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So i did 120 miles for £3. Then i put in £7 charging. Then another £19 and have done 170 miles. Now at 98%. Showing 175 mile range but in my 160 miles to get home i will put in a £5 charge on the way. So £34 for 330 miles and there will be maybe 30 miles range once home. No charging issues with last 2 chsrges @ 65 pence and 55 pence a kWh. Real life EV travel like this maybe half the time, or more when using familiar charging places. When it is crap experiences is often when in a hurry ,or during bad weather and when i lesst want the hsssle. A 300 mile plus range and home charging is obviously more sensible than a low range BEV. EDIT. Stopped for dogs to stretch legs, plugged in for 5 minutes and put in 4 kWh. £2.69. Got home with 30 miles range. (Average speed including stop 50 mph. Half was Motorway.)

My recent home charge to 100% gave a result of 100%/274 miles. The miles seems to be creeping up. I suspect this is a combination of the car intelligently monitoring my driving style (I'm now getting an average 3.9/4.0 mi/kWh) and perhaps the battery needs some time to settle down into my charging routine. Anything else?

I think we can take as a given in order that they can balance the grid more but I can also see that as people shift their usage times to take advantage of the lower prices on offer, those price will slowly be withdrawn. The grid will then become tuned to the demand and they will fail to keep on top of the supply. In other words we will always be claiming that demand is greater then supply to justify higher prices, and so the circle of life begins again.

It should do. If the car doesn’t know what the front wheels are doing, it won’t let you engage park pilot properly, etc.

Find a competent workshop... the ABS sensor is one of two components that measure wheel speed. The sensor is located at the wheel bearing where the ABS disc is integrated. In such cases, a diagnostic drive is performed to check the sensors and avoid replacing parts haphazardly.

You're being bent over. For some bizarre reason Skoda's pricing changes by vehicle age. At my local dealer, which seems mid-priced, a fluid change on a 2-year-old car costs £65. The same fluid change on a 4-year-old car costs £91. So a 40% premium for exactly the same job on exactly the same car. Find yourself an indy to do it.

I've read on these forums that you can't even give these ABS magnetic rings a sideways glance without causing them damage - but now that you have been able to actually see a bearing with hopefully a magnetic ring on its inner face - you've probably worked out that usually they are able to look after themselves okay. If you feel the need to clean these wheel sensor bores up a bit better, what I'd do - and I did when working on both my wife's Polo and my S4, was to record the depth that should be safe for you to run a 10mm drill down - remember that these sensors are only "full size" for part of their length, follow any reaming with the drill bit with maybe brake cleaner to wash the crap out and away while rotating the hub. Just hopefully a worthless question - did you make sure that both hub-bearing assemblies had ABS sensor magnetic rings on the inner face of these bearings - maybe not too easy to spot? Maybe even confirm this by checking the actual part numbers from their packaging. Now if you had access to a "good" VAG compliant scan tool, you could "watch" each wheel's road speed - to see if it was correct and consistent. Edit:- actually seeing as you know it is the front right hand side ABS sensor, you must have a scan tool, sorry for making that error.

The dealer I use was so mortified by me refusing the 2yr brake fluid change that they did it anyway FOC. They also replaced the a/c compressor under warranty as it was noisy, so I didn;t get asked about having it regassed. The new one is just as noisy mechanically but doesn't screech (which I think may have just been the gas being low), and the one on the courtesy car (same car as ours) was noisy too. Our Ateca and Kamiq have silent a/c. Anyway, it's going in next week for its 4yr service and I was contacted today and asked about having them done for the bargain price of £199. Gulp. On it's own they said they'd do the brake fluid for £80 instead of the normal £100. Where on earth do these price come from - £100 to change the brake fluid seems insane! It also really hacks me off that the car has All In, and yet All In is anything but!

Today again there is talk of concerns over Energy Security and attacks on infrastructure in the UK by terrorists or enemies of the state. What seems to be an issue is Battery Storage and how easily that can be attacked physically or by Internet. Just like the Pipelines then for Oil / Gas / LNG / Aero fuel, marine fuel & road fuels and depots for these. But then it has always been so. Substations vulnerable also. But what very quickly would bring the UK or just London to it's knees would be attacks on drinking water and sewage infrastructure. All so much sh!te to deal with. Such a lot of the 4 countries infrastructure owned by other than the UK, and money out and not enough back in. On the horizon is El Nino. Brace yourself.

Mine stopped working a year ago, I gave up using it. Car went in for a service this week and after investigation a control unit was replace under warranty, let’s see how long it lasts!

Brake fluid used to be first @ 2 years then each 2. About 2010 changed to first @ 3 years then each 2. Since the VW Emissions Scandal things changed to First @ 2 years then every 2 years. Customers are the Goose that keep laying Golden Eggs.

You do know more than you think. Hinges, for example, are ancient technology and white lithium or black molybdenum grease will be perfectly fine. On very dry joints I might spray a little thinner grease to help the heavier stuff get in. Wipe off excess afterwards and you're done. The thinner grease I have to hand is Wurth HHS 2000. Good penetration and good adhesion / durability - something WD40 doesn't have. Bonnet release catches are regularly checked but door / boot locks hardly ever unless I notice stiffness. Sunroofs are tricky things with many different requirements. Here's a summary from Krytox of all the challenges you face. ISTR the VW Eos convertible had issues with its roof which were only ameliorated by liberal use of a Krytox product (at vast expense when branded by VW). Dow Corning do make a special lubricant for this kind of application but very hard to find any retail quantities (Molykote G-1033). grease oil lubrication sunroof systems.pdf

Just realised this has gone in the wrong forum. I cannot see a way of deleting it. My apologies.

