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We popped to Coningsby to see the Japanese Kawasaki C-2's UK Defence JournalJapan completes first-ever fighter jet deployment to EuropeJapan’s Air Self-Defense Force has carried out its first fighter deployment to Europe in its 71-year history, with F-15 jets touching down at RAF Coningsby as part of the Atlantic Eagles mission.Didn't bring my camera so had to rely on the phone🤦‍♂

Also called in to take a quick look at the new Lancaster sculpture on the A46 https://w3w.co/snug.dress.boards

Facelift with LED

If you are driving a front-wheel-drive vehicle and you have a flat at the front, you should replace the flat tyre with a rear tyre so that the space saver is not at the front of the car. I would have thought the AA would know this... maybe not.

Hi all. Figured I'd best introduce myself. I'm Andy and I'm nearly 3 years into Octavia ownership. It hasn't been without its problems (4x4, so mostly rear diff issues) but for some reason, this car has got right under my skin and I can't get rid of it. It's only an oil burner but it's superb for taking the dogs on long distance euro trips and I still think it looks the dogs dangly bits when it's cleaned up 👌🏻

Just like to thank briskoda and john for the clutch master cylinder seal info as was having a nightmare. Removed old master cylinder which is a nightmare to get to and see. Replaced it leaks everywhere. Turned out seals had fallen onto gravel and one in undergrad, went online for replacements which arrived with an o ring. Tried repeatedly to fit o ring on groove and seal on pipe. Leaks leaks leaks. O ring not required seal goes all the way on . Thankyou briskoda and john saved me from a mental breakdown!!!!

Hello, welcome to the forum. Have the battery tested first (as suggested by Tilt) - If that tests out OK, check the ABS sensors as suggested by Berisford.

HI All, Finally it's out the factory and it's at Emden , hopefully not a long wait as it was built week 34 (almost a month back) Anyone have rough idea of the average time once it catches the boat and arrives at the dealer?

I've just finished converting the boot space of my UK-spec 2-wheel drive Karoq SE-L trim from a space saver spare wheel to a full-size share wheel. I thought I'd put some photos here, in case anybody else is thinking of doing something similar. When I bought our Karoq SE-L earlier this year, I wanted to order a full-size spare wheel, but it wasn't an option. The only option was a space-saver spare wheel. But I read on various forums that it's possible to fit the boot kit for a full-size spare, it just needs a bit of simple cutting of a polystyrene piece, which indeed turned out to be true. I think this is only a problem if your Karoq has the VarioFlex seats, because there is a handle on each seat which is inaccessible if you don't cut off some of this polystyrene. The UK model of SE-L trim comes with VarioFlex seats as standard, and 18" Braga style alloy wheels. The Skoda part number for this boot kit for full-sized spare wheel is 57A 093 860A. I paid £77.50 + VAT from my local Skoda dealer. It's a very big box! In photo number 01, you can see the original space-saver spare wheel in place. In photo number 02, you can see the contents of the kit, laid out on my garage floor. In photo number 03, you can see the main page of the instruction manual, showing all the different pieces . The original boot cover needs to be unclipped. You just need to lift up the VarioFlex seats to locate some plastic clips. Twist these plastic clips then pull them out. Then pull up the material which goes underneath the seats, so you can lift out the boot cover from off the pins. You can then put back the material which goes under the seats and put the clips back in place, because the new boot cover is not held down by these pins at all. In photo number 04, you can see the boot well with the old skinny wheel and the old boot floor removed. This photo was taken before I removed the old polystyrene insert. You can see that there is a plastic tubular piece in the centre, which stops the wheel from moving around. I thought that the kit for the full size wheel would have a taller plastic piece to support the boot floor at a higher level, due to the extra height from the full-size wheel, but it doesn't. The new kit came with exactly the same plastic part which was there already, so I just left the original one in place. In photo number 05, you can see the polystyrene piece which sits along the full width of the boot space, between the seat backs and the spare wheel. The two protrusions which you can see enable it to interlock with the two other polystyrene pieces. This polystyrene piece shows a VW part number of 575 863 496 A. In photo number 06, you can see the polystyrene piece which sits to the left of the spare wheel. It shows a VW part number of 575 863 495 E. In photo number 07, you can see the polystyrene piece which sits to the right of the spare wheel. It shows a VW part number of 575 863 496 J. This is the part which holds the jack, brace, and locking wheel nut etc. in place. There are some plastic clips which hold down the right and left polystyrene pieces ( 2 clips each). They attach to some protrusions in the metal underneath. You actually need a large Torx screwdriver to properly screw them on, but I didn't have one, so I just screwed them finger tight. From what I could see in the instruction manual, it looks like you get a tool to screw them down with the official spare wheel, but I didn't buy the official spare wheel. I bought a 2nd hand Braga alloy wheel from eBay, which is absolutely identical to the 4 other wheels. In photo number 08, you can see my full-size 18" Braga wheel sitting in the cavity, after the polystyrene pieces have all been put in place. After I took this photo, I still had to screw down the plastic cap which goes on top of the tubular part in the centre of the wheel, to hold the wheel firmly in place. The Skoda boot kit comes with a jack and a wheel brace, which go in the right-hand polystyrene piece. The brace looked identical to the one which I already had, but the jack was very slightly different (the base of it was a slightly different width). There is space to put other tools in the cavity in the left-hand polystyrene piece, and I also put loads of other tools etc. in the cavity in the centre of the spare wheel. In photo number 09, you can see along the rear of the VarioFlex seats , where I had to make a cutout in the polystyrene piece behind the handle of each seat. I also removed a thin slither of polystyrene along the fully length, just to stop it interfering with the seats when they are lifted up and put back down. In photo number 10, you can see the new boot floor which comes as part of the kit. It actually has a Seat part number on it, which is 575 863 463 D CA9. It has some triangular-shaped dense foam pieces in the corners, to hold it in place correctly. Overall, I think this Skoda boot kit for the full-size spare wheel is pretty good value. You get a lot of stuff for £77.50 + VAT. If you already have a space-saver spare wheel, you actually end up with some bits which you don't really need. For example, you'll get an additional wheel brace and jack, and an additional plastic part which screws the wheel down to the boot floor. If you're able to get the pieces individually, the ones which you really need, if you already have a space-saver spare wheel and jack etc., are the three VW polystyrene part numbers 575 863 496 A, 575 863 495 E, 575 863 496 J, plus the Seat boot floor part number 575 863 463 D CA9. I hope that this is helpful to some people out there.

