Leaderboard

What he said ^ You accepted the terms at the point of sale. I’m not saying you don’t have an argument, but I highly, highly doubt they’re going to take the car back because of a missing key. Have you contacted them? That’s probably what I would do. It’s easier for them to sort a problem when they know they have one to fix.

I think that was the opportunity to reject the vehicle, or at least get it recorded in the paperwork that they would either forward it on when found or get you another. Once you have accepted one key it is difficult to complain, unless there is something wrong with the car.

As far I'm aware none of the car manufacturers advertising TMC as part of navigation system when you add it to your car while placing order, instead they offer free trial of online services which are paid after free trial period.

Makes me wonder where the camera would draw it's power from?

A problem could arise if the contract was signed accepting one key only as part of the sale.

Yes Lee. Heating and only on the outer seats too. They’ve never produced a Superb with cooled rear seats as there’s no gap under the seat base to fit the fans or to allow the disposal of the air. The system draws the air through and thereby away from the seat base rather than blowing it through, which what the wife’s Kona EV does.

Tell them to sort a second key and get it all (including the key you've got and the immobiliser) recoded.

Hi, It happened twice now that I walked past my parked and locked Mk IV Octavia and I noticed that the infotainment system was on and the radio playing. Anyone had this before? Both times it was on a sunny day, so quite warm inside the car. Is there any way so that the infotainment system can only be switched on with a key present? Car is from Sep 2020 with 1941 software version. Thanks, Peter

Hi, I'm coming from an older Octavia and looking potentially at a Karoq or Kodiaq. The Octavia was great in that you could change various settings as best suited (including any driver aids) and the car permanently remembered. I'm aware that the new EU regs (that we have copied) have mandated a different approach (settings revert to scratch for each journey). With effect from ~2022-2024 depending on how respective brands have chosen to implement it? Do any of you guys know what the cut-off points are for the two cars above, ie, when these two models above enforced the new EU regs? I was under the impression (from a local dealer) that for the Karoq it was potentially all models post the new face-lift at the start of 2022? Depending on whether the hardware was in place for a particular model (which could then be updated via software)? But I've no idea for the Kodiaq? Is it perhaps similar in that it's the new model which is the cut-off point? Ie, this model Mk1 (on this sub-forum) is fine, but avoid the Mk2? Or is it different - perhaps just date driven? It'll potentially save me otherwise wasted time on searches / exploring if I can get the broad timings right? Ie, which more current versions to steer clear of. Many thanks.

Hi, my name is Nick and I live on the west side of the Netherlands, about 15 minutes away from Schiphol. In September 2025, I bought a Skoda Scala 1.0 Sport Business from 2023, to replace my Opel Corsa D from 2007 with 220k KM, which was still running and driving good. I bought the Scala with 35000 KM, and found out that the battery was broken after I just got home and want to drive somewhere. It was solved under warrenty. Right now the car has 48xxx KM's and I'm very pleased with it's performance, fuel economy and handling. I just registered on this forum to browse around for tips and trics. Kind regards, Nick

I guess these days everyone has to err to the side of caution - in the "old days" the advice would probably been "we can give it a try and see how you get on" and 95% of the time the tyre would be fine and in the 5% of cases we would have shrugged our shoulders and said it was worth a try. Nowadays the 5% would probably end up as a law suit as failing in duty of care. It's the world we live in. I did check Kwik-Fit on line so knew they were comparatively expensive but when the technician phoned to tell me I'd need a new tyre I said I'd be wanting two but at that price Kwik-Fit weren't competitive and really expected a "Let's see what we can do, what prices are you looking at" and an offer in the same ball park as everyone else. But the price was the price so the sale has gone elsewhere. Maybe for Kwik-Fit no sale is better than a sale with a smaller profit because I can't see they would be paying more for tyres than their competitors. And if Kwik-Fit had come back with a revised figure within a few pounds of the Halfords price I'd have got the tyres there - Kwik-Fit is convenient for me and I'm now of an age where getting the absolute lowest price isn't important to me; I just don't want to feel I've paid way over the odds.

@enoktakenokta , have you seen this? https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/434028-tire-pressure-monitoring-system/

Well it's arrived...

