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One I forgot from July.

Courtesy of my passenger yesterday. Still going strong.

Don't talk daft... We are many many years from that being reality believe me... It's part of my day job.

Don't forget the wealth divide? In 2024, the highest income quintiles had the largest proportion of adults being main car drivers with 67% of adults in households in the second highest income quintile and 66% of adults in households in the highest income quintile. This compares to adults in households in the lowest income quintile where 41% were a main car driver. Around 32% of adults in households in the lowest income quintile had no car access, this compares to 12% of adults in adults in the highest income quintile.

More photos And some more

After a 2 year hiatus in an Audi A4, I have taken delivery of my new Skoda Elroq 60 in Edition spec. Really pleased with it. I got it through a scheme at work and the price I pay includes the Ohme home charger and installation, tax, insurance, servicing and tyres. Looking forward to our first mini-break in it during November.

Thanks Gav, I'll not lie, it's been an emotional couple of days knowing she was going, testament I think to the fact that I'd done more on the car than anything else prior, and it's been a real labour of love. I'll keep the thread updated with any pics of the car I get as time goes by. I would like to say thank you to all of you who've commented, contributed etc, these positive comments are more impactful that you'd ever know. Much love.x

It's very short sighted to pass your driving test in an automatic as one day you could find yourself needing to drive a car or van that's a manual. Public transport in rural areas is poor and you will need to drive a car. In London public transport is good, well not this week as the tubes are on strike. If young people are choosing not to get a driving licence why is the waiting list for driving tests so long?

No doubt there will also be some with solar panels and battery storage,that get paid by the electricity company for charging, that will buy a fleet of Teslas and sign up to be part of the Robotaxi system.

No one is going to give you an answer about structural damage based off a (no offence meant buddy) shaky phone camera video shot in the dark by flash light, moving around the outside of the vehicle. If there is structural damage, it’s deeper in and too difficult assess without actually looking at the vehicle.

The vehicle is maintained properly and running well because of it. Peace of mind and contentment is all the silver lining needed. IMO anyway!!

Have you noticed there is a world & UK outside Chelmsford. You bought a Kodiaq. Job done, fill her up and off you can go, many miles, then filler her up.

But that still requires the ability to park your car off the road and within reach of a available 13A socket which is a luxury that still huge amounts of people do not enjoy, and of course it takes far longer to charge on a 13A lead true?

Beware these Pirellis too. I have had previoulsy 3 sets of Scorpion Verdes and they all started to make noise when the wear markings were almost reached. Probably made on puropse.

If you mean the icon for driver's door open does not appear when the drivers door is open, then this is the first sign of the microswitch in the lock is failing. In my own case it only happens when the driver's door is facing the sun in hot weather and works again when you drive or it cools down An auto electrician confirmed the diagnostics and said he has changed the locks on many variants, especially Audi A3. It is expensive in labour to replace the lock as everything in the door must be taken out to gain access to remove the lock, and then put back again. About 4 hours or more - plus the cost of a new lock. A small warning. Because the door being opened is not recognised, the door will self lock again after a few minutes so always have the ignition key in your pocket. Leaving the key in the ignition without starting the car can lock your key in the car. However, there is another cause which you should investigate first. Check the wiring in the rubber tube between the body and the driver's door. Broken wires are common, including the wire from the door lock's microswitch. Also, remote control problems and those of locking/unlocking of other doors are often caused by broken wires in this elephant's trunk.

Quick update: car is back with me and so far so good. The garage could not pinpoint the issue as they did not have an electrical expert, fortunately managed to find a good mechanic after a lot of searching online. Main issue was oxidation in some of the connectors leading to increased resistance. A secondary issue (which may not have caused this issue but needed resolving) was battery charging at a lower voltage than it should due to battery adaptation not being updated when battery was changed.

We went out to try to spot the Eclipse earlier although unfortunately it was entirely clouded over when the Eclipse was at it's peak (7:33pm). The Eastern Sky was a beautiful pink just after sunset though. Whilst driving home we spotted the clouds had cleared and a partial Eclipse was visible 👍 Not a bad Sunset either 👍

I take it then that once again you did not watch the video where Barrie actually proved the fake sales on Autotrader, I have no idea how much other proof you need. Those links you provided are of course not going to rock the boat for obvious reasons.

Another 1 post newbie? An Enyaq would not be having a second service at 2 years it would be due it's first.

It's an Enyaq, full EV.

I think the OP is asking about Hybrid EV traction battery - not the 12V starter/hotel battery.

