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Hey, I'm just getting the hang of things so apologies if I've gone about things in the wrong way. We have two Yetis a 2016 1.2 petrol DSG and a 2015 2ltr L and K with a leaking sun roof, hence trying to remove the sun visor to drop the roof lining. The thread was the only one which had the same problem I am experiencing so reached out in desperation. We love our Yetis!

Cylinder On Demand - when the ACT kicks in/out and switches the engine between a 2 cylinder one and a 4 cylinder one.

If you want storage under both front seats, and don't want to buy and fit the official add ons, I can recommend simple Ikea Drona boxes which I've been using successfully for around a year. They don't slip, and fully utilise the space under the seats (hold just over 6.5l each). I use them for snacks for the kids, and a box of tissues etc to avoid cluttering the cabin. They fit perfectly. These ones on Amazon if you don't have an Ikea nearby. I should probably point out I don't have electric seat adjustments which means there's room. I'd guess if you do have that, there wouldn't be room for the storage. Hope it helps someone.

Hopefully the fault will just be failing plugs or coil pack/s. Allow them an attempt to rectify the fault, then see how it is. Insist they give you full details of the cause of the fault and what was done to rectify it.

Well, the gen 3 ea888 are generally well regarded but that's not to say they never ever ever fail in a serious way or ever need repairs..... Your concern is genuine. As the car has been traded and sold on to you and within short time shows a eml and fault.. Is it bad luck, did the last owner trade it due to the issue.... all unknowns. It really depends if the faultl is easily resolved permanently or if there is a nasty deeper level cause that lingers. Misfires easy solutions tend to be plugs, coli packs, more expensive injectors, very expensive valves or piston rings... 30 days is a statutory return period. You also have 6 months statutory protection edit; for repair, with the selling dealer if they are still trading, that presumes faults in first 6 months existed from the start....regardless of any third party insurance warranty document. If you can get it repaired by the dealer within 30 days and it gives you enough time to try and drive fault free for a little while before the 30 day expiry that would be ideal. But may not be possible....

Hello, I got my car back from the workshop today. Can confirm that only the display unit (5E3919605) got replaced under warranty. The previous display unit was hardware H47, now the new one is H49. They also did some software update to my DSG gearbox which was a separate matter.

I'll try to get a clear pic tonight before it gets dark.

For the amount of work involved, including materials, I think your answer must be yes.

Also here the note, when upgrading the brake, if you do it correctly, the new brake Hardware must be coded in the ABS

I've had VCDS for well over 10 years and it's paid for itself many tmes over with £100 in garage fees saved everytime I (or friends) have needed a fault diagnosis.

I remember looking on this brilliant forum a while back to try to ascertain the location of a rattle from the rear of my 2022 Kodiaq 7 seater. A few suggestions directed me to the second row seat belt clasp as it goes into the roof socket or the ones on the seat but it was still there. I finally discovered what it was and thought it might be useful for others. If you slide the rear seats forward then return them to their correct position, the handle under the front of the seat is the rattle. I found this by lifting it slightly and it seemed to clock into place. Each time I've had the rattle since, just a quick lift if the handle has cured it.

If you have a factory MIB2, then you'll also communicate correctly with the climate control unit on the MIB3. Apart from that, the MIB has nothing to do with the crash data error message.

Pixel phone on Astromode ✨ Would ideally need to head out somewhere with less ambient light but not a bad effort from the back garden (balanced on a jar 😁).................

You can trigger the dynamic ACC calibration drive with any good diagnostic tool. However, this only works if the sensor is adjusted within a certain tolerance. Otherwise, you'll have to do the static one. But before doing that, check the mechanics.