Ummmm. I’ll look into it. Thank you.

Well I have made some incorrect assumptions... With the back seat out I can hear that when I crank the engine the lift pump is running. I expected that it would run when I turned the ignition on (like many other cars). So there is some other cause of this problem. I did check the fuel temperature sensor, resistance was 2770Ω and rising (engine had been running and was cooling). A while back I put a piece of clear fuel line on the input to the fuel filter. The next day there was some air in the line: My brother suggested I buy a pressure test kit so I will order one now. Also perhaps the check valve could be faulty? A cheap part to replace I assume but wouldn't explain the juddering when running.

1.5Tsi is the newer engine with ACT but the cambelt change is almost £1k. Nothing wrong with the 1.4Tsi and cambelt changes are much cheaper as it doesn't have complexity of ACT. I think earlier 1.5tsi had kangaroo issues when the engine was cold, so 1.4tsi probably more reliable option as any issues would have already been resolved on the facelifted model.

Normal after reconnecting the battery, just go for a short drive and they should all clear.

Even Harry Metcalf is also saying that BEV's are not selling and our government has got it all wrong. Every BEV has to be massively subsidized in order to get companies to purchase them, the private buyer is being put off by the high cost and the lack of ability to charge from home, and even when they can, the need to use public chargers on longer trips is not suitable on a cost basis and also the time taken to charge.

yep, its the "Selection" Trim 2025..

Brilliant. Thank you for all of your replies.

Just chiming in on costs as we've just come back from holiday to Northumberland. We covered 1305 miles with average consumption of 3.27 m/kWh (lowered by the return trip in the wind and rain yesterday 3.2 average for 240 miles). The total cost of electricity used including topping back up at home on return was £159.21, giving an overall cost per mile of 12.2p. That's pretty comparable to my Citigo petrol which is giving 11.9p/mile at current prices. My previous diesel Karoq would be about 13.6p/mile at current prices, so the ID.4 is still more economical using public chargers. I used AC chargers while visiting attractions with prices down around 53p/kWh. We did a few rapid charges, Tebay services both going and coming home, two Tesla charges as they were the same price as A/C charging and an Ionity charge to test Plug and Charge. The Ionity charge was by far the most expensive. I hope this is useful

Frankly I don't care what type of sale it is as long ad it gets another EV on to the market. Schemes such as Salary Sactlrifice for EVs have helped deliver many thousands of EV registrations in line with the previous government's aims as well as this one. The penalties for not hitting the 28% of all sales being EVs are very severe so they will take cars on as demos etc to hit the Reg target. Second hand cars offer additional sources of profit for dealerships and car sales Agencies. 2nd hand cars are usually sold with higher rates of finance and dealers would make more money in that way. I was at the dealers on Friday organising the replacement for the Zoe and the Megane-e looks a logical replacement. Renault offering 4 years interest free and a proce thousands less than they were 2 or 3 years ago. Then add in the UK government grant. Wow what a deal. Chatting around all sorts of stuff and then somehow occupation, motoring organisational discounts cropped up. Oh my God. I was looking at getting 5 or maybe 6 %. With Occupational discount stuff, boom, 20%, saves extra thousands. EV sales, getting on the UK market by various routes, does not bother the UK government or those of use supporting EV adoption and whilst fellow Worcester people ie Geoff buys cars, blow hot over it most are not concerned. As long ad there is not fraud over the EV scheme, think there was reportedly quite a bit in PRC, not bothered and great for getting more EVs out there.

