it take like 2 minuttes to change it, and not being afraid of breaking the lighter socket. I bend it a bit, so it can be a bit hard to put something into it, but I don't need it anymore. I have 3 usb chargers now Should have cleaned my car before taking a photo

https://www.skoda-parts.com/online-store.html

I got all of the parts from: https://www.skoda-parts.com/online-store.html except the Ali Express item. I found all of the items were roughly the same price as when the thread was first posted. If you are going to do it one point I didn’t fully get was that the lighter comes out first and then the black surround comes out second. Also I managed to partly break the plastic clips when removing the lighter and so it might be worth considering adding one of these to the original order (https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/6y09193419b9-expansion-tube-14288.html). It’s a ridiculous amount for what it is but turns out to a 5-% of the cost of buying a lighter removal tool.

Hi , My 2019 Skoda Superb has the dq200 gearbox with the sealed for life oil regime.I have received a written reply from an oil company re service intervals.They state it's a sealed for life unit but suggest that the oil could / should be changed between 40,000 / 100,000 thousand mile. However , they state that other companies that use the dq200 gearbox recommend that the oil is inspected ever 20,000 miles ! Not sure if non VAG companies use that gearbox ( dq200 ) but by implementation that other brands VW may check the levels at a service intervals. Will keep the forum informed re any information found.

Hi , All I am trying to do is keep fellow forum members up to date re our cars service requirements. If you don't agree with my finding that's up to you but all I can report what information I have been given.