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My eight-year-old passed its M.O.T. with no advisories. This comes on the heels of a 2,646 mile tour of Portugal, Spain and France over 30 days. I had to have the water pump replaced before I went, but the car never missed a beat. Well, aside from losing some window trim on the autoroute at 85 mph. We spent nights in León, Santiago de Compostela, Vigo, Porto, Salamanca, Logroño, Bielsa, Sète, Grenoble, Colmar and Laon. I'm knackered! We had two days of rain (Santiago and Colmar) wore t-shirts and sandals in the beginning, winter coats by the end. I lost and had to replace my plug adapter, my laptop charger and my cap. I lost my phone on the second day of our trip, but ran back to the restaurant and the waiter was holding it. I lost my phone on the 26th day of our trip, but ran back and the barman was holding it. Sheesh! Santiago was a major disappointment. We were looking forward to our return after 19 years, but the town is a certifiable victim of over-tourism. Sète and Porto were the most fun.

Hi Greg, After driving the car more than 150 miles, it seems that the issue is gone. I get no Engine or EPC warning lights on the dashboard and no Error Codes when I plug the car scanner (I mean, there are some codes, but I believe they are related to other issues). I cannot thank you enough for your messages and photos. I couldn't have fixed it without you. Also, thank you @Breezy_Pete for your tips related to the linkage. Juan

Thank you for the quick replies. For clarification, I was looking at a 2017 or newer Superb with an automatic petrol engine.

My 2015 does. If you’re on a slope, you take your foot off the brake and it will hold for something like four seconds while you put your foot on the loud pedal.

A knuckle dragging diesel drongo drove in to the car park not realising his car was in a dangerous state and had caught fire. Should have got him to pay for the damage perhaps. Parked in Luton airport last week and surprise surprise not a mention of any worry parking my mobile potentially fire hazard EV. Clearly Luton Airport cared somewhere between a rats ass and a monkey's cuss that it was an EV.

No, you said: Which is saying: "data signals can travel on power cable" - false, does not work at grid scale. BPL articles all mentioned this. and also questioning: "isn't that how smart meters send data back?" - false, all UK smart meter are wireless. 10 seconds fact check on smart meters will find your answer. But you decided to post completely fictional way of things working. Hiding behind a "question" when called out, yet the original post was to not to question but to spread false information on how things work. This the definition of spreading misinformation. Then there's problem of you continuing to spread FUD despite I posted source of information on exactly what information has been exchanged with charge points. The fact is, not bothering to fact check what you write is very irresponsible. You are a bag full of social media conspiracy theory sound bytes.

Mostly, no. It is summer tyres that are suitable for only 3 seasons in the UK. All-season tyres are very suitable for UK winters and they do not lose grip below 7C. All-season tyres are sold in Europe (including the UK). All-weather tires [yes, tires] are sold in North America and not here, and are aimed at a harsher winter climate. Tyre Reviews caters for the North American market as well as the UK market. Hence the all-weather tire reviews you have found there. As for the article from Nokian, the URL begins with'na' - that means it's from Nokian North America. So again, the info is not applicable here.

Step 1. Install the free VW Pre Compiled Database located on the download section of this site to your PC: https://free-speed-cam-updates.web2diz.net/ Step 2. Unzip/extract the files on your PC and copy the contents of the resulting folder onto a SD card. ( Important points to note: Only copy the contents of the main folder i.e. Do not copy the resulting extracted folder named Volkswagen PersonalPOI - just copy the contents that are displayed inside that folder which is a folder named PersonalPOI and a metainfo2.txt file. Delete the readme.txt file as well as that is unnecessary. Also further note that despite trying to use 2 different usb sticks unsuccessfully only an sd card would work for me. I used the sd card which contains my music files but remember to delete the copied files off afterwards as sometimes they may prevent your music from playing and they are no longer required as they have been copied to the internal memory of the Amundsen ). Step 3. Using the "manage memory option" of the nav settings upgrade the software. Step 4. In the "map" settings chose poi categories, scroll to the bottom and the newly added items should be displayed there. Tick these to activate them. Step 5. In the "nav announcement" settings of the nav settings make sure that there is a tick in the "My POI" item. This enables an audible speedcam alert. To sum up - it's pretty easy to do and it's free and there are monthly updates on the site. On the downside - I'm not sure how reliable and up to date the database is as I've already had to manually edit and remove an out of date camera from my location. IMO the audible alert is a bit feeble and can't be changed but it's better than nothing. I'm not too fussed on the camera icons either. I hope this post is of help to others and I would like to thank the contributors of the other threads regarding this topic on this forum from whom I have gained my insight. I have compiled my own version with my preferred choice of speedcam icons limited to UK fixed cameras and traffic light cameras using the VW database on the above site which I've attached below to share if anyone wants them. Remember to only copy the files as per the above instructions. My Uk Speedcams.zip