In that case that is probably as good as it will get from trying that free, easy, quick, clean-hands trick and adding air-con and blower to steering load was just to strongly convince the very dumb computers that the battery state of charge was fine. I have no idea if all 10 fields(?) need to be populated but I did as it was easy just to change the tenth 1 to a 2. Perhaps your Car Scanner Pro can show you information to confirm the charging details have gone to a new replacement battery fitted. For the front assist unavailable have you tried turning it off via the infotainment menu, drive a short distance and then turn ignition off for a short time and then turn ignition back on and turn front assist back on via the infotainment menu and short drive back. Another form of 'turning it off and on again' and quick, easy, next to no-cost, clean-hands thing to try. Might save introducing another computer and computer programming to sort things (Car Scanner Pro, OBDEleven or others). Other than another member 'coding' my battery with OBDEleven I have never seen them so sorry I have no idea about adjustment or reset with it. I can well imagine the VW computer getting upset from a low or high voltage or having a brain-fart so just needing a programming reset without physical adjustment. Perhaps just disconnecting it (at the wire connector) for a while and reconnecting in a 'switching it off and on again' sort of way might sort it - but I don't know that for sure (and no doubt someone will say if you do that there will be consequences on the car and/or half the streetlights in Germany will go out). Perhaps the actual source of the ACC fault is elsewhere and just showing there but you have only had electronic child lock and digital radio antenna show on your Car Scanner Pro, with two computer systems, the car and the scanner, either or both could have errors presented. The scanner at least needs its program for the car to be fully up to date before use on the car and scanner batteries in reasonable state of charge. My wife's 2015 Fabia Mk3 (without ACC or cc , thank gawd) has at least twice had the front "assist" unavailable for very brief periods when my wife was of driving and I wasn't in the car, I guess the first something like a leave causing obstruction and second time, in town, my wife saw a paper bag blowing on the road, might have been coincidence or the cause.

Yes

You need the steering Wheel Button from Superb 2 Facelift

Ah it's the same one I just posted then?

Damn. Location I forget, somewhere north of The Watford gap IIRC. Reggo 👇

Independent. I'm in the 30 days right to reject. The dealer has offered to put right any repairs free of charge and offer 12 month warranty up to 2k

Oh yes! Don’t do what I do/did. First time I didn’t realise. But, ever since then I now count the groves left over or use a marker pen.

The only difference that I noticed is that the sensors are faster alo PDC activates faster and the back cam is faster to visualize the image. Stability it is stable like the 1985 so far all fine.

The H49 are good my H47 is also replaced

ok thanks for the comments there - will have to go for a look at one and see what i think. Not a fan of all the modern bells and whistles but seems there is no way to avoid it.

Thanks @travs I've decided to go with Option #2 - IE downpipe and switch to Galano ECU tune with TCU tune. Spoke to my tuner guys at length and we felt this would b the best way forward for Gandalf. The work will b carried out towards the end of Oct - I'm really looking forward to it.

Even in the unlikely event that the doors are different, you could simply sell on the Vrs door.

Agreed that it looks oddly shaped but I can't think of any other symbol it could be given it's location. A better pic, ideally close up, might give us more detail.

Very odd shaped symbol if MIL!

Definitely a stunner there pal, lovely shots. What's the sitch on your downpipe desires btw?

Just to clarify in your post there, the 280 comes with 340 front, 310 rear as standard. All others come with 312 front, 300 rear. There's a few options - but it depends on how you're driving the car and how you intend to and your budget. my initial thoughts are as follows: Move to 340 front and see how that works - the link I sent above will be all you need and gets you onto that size. I think the increased braking area is low hanging fruit, Another very easy thing (as heat dissipation is key) is the RS3 brake ducts. Plenty of places do them, they're OE (Audit Sport developed), fit onto your lower arms with big thick cable ties and feed cold air onto the back of the disc (although for better response, ideally you can cut some grooves in the dust shields too - again, easy when you have the ones from the link above ready to go on the car), If you're getting brake fade, you could consider getting some braided brake hoses and getting them fitted when you next have your fluid changed (they have to drain the system anyway so stands to reason to do it at the same time). If the larger fronts are still not doing it for you, then there are options for aftermarket discs and pads from there.

So after a leak test, it is indeed the evaporator. Mechanic says that taking apart the interior dash to access it, plus new unit, would be a two day job at around £450. Does that sound reasonable? I think it probably does?

