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The old girl still polishes up well ....

Hi, I suspect you're not in the UK as trim levels here are not named "Style" and "Ambition", though a bit of Googling indicates these trim level names are used elsewhere and Alasdair1 is probably right about ambition being the lower spec. However I believe (correct me if I'm wrong) here in UK the 2019 would be a Mark3(facelift) and the 2021 would be a Mark4, so different model. Suggest you check this out further before making up your mind. Personally I would have the manual gearbox every time as there are countless reports of issues with DSG if not serviced properly, but then I prefer manual anyway so only a personal opinion. If I'm right about the change of model (apparently in 2020) then this might explain the difference in prices.

Hi, welcome. Sorry much more information is needed to try to help. What warning light has come on and gone off 34 times, what is the warning light for? Look at the car's 'Owners Manal' for the VW terminology for that warning light and what it means). What is happening when the light comes on or is it on at turning the ignition switch on? What causes the lighjt to go off? Do you notice any problem or issue with the car? How long have you owned the car and do you know any of the servicing, maintenance and repair history of the car? You might find it easier to use a translation system to get your post in English. I hope this helps you.

Not sure re wheel arches but check measurment to suspension strut. Had a people carrier with 18" aftermarket wheels which didn't hit arches but had to drop tyre profile to just miss bottom of strut/spring. Wasnt much but went from 225/50/18 to 225/45/18 extra load. Have a look at https://www.wheelfitment.eu/ it lists the kodiak as having 19" wheels as an option and tyre sizes Alasdair

I owned a 2018 Seat Leon FR with 7-speed DSG for 7 years without any problem. Friends have same DSG in Golf, A3 & Octavia of various ages. No problems. The reported problem with that gearbox were in India {far hotter than UK) & problems solved by a change in oil spec. I've just bought a 20 month old Karoq with same DSG. I'll never go back to a manual but I'll won't have DSG without the steering wheel paddles.

Be cautious of looking to buy from VERTU dealership the car I have rejected is : White … (dodgy paint job) VRS 245 NA68 LGJ Sure it’s a great car but too many issues for an approved used.

The coding it is a pain and I’ve had to go that way as like you haven’t been able to find anyone that can help with it, I consider myself to be technically savvy so decided to give it a try with ChatGPT as a helper but I’ve not been able to crack it yet and there seems not to be much info not to mention that the .bin files have encryption as well, but I’ve been able to get pass that bit lol, but am stuck as I said in the understanding what to change I know it is possible as other people have done it is just not documented well enough for me to follow lol, was about to open a post asking when I saw yours and said we might both get some help from people here :) hopefully

Good idea. Im going to do the same!

Oh ok.. Thank you.

Lovely job. Open window, foot down at lower revs is when I really noticed the engine sucking on the air. As the revs rise you lose most of the sound I feel. But I'm fine with that. Subtle rules over everything. 2 things - keep an eye on the coolant hose at the engine block end for weeping. Mine did and a mech noticed it and tightened it. Also, keep an eye on whether the bottom corner of the engine cover rubs on the hose. it might not given yours is a Gen3 and mine is Gen4 but just to put it on the radar.

No worries, thanks so much for the advice already, that's a really helpful guide on the steering wheel. As for the instrument cluster, if I'm unable to find anywhere to swap out the whole thing, I think I will indeed settle on just doing the maxidot change myself like you and thank you for the link to help with that. I hope there is somewhere in the UK that could help with the full cluster upgrade as I would prefer to avoid going the technical and difficult but commendable route that Cachorro is with trying to recode the cluster legally.

You're in the wrong forum this is for those about to buy a Skoda. I will asked a Moderator to consider moving your thread to the Superb Mk3 section (by clicking on the three-dots at top right of posts and selecting 'Report'). HTH.

for the mfsw it's quite easy you can find my guide here: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/538152-replace-steering-wheel-with-mfsw/#comment-5999427 for the maxidot I'm trying to do it my self but it's quite difficult and the material needed is a bit too expensive to do it jus one time for this reason i would like to suggest to look here: https://3dcolormfd.com/ I've contacted them and they do the greendot cluster of the fabia mk2 FL, they offer way more funtion than the maxidot and there isn't the trouble and cost to clone the cluseter parameter as the EEPROM miles or kms alignment key programming and all that come with a cluster swap. For the other things I'm sorry but I'm not uk based so I'm not able to provide advice on who is able to do the job.

You have me confused ASR(?), by Googling comes up with Anti Slip Regulation wihich in the 'Owner's Manual' for my wife's 2015 Fabia is the acronyms of ESC (stability control) or TCS (traction control) warning symbol so nothing to do with MAF (engine Mass Air Flow). You shouldn't generally have any issues with ther MAF at 36,000 miles (average of over 5k-miles per year but that's just an average actually annual mileage could vary a lot). 2109 cars are full of very complex and intertwinned computer systems on top of the mechanical and electrical systems so this adds another layer of complexity to running and repairing the cars and the Germans including VW for many decades back have (over) complicated their system. A small fault in one system can create an issue in another system that may seem unrelated. Whatever warning symbol it is could be a very simple repair or it could be a very expensive and complicated repair and/or perhaps something that reaccures. Unless you have someone with an appropriate level scan tool abnd the knowledge to correctly interpret the report I would suggest you reject the car. Some Briskoda members have such scan tools and are willing to use them on other members cars aften for a beer token only (but not if a professional) so see the map on the following link and see if you are able to contact someone near to you and if they are able to help you. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/262215-list-of-vcds-owners-previously-known-as-vag-com-vcp-owners/#comment-3091029 HTH.

