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Been having no luck trying to capture the lightning and finally got one!

Having owned two Sportlines and driven a few others, I take the view that the two best options are: - Dynamic Chassis Control. It makes a real contribution to taming the appalling road surfaces that are so common now; - LED matrix headlights. Magical technology at its best. All headlights should be like this and one day maybe they all will be.

Hi all, many thanks for all your responses. 10 months and about 7-8 garages and electricians later, I managed to get it fixed! I thought I'd post on here in case someone (like myself) tries to search the internet for answers. The issue was caused by a broken ECU to TCU wire, which was bypassed with an overlay wire. The error code was cleared and the issue hasn't repeated since.

Yes, just looked that 50a is for heated windscreen which mine hasn’t got. Thinking about it, that spare 80a might be for connecting high load 12v stuff for converting them to emergency vehicles for example, or maybe it is a common fuse box for all VW group stuff including Porsche, Audi etc and it is easier for the robots to just make it with that 80a fuse. @AGFalco the stud doesn’t look connected, it doesn’t touch the fuse strip and looks like it needs the nut to make a connection.

What he said ^ Everything has been superseded by G12 Evo although, to be fair, I would personally just use what the car left the factory with, unless it’s a G13 car. If you Google it, there is a chart for mixing that shows what you can, and can’t, mix together.

Hello everybody Im new member and English isn't my mother's language so I apologise for possible spelling and other mistakes. I'm from Czech Republic, same as Škoda and those cars were with me whole my life.In total 12 Škodas that I can remember. 3 months ago my beloved Octavia mk3,2.0 TSI,vrs was stolen and crashed afterwards and as much as I wanted to replace it with the same car ,my current financial situation didn't allowed it.I been looking everywhere for cheap one,even damaged and came across the Rapid Monte Carlo 1.2 tsi,2017,with 101000km .Race Blue.Good looking little car with even smaller engine. My previous 2.0 tsi was tuned to 350Bhp and I have to say it's very long step backwards. But I believe in Tsi engines potential but have no experience with 1.2 tsi at all. I will be very greatfull for any advice about how to reach 160-170 Bhp without destroying the engine and my wallet. I already ordered cool air intake,fit the new spark plugs and done the service with timing belt kit and C3 5W40 NanoDrive engine oil.Im ready for remap but I don't know how far I can get with factory Turbo?I need advice about possible replacement or rebuilding original.Thank you and sorry for such a long reading. Hope you don't get bored in the middle

This evenings task was to get out the cardboard spray booth again. This time painting parking sensors for the front sensor retrofit project. I used the punch for the bumper to cut holes in a small cardboard box and taped them in place as an easier way of masking up the sensors. The loom has also arrived but is missing the 18 pin plug and is for LHD so some wires also need extending.

@NDW89 mine had that and still has vaccum the same way as you describe, my problem was that it made a whistling noise which dissapeared when i oppened oil filler cap. Also in cold weather i had a lot of white smoke from the exhaust which reduced substantialy after pcv change. UPDATE: Problem solved by changing haldex pump and clutch assembly. All was done under warranty. Test for this was to remove the haldex fuse from under steering wheel and do a test drive, which i have found on other forum. My haldex pump filter inside was filled with debris (as factory procedure does not include cleaning of the filter located on the pump, that caused pump motor to burn out and draw a big ammount of current but not enough to burn out a fuse. My haldex clutch plates were severely deformed and were binding even when the fuse was removed creating physical resistance which triced tcu and ecu. Reccomendation on various internet pages say that this pump filter should be cleaned every haldex service, to ensure that it does not end up the way my did. Very happy with the car now, such a shame it took so long (8 months) to sort out, thank you everybody!

Do the fans come on when overheating light is on. If not just wondering if its the prongs in expansion vessel. I used to get the warning on my old mk2. I scraped pins and it was fine after that. Think its the same warning for low coolant and overheating on the MK2 but not sure re mk3 Alasdair

There is elements of that. My son just wants to drive and have the car systems tell him where he can go to charge up a bit if he gets low. The Google, or Tesla software makes that much easier telling the driver how busy the location is ie number of available bays and what the price is which can be half as much again even for the same public charging company. Reading Services has a lot of chargers as does Crawley so should not be too difficult.

sold to webuyanycar. That’s it. Thank you!