Update time As you know I was talking about the possibility of the Fabia finding a new home, but before that I needed to get the final mapping sorted so that it was at least set up properly for any prospective new owner. I went back to Performance Torque in nearby Wombourne, and Will (the owner) remembered the car from back when he did the initial base mapping. I discussed the fact that the car was going to be sold and we agreed for him to set the car up on not too an aggressive a set up, to make sure it was going to be as nice and reliable as possible, and not just set up for headline figures. A couple of days later I get the call to say the car is done. With the larger injectors the car was still making more power than the 300bhp, but with the downside of much greater smoke levels, so in the interest of not being a complete unsociable animal, he settled at 2.0 bar of boost and the amount of 300.6 bhp. I'm made up that the car made a number starting with a 3, and that it was at such a conservative boost level. Kind of proved the concept right I had in my mind when building the engine. End result is a car that is very fast indeed, with nearly 400lb/ft of torque it just gathers pace very, very quickly indeed. The drive back from mapping was an emotional bitter sweet journey as a few days before I had agreed a deal to sell the car to a friend who had previously bought my classic 1969 Mk2 Austin Mini from me, so I know above all else the car is going to a good home. The Fabia will be joining his other cars in his eclectic collection such as GT3 RS, Audi R8, Escort Cosworth, Numerous 306 GTI-6's and will lead a pampered life within his heated garage, much like it has done with me for all these years. So today I waved goodbye to her. Time now to focus on getting my Mercedes W124 concours restoration back underway and try not to mourn the passing of Daffodil too much.

Dive shaft stripped its splines? Common on some other VAG's. It would have exactly those symptoms. Sometimes accompanied by a grating noise but sometimes just put in in gear - no drive.

Presume you mean 1K RPM - Not 10K!

Perfect. I've used ASM several times and have no reason to distrust their info on anything I've bought. Good find! You may be able to shave off a few quid if you can find same item on their website instead of going through ebay.

Sounds like the relay within the motor module is doing the clicking, which should result in rotation, so I think it's falsely (or accurately) sensing an overload/overcurrent condition. The black rubber radial seal around the white cog sometimes gets extremely stiff, so it could just about be that, but I suspect it's more likely the result of contact burnout on that relay within the motor. Probably most economic to try a cheap secondhand replacement like this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/316982998532 I could inspect the original for you and replace that relay and anything else that looks suspect, if you wish. I'll start a private chat with you, because you lack sufficient posts (20) to start a conversation, I think.

It is young people choosing not to get a driving licence in think that will be the telling factor. The youngsters in my family are not getting manual gearbox licences ie only can drive autos. Covid had a big hit particular on number of licences in the under 25 age group. Just going to be no reason to have a driving licence next decade. What that will do for car production and I presume insurance will be part of the hire charge.

A car should be designed ad either EV or ICE and to use the same chassis you end up with abominations like the original EQC. The different components require different allocation of space. 3 years ago I chose the Renault Arkana over other cars. Quite spacious, capable of 60 mpg on average and cheap to buy ie a bit over £26k. Now EVs, in most mainstream marques are similar RRPs to the ICE equivalent in the manufactures range, ie Austral and Rafeala, but far cheaper to run and as companies have to aomim to hit the 28% of sales EV mandate they offer low of zero percentage finance like i am looking at with the Megane e. Currently pulling 14 kWs during this free electricity period and expect to add 60 miles of range to the Scenic and 30 miles to the Zoe plus the charging of the home batteries so expecting a credit of a fiver or so. Suppose I am powering those devices ie fridge and TV, only wish I could watch the cricket ODI, BSB, F1, MOTOGP and WSB at the same time.

10 MPH seems extremely high, mine is more like 3 MPH and because it is a manual then it will only do this if the car is out of gear and in neutral because even in first gear the speed never drops below ~ 6MPH and even if it did I would think the ECU would know this and inhibit the stop anyway, surprising as well that it doesn't know if its "in gear" if a automatic but maybe these DSG gearboxes are different?, anyhow it still shouldn't shut down the engine until the car is practically at a standstill, if mine just starts moving (say on a incline) the engine will restart before the speed even registers.

Are there any EV drivers / Owners on here that have had a licence less than 10 years & not had Diesel or Petrol car? ? Do ICE drivers / owners that have not had or drive EV,s really know more than those that have had or driven? i have my opinion on who,s opinion is not worth a bag of magic beans.* Important is who and where. Choices. Business users with Tax incentives driving EV,s or those with Home / Work Place or cheap charging. Even private users if no home charger and paying Standard tariff on a 3 pin. 10 kWh is £3.00 & might take you 35-50 miles. Public charging for 50 pence a kWh then £5.00 for that 35-50 miles. Maybe free parking or other benefits of driving an EV.

