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ATS Euromaster, & i get a further discount on the £125 each fitted. 60 Club. ATS & Halfords have a very good price / discount on Goodyear Vector 4 Season Gen 3,s.

So, nearly two weeks on and all is going well. The coolant level in the reservoir has remained at the mark. Seems it was just a cretin of a tech that couldn't follow instructions......!

I'm not sure about a poll but people are more likely to post when they have a problem rather than when everything is working great so it could be there is a "silent majority" out there who've never experienced any issues. I acquired my Mk4 new in October 2023 and I haven't had any infotainment problems at all (so far). I would have to say it's probably up there as the best all-round car I've had in 30-odd years of vehicle ownership and I would definitely get another.

I guess they quickly realised that it might spontaneously combust and even if it didn’t the batteries would need replacing in a couple of years at massive cost. Add to that the lack of that lovely HDi Diesel sound and boredom of not being able to change gear it is no surprise they quickly gave up until the EU deep state forced them to look again in order to control everybody’s lives and prevent freedom of choice and travel.

Where are you getting them from - is it somewhere local or national / on-line as I've started looking for All Seasons for the Kodiaq but in a 235/55/R18 100V (or above)

That wouldn't worry me at all, I'd just get it changed. 👍

10 amp. After midnight. Michelin CrossClimate 3,s going on Saturday. Surprised that they are cheaper at present than CrossClimate 2,s or +. 205/60 R16 V 96

My initial thought was that of a tired battery that was reluctant to supply the high current needed for steering, But as you have replaced the battery then it is more likely to be something that is making a poor connection. Check all connections from the battery to the steering unit including fuses and earths (return paths). Look for signs of corrosion at joints and black conductors at the ends of the cables.

I'd guess that would depend on the mod - ordinary enabling of additional features wouldn't.

I have a Monte Carlo, so no exiting roof bars or rails, what I have fits into the holes at the top of each door frame. If you already have rails from to back and need bars to go across I've no experience of that. Roofbox.co.uk should let you choose make and model and suggest things that fit your car, but they might not know if you have factory fitted options. This might be a better link, but only covers cars to 2021 model year. https://www.roofbox.co.uk/scripts/rbvehsel3.php?emulate=roofbar&query=8273

Probably less but then I’d have to get there to hire it and back from wherever it gets dropped off.

Hi, @Deadwood and welcome to Briskoda. Should be a load of friendly help and info for you on here

I'm in Ireland so doubt the Reg would help. Don't know the VIN but ill have a look later.

But you keeps banging on about Li-on battery fires are extremely hard to put out, extreme high temperature and there would be nothing left of the vehicle. I'm seeing significant vehicle left untouched. Even the tyres are intact. Quote from your CBC News link: May be time to stop putting flammable stuff into vehicles 😘

Update for anyone following my issue: I finally fixed it ✅ Here’s what I did before solving it: Checked 12V supply (battery/alternator). Checked fuses, wiring and connectors, cleaned them with contact cleaner. Checked fluid level (saw a small leak at the rack, but still OK). After all that, the pump itself was the issue. 👉 I replaced it with a used TRW pump (100€ + shipping). Notes for anyone else:Always do the tests first (12V, fuses, wiring, fluid). Make sure you get the same pump model (TRW) or an equivalent. Replacement is not complicated with basic tools. After fitting, just bleed the system by turning lock-to-lock with the front wheels lifted. No coding needed if you install the same type of pump. I’ll add two YouTube videos below that helped with the replacement. If anyone needs more info, feel free to contact me. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0SJMsvojdto https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8OAozLntfuM

When we had had our charger (ohme) installed, the installer ran a data cable alongside the supply cable back from wall box to the isolator by the meter box. Because the area in front of the garage had no wifi or connectivity. So there are solutions to making it smart, rather than just a dumb supply. However some (cheaper and less experienced) installers don't seem to offer solutions to lack of connectivity to web

You were right. It was an Asda fuel receipt that got sucked up from the glove box into the hamster cage fan attached to the motor. Thanks!

Charding is a different story... it can charge but have data transmission broken... VIN pls?

Apparently Citroen were making electric Berlingo vans back in 1998 but were using NiCad batteries, who knew? That means there has been activity on electric vehicles in the European motor industry long before many think, so why did they cease going down that road?

That's quite out of date, really. Cars now with electronic brake distribution brake more evenly, and stability control often uses a rear brake on corners. A qucik search shows a 2013 post from a Yeti owner years ago confused about why the rear pads went first. Rear pads are pretty small compared to fronts. Our Ateca (same car as Karoq) did a 35 mile each way motorway commute in my daughter's hands. That had new rear pads at 80K, which seems decent, but the fronts were reported as only 40% worn. So if fronts lasted 50/60K, changing the rears at 38K wouldn't be out of court. The Ateca was driven by daughter with autohold always on but now I'm using the car I leave it off, just using the "hand"brake manually with the switch when needed. I found, if anything, that the brakes tended to release too early and I'd find the car rolling. I am concious not to hold the car with the clutch, as I expect it's tiny. It's pretty flat where we live though.

That's a good price if they're in. I tried ordering from POTN in the UK last September - £583 all in. Do think about getting the service pack as well, because of your in there replacing the shocks, you may as well replace the isolators etc. at the same time. The shocks I ordered (and that Maddie from POTN confirmed would fit my non-DCC Sportline) were 24-229937 x 2 and 35-229919 x 2. I then added 12-243945 x 2 and 12-281459 x 2 to go in the car at the same time. Do bear in mind that you may wish to confirm this information independently, and that nothing I've said here can be taken as official advice, yada yada yada.....

Photo of thr brake warning light with the engine running.