I spent a few days on this and did brakes (clean and lube and paint) and also under wheel arches. P40 isopon worked a treat. I only started this to sort a few rust spots due to stone chips which were superficial. Digging around lead to the discovery of rust. When you see bubbling it is too late. The cavity was sound. I've sprayed s50 bolt hamber wax and used the clear wax stuff under wheel arches. The photos show the epoxy spray 2k after chiselling off old paint and then sanding to leave the factory rust proofing, the paint was lose after a sandpaper rub down. Had stone guard grey and then hycote topcoat diamond silver then clear coat. No adverse reactions. The stone guard spray I didn't rate, seems consistency of a primer. The underbody bungs I replaced with aftermarket. There are several sizes 30mm hole along sill x4 each side, but some near exhaust etc. iñ wheel arch the hole is 40mm, see new bungs in photo.

Sorry to hear you have had a bad experience with them, I've ordered a few times from Autodoc and have always paid the extra few pounds to allow to return items up to 100 or 200 days after purchase. I purchased the wrong clutch and it was my mistake, sent them pics and they sent me return labels and the necessary paperwork.

A few years back, when I was the production electrical engineer for Halliburton's based in Haverhill, I had the chance of moving to their Aberdeen operation, as they were closing the factory in Haverhill. I declined and also declined to emigrate to their plant in Duncan, because of mums poor health.

Fabiamk4man (who originated this topic) owns a Fabia Mk4 "Style" model built in December 2022 that he purchased (in Greece) in September 2025 when the vehicle had covered 28,000km. The car has a TSI 1.0litre motor producing 110PS and, although the "Style" trim designator was not used in the UK, the motor's capacity and power-output of his car are the same as those of my own similar-age UK-marketed Fabia Mk4 SE L model. Photos of the engine compartment of Fabia Mk4 cars fitted with that motor show the position (and yellow colour) of the dipstick 'handle' (arrowed on this image). As I said earlier, the angled design of the yellow handle means that the dipstick can only be pushed fully home when the handle is leaning towards the car's front. However, it is possible to establish that the dipstick's tube is straight (rather than curved) as the dipstick can be turned through 90° and still be easily inserted until the angled handle prevents it going any further. Online photos/adverts indicate that the dipstick normally has a 'dotted' oil-level marking section towards its end that matches the drawing in Fabia Mk4 Owner's Manuals. Just for the record (and assuming that my own Fabia's dipstick is the correct one!!!) I've measured my car's dipstick and its critical dimensions are shown on the image below. To make that abundantly clear - the distance from the underside of the yellow handle to the dipstick's end is 525mm - the distance from the underside of the yellow handle to the start of the dotted oil-level marking section is 493mm - the overall length of the dotted oil-level marking is 19mm, meaning that the dotted oil-level marking section stops 13mm from the end of the dipstick.

If the DATA centres or large retail and communications corporations in the USA are building their own SMR,s then that is maybe who should do it in the UK. Again it is public money in the UK thrown at the already huge & wealthy corporations and shareholders.

i never checked warm oil because i cant pull out dipstick, affraid to brake it.

JCB major Tory donors and were go to place for Boris etc photo shoots. JCB tax history in many areas make interesting reading.

There is still the drive for Small Modular Nuclear & that was a wee back pocket earner for some Tories when in power and now some Labour party elected or non elected members will do OK out of that, same as happened with Hydrogen and JCB or family members connected to JCB.

with a oil sump out, oil pump belt which is in oil bath should also be replaced.

on my 1.5 tsi DPCA is capacitiy 4.3 L with a filter (Manual), when i put that amount of oil, when it cools out completely, almost touches maximum line. 1 mm lower.

We are all supposed to be mugs, just because some are that believe politicians & spin doctors.

Massive Windfarms off the Scottish Coast or on land are not generating electricity because there is not the grid capacity or storage facilities or facilities to use to produce hydrogen. & there is no plans that will be implemented in the next year or 3 that will be changing this situation. Over capacity and lack of infrastracture. So Real world not Fiction / UK government / GB Energy world. Pylons being blocked, Substations Blocked and Interconnectors being laid and Land Fall sites being blocked.

So many angles to this summers heat waves and the effect on electricity prices and supply. All power sources that need cooling water ie gas power stations, and any other fossil fuel ones, including nuclear where they are drawing river water for cooling, were severely handicapped during the heat waves even fully shutting down in some case of power plants requiring cooling water/ Not enough water and what there was too hot. Only solar kept up full supply and was relied on more heavily because of the failure of gas, nuclear and other fossil fuels. This affected the whole European electrical grid and resulted in the much higher prices which the UK has to pay for the interconnector electricity to keep the lights on some hours of the day. Still some levies could be removed, 6% I have seen menttioned. Massive new wind farms come on stream on the English and Scottish coast, onshore wind and solar, both home and company installs occuring at pace thankfully. Us domestic consumers have to hope that the new AI centres dont take so much power that we don't see as much benefit as we hope that is home / balcony solar could be so important to keep home bills down as low as possible. Today is the day balcony / home solar becomes legal !! Dogger Bank A&B 2.4GW Wind Farm Berwick Bank 4.1GW Offshore Wind Farm Hornsea Project Three Offshore Wind Farm 2.4GW Ossian Offshore Wind Farm 3.6GW Sofia 1.4GW Offshore Wind Farm

Just updated my post above that apparently it is unassigned fuse 1.

