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I tend to read the reviews on here before buying tyres. Not bought winter tyres yet but it helped when my daughter wanted all seasons. https://www.tyrereviews.com/

I think at this point I'd be concerned where they put it, rather than presume it being a case of administrative ineptitude 🤔

The fault could be something as simple as a sticking turbo actuator arm, wait and see what the investigation shows before considering rejection.

Torque wrenches for undoing glow plugs (for example) are reversible and click both ways, respectable ones are also calibrated both ways. shear torque is under 35Nm, we're not talking subframe bolts here. There is nothing wrong with undoing glow plugs to a specified shear torque, which by the way is 2-3 times higher than the tightening torque but still relatively small, see earlier thread on this :https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/511440-glow-plug-replacement/#findComment-5848987 For a low to medium torque such as glow plugs, it is perfectly possible to apply almost symmetric load by holding one hand on the handle of the wrench and the other hand on the top of the pivot. I agree than using just the handle of the wrench results in far more asymmetric load and may break the plug. The problem with T-bar is that although the load is symmetric, you may easily apply way more than is needed and shear the plug. It is far better to attempt using a reversible torque wrench set below shear torque and if the glow plug does not move, put some more penetrant oil around it and drive around a bit more. For a DIY mechanic, far better to wait a day or two than to snap the glow plug IMHO. Also, on a hot engine, you will find that the glow plug movement is far more gradual affair, most of the horror stories about glow plugs snapping during removal are from "mechanics" trying to undo them on a cold engine, without penetrant oil. Under these adverse conditions, even undoing a solid steel bolt that's been in place for many years is a hit and miss affair. In summary: warm up the engine, use penetrant oil and a double sided torque wrench set below max allowed torque and held with 2 hands, one on the axis of rotation. This is all that is needed to avoid your own snapped glow plug horror story. HTH.

Agree with using the penetrating oil but, when the time comes, use a T-bar wrench so that you apply a pure torque, this minimises the risk of snapping the glowplug. 🤞for you!

Going for the matte black instead of the red. Looks mean! Stage 2, +300ps, +500nm, now on Michelin PS5, 245/35/19. Next on the list: Sachs performance clutch, upgraded turbo (Garret G2260) and Bilsteins B8

Thanks for your response. Well that's the thing it doesn't come up with an error code. On the scan page it shows the same symbol with CHECK, but it doesn't show anywhere that I can see as an error code. I will run it again tomorrow and see if there is anything that I've missed.

What’s the error on OBD11? Driving at high revs heats up the exhaust and helps cause a passive regen (burning off the soot) but if that’s not the key issue then it’s not the solution to the problem. You could have a sensor breaking down which is sometimes causing an implausible signal - driving at high revs does nothing for that.

'Energy regulator posts advice on social media shocker' Reaaaad awrabahhhhht it.

The national grid does not look to be very robust; Ofgem have started to post the following advice on social media.

Diesel

Hi, thank you once again for your help! So, this is where it gets interesting... Cinch, being a massive moneysupermarket of cars, don't tend to give out much service history. I therefore did my own digging (calling MOT centres, online paid searches etc) to build a picture of the service history. Looks likes its head general maintenance (oil change, brakes +fluid, plenty of tires etc), but no indication of any other major services that I could find. I know, a little dodgy already, but that's just how they operate. Maybe car people like us are not their target market! In terms of remap, i have no idea if it would have had one, and I have no idea how to check. It hadn't occurred to me that it would have. VAQ wise, I'm pretty sure as this is a 2018 230ps model, it didn't come with a VAQ unlike the 245 editions? But please correct me if I'm wrong, and advise on how I can check if I have one or not. Is there any way for me to check any of the things you mention out through the infotainment system (in the Car tab, or settings etc?), or would it need to be OBD read to determine these things? I appreciate I sound like a novice, and to anything post 2000s, I am! But I would really appreciate any help I can get on this so that I can make a more informed decision as to whether to keep the car or not. It's a Meteor Grey Petrol Manual Estate which to me is the ultimate spec for these cars, so I don't want my attraction to blind me, and leave me stuck with a very expensive paperweight when it turns out to be a dud. Thank you so much for your help :)

I've changed 2 glow plugs on my Octavia 2L TDi in the last year. I have a bike torque wrench which goes up to 20Nm. The maximum removal torque is around 25Nm/30Nm depending on the manufacturer. Tightening torque was 12-15Nm which is basically nothing. Both glow plugs came out easily with just a little bit over 20Nm. I sprayed them with WD-40 the night before, drove it during the day and the replaced the glow plug a few hours after I came home. The electrical connector is easy to remove if you have the access to grip the plastic body lightly and pull up. In the Octavia forum there was a very helpful technician who said that, most problems removing the plugs occur when they have been changed by someone before who has overtightened them. From the factory they usually come out easily. He recommended not to overtighten when you refit them. There are some videos on YouTube that even say to only hand tighten them. I chose to tighten to the minimum and haven't had problems since. I used ceramic grease on mine, but I was surprised that, apart from the heating tip, the rest of the glow plug was pretty clean for 225k km and 12 years use. My advise, is don't worry too much, be gentle and slow applying pressure & if in doubt, stop. Spray some more and try again, leaving it to the next day if necessary. Gabbo