Hi, I was looking for the latest firmware update for my Scala (MIB3 Bolero). I had problems where the unit would sometimes reboot by itself spontaneously. The Bolero had the following system details: SW Train: MEN3_EU_SK370_P2345L MU SW: 1790 I didn't want to take the risk of bricking the unit, so I made an appointment with the dealership. They told me that they weren't sure if an update would fix the problem, but they were happy to diagnose it for me. So I left the car yesterday at the dealership and they gave me a rental car. This morning, I got a call that the car was ready. They diagnosed that the unit had faulty software on it. They replaced it with the correct software with MU SW: 1800. I didn't had to pay anything, it was free of charge, and I gave the rental car back. Now the unit is working flawlessy. Kudos to the dealership and Skoda Netherlands.

It is possible to fit an aftermarket direct TPMS system - although I'd not consider it worth the cost. In my experience with a number of slow punctures, the indirect (ABS) system is accurate enough. Tyre pressure checks should be part of regular driver routine, along with fluids.

Could be air in system or a failing master/slave but my sons mk1 1.2htp clutch totaled its self at around that mileage. No warning or slipping just no drive suddenly. Clutch kit wasn't expensive but labour might be unless you can do it yourself plus doubt clutches are covered warranty wise. I did his myself and changed slave at same time for around £150. I assume its a car dealer so maybe see if they will cover a new clutch as well or reduce price accordingly. Old style cable operated clutches bite point got higher as the cable stretched but hydraulic if the bite point is high its either a worn clutch or air in system. Alasdair

I got Kodiaq 2017 and trully happy that is not connected to manufacturer server 24/7, not going to cry for lack of TMC, there is always solution 😅. But was funny when I drove last weekend and see huge traffic on the way to Cornwall, was wondering why is that, now I know 😂

This isnt helpfully for the forum. I too would like this info.

Any sign of water in the sump? Rising oil level? I'd be a bit suspiscious of the diagnosis if you have white smoke coming out of the exhaust.

Thanks for your further thoughts. I inflated the tyre to 40psi and then dropped it to my usual 33psi and all seemed well for a couple of short runs. Then I had to make a longer trip along the A27 between Havant and Chichester, the direct route but for about 8 miles it has no junctions. About half way along the tyre noise ominously changed and by the time I was able to get safely out of the carriageway the pressure had dropped to just over 20psi. Took the wheel to Kwik-Fit for a repair only to be told it wasn't repairable; in this case I had unknowingly run the tyre flat for about 100m when I drove out of the drive and back in on that first day so I can believe that the sidewalls had been damaged although I'm surprised how these days so many punctures "can't be fixed" and you have to have a new tyre. More regulation than in the old days perhaps? Not the end of the world, the rear tyres had both been picked up at MOT in May as advisory because of a deep cut through the tread but not to the cords and I was down to around 3mm of tread so I'm changing them both tomorrow. What did surprise me was the range of prices quoted - for me Halfords were nearly £100 cheaper than Kwik-Fit although my wallet will still be £350 lighter by tomorrow night. (A couple of other sites were very close to the Halfords price so Kwik-Fit were very much the outlier). The bill would have been higher if I had 17" rather than the "special" 16" wheels as the larger tyre comes in £25-£30 dearer per tyre. So thank you those early members on this forum that let me joining the 16" Special Wheels Club back in 2013.

MY17 Superb here - as already mentioned above, heating only available for the rear seats. only front seats get heating and cooling.

The A4 is longer - it’s only a bit longer than the Octavia in total length, but the wheelbase is a good 10cm longer. All of this aside, am I missing something? Why are we trying to fit OEM A4 sideskirts to a Skoda Octavia? There are options out there that are designed to fit the car. Sure, you can do it, but if you try hard enough, you can also fit 22” 11J Vossen wheels while you’re at it.

Ah that’s annoying. This is the kodiaq one from the same brand as I used: https://a.aliexpress.com/_EQe9mI6

I bought a similar module from Ali too. But I never succeeded in making it work. Initializing process always failed. Fortunately it was quite cheap… It then finished in the bin… 🤷‍♂️

Ours is 71 plate. Bought September 2021. Very early facelift mk1. And has no driver aids other then front assist for crash prevention. I guess this was probably the last of the models without them as it’s close to yours @Bap33 in age. I haven’t tried disabling start stop. But I have used a module from AliExpress in my superb which works very well. Have you considered that?