Thank you so much for taking the time and effort to provide such a comprehensive answer, it’s much appreciated! In the end, it was #3 that sorted the problem, although Heaven alone knows how it went silent on me to begin with! Very frustrating but a happy outcome - thanks again 👍

Hello, welcome to the forum. 2020 registration would definitely be a FL - I think the change from Mk3 to 3.5 was 2017.

I reckon there are several ways in which the Maps directions might be silenced. In the CarPlay settings screen (accessed through the cars infotainment screen) Silent Mode settings. I have set mine to mirror the iPhone. Whilst navigating with Maps (in the car) tap the screen and a Speaker icon appears in the top left, just below the routes icon. Tap the speaker. Select from three levels of notification/alert. The bottom one is none. Whilst navigating with Maps (directly on the phone, not CarPlay screen) tap the up-arrow in the bottom right of the screen to display Route Options. One of those is Voice Volume. Other thoughts… Restart your iPhone. Very occasionally I have no sound from Music, Spotify, nor Maps. Restarting the phone and reconnecting CarPlay had sorted it. I think the infotainment system remembers volume settings for different sources. So for example, built satnav is different to the radio. Maybe CarPlay is one of the sources is differentiates. Does Music/Spotify play at normal volume but not Maps?

No, it didn’t, thankfully, heaven know what it would have been like if it had. From what I can gather, it was a demonstrator, then the ‘first’ real owner had it on Skoda finance for a couple of years, then the second owner also had it on Skoda finance, and was obviously the smoker. Apart from the smell, I’m really surprised it didn’t have any more burns and melts after what I’ve discovered…and it’s why I bought it…it’s in excellent overall condition inside and out, I think it only got used to smoke in, rather than being driven anywhere 🤣

@pinkpanther Have a read through this. Not a variable floor but does discuss what you want to do.

Hello, welcome to the forum. Are you able to source a diagram for the fuel transfer pump? I'd check to see what controls there are in the pump circuit. Failing that, I'd take another good look at the pressure sensor.

Hi so as I mentioned above I wasnt worried, with good reason firstly amber light isn't an "nct" failure. It was an intermittent cooler pump failure. 1 of 3 pumps on the coolant loop. Alot of scare mongering ive noticed . Anyway I just wanted to update the Skoda group on my intermittent failure fault.

Welcome to Briskoda @Monzon Your English is just fine and nice looking motor 👍

Evening, welcome to the forum! Have a search on the mk3 octy section or post up a new thread to ask about the issue and you should get a decent response 👍🏻

Sage advice, I'm glad this sticker survived, because it sure is tempting. I think I'm going to end up dropping this to weld more and more and more and more trash, Like for example this joy I found whilst taking that photo: It's that joy where the underseal becomes more of a blight than a help, it's held water in against the steel. That repair is going to be right by the fuel lines \0/ This is going to be my forever project, like welding the fourth bridge or whatever.

Get your battery checked would be my advice ....

This is the one I bought. Definitely money well spent. Alloy car wheel screw in quick alignment tool M14 x 1.5 Thread suitable for VW Volkswagen : Amazon.co.uk: Automotive

ABS sensor, quite likely to be rear offside……?

Came across a fly on an apple earlier - guessing it's feeding?

Have a bigger fuel tank would be my go-to ... (50L for the RS230 is small to get decent range ...) The only mod I did is changing the RARB to go to Golf TCR, cheap and effective way to control leaning in corners.

Not managed to get out with the camera as we’ve been working on the last room to renovate. Finished yesterday.

Press the right hand roller button on the steering wheel to answer an incoming call.