I've just got my Jag back from its service and MOT everything is good, although the rear tyres are apparently quite worn But as is typical of a Jag dealership, the actual service is a bit patchy. I wonder if some of Jaguar's woes are because of this rather than their cars. I've had a couple of problems before with Jaguar and my car being in their hands and this time was not totally smooth either. The F Type is by far the most expensive car I've had and I did think I might get the same sort of excellent service I've had from BMW, but as usual....no. I dropped the car off and made a big point that I didn't want my car washed (the last time I did this they started to wash the car before I could stop them!!) anyhoo they put a big lable in the car saying not to touch it with a soggy sponge. No, my trouble this time was I asked them to let me know the moment the car was ready, as I was walking to the dealership and it was a couple of miles, which by the time I'd crossed a few roads probably means nearly 40 mins to get there. Sooo when it got to 17:00hrs I figured I'd better set off even though they hadn't bothered to ring me. On arrival, the service department seemed to be in the process of going home, at least I guessed this by their absence. Reception had certainly gone and it was thanks to the nice lady who makes tea, that she was able to find the service chap to sort my car out. Then came the bill, it was very big! Personally, if I worked in the service dept I'd have stayed all night if a customer was going to pay such a large invoice, but that's just me perhaps? I did query the bill however, when I was told that my AdBlue had been topped up, so they had to charge for it. I think you can guess what happened next..... 🤬 I realise in hindsight that it is possible, if unlikely, that it might not be obvious that I have a (very) petrol powered car, not a diesel

Hi, thanks for the response! Say it was the spark plugs, given the car failed straight after purchase, should I still be walking away, or are spark plugs a common issue? Regarding the E10, I actually filled it up form 1/4 empty to full with E10 myself on the way home. I’ve got no indication that it’s been remapped, so would assume it should run fine on E10. Could I get the garage to check the ECU for any previous tinkering when they take it away to code read it? Thanks 😊

The Arctic is really not like UK or Scottish cambered roads where they might be ploughed or gritted or not and thawing snow on ice is pretty much a common thing and what you might want Winter tyres for be them Snow or All season. During Covid the rather well known tyre tester took a Golf to The Ski Roads to do tyre tests. The Ski Road to Cairngorm Ski Centre was closed and The Lecht & Glenshee roads had no snow and if they had and were open they would have been plough and gritted. What i want to know is if the roads are open can i get up the roads and more important down safely. descending being the scary part as far as i am concerned. Driving roads that Posties, home deliveries and even the Police are on without Snow Tyres is hardly much of a trial.

A standard 19" Elroq front wheel could be used as a spare, ie. 235/55R19 101T 8Jx19 ET45 5/112 57.1 The wheel bolts for both the alloy and steel rims are the same. Alcar 9393 8Jx19 ET45 5/112 57.1 steel rim (14.0kg) (Elroq) https://www.mytyres.co.uk/rims/details?vehicleId=1313955427855111280&rimCode=ALCAR9393 Continental AllSeasonContact 2 235/55R19 101T (Euro label A B 70dB) https://www.camskill.co.uk/m142b0s12770p221942/Continental_Tyres_All_Season_Car_Continental_Conti_All_Season_Contact_2_235_55_R19_101T_TL_Fuel_Eff_%3A_A_Wet_Grip%3A_B_NoiseClass%3A_B_Noise%3A_70dB Elroq wheels 235/55R19 8Jx19 ET45 front, 255/50R19 8Jx19 ET45 rear 235/50R20 8Jx20 ET45 front, 255/45R20 9Jx20 ET42 rear 235/45R21 8.5Jx21 ET40 front, 255/40R21 9Jx21 ET42 rear

Funny that, YouTube offered me his 2026 winter tyre review just last night. The review was cut short because of rising temperatures on his Arctic test track but it was still really interesting and I see the video link is available from your own link to his front page. Importantly, our Goodyear Ultragrip 3's were the winner 😘

If stopped on a hill and hill hold assist is working, holding the car for a couple of seconds it needs the accelerator touched to move off,

Great, but no point in trying to get to the threads via head end of bolt. Gotta go in from open end of thread in console.