Hi, welcome. I think it might be best if your post is moved to the Octavia Mk2 forum for your question about the oil consumption from other Octavia Mk2 1.8 TSI owners and others. I will asked a Moderator to consider this (by clicking on the three-dots at top right of posts and selecting 'Report'. HTH.

Might be a worn universal joint in column or play in steering rods/ball joints that MOT missed. If you sit in car stationary and look at front wheel when turning slightly how much does the steering wheel turn before wheels move. Alasdair

No mine is style model and the newer model is ambition

What are the advantages of Ghost immobiliser over standard OEM system? The supplier would probably be the best source for answer to your question - but I can't see that it would affect SS, as the vehicle is only on stand-by when SS activates, not fully shut down.

Oh brilliant. From your last message I was thinking Skoda were going to take ages. If you can let you us how it goes with your caravan when you road test it that would be brilliant thank you 😊

having it fitted on this coming Monday , will report back as soon as I've road tested ..

@Evolution13 Yes, it appears the classic defend, deny, deflect strategy is in full flow. Given that no servicing at all is specified, the car should be inspected within a short timescale and unless there has been some drastic alteration done, if the rust came from the inside, Skoda should put the car back to the correct state had it not happened. Preventative measures to rectify the design defect should be included as well. Given that the issue is rust, the timescale should be as soon as the car can be booked in at an appropriate repair centre. I think it is the case that the current state of the law is that manufacturers cannot specify dealer servicing for any part of the warranty. They can ask for evidence, but in the context of this thread, as above, there is no servicing stated in the terms of the body protection warranty anyway.

Decent obd reader should give you the part number causing the fault code or at least point to it by name that you can then interpret.

So, after work, took the opportunity to do something that's been on the back burner for ages: I think it's the first engine performance mod! A RacingLine R600 air intake! Alongside other bits such as: Turbo inlet pipe, and additional bits like a replacement pipe to go underneath the new air box bit. These bits were bought absolutely ages ago, circa March 2024, and have been lying around since. The R600 main bits were £502.93. The turbo inlet pipe was £74.99 and the coolant pipe was £42.94. So the first step is to start removing the original air filter box and inlet. Two screws, and the front should wiggle away: Then used a flat head screwdriver to loosen and pop out the vacuum line from the air box: Then my Knipex pliers to get the clamp off of the air intake pipe: Once the pipe is loosed from the air intake box, the air filter box itself can be removed, as its some rubber grommets over plastic bits: Popped out with effort, and unfortunately: Looks like I got too hamfisted and ripped out one of the plastic bits with the rubber! Guess a new battery tray required... So those bits out so far: Next is to replace the coolant hose with the replacement designed to go under the R600 box. Lots of Youtube videos show coolant going everywhere, and to be honest, I did the same. Got towels and whatnot underneath and just removed and replaced as quick as possible: Got messy so no pics for the other side. Wiped excess and some parts cleaner before the next bit. So dry fitted the bottom part of the R600 box: Just some wiggling really, but noticed the instructions mention attaching rubber grommets to the box before installing them: Sadly, the packaging didn't have any! Plus with the broken plastic bit in the battery tray, kinda stuck for now. I expect rattling until this is sorted I guess. So carrying on, time to remove the air intake from the filter to the turbo inlet pipe: Standard hose clamp, so a 7mm to loosen, and then wiggling to free that pipe: So next is the turbo inlet pipe. There's a hose that needs to be removed, via squeezing and popping it off. Then also a T30 torx bit keeping the pipe in place. Once removed (carefully lest that torx bolt drops into the abyss!), initial attempts to pull the pipe off wasn't fruitful. Turns out it needs some rotating before it pops out: The new one is the reverse. I put a light smear of engine oil on the o-rings that the new RacingLine pipe had, then pushed in and rotated into place: Then carefully put that torx bolt back into place. I tightened it to 12Nm as its an M6 bolt, not sure what the actual figure needed is. On the home straight now. The R600 kit came with a new pipe, so slotted that in alongside the filter itself: Just some wiggling but it eventually all aligns up. Orientation of the pipes and stuff was probably made simple by just looking for the RacingLine logo and making sure that points upwards! Not forgetting the vacuum line: That's pretty much it, on with the top cover: Tighten up all the hoses and bits and that's that: Noticed also that the R600 box didn't have any screws, so decided for now to just take a few from the OEM air filter box and attached them to the R600 box. Will need to source rubber grommets for the R600 box and screws if available. The spoils: So will need to find somewhere for these OEM bits to go, but that's that! Haven't really driven it in anger yet, I'd imagine there probably won't be any major difference really. Am hoping this becomes useful once a remap is involved! Bit annoying that some of the bits were missing, but some Googling has shown replacements are available, so I'll order those, and probably a battery tray as well, so technically some of this will need disassembling once those have arrived. Maintenance: £3285.99 Upgrades: £5338.13 (+£620.86) Miscellaneous: £827.47