I've just fitted a RS Reflector Bar to my L&K, which I think improves the rear end appearance. There are 3 parts involved, total cost from my local dealer inc vat - £91.63: Protective bar - 565807423A9B9 - £58.34 ex VAT Reflector - 565945103 - £9.01 ex VAT Reflector - 565945104 - £9.01 ex VAT Fitting does not require the rear bumper to be removed. There is some minor modification involved in the fitting as the reflector studs protrude through the rear of the bar, that is not beyond the means of an average d-i-yer with a 13mm drill and a dremel taking around 1/2 hour, simply because the RS bumper is not quite the same as other Kodiaq rear bumpers. (Yes, it's due a first wash!)

Hi Everyone, New to this forum and new to Skoda. I've got a Superb and will probably have a few questions going forward, previously having Audi, VW, BMW but first time with Skoda in the VAG GROUP

Hello everyone I'm new to the forum and already own my second Skoda. I'm sure I'll have a few questions about the Octavia Mk3 in the future.

👋

Hi and welcome to Briskoda @ulli0824

Have run my wife's 7 years plus Karoq on cheapest E10 since we got it new, been bombproof, as has my nearly 3 year old Kamiq, also run on cheapest E10. My previous car, a 10 year old Ford Focus from new, also ran on E10. Needed front wheel bearings replaced but that was it, and still working fine with a friend of mine 3 years later. In my mind nothing wrong with cheapest E10 😁

Hi Everyone, New to this forum and new to Skoda. I've got a Karoq and will probably have a few questions going forward. Simon

Hi, Simon, welcome. In case you've not seen it on here there's a Škoda Karoq section. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/365-%C5%A1koda-karoq/

Yes i installed it myself and it has own module where i can but if on/off or ajust by clock. It has no connection to car modules or blower motor etc. And it has own temp gauge too. It shows pretty same temps than ecu.

Hi folks Seems this is a known issue - You can call Skoda for a free fix if you mention 'Service campaign 57NL' - Its a software fix in the car that needs Skoda service to fix. Good luck

Looking at the Skoda Octavia 1.6 TDI SE DSG Euro 5 and also the 2.0 TDI SE DSG Euro 5 both 2014/15 with around the 100k mark. Not the petrol models.

Hello Danny, welcome to the forum. With the 2.0 TSI, be aware of possible issues with earlier versions of the EA888 engine - provided you are looking at versions after around 2014, these were (I think) mostly addressed. The 1.4TSI, manual 6-speed is great - you can expect around 50MPG on a decent run easily - and around 40MPG even with fairly short trips without any hypermiling. That said, I wouldn't say no to a 245TSI😄

Really important if looking at a 2.0 TSI or TDI with a DQ250 7 speed wet clutch DSG. @40,000 mile intervals. (1.6 TDI CR will be Cam belt, water pump, but DQ200 DSG with no Servicing schedule.) But are you looking at 1.4 TSI,s with a DQ200 7 speed Twin Dry clutch DSG also with no Oil or Filter Service Schedule for the DSG. Some might have had 1 or both oils replaced, maybe had Warranty work, a MCU or Clutches. (There is a Service Campaign on 2013-2015 DQ200,s, '34H6' started in 2017. A software update., 2009-2012 DQ200 DSG,s a Service campaign from 2014. Synthetic Oil changed to mineral and a software update.

@dacn I sent details in PM @Andymod MST2_EU_SK_ZR_P0480T will NOT work directly on any unit that was manufactured with software different than 04xx (xx - any number). This means it will NOT work directly with 5Q0035874B. There is a way to push MST2_EU_SK_ZR_P0480T into 5Q0035874B but it requires unit to be patched first - google for MIB STD2 TOOLBOX.