I would suggest putting aside £800-£1600 at least for a new clutch pack by 150,000 miles. If it’s done a lot of city driving it could be a lot sooner. I bought a Fabia DSG which had mostly done motorway miles. Now at 125,000 and on the original clutch pack with no problems or codes. Besides a test drive; setting off on an incline with no gas peddle. Any noise? Is it smooth changing? I’d personally buy a code reader and give the car you like a scan to see if there are any codes on the transmission module. A worn clutch pack won’t put on engine check light necessarily.

The ones that go through subframe, front bush of wishbone and then into long alloy thread of the console. The thread goes all the way through the console, so you can get to the open end and spray penetrating fluid in there. Trouble comes generally if bolts have been reused previously, and their anti-corrosion coating damaged. Then it can be a 'cluster-hug' of corrosion and thread galling. If it really jams up well it's replacement console too.

I expect my 1.0 DSG does the same, but I tend to pre=empt things to a certain extent by going into Sport ,when I think I need some instant power, otherwise there's a little hesitation before the engine/DSG combo sorts itself out. I didn't feel the need to use Sport on my previous 1.2 DSG Yeti, but no hardship with the Karoq.

A PHEV is never running out of battery completely... When your battery state of charge reaches 0% on the dashboard there's actually a battery capacity (not accessible by the user) that still has some charge left such that your car is still able to drive like a simple HEV - using electric or combustion-engine propulsion in a way that is fully decided by the hybrid system. That battery capacity is sufficient to run the AC as the user/driver demands. When it gets too low, the ICE kicks in and generates some more electricity...

That's exactly what you would expect , the DSG is monitoring engine load (rpm & throttle position) and adjusting the gear change points accordingly so that the engine doesn't 'labour' and holds lower gears when load is higher!. Its no different on a 1.5 TSI with a dry clutch, gear change points are still dynamically adjusted.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/227518741122 Currently have it listed on eBay but I’m getting messed about (surprise, surprise) so once it ends it will be for sale only to Briskoda members. If you’re interested drop me a message. Cheers, Ryan.

Just check the actual change interval. While mine is not a diesel (1.4TSI) i only did my T belt at 300,000km. You may get a bit more out of the old one yet.

It has to be one of the most faithful versions of a prototype I've ever seen make it to production, so well done, Jag, for that. It is astonishing how small it is inside, considering it's about the size (and shape?) of a static caravan outside. I think they missed a trick by letting the 'embargo lifted' reviews show relatively muted colours. For me, after going in such a bold direction, they should have ensured that every video and photo review contained bold or unusual colours. Funnily enough, I've just dropped my Jag off for its 3-year service and MOT. I asked if they were sticking with Jag and getting a Type 01 in, to which I was told sometime next year they would have one in the showroom. I was then asked if I was interested and to which I replied I had a V8, supercharged, sleek coupe in for service....they read the room correctly and said "....ah, OK". 😆 I also can't afford one

Some additional 2026.06 updates (for some RoW countries) out: Australia -> https://download.updateportal.skoda-auto.com/maps/OI_P177_AUS_202612_Offline_Update.zip Asia -> https://download.updateportal.skoda-auto.com/maps/OI_P177_ASIA_202612_Offline_Update.zip India -> https://download.updateportal.skoda-auto.com/maps/OI_P177_INDIA_202612_Offline_Update.zip South America & Mexico -> https://download.updateportal.skoda-auto.com/maps/OI_P177_MRM4_SAM_202612_Offline_Update.zip The _202612_ in the filename appears to be incorrect - but the file contents appears to contain June 2026 data... Discovered via Skoda update portal. Enjoy!

I think it's a distinctive design but not keen on the rear end treatment, and the harking back to the long bonnet of the E-Type seems an unnecessary design flourish IMHO. I do like the efficiency of the 1000HP motors giving a 300+ mile range "at highway speed". Would I buy one if I had £130,000 to spend on a car? No, it's styling is just too "weird" for my taste.

Hi Evolution, thanks for your reply. I have only owned the car since the beginning of the year so can't confirm about the oil change however I have had a look in the tire well and there are 3 stickers, one is I believe the original one put in at the time the car was built it has all the details of the car, engine, paint etc.. then 2 local dealer stamps (see pics) one is dated Dec 2014 so it might be that the work was done? Wasn't quite sure what your "'34F7'" meant. Re 'best to know what you are doing' I totally agree, my brother who does any work on the cars is a mechanical engineer and is very switched on, he has changed oil in regular gearboxes but has never worked on a DSG box in a Skoda. The Haynes paper manual does not cover the DSG and beside YT I am struggling to find exact info on what to do/ don't do for this car so hence my request here!