As what Dean said, BUT!!!!!!! Count how many of the grooves are visible to make sure you put the cable back in exactly the right spot. Otherwise the tension won’t be correct and the lock won’t open. Do not close the door until you tested it successfully at least a dozen times, using a screwdriver to close the latch with the door open.

What say the Error Log when you Check this with OBD11 or something Else?

You did nothing wrong @yetitwins In fact you followed the guidelines perfectly 👍🏻 Hopefully someone will have advice for you soon 🤞🏻

What I intended to write above.......but you can't delete or edit after just a few minutes......... ........On a 2 wheel drive Karoq I'd prefer the spacesaver to be on the rear, it can't be doing the differential any good on the front - on the 4 wheel drive I'm not sure you can fit a single wheel with a smaller circumference....?

You do realise the last post was only 3 yrs ago, not 7, and the age of the post is irrelevant if it’s about a topic someone (a new member, so that’s a warm welcome, laughing at them...) has searched and may be able to get help from?

According to Jurid/Ferodo/Valeo on autodoc, the Superb MK3 1.4TSI iV 160kW/218PS has 312x25mm front brake discs and 300x12mm rear brake discs. All Superb MK3 models use the 312x25mm front and 300x12mm rear brake disc combination except for the powerful 2.0TSI 272/280PS 4x4 models which use the bigger 340x30mm front and 310x22mm rear brake disc combination. The 312x25mm front brake discs could be upgraded to 314x30mm from the Kodiaq. The Kodiaq uses these 314x30mm front brakes discs in combination with the 300x12mm rear brake discs. The 314x30mm front brake discs use the same front brake calipers as the 340x30mm front brake discs. 314x30mm front brake discs enable the use of 16" wheels, whereas the bigger 340x30mm front brake discs need at least 17" wheels to clear the front brake calipers. One owner reported that the 310x22mm rear brakes also need at least 17" wheels to clear the rear brake calipers. The increase in piston diameter of the front brake calipers when going from 312x25mm front brake calipers to 314x30mm/340x30mm front brake calipers will increase the pressure applied to the front brake pads by 10.8%, ie. (60/57)x(60/57)=1.108033241 The increase in the surface area of the front brake pads when going from 312x25mm front brake calipers to 314x30mm/340x30mm front brake calipers is about 18.2% (estimate only as based on outside lengths and outside heights of front brake pads), ie. (175.2/160.2)x(69.7/64.5)=1.1818018175 314x30mm/340x30mm front brake discs have more effective cooling than 312x25mm front brake discs. The performance of the 314x30mm front brakes is probably closer to the 340x30mm front brakes than the 312x25mm front brakes. On the Superb MK3, all the master cylinders use a 23.8mm (15/16"=23.8mm) bore for both the 312x25mm/300x12mm and 340x30mm/310x22mm brake disc combinations. Piston diameter 312x25mm front brake caliper 57mm 314x30mm/340x30mm front brake caliper 60mm 314x30mm front brake discs (Kodiaq build code 1LW) (TRW brake calipers) Left caliper 3C0615123 Right caliper 3C0615124 Left carrier 7N0615125 Right carrier 7N0615126 Disc 1K0615301AJ Brake pads 8V0698151C https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ/KOD/804/6/615/615010 312x25mm front brake discs 8.6kg 314x30mm front brake discs 9.4kg 340x30mm front brake discs 10.8kg Front brake pads for 312x25mm front brake discs Front brake pads for 314x30mm/340x30mm front brake discs

Just got a call from the car electrician. He thinks he might have fixed the problem. This was his first try. Not bad price (as this was a rehearsal), 80€. Going to collect tomorrow. It's going to take a while to get it fitted to the Fabia but if it works I will take my other selector also to be processed. If this did not work I will send my other selector to Germany to be repaired.

Okay, sorry. I did write me suggestion very late in the evening so clearly wasn't paying attention. Yeah, sorry, it was very late when I replied so clearly didn't read it correctly.