They are worth quite a bit of money, those things. They look and sound tremendous on the rare occasion I've seen one. Well done to the owner for not parking it up in a garage as an investment

Not sure about the first locking but all subsequent lockings where because you unlocked it but didn't open the door.

There you go...

Seriously - being in the industry - you must be stark raving bonkers to think that full self driving vehicles are 'the near future' for much of the population. Yes there are a few places where they are being trialled but not without faults / problems and only in very small geographical areas. Whilst the industry (and certain well known billionaires) are prone to make extravagant claims they don't currently stack up and don't reflect reality. There is then the issue of interior cleaning / sterilisation etc. between users (eg the drunk coming home from the pub who throws up int he back, or the person going to the hospital with a contagious disease). Add to the above a human being's natural self preservation instinct and lack of trust, plus the differing nature of many parts of the UK (many don't live in cities which are where full self drive will be commercially viable) and we're decades away from it.

Never mind, I found it with some extra googling and a little help from the AI we all hate.

^^^ If getting only 6 hours offpeak tariff then with a 3 pin AC charge cable you can get near 15 kWh in that time, so maybe 60 miles of range. The normal home tariff might be near 1/2 that of the cost of a kWh at public chargers.

I'm 8 months in to Elroq 85 ownership from previous 2.0TSIs in different forms. It's fantastic. Really comfortable, the range has never been an issue. Range in summer at 100% is above 300, and in the deep winter around 240-250. We've gone further afield twice now - as long as you use some basic common sense to plan your charges, it's no issue. I first drove EV in 2023 as my dad had one as a business lease and the public charging infrastructure has completely transformed even since then. I would argue that potentially no home charging is a big deal; public charging prices whilst still cheaper than petrol, will hamper any savings on fuel. Also, it's big. And heavy. It rides really well; I'm on the standard Sportline suspension, but you just can't escape the weight. We also have a Cupra Born with the 59kwh battery; that is a lot more fun and hides its weight better, helped by the smaller battery. In terms of trim, Sportline comes very well equipped. Driver package (DCC) would be recommended just to soften the ride further. Having Sportline also reduces the price of the extra packs; if I were given the choice, I'd spec the Advanced package too. It brings a lot of extra goodies including the HUD which you might think is a gimmick, but it's absolutely brilliant on our Born and helps to avoid looking at the small drivers display screen for speed/limits/ACC & Nav info.

Works if the tyres are though 🤣

Other than alloy wheel corrosion requiring scrubbing the wheel and resealing, which normally gives a slow puncture effect ! I've had that on a few older Subarus.

'Keep it simple stupid.' Or if you have to implement compulsory features do the R&D and have stuff fit for purpose. VW might for VW or Audi, and not for Skoda or SEAT.

@ Lee01 He meant keeping it simple....

@skomaz Yes, I've heard that with different brands, which seems eminently more sensible - one button simply to remember your prior settings (or even by driver) - but I'm not sure VW group (except perhaps for Audi?) take that more intelligent approach, and I have generally liked Skodas.

KISS or KESSY? Are these two different things?

Just so you are aware it is probably also worth checking whether any newer vehicles can have a shortcut added to the settings profiles. I've had Peugeot and Nissan hire cars recently that have had this such that one press on a button switched off a number of these mandatory settings.

@PWX01 Are you in the UK or elsewhere in Europe? As far as i am concerned, i pretty much like the KISS and pre 2024 first registered cars in the UK. But not all 2024 on are a PITA and in need of switching off or disabling compulsory features. Best thing to do IMO is test drive what it is you plan on buying, and do not assume a near identical vehicle will function or have the identical functions / features.