With each trip to look at houses being approx 500mile round trip the noise from the tyres (what's been diagnosed as the noise above 65mph) saw-toothing is really quite tiring (my mk2 used to do this too). so... I bought 40sheets of the 2mm Silent Coat sound deadening, covered the boot floor, put some in the boot side panels, put some under the back seat and the inner rear wheel arches & also lined as much of all 4 doors as I could (all covered as much as shown), with the little bits I had left I put them on the roof (not much todo as I have the panoramic roof). Its made a huge difference and glad I spent the time doing this (did it on my mk2 too) I bought a mk3 false floor when I bought the car in August '25 as our cocker spaniel can't see out of the boot without jumping up, just wanted something simple as it will either stay in permanently or just get removed (if more space is needed) so didn't bother with the whole kit and made a simple frame out of spare decking (instead of taking it to the tip).

I know, but the forums are littered with folks claiming higher octane gives them more power (it definitely alters feel and torque demand per throttle %) and MPG. While the energy content is similar between grades (depending on BOB/base stock make-up, ethanol percentage and aromatic/olefin content vs oxygenates), the argument/theory is often that the increased knock-resistance allows timing advance to a degree that permits leaner operation and/or better extraction of underlying BTU. On the 2.0 TSI, it certainly can. On the 1.5 TSI, I think my data is pretty definitive. I don't have any 'evidence' outside of my own data, but I'm not trying to present any. My thread and my testing was about octane in this particular engine. I'm not selling anything, and I don't care either way. I did, however, notice a significant drivability improvement and economy uplift while using Hybrogen, so I commented on it. I also found their other product actively hampered economy, which I also reported. When I removed Hybrogen mid-test, leg MPG dropped and tank averages drop back to my historic ~30 mpg baseline. With it added back, legs improve again and tank averages rise back to mid-30s MPG despite ambient temperatures and routes remaining consistent. That lines up with Oilsyn's claims, but I don't care to push the issue — I'm not selling the stuff! That's just what I've found (time and again).

Both the Dacia and my present Skoda use a 6 speed box, believe it was the lesser spec using 5 speed

Didnt the 95 only have a 5 speed box

good choice

With an impending house move, spending money is hard to justify but this will prove beneficial for the transportation of bikes & allows us to hire a trailer to help with moving and in the longer term allows us to get another horse trailer for the horse. For a lot of years I've used Mobile Towbar Services from Sheffield and today was no different, pleasant/professional team of mobile engineers, well worth considering if you are in the Sheffield/Rotherham/Barnsley area. After lots of deliberation I decided on a TowTrust Swan Neck with 7pin dedicated electrics, I would have liked a detachable tow bar but for practicality this suits our needs much better.

Both my previous Octavia Mk 2's were fine after 7 and 8 years ownership, the current one (Mk 3) is loose and bl**dy annoying. I'm tempted just to break it off, because it is so loose it won't retain the ticket against the screen.

Just a thought but rather than start pulling trims off, depending on how old the car is and how fussy you are, maybe a little clear silicon sealant to hold the clip to the trim? If it works, great. If it doesn't then it's not a problem to slice through it and go down the trim removal route. (I've not had this problem but the car and I have reached an age where we look for simple answers!).

It’s only held on with one screw/bolt. Have fun getting the A-pillar trim off. You’ll want to order some spare clips!

Yes. Normal After a Time Solution, replace

Do also consider the All in plan, you extend the warranty, get two services, two MOTs and breakdown cover.

Did this job on our Fabia estate last summer Jack up drivers side rear wheel and remove wheel - use axle stands or chocks to support as you will be working in the wheel arch Wheel arch liner is held on with 8 or so small torx screws - remove the upper ones first and the lowest ones last as its easier that way - it takes a bit of wriggling to remove but its easy enough The evap filter is held in by one bolt at the bottom - remove this and then slide it down the bracket that holds the top part in place and then remove the clips holding the two pipes in place Refit pipes to new one then refit it into bracket and replace bolt Refitting liner can be a bit awkward but goes back ok with a bit of wriggling Took me around 45 minutes to do without rushing - best of luck

Bought my MY18 Superb Estate from Sam & Andy at AudiSaab back at the end of February. Really love their no nonsense, no pressure approach to selling cars. Phoned up too see it and on arrival (at a rather nice country house) and after a few pleasantries was handed the keys, a trade plate and a plipper to open the electronic gates and basically told to fill my boots. Fast forward to this week when after several thousand miles ( immediately after buying I was on holiday in Scotland) the car has thrown up an EPC error (car is currently on about 127k). Gave them a call and was asked to drop her off and they would get their guys to sort it (currently still with them). Didn't actually seem them however Andy messaged me with a PIN for the gate and said there was a blue Audi A3 on the drive with the keys in the doorcard, just leave mine in its place (directly behind a nice Ferrari as it happened) with the keys also in the door card. https://www.audisaab.co.uk/