I was looking at similar at the beginning of the year. I wouldn't have a problem with the PHEV itself but you really have to be doing the usage cycle that suits the PHEV. If your son can charge at home and does lots of short trips then it may work out. But for me the potential pitfalls of the increased reliability issues, ageing battery packs and my usage steered me down the 2.0TSi 190 route.

Ohme. That's the app you should use. They operate differently to other charge point IOG integrations. But let's start clean, remove car from Octopus app. Remove any charge timers in the car software. Make sure Ohme is connected to IOG: Ohme EVHow do I set up Intelligent Octopus Go?Integrating your Ohme account with the Intelligent Octopus tariff will ensure you get super cheap electricity for any Smart Charging. Ohme should be able to connect to IOG and also your car via cloud to read SoC. I've only read people using it but not used it myself so I don't know the details. From what I can gather, you set everything (charge limit and ready-by time) in the Ohme app and Ohme talks to IOG for you. Octopus Ohme FAQ: https://octopus.energy/blog/intelligent-ohme-faqs/

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Can you please also send me a link for MST2_EU_SK_ZR_P0480T Thanks

It could be that in the future the tax free allowance and the state pension will be linked, if only to save the cost of chasing getting money they pay out back? Maybe that is even the reason 2028 was chosen as the date in the first place?

Wait until you try to use slow chargers at different locations by different companies all using different apps. For home, at least you have control of everything. Let's try to start as simple as possible, only have 1 thing control charging. What tariff are you on? Intelligent Octopus Go? What charge point? What car? (sorry if this was mentioned elsewhere) For me, if I don't use my Home Assistant automations this is what I'd do: I set charge limit in the car as needed, this is optional. I'll tell IOG via Octopus app roughly how much need to add and ready-by time. Plug in if not already. IOG controls my Indra charge point, I only had to do OAuth once during IOG device setup to allow Octopus to control the charge point. Since IOG can integrate with Indra, I've deleted the Indra app. Same for my parents with Zappi on IOG. IOG directly controls Zappi. They leave their car charge limit at 80% and plug in at roughly 30%. They don't even touch the Octopus app, leave it at 60%. Just plug in and wake up to 80% car next morning. But I can't help you with manufacturer's app. So far, my extended experience with 4 brands (Nissan, Tesla, Hyundai, Renault), only 1 is actually intuitive and useful.

@checkmate Maybe invest in an OBD code reader to check for faults yourself? If you find something you can clear it & then see if it comes back next time you have an issue. That then gives you something to go to the dealer with.

I don't think that is going to happen. If you are a 40% tax payer this year. Be prepared in a few weeks after you retire to get a bill for up to £92.10 a week on your state pension for the weeks to the end of the tax year. Because the state pension is not taxed at source

Hmm.... ..

Since in the UK maybe best use the terms in UK English and not USA / North American English. Or other European terms. 'All Season / All Weather' 3 peak / Snow Certificated tyres. Not 'All Season' as in the Summer Bias tyres cars and vans get imported into the UK with, even AWD,s / 4x4,s in many cases. Winter, Snow, Studded, All Terrain, Wet Weather other terms or type names. PS Some of the All Season 3PMSF tyres sometimes come as Run Flats and some are Self Sealing. The Pirelli Cinturato All Season SF are 'sel sealing'.

the bad section was pretty close to the body maybe only an inch left of it before it disappeared inside the hatch and was running out of time so was literally a quick fix to get it working again . plus it was bloody cold and i dont think the soldering iron wouldve held up and done a decent job but hey at least its working for winter

From a Skoda dealership parts department. Should only cost a couple of quid. Will need to look up by reg/VIN as there's lots of variants.

Hello, welcome to the forum. A suitable replacement label should be available from a Skoda parts counter - I had to get one for my Octavia after a panel repair a few years back. Not expensive.

So the problem is the dome button itself. It was burned hard, but i do not know what is the reason. It was heated so much that the solder was loosen and the metal contact plate was fallen till a position where it didn't make contact with the middle position of the switch. So i clear the plate and solder it back and it started to work. [img]

Hello from Melbourne, Australia. Actively looking to purchase my first Skoda, specifically a Superb wagon/estate Sportline model with 2.0 litre turbo (3rd gen). Hoping to read lots of comments/reviews on ownership plus ways to improve aesthetics and performance.