Public chargers vary in price, the slow ones tend to be around 50-60p per kw/h, fast ones are closer to 75-95p. some are a bit cheaper where competition exists, and for certain brands can get lower rates by opening a contract. Home charging is closer to 6.5-7p on overnight tariffs, or around 4 times that or normal daytime electricity. Depending on how you drive, traffic levels, temperature, etc a 50kw charge will generally give around 220 miles. For ease it is about half the distance you would get on a full fuel tank (brim to empty). so comparison is full fuel tank, costs around £60-90 depending on model. or 2 charges of 50kw/h which is 100kw/h at 6.7p (overnight electricity) is £6.70 at 26p (daytime electricity) is £26 at 55p (slow charger) is £55 at 85p (fast charger) is £85 so if you charge at home and rarely do more than 200 miles (so normally don't need to top up at public charger) is about tenth of the cost. Someone doing say 10k miles a year would be saving about £1000 per year in fuel. If you can get free electricity at work etc then would save whole fuel cost. if regularly using slow public chargers, electricity will be cheaper, probably saving 20-30%. But you would be paying virtually same using fast chargers. Being blunt if you have home charger, you will save, if you need to use public chargers then not going to save much going electric. Saving £1000 per year on fuel and cheaper servicing adds up over few years. Of course if you are thinking of going electric, then exact comparison will depend on model, and petrol and electricity prices for next few years, so might as well use the basic comparison above. It is likely to cost around £1000 to install a home charger, (bit more if very long cable run or your home supply is old/poor so needs work), so this tends to offset first year savings. Although if buying a new car, they might contribute big chunk of this installation cost depending on offers that come and go.

All of them will be permanent 12V.

Just resurrecting this topic...! I finally fitted the Focal IS 165 VW speakers at the weekend. My notes, from my attempt to fit: - The Focal speakers use a 4-pin connector, which I didn't have. Fortunately I had some small spade connectors which I could just use to attach the speaker wires directly to the terminals on the speakers. - The original Skoda Octavia Mk3 (Estate, if that makes any difference) has two pairs of wires in the loom(s) in the door - one to the tweeter and one to the woofer. The Focal IS 165 VW woofer seems to take one connector, which then has a pair of wires which go up to the tweeter. So I disconnected the original tweeter cable, knotted it round itself and tethered it safely against the door skin, in case it was needed in future, and wired the Focal tweeter in parallel with the woofer. - I removed the Skoda 2-pin connector from the woofer wires so I had two bare ends. I removed the Focal spade connectors from one end of the paired tweeter wires. Each wire pair had one with a black stripe, so it was easy to make sure polarity (positive and negative) was kept the same throughout. And the Focal speaker has a - and a + on the plastic moulding, so it's easy to see what should connect where. - I tested and experimented with the wires - it seems the four terminals on the Focal connector are two -ve, two +ve, in pairs next to each other. In other words, the two terminals near the "-" symbol are connected in parallel, and so are the two terminals nearest the "+" symbol on the speaker. - I twisted and soldered the Skoda loom feed wire and the Focal tweeter wire together and connected them to a spade connector, then covered them up with heatshrink. They gripped the speaker terminals well. - Drilling out the plastic clips that held the original speaker in was fine. HOWEVER the rivet / screw holes in the door panel are around 8mm diameter, so the nice Focal rivets that come with the speakers didn't work - they expanded and popped, but hadn't expanded wide enough to hold the speaker in, they just rattled out! I run a bicycle shop, so I used bottle cage rivnuts. They were a bit of a faff to fit, but meant I had tidy nuts held in place, so I could use M5 bolts and washers, with Loctite 243, to really hold the speakers securely in place. - the tweeters were actually way less hassle than I expected. The Focal tweeters come with a removable ring; once that's removed, the diameter of the tweeter is the same size as the original. To remove the original tweeter, you just need to cut the three pins off the plastic housing with a sharp knife, then pull the tweeter away. I then cleaned up the cylinder in the door housing so the new tweeter fitted neatly onto it. I then used a hot glue gun and plenty of glue to glue the new tweeter in place, making sure the wires fitted neatly through the retaining clip. - the original rubber ring to fit between the woofer and the door panel _doesn't_ fit the Focal speakers. But it's very close - so, again with the sharp knife, I trimmed off the small plastic moulding lumps around the outside of the ring and made it as close to a uniform circle as I could, then offered it up against the Focal woofer... it fitted around outside the moving parts of the speaker, so I held it in place and wrapped some PVC insulating tape around it a couple of times (pull it slightly and it stretches, to hold the ring firmly in place) then fitted the door panel, checking that it hadn't been dislodged and it wasn't fouling the actual speaker. ...I think that's it! With a completely flat EQ profile on the OEM sound system, the new speakers sound clear, the range is great, the definition is superb and I'm very happy with them so far. (I just wish I'd taken photos!)

It is effectively a small part of what would collected in the 20% of the VAT. Government still collects load of tax on new car sales.

Barrie Crampton….. I’m out.

EY report on EV sales around the world...... China surging ahead, Europe licking along at a good pace US moving towards EVs but at a much slower pace...........

So keyless entry eats batteries and allows thieves to quietly walk off with your car.... Shame they don't have an option on all specs to not have keyless entry