I carry one in the boot luggage cubby hole. As far as bonnet fires go the percieved wisdom is (if ithe fire's not already raging) to flick the bonnet catch then lift it gingerly a few inches (if not too hot) then shove the nozzle in and blast away. Opening it wide just adds a burst of oxygen and a potential flare up. 😳

Mine went in the the dealers a couple of weeks back for this issue specifically. I dropped off at 9am, they looked at it at 2pm then called to say they couldn't hear anything. I picked it up later and could hear it clearly so they got an engineer to have a look, he seemed to think the noise was coming from the heater controls in the centre console, I'm not sure I agree on that one. They were meant to call back the next day to book it in again but they didn't 🤷‍♂️

@travs - many thanks fo ryour support! upgrade to 308 went smoothly, now aiming for 332 :-)

This is very good and stable version, no need to touch it!

Yes, I'm thinking the 1.9 too. Worrying that there's no record of belt change though. Although, I have been reading on here about the 4/5 year thing being scrapped, and only mileage used? Even so, 16 years is a bit much. As for the clio, that's going to stay in the family for sure.

You do NOT have App button on this unit, so probably Android Auto & Car play are not available.

thankyou all for the replys going to order and fit a 6Q0959263 6Q0959263A pack hopefully that will sort it

Bl00dy hell. Crazy Tariff. Thank Goodness for TESLA Superchargers @ Tesla Aberdeen, & Dundee, Perth, Aviemore, Inverness. & others in Scotland.

Fantastic.

@lol-lol The one i have can be set to 13 or 16 amp. I will take the car to Braemar tomorrow and then charge at InstaVolt after 8.pm to see what the charging speed is like.

No definite ideas, but I'd start by cleaning the oil splashes, and checking rocker and (if applicable) can chain cover bolts are all tight.

Difficult to get a clear shot of the moon this evening although it was pretty colorful behind the clouds🌛 No such difficulties last night though 🌛👍

So may have made progress. Took cluster out today separated it and sprayed the back with electric cleaner and used cotton buds to clean all the tracks. Lots of black residue on some of the holes on the tracks. Anyway seems to have sorted it as light is now off. I'm confident it wasn't due to power being off as I had previously removed and reinstalled fuse to no avail.

Further to the above: my dealer rang and offered to check connections of horns f.o.c. (which I think is very good of them.) Apparently it IS probably possible to loosen the bolts and tilt the bumper assembly and they will do that this week. I'll let you all know how it turns out. TW

Welcome back.

@SkOmk4 You're a legend, that managed to give me the confidence to proceed! Thanks a bunch. I'll contribute back with a Match DSP setup once i get it all dialed it. Just got a microphone today. A little thing i could also contribute back is that there is a small lid in the compartment for the charging cable that shows a cable connected directly to the frame. That is actually the negative lead from the battery. So i didn't even have to take out all of the styrofoam and undo 8 bolts, I could just have made do with that single one... It was so conveniently placed that I suspected it might be for exactly this reason, but I didn't dare touch it until I was certain. Ended up just undoing that it it worked as expected... Again thanks a bunch, couldn't have done this without your help!

This is mk1 Fabia version, but I doubt they've changed. N24 is the resistor pack, switch above it, V2 the fan motor: Three resistors plus a thermal fuse, all in series (actually just 'tappings' off a continuous winding of resistive wire). R1 section is often the first to fail cos it gets most use, but any of those four bits can fail. If R3 or the thermal fuse fail, only speed 4 will work, cos that's permanently connected even in the absence of N24.

Not like Fords where you lose 1&2 straight way ,at least Skoda do it gently

"Normal graceful degradation" failure of the fan rheostat.

And of course, if a new or used module is installed, it must be coded to the vehicle. The steering column unit is a sub-subscriber of the BCM. The clock spring ist the unit

Had same thing on my Octavia , new resistor and fan works good on all speeds

AC works all the time, but if it is in the off position it is only working at about 6%. Yes you can sometimes notice this. Thanks. AG Falco

Are you sure it's not running as 1 is very low? The most (very with VW) common thing is the heater blower fan resistor stops working and the fan only works at full speed, 4, a cheap part (obviously too cheap often) but a bit of a PITA/neck/back/knees/wrist/fingers to fit often. You can get a residual bit of cold air after air-con is switched off. Have a read of the 'Owner's Manual' for the various settings and restrictions from computers doing their stuff (gwad bless their little cotton socks). If you've not got the paper printed version you can get free VWŠkoda pdf download version from their site. - https://www.skoda-auto.com/apps/manuals/Models HTH.

We went out to try to spot the Eclipse earlier although unfortunately it was entirely clouded over when the Eclipse was at it's peak (7:33pm). The Eastern Sky was a beautiful pink just after sunset though. Whilst driving home we spotted the clouds had cleared and a partial Eclipse was visible 👍 Not a bad Sunset either 👍

Some posing in Opatija

I think as you do more of a stop/start style of covering the miles I would swap to fixed servicing.

Upgrade 5: Bonnet gas struts £50 from dark ice designs on ebay, 15 minutes and a set of torx bits and it's done

Upgrade number 3: Cruise control and maxidot instrument cluster! this one was a trip to Eddie-NL with the right parts and asking lots of annoying questions while he worked on my car. It is worth the trip to his place, trust me. For the cruise control, i had to find the stalks that had the cruise buttons on the left side (lots of basic ones, a bit hard to find). About £40 off ebay. With that, there's some wires to pull to the bcm, then 1 wire to pull through to the engine bay and into the ecu. This requires cutting a slot into the anti tampering bolds that hold the ecu in place. for the maxidot, ideally there should be found a similar year donor car. I found a much newer one (very late 2014, one of the last ones) and unfortunately the mileage forever flashes on the screen. I then found a 2011 cluster and it would only take 32 bit immobiliser keys, instead of the 64 ones i have. So, find the exact year if possible