Cairus, Thanks - that's an entirely new rabbit hole for me! Avocet, Thanks for the very detailed answer, and I understand the complications. In summary, and this is subtly different (and I may have been less clear with the original question): If I can switch it off, and it stays switched off (unless I choose to switch it back on), then that's actually what matters to me. A 10 year old Octavia has some of this stuff - drowsiness alert for example - that was one of the first things I got rid of: it was uselessly inaccurate! The brake warning system (just a warning), despite the occasional false alarms, I judged to have more merit (it's possible to be temporarily distracted by something at just the wrong moment on a very busy road). But in each case it should be the driver's decision. On the older car, that is the case. What I can't tolerate is the idiocy of being forced to configure settings individually from scratch every time I get into the car. Could I (broadly) assume that both the Kodiaq and the Karoq prior to the facelifts (ie, Kodiaq Mk1, and Karoq up to 2022 or whatever the date was) are probably fine on both counts (remembering settings and SFD 2)? Or - to ask my question above differently (re the settings): Have people here using the Mk1 Kodiaq had problems themselves - or heard of problems - wrt user settings no longer being remembered? If not, then that presumably answers that question, at least here wrt the Kodiaq? The Certificate of Conformity - thanks again. Two elements here, a) what I initially narrow any search to, which is the above, and then b) DD once I see something I like. That Certificate looks like b) , ie something prior to buying. Along with physically checking... Ie, change some "driver aid" settings, switch off - come back and switch back on... Just now reading your reply to Lee01 - that's the crux of my question. Which versions have user settings that are remembered, and which more modern versions have now failed that test....

Thank you. That's the impression I got after a detailed discussion with a Skoda salesperson we spoke to on Wednesday. Bit off putting for me tbh.

A lengthy and detailed reply. Thank you. Do you know if some or even all of them can be permanently disabled at the owners discretion and what the implications would be with zB insurance and the TüV?

I personally would buy a vehicle without SFD 2.

Avoid AC like the plaque. Find an Automatic Gearbox Specialist then. Just not the one near Sherwood Garage (Car sales) Baillieston Rd. £375 should include the filter changed. I do not know these below. But there must be someone good someplace.

Hello thanks for swift reply. Yes your spot on it is DQ381 ACT FWD. My car gearbox light did flash up few weeks ago but just vanished and never came back so here i am searching for answers... arnold clark want £688 for a full DSG service😤 Henrys skoda want £375 but they are saying filter doesnt need done yet they're sytems schedule is at 75000miles

Welcome to the forum. Is it a 1.5 TSI ACT Front Wheel drive? If a DQ381 then according to Skoda /VW it is at 80,000 miles and the filter not til 2nd service & 160,000 miles. But best go with 40,000 miles, and the filter then and at each service. AI has it wrong according to the VW Group Schedule but for once wrong for the better. IMO.

So, after work, took the opportunity to do something that's been on the back burner for ages: I think it's the first engine performance mod! A RacingLine R600 air intake! Alongside other bits such as: Turbo inlet pipe, and additional bits like a replacement pipe to go underneath the new air box bit. These bits were bought absolutely ages ago, circa March 2024, and have been lying around since. The R600 main bits were £502.93. The turbo inlet pipe was £74.99 and the coolant pipe was £42.94. So the first step is to start removing the original air filter box and inlet. Two screws, and the front should wiggle away: Then used a flat head screwdriver to loosen and pop out the vacuum line from the air box: Then my Knipex pliers to get the clamp off of the air intake pipe: Once the pipe is loosed from the air intake box, the air filter box itself can be removed, as its some rubber grommets over plastic bits: Popped out with effort, and unfortunately: Looks like I got too hamfisted and ripped out one of the plastic bits with the rubber! Guess a new battery tray required... So those bits out so far: Next is to replace the coolant hose with the replacement designed to go under the R600 box. Lots of Youtube videos show coolant going everywhere, and to be honest, I did the same. Got towels and whatnot underneath and just removed and replaced as quick as possible: Got messy so no pics for the other side. Wiped excess and some parts cleaner before the next bit. So dry fitted the bottom part of the R600 box: Just some wiggling really, but noticed the instructions mention attaching rubber grommets to the box before installing them: Sadly, the packaging didn't have any! Plus with the broken plastic bit in the battery tray, kinda stuck for now. I expect rattling until this is sorted I guess. So carrying on, time to remove the air intake from the filter to the turbo inlet pipe: Standard hose clamp, so a 7mm to loosen, and then wiggling to free that pipe: So next is the turbo inlet pipe. There's a hose that needs to be removed, via squeezing and popping it off. Then also a T30 torx bit keeping the pipe in place. Once removed (carefully lest that torx bolt drops into the abyss!), initial attempts to pull the pipe off wasn't fruitful. Turns out it needs some rotating before it pops out: The new one is the reverse. I put a light smear of engine oil on the o-rings that the new RacingLine pipe had, then pushed in and rotated into place: Then carefully put that torx bolt back into place. I tightened it to 12Nm as its an M6 bolt, not sure what the actual figure needed is. On the home straight now. The R600 kit came with a new pipe, so slotted that in alongside the filter itself: Just some wiggling but it eventually all aligns up. Orientation of the pipes and stuff was probably made simple by just looking for the RacingLine logo and making sure that points upwards! Not forgetting the vacuum line: That's pretty much it, on with the top cover: Tighten up all the hoses and bits and that's that: Noticed also that the R600 box didn't have any screws, so decided for now to just take a few from the OEM air filter box and attached them to the R600 box. Will need to source rubber grommets for the R600 box and screws if available. The spoils: So will need to find somewhere for these OEM bits to go, but that's that! Haven't really driven it in anger yet, I'd imagine there probably won't be any major difference really. Am hoping this becomes useful once a remap is involved! Bit annoying that some of the bits were missing, but some Googling has shown replacements are available, so I'll order those, and probably a battery tray as well, so technically some of this will need disassembling once those have arrived. Maintenance: £3285.99 Upgrades: £5338.13 (+£620.86) Miscellaneous: £827.47