"Classic" Thanks for the pic, I shall not worry about the missing nut now. I don't have heat pump either so that bolt with the nut missing could well be the point they connect it too? My extra relay & 50A fuse maybe for my heated screen, that'll take a bit of juice?

My guess (and it is a guess 😬) is that it would be for some option like Heat Pump. Mine is a 60 sel and I can see there is an extra relay and 50a fuse in your fuse box compared to mine. Edit : Apparently it is fuse 1 and shown not assigned. I googled it at and it came up fuse 1 in the under bonnet fuse box is not used empty/spare.

That's very odd... As it was more convenient, the photos I provided were not of my own Fabia's dipstick, but copied from this UK ebay advert. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/375482427248 However, my 2024 Fabia's dipstick and other adverts for 'genuine' Fabia Mk4 1.0litre-motor dipsticks are identical and match the relevant picture in all Fabia Mk4 Owner's Manuals. (As I was aware you were in Greece, I checked the appropriate section in the Greek-language 2023 Manual and - as the attached image shows - that was no different). There seem to be two possibilities - (1) that a Fabia Mk4 car with the 1.0litre TSI motor may sometimes have been factory-fitted with a dipstick that does not have the raised dotted section shown in the Owner's Manual, or (2) that your car does not have a 'genuine' Skoda Fabia Mk4 dipstick. You'd be wise to check this with a Skoda dealership. If your car does not have the 'genuine' Skoda Fabia Mk4 dipstick, its dipstick may be the wrong length and (obviously) that would affect checking the car's oil-fill level. During my 65 years of driving I've owned many cars, including 6 VWs and 2 Skodas. The only vehicle I've had any real difficulty checking the oil-level was a 2015 motorhome based on a Fiat Ducato that had a LONG dipstick 'tube' that curved around the front of the engine before disappearing into the motor. The dipstick itself was flat black steel with just a narrowed section near its end to indicate minimum/ maximum oil-levels (image below). Fiat dropped the dipstick from later Ducatos, provoking vociferous complaints from owners who found the electronic oil-level system to be untrustworthy.

Hi, just looked at mine, it is the same - no nut.

If the car was serviced at the dealer they switched to G12EVO a long time ago (2019-2020). I had my water pump changed this summer on my 2014 and they refilled with G12EVO (I also have the sillicat bag out) Since the tanks without sillicat came out the dumped the G13 and used G12EVO everywhere.

From memory I believe a new turbo/wastegate has to be calibrated. Perhaps the garage either didnt or got it wrong. I would take it back and get it scanned with as said vcds to see exactly whats going on. Alasdair

Vw Audi workshop in Ipswich are brilliant but booked up quite far in advance. Prices are on the wall in the waiting room: £640 inc VAT

Late response, still, might help others in the same position: the 0204 code is not glow plug, it is an electrically failed injector. You need to replace #4 injector. It has never been anything to do with the glow plugs,other than the glow plug light is flashing when an injector fails. Had the same fault on my wife's Roomster some years back, quite a few of 1.6TDI injectors were dodgy, either leaking or failing, our Roomster had both. HTH

Knew I had a photo of my 1984 2.0 SGL somewhere: Gaz

My 2.0 lt TDi has achieved 84K and seems to be doing well, no DPF/EGR issues (so far) apart from the usual belt and water pump, it's required nothing beyond the usual consumables. I don't go for dealer servicing, MOT covers most things in a service ( as a service is mostly check/inspect xyz) and I always get an annual oil change with the MOT. filters are about the only thing that doesn't require a computer that I can still fix. I'm not changing mine until repairs exceed value, it's a shame they didn't make a mark II instead of becoming one of the look alike sheep with the subsequent Yeti replacements