My 2017 is at 353,000 km, and is mostly original apart from the usual wear and tear items, only replaced the interior blower, interior fan resistor and boot struts, the MK3 is an amazing milage eater

Once vag wheels get to a certain age they all leak from the bead seals. At about £200 to powder coat a set puts an end to the constant air top ups for me. Have had 3 cars done myself. Also any kerb damage and general delamination gets fixed. Plus I go for something darker and they look cleaner for longer eve with brake dust over them.

I signed for it at 5.30pm. They close at 6.00pm, probably not had time to sort. We've had 19 cars over four decades, they've always looked after me to be fair.

It certainly does, but as I said I also fancied a change. So time to try something different. I didn't really want a vRS for the performance but it's the only model that has my three musts. Electric memory seats both sides, DCC and Matrix LED's. To be fair in the EV's vRS is a trim level with a bit more power.

If your Febi bushes have this lump like the OEM ones, the lump should be on the side nearest the midline of the car. Do you have any tooling to help press them into place without damage? Are you aware that on the (UK) driver's side ,with the HTP engines, you have to lift the engine a fair bit to give clearance to get the front bolt out and (preferably new replacement one) back in again? PITA job which I did recently for the second, and last, time.

Looks like the new Jaguar launch is tonight at 01:00! It's in 'Murica, hence the daft time. Great British brand, owned by India, launching in America. Well at least we are keeping it in former colonies.

So far I've given it 2 sprays with penetrating oil. And 1 blast with the Wolfbox air blower. It looks clean around the glow plug now. I will give it a go with my small torque wrench, going up to 30 NM maximum to loosen it, after my next daytime drive...

^^^ That is different from doing a DQ200 on a 1.2 or 1.4 TSI Fabia. Do not remove the starter motor. @Catwoman If your car is a 2011 than there was a Service Campaign after 2014 to change the oil from Synthetic to mineral & a software update. '34F7' Dide the car get that. Sticker in the spare tyre well. There are 2 oils to change, in the gearbox and in the MCU. If changing the oil best do both. Best know what you are actually doing.

Some shots from the east coast and a poor attempt at a landscape shot with my iPhone.

No worries. I sourced it from http://www.vangilsautomotive.nl/ via https://www.proxyparts.com Searched for the engine by engine code. Did the work with a friend of mine, so a big savings.

Stone Cross windmill looking rather splendid in this afternoon's Sun: And on the way back I counted 67 Coot and two Great Crested Grebe on Shinewater Lake: Oh and not forgetting these two: Didn't expect to see them, otherwise I'd have taken some food as they came over to me, so seemed interested. Gaz

Are some folks using super-unleaded petrol? I put a tank of the Costco stuff in ours and I honestly think it went a bit mental - the throttle response seemed so much sharper. I switched back to ordinary fuel and it took a while to calm down again. I can't say I noticed (or remember) gear shift points changing though.

Hi, My googling suggests the 190ps EA888 is very different internally and externally from the other versions, being focused on efficiency rather than power. Are all post 2021 using the 7 speed DSG?

@Junips99 Has there been any progress on DTC scan?

Work done. Oil service and DSG service. Tried to change the front ARB but no go. Skoda have changed the bush clamps to sealed units with rivet nut so the H&R bushes can’t be clamped in. The OE unit comes as one - bar and bushes in clamps. H&R haven’t caught up with the design change. Top mounts changed and now all quiet. 4wa done and all the errors have disappeared. Car runs nice and smooth. Just needs a clean now!

When I changed a glow plug, I sprayed it when hot and cold with WD40 specialist penetrant for about 3 weeks leading up to being brave enough to try taking it out. https://www.eurocarparts.com/p/wd-40-specialist-penetrant-400ml-542771790?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=610675635&utm_content=70461851759&utm_term=&type=shopping&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=610675635&gbraid=0AAAAAD1aCJiCH00Nb1y-9oNagakWazLWg&gclid=CjwKCAjwifjVBhBKEiwAYx4K9Gr4esDsqkYF07vtj-SUlNoa99sUK64kWpMgQefPCrCN5MJdWU_ttRoCb-IQAvD_BwE It came out ok but took quite a bit of force (And bravery) to crack it initially. But they can be very hit and miss!

I would reconsider the glow plug grease. You'll get mixed reports if you should use it. It comes out of the factory without and using it changes torque settings. I did one recently and was prepared for the worst, but once cracked, it was finger tight. I did leave it soaking in wd40 for a few days though. You can use a multimeter to check it for continuity first, just in case it’s the cable: Congrats on it not being cylinder 3 btw.

Going back to the thread title, it's looking increasingly unlikely with talk of 4,000 job cuts. I think I read that for each job lost in the manufacturing of a car, that could be three jobs in the supply chain so as many as 16,000 jobs at risk. Sad times for all at risk.