MoT all passed, so all good on that front! Gonna post some stuff I've collected randomly as part of long term planning and hoarding. That way, I can add them to the cost tally before I totally forget! So I've had this tucked away for a while now: An aluminium subframe. Got it for £100 from eBay more than a year ago! The ad said its from an Audi RS3, but to be honest, but be from anything from Golf R to anything related. Because it's aluminium, I've pretty much left it out in the garden come rain or shine, but I've given it a quick rinse and wipe over, as I'm planning for this probably end of summer or early autumn. I should probably price up the other related bits, but I'll leave that for when I start tackling this in earnest, as essentially every bolt is replaced, let alone other bits like wishbones and ball joints, etc. I also found this on eBay that I couldn't resist: Virtually an entire rear axle. This was £165.75, and as you can see, even has the rear pad carriers and discs attached. The ad said it was from a Golf R, and given the colour of the rear pad carriers, didn't have much reason to argue against this. It's not immaculate, but only has a few bits of rust around the subframe and arms, nothing that a slathering of hammerite or somesuch would help with. Took three of us to hoist this into the rear boot, and with just myself at home once back, didn't have much choice but to start disassembling it to make it less bulky: Was a case of slowly attacking the bolts with impacts and whatnot until arms, hubs and other bits were all separated out. It's a lot easier with a free floating subframe and parts that haven't rusted to buggery! Once it was virtually the subframe after a hour or so, plonked it into the house: Wife isn't particularly chuffed with this arrangement, so I'll probably have to consider giving it a quick clean and then probably buy some shrink wrap or something and wrap it up so it can be left outside or something. Complete madness on my part, but given replacement arms are a few hundred pounds, let alone a subframe in good condition, I couldn't resist. Whether I genuinely brave disassembling the rear of the car, and the all the inevitable chassis/body clean up as a result of that, I don't know, but having this around hopefully simplifies the reassembly stage, and if not, I can probably sell it on. Got some other bits I could probably start doing this evening, mainly as this looks like the last nice sunny day before the weather turns for the weekend. Maintenance: £3285.99 (+£165.75) Upgrades: £4717.27 (+£100) Miscellaneous: £827.47

I have fixed it. I stripped the cowel off the steering column. You need a no 25 star drive. Undo the screw on the underside of the column. Then unclipped the upper section, it will flip up. You will see two more screws, remove these and the lower section can be taken out the way. There are two silver small screws infront if the stalk base, take these out. Unclipped the surround round the stalk, it has two clips infron and the circle of plastic round the slake comes free. Split the stalk with a small flat head screwdriver. The back comes off. You can now wangle the wires out. Unplug it from the column, a small clip and pull. You can now join the broken wires and reassemble. Use a crimp if you have one but don't join at the break, this is where pressure is and it passes through the stalk. The wires are too short and so they are tight against the plastic. I used the smallest electrical block connector, shaved off the excess plastic so it fitted in the stalk and used a bigger one at the other end where there is loads of room.