In an earlier posting you said "My dipstick is exactly the same as the manual describes BUT there is not ANY treatment at the marked area as shown in S19-0760 picture - it is just plain steel." Is that actually the case, or does your car's dipstick have the raised 'dotted' section shown in the image in my last posting? This Toyota Tacoma-related Facebook entry discussed reading the oil level on a dipstick when thin oil is being used in a vehicle https://www.facebook.com/groups/4870321056422088/posts/6768461309941377/ and the following three 'tricks' were suggested 1) Use a brand new or extremely sharp hacksaw blade or metal file to “scratch” up both sides of the dipstick with a crosshatch pattern. Be certain to wipe all metal powder/dust before inserting into the engine. If this doesn’t work then add the following to #1. 2) Use a piece of regular stick chalk to rub on the cross hatches when the stick is completely wiped off. Insert dipstick and pull out to see where the level shows on the chalk. Clean off all chalk before reinserting after level is viewed. If you don’t want to do #1 and # 2 then try #3. 3) Have a piece of absorbent white paper towel or absorbent tissue paper. When the dipstick is pulled out quickly then slowly slide the paper towel or tissue edge held tight on the metal from top down toward full mark. When first sight of oil shows on the towel that’s the level. Holding a powerful light close during either of these methods also helps especially if you are in shade or dark conditions. My 2009 Skoda Roomster's dipstick has a single O-ring seal, but my 2024 Fabia's dipstick has two O-rings (image attached) and - as its 'handle' is angled - it is only practicable to fully insert the dipstick in one orientation. Engine hot or engine cold, the two O-rings mean that a good upwards pull is needed to remove the dipstick.

Thanks all for the advice. As I said I am overdue on the water pump, so I will change to the G12 evo when I fill the coolant back up.

Looks like 4 separate gaskets, one for each port: https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ/FAB/225/1/133/133035

Reckon you may have found the problem (I hope) Engines these days are very sensitive to any leaks. Alasdair

You can get stick on battery projector ones with this logo, or Skoda / Superb logo ones that fit in the standard light fitting. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005553670345.html? https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005009118625645.html

Yes, they were replaced one-for-one. They aren't available anymore. Back then, there was a group buy in Germany for this type of logo.

Bearing out (prepare new axle bolt and protective cap, if old bearing will be re-used). 4 axle flange bolts out (prepare new bolts). Just recognized big crack in my '2016 Octy rear/right guard- so, it's upcoming job for next year. Maybe it's wise to prepare new bearing too. Don't know if they have tendency to bake on axle.

Those are MHI2 maps. They’re the same for every MHI2 system, no matter the brand. The file name of the archive or the ending .zip or .7z has nothing to do with the contents or the actual structure of the maps. They will work on your car regardless. They work on VW, Seat, Skoda, Audi, Bentley, Porsche and whichever other brand uses MHI2 systems.

Isn't it this post by Viper above ?... in old language it would be the November 2026 release but brought forwards due to streamlined processing. The November release was always coded to the following year hence this has 2027 on it. Then the June release Id expect to say 2027-2028 and hopefully that will turn up in February 2027. Everything is brought forward by 4 months now thanks to connected cars and the streamlining that was put in.

Unfortunately, they were a bit twisted back then, but that has since been corrected. But this is also very nice. 🤩

Thanks for the replies all. After a month I finally got the second key, which meant I had to go back to the garage, a trip of 83 miles, so it could be co-ordinated in, took an hour. Free of course. I had to chase them a bit but all's well in the end.

UK-Spain-Switzerland-France-Belgium-UK 3000km or a little more. Over ten days. Only gripe was the oil getting burned in a 6 hour traffic jam on the M25 on the way out. Aside from that no more oil burned. Fugg me those French tolls, ouch! Seeing as I also have a new license, I've actually done more miles on foreign roads than UK. Back to the real world, nice. EDIT: it's nagging me to change the oil now. Which is fair.

New MHI2 P470 (2027) maps were released by VW. The content.pkg contains the following FECs/FSCs: 02300040 (Audi), 09300002 (VW), 08300002 (Skoda), 07300040 (Seat), 06300040 (Porsche), 03300040 (Bentley). This also means they'll run on Skoda no problem, as per usual. Link to the maps on the VW servers: https://navigation-maps.volkswagen.com/vw-maps/Update_25_26/P470_N60S5MIBH3_EU.7z

How is it going with EV,s on fire in the UK as the numbers on the road or in storage have been growing. There seems to be very little media coverage on this recently. Is it just less of a story or less scaremongering from the usual suspects in the printed press?

I should also add that I have previously ‘validated’ the ‘Since refuelling MPG’ with brim-to-brim fuelling and the figures were within 0.5 miles per gallon, so I that’s good enough for me.