Yes, brake fluid should get done, the AC could wait until it lets you know by starting to underperform and/or makes hissing noises when being used. I'm sure that someone out there will have fuel use figures that can show that slightly under gas'd AC will use slightly more fuel, when used, to achieve your desired temperature - but how many miles you would need to travel to use the slightly increased fuel before that meets or exceeds the cost of a "AC regas" I would not even try to guess! So, if I were you, I'd stick with "is it good enough right now?" if the answer is yes, then give it another year before asking yourself the same question. Edit:- by the way, all car HVAC systems do leak slightly over time down to the different parts being connected using "rubber" piping which, to all these AC gases, are porous to a certain extent - not much can be done to stop that until more suitable piping or AC gas is used.

Welcome! Thankfully the stigma from that era is all but gone. I’ve only had my wife and mother-in-law (both non-drivers) raise an eyebrow when I first got a Skoda, as they had heard all the jokes but obviously no idea (or interest) in the history post VW acquisition. That’s a fantastic motor you’ve got there, enjoy!

It's not a rocket science, can be done relatively easily at home.

Lots of work done last few days Pics out of order a bit but: Engine bay cleaned down, new coolant bottle on, darkside braided clutch line on. New caliper sanded, primed and painted Came out very well for once. Whiteline rear anti roll bar off, keeping it for the SDi. H&R bar is non adjustable, but powder coating seems fantastic on it vs the whiteline, have to say the clamps for the bushes were a bit of a nightmare to install. Bits of rust treated and painted up. Standard dual mass 4pc kit gone one, new slave cylinder, bolted up lovely Foreshadowing Swapped out the shifter for the one out of the SDi originally, as it was in better shape than the one in my car, in spite of being 11 years older than the car, and having more miles. no matter what I did to it, I could never get it to feel as tight as I wanted it to. Shifters are different but bolt up the same, otherwise fit and work the same, figure I can get a new bush for the SDi shifter and be golden. Had solid shifter bracket bushes and was able to work my solid cable end bushes on the 6 speed. It works, and it feels fantastic. New bleeder for the clutch also, it's bled up perfect, and feels brilliant so far. Brakes all bled fine etc Starter connector is different, easy to swap them considering I had both cars to hand. Currently stuck waiting for hardpipes, standard boost pipe no longer fits because the 6 speed is that much bigger, no way of working it and I did try. Also found a pinhole in my downpipe Least it's not split fully at the welds. Seeing if I can just get a replacement top piece vs welding it, again. Changed the gear oil on the box too. And pulled the vrsdi asunder for its subframe. Painting the subframe from the monte became a mess, it will not stick, and paint stripper just turned it into a sticky gooey mess, horrible. Plus is it'll be back on its caster increase bushes, and I get my wishbone ducts back. Not far from being done But still a bit left to do. Couple other trick things, least I have time to sort some of them given it's gonna be down for a while longer. Forget if I ever did a modlist, but I'll do one up after this. Power will be whatever the injectors are capable of, but cross that bridge when it comes to it.

Yes

Ues oem oils gearbox oil part number is G055 512 A2 takes 1.8L The mechatronics oil part number is G 004 000 M2 takes 1L The drain plugs are on the bottom of the gearbox m14 for the gearbox one and m6 for the mechatronics one i think can't remember Need to remove the battery and air box and dust cap at the back of the gearbox by the selector unit and the one by the starter motor for the mechatronics there is a fill plug for the mechagronics but you will need to remove the starter motor to access it how I change my oil I got a one liter bottle with a screw cap and a long hose and filled it that way it's not a hard job but you'll need to take a couple hours to do it right but oils a bit slow going in the gearbox and the mechatronics unit

Could be a flaky wheel speed sensor or ring causing intermittent gaps as all those are reliant on vehicle speed.

Hi Terry, my son recently had same issue on his 2021 Superb, he had driven over some bumpy roads and got the same caption. We couldn't get to the radar unit from the top, so took the front bumper off, a few screws but quite straightforward, left all electrics connected. Radar unit is secured to the back of the grill in the centre, it was all secure, electrics sound. Refitted bumper and Carried out system reset using OBD 2 plus pro VW package, all ok since 2 weeks. Follow YouTube "ACC Calibration at home" some guy recalibrated it on his Audi. When we checked our radar unit the Vertical Angle was reading 1.743, max is 0.8 degrees. Skoda along with many other manufacturers have this recurring problem, it doesn't help matters fitting the Radar unit on a plastic flexible front bumper trim. There's lots on You Tube. Hope this helps!

It looks something like this.

I don't wish to dampen your enthusiasm but over bright rear lights are a contravention of the Road Vehicles Lighting Regulations 1989 in the UK. I'm not sure of the legal position in India - perhaps you should check this ?

As above, they started showing up from MY19 onwards, with the 280/272 Superb. Though in some markets, they continued to get the DQ250 for a few more years. DQ250 is DSG-6 wet clutch. DQ381 is DSG-7 wet clutch

Nothing fancy - just the usual S U P E R B boot badge, with each letter placed on a 2cm L-shaped metal bracket, then super glued inside a honeycomb.

hello everyone. please Help me to find this center led brake light. it will be huge help!!

Look for RCD 330 / RCD 360 units with green backlight. Or MIB STD2 PQ series.

Obviously it makes quite a difference how tall or short someone is who is driving, and if the seat is far back or forward and pumped up or down, or whatever.