Morning all Been a lurker for a few weeks now I have the car, Superb Mk3 I need to get some questions answered ha Tom

It seems to me that before every Budget there are "official" leaks to test the reaction to proposals being discussed, at least that's what "official sources" (said with a nod and a wink) by political reporters from the major media outlets suggest.

can u send me

Sent in PM

1. format SD (best max 32GB) under FAT32 2. unpack to root (metainfo2.txt and all the folders must be placed directly on SD, not in any folder) 3. insert SD card into the slot 4. enter Service Menu (long press MENU button)

It seems Skoda recently changed the service interval for the Haldex to 2 years (used to be 3 years). And bearing in mind how much gunge was on the gauze filter of my old Superb when I cleaned it after 3 years, it is probably a good idea to make it 2 years! Although why it is a calendar time, not a mileage, I have no idea!

Not so much today, but rather this past weekend, took my Superb on it's first international run. Went to a retro computer show in Munchengladbach, a 700-mile round trip from North West London via the Channel Tunnel, France, Belgium and Holland before getting into Germany. Did the whole trip on one tank of petrol, with 100 miles range to spare. Car reckoned I got 52MPG on the trip.

Gandalf had a downpipe & tunes switched yesterday. 😁 Now running Galano Stage 2, producing 241 kw 516 Nm (at the wheels) on the dyno. i switched ECU and TCU tunes from APR to Galano so i could satisfy my downpipe itch. Green - factory setup with Racing Line Intake and Turbo Inlet Pipe - 178 kw / 380 Nm Blue - APR Stg 1 ECU (Hi-torque) + TCU tunes with Racing Line Intake and Turbo Inlet Pipe - 221 kw / 519 Nm Purple - APR Stg 1 ECU (Hi-torque) + TCU tunes with Racing Line Intake, Turbo Inlet Pipe, IE Intercooler and downpipe - 234 kw / 503 Nm Red - Galano Stg 2 ECU + TCU tunes with Racing Line Intake, Turbo Inlet Pipe, IE Intercooler and downpipe - 241 kw / 515 Nm NOTE: these r "at the wheels" power reading, not the engine.

Not sure if they still do it but check under the boot carpet next to where the spare wheel, if you have one, would be - there may well be a large sticker showing the vehicles options for the factory build which should include the paint code. It's usually a number and a letter e.g. 7Q7Q

Hi Juan - glad you making progress and I hope it behaves well. Your post makes a couple of interesting points.. It makes me think that your VCDS allows the adaption routine and my OBDeleven does not. Maybe I got away without that because I was able to replace the actuator with a pretty much identical one so nothing needed to be recalibrated. I did spend quite a bit of time searching for as near an identical actuator as I could and I guess a garage might not be able to devote the time to that. Also it is interesting that the lack of shim would cause an absolute refusal of the adaption routine, which works apprently OK with the shim. I think Pete makes a valid point as I noted the actual pivot on the gate seemed pretty worn on our engine but I decided to ignore it. Seems to run OK but I guess if much worse it could influence things - I keep thinking that if that shim makes much difference then wear in the pivot probably could as well. I have always been quite happy with the 1.2 but then my other car in recent years has been a 1987 VW T25 and I have adopted a more gentle style of driving in my old age that suits an old van :-) I do think the Yeti was quite a bit more lively than it had been, once I had the new actuator so there may still be an issue with yours if it really is sluggish (at least when it is just you with not much weight in the car). Good luck Greg

Those are the worst services from a wallet-emptying point of view, but positive that there’s a good difference to the car…I hate those services where you spend a few hundred and nothing feels better…

The V70's 15 years old - so it's averaged 2,667 a year: I bought it last year at 33k miles, so I've put 7k miles on it. 1200 of those were the trip last May up to Edinburgh. Gaz

Yes should be fine to drive, I would just keep start-stop disabled in the meantime though. I'm sure there's thousands and thousands of VAG cars out there with replaced batteries that haven't been coded and are running seemingly fine.