This is the sort of fault where you're into auto-electrican territory rather than mechanic really - but the explanation on the connector is entirely feasible and might just explain some of the other errors too. Hope it has sorted it for you.

5Q0407764FV = 5Q0 407 272 EC No warrenty

automate that -> Memory module for Start-Stop button -> Permanently Disable Stop/Start

Another new fabia monte carlo which i picked up yesterday (75 plate).Loved the last one. However i wanted a bit more power this time around so opted for the 1.5tsi. Absolutely loving the dsg box and the extra power. The 1.0tsi is a great engine but driving this is much more refined. Its so much smoother.

A 2018 1.5 TSI ACT Skoda has a GPF / Gasoline Particulate Filter.

Any CCS / DC charger is fine or AC Tethered if you do not have a AC charging cable.

Is there a guarantee this will resolve the problem if fixed or will it have affected the engine going forward.

I presume you’ve enabled the “remember me” button in the login page? Assuming so, do you have your browser set to clear the cache every time you exit the browser or site?

The monitoring tech is present in all latest cars. Not just EV's. The ban for for military base is because the camera system for autonomous driving. But that's unrelated to powertrain itself, autonomous driving happens to be more advanced in EV's than ICE vehicle. There has never been any publicised case that Tesla has remotely disabled crashed/flooded vehicle. They do have the ability to decline selling very specific parts though, check Rich Rebuilds. In that case, it has effectively made repairing the vehicle impossible. Very poor from right to repair standpoint. They will also not allow those vehicle on their Tesla supercharging network unless quite expensive inspection had been done. But vehicle can always be rapid charged on other network.

Left as experienced when sitting in car facing forward. So nearside in UK.

Can be normal behavior, which is why I've turned the bloody thing off. Its not just Skoda; all VW brands do it.

There is no component protection. You can change them in the right order No contact on. Undo the screws. Remove fuse 30 and 46. Change the screens. Put it in place and put the fuses back. Make contact. If it's all normal screens starts up no problems. Screws back in place ready to go. All is to read and see in the pictures in this forum. It's simpel but don't forget the fuses Before I forget screen must be H49 hardware. 44 to 47 had the same problems

Is it the Engine Light / Exhaust Emissions light that is being asked about?

Hi Everyone, new here to the forum. Kinda fresh owner of a 2020 Superb IV. Some people might curse me for it, but it was red and I had it wrapped in "Gloss Auratium Green". I wanted a unique car, something green in the line of the Nardo Grey color but not Nardo Grey ;) In my opinion it worked out really well, love how different the car looks during the day versus evening / dusk. Funny how opinions on the color of my car are quite hefty. People either love it or hate it. I've been looking to get some other winter alloys. Any good tips on what OEM rims would look good? Love the current combination of black and chrome on the wheels. I thought the 19 inch Cursa wheels with black/chrome would look good but can't find any examples of Superbs with those rims. (https://originele-velgen.com/originele-skoda-kodiaq-ns7-cursa-565601025ap-ha7-lichtmetalen-velgen-19inch/)

Rear too

OTOH I once knew a mechanic who noticed this and put an item on the bill "painting fasteners as per originals"

If they damaged it while working on it its down to them to repair/make good. Main problem may be proving it was them? When you pick up a car from a garage dealer or not you trust them that its been done right. I don't know anyone who inspects a car before leaving the garage . Check with CAB as said. If the dealer has refused to repair it you could always point out that any publicity of that kind won't help their reputation. By the sound of it you wont be using them again anyway. Alasdair

There is no reason to change the timing belt on a 2020 car in 2025 - whoever advised it is way out of date since Skoda UK finally got in line with the rest of the VAG empire a while back and scrapped the ridiculous 5 year interval.

The V70's 15 years old - so it's averaged 2,667 a year: I bought it last year at 33k miles, so I've put 7k miles on it. 1200 of those were the trip last May up to Edinburgh. Gaz

@GeoffAllen66 You say you pulled over and checked the tyre pressures. You do not say you then reset the TPMS. You do have to drive a bit after resetting, but learning is in a few hundred yards or a mile or 3, not a matter of days. You checked them hot if you stopped and checked. You then need when the are cold to check the Tyre Pressures and see if all 4 are at the pressures when you last set when cold and reset the TPMS. Warning might not just be pessurelost, it can be a binding brake and overheating a a tyres circumference increasing because the hub / wheel is hot and the air in the tyre hotter.