Spring has arrived, so it was a good reason to wash Gandalf, after a long overdue 5 month draught, and take some updated pics afterwards. Some rolling shots...

Just chiming in on costs as we've just come back from holiday to Northumberland. We covered 1305 miles with average consumption of 3.27 m/kWh (lowered by the return trip in the wind and rain yesterday 3.2 average for 240 miles). The total cost of electricity used including topping back up at home on return was £159.21, giving an overall cost per mile of 12.2p. That's pretty comparable to my Citigo petrol which is giving 11.9p/mile at current prices. My previous diesel Karoq would be about 13.6p/mile at current prices, so the ID.4 is still more economical using public chargers. I used AC chargers while visiting attractions with prices down around 53p/kWh. We did a few rapid charges, Tebay services both going and coming home, two Tesla charges as they were the same price as A/C charging and an Ionity charge to test Plug and Charge. The Ionity charge was by far the most expensive. I hope this is useful

With HVAC leak issues; it is worth putting getting a reputable HVAC specialist to put in some UV green dye to identify leaks. Usual contenders are the Schrader valves (high pressure and low pressure) that can leak as well as the condenser located as part of the cooling package on the front of the car. The former takes 2 mins to fix, the latter requires a new condenser. Both operations require evacuations of the refrigerant from the vehicles. Typically on the MK3 Octavia's / MK7 Golfs, VAG recommend that a regas is performed every 2-3 years. I can say that after about 30 months, the HVAC does need regassing. What happens is that the cooling gets 'asthmatic' and needs attention.

If the battery is in a good state of charge, which it should be if you charged it before installing (something I recommend) and you have got the data entry correct for the new battery and you haven't driven the car yet then you could try - starting the engine, turning on the headlights with the air-con on and blower on and then turning the steering wheel fully in both direction and going for a reasonable length drive. That might settle the little darlings that are the computer(s) and a relatively cheap and easy thing to try. You might first want to check (double-check) what you have inputted for the battery, did you do a like for like change, same battery type (EFB, AGM (known as "fleece" to our dear friends VW), same Ah or near enough, and you changed the battery "serial" number (often from factory ten ones (1111111111) to 1111111112. I notice in your photo a line of scratches near the l/h sensor (as we look at it), have they ben there a while. The child locks used to be simple mechanical thing but now we have the sophistication of electronic control so as well as mechanical issue you add electric, electronic and programming but it could still be something very simple other diagnosis tools can be used to check including human senses or if you want to stick with scan tool perhaps a bidirectional test of activation and deactivation if possible. Odd that the car has warnings about the child lock but not the scan tool, "implausible message" is always a great one sometimes meaning not much in actual relation to the item, brain farts and actual system faults can go in odd directions and locations and amazing how an unrelated faulty sensor can mess other system(s), oh the joy of progress. Live data is what you can get on a scan tool if you have the system(s) running, say with driving the car buit you don't want to be distracted as a driver (as you can be with the TwatNav, phone and other infotainment stuff. If you want to see real time live data then you need to be passenger. HTH.

This thread is about upgrading the infotainment system, so I’m not sure why you’d want to downgrade your infotainment system but 🤷‍♂️

Take the hose off and see if a hydraulic hose company can make you one up. I had similar probs with an old Volvo 940 and my local hydraulic hose company made me one for around £60. That was a few years ago so prices will be higher. Alasdair

Hi I did it like this

The mdi connector for these to plug into, if factory, is inside the glove box at the right hand end. If they're old ipod tails, you really need a different one with say a usb to allow you to use a thumb drive. Unless of course you have an old ipod that works.

AZO 800 001 = Adaptor for media in harness IPOD 5N0 035 558 = Same or USB (cannot see exactly at the moment)

They look like MDI cables. Used to connect USB/iPhone etc etc to the car's infotainment system.

I don't have an Octavia any more (now have a Kodiaq) but I'm almost 100% certain they use three existing screws... Two on the sides and one underneath. You just undo the existing screws, offer up the flap and align the holes on it and the car an refit the screws. If you hold one up against the car in position it should be obvious.