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So you have to do it all by hand, then?

Stick an oven in the bedroom and tell her you'd like to put a bun in it.................................. Might work.

The draining will be the problem not the glass sealing.

The cause is the common cause and why VW Group discontinued the CAVE and introduced the CTHE but on early ones they still never got the Engine Management right. One cylinder and the valves and the fueling, and bore wash, and single oiled plug getting cooked. The oil breathers they modified and did a software patch for. The oil spray jets that they changed and did a software patch for. The engines components, pistons, rings, scrapers, valves. Wrong plugs as OEM at first and then even when changed. Crap design of the inlet manifold. Using long life oil and Super Unleaded fuel etc etc. All the stuff up in the post with links to Lucifers Ulitimate Guide links pinned at top of page.

Hi this was me. The symptoms: Gear indicator on my wife's Fabia vRS would start flashing after exactly 10 minutes it would still drive but I read it's time was coming... The codes read Pump play protection. I cleared them away but they were straight back each time. I spoke to my mechanic friends, one said £1200+ VAT for a new mechatronic unit, or to try a company called ECU repair. the others were too scared to touch anything DSG but said I could use the ramp on new year's day (this Wednesday). I found this forum from the Fabia vRS page and took a gamble for £200. I got the repair kit the next day from Alesypalsy (sorry mate didn't catch your name). He also sent me a load of videos of him fitting it to a Golf. It looked pretty straight forward so I decided to get the car jacked up (with axle stands of course) and see how it looked. I decided not to wait and to started taking the necessary bits off to get access. The British weather, low light, tickets to the panto and a drinking session and associated hangover allowed me to drag the job out over 3 days. I did the while job without removing the mechatronic unit (just the cover) at one point I thought I might have to drain the coolant as the pipes made it a struggle to get the cover out as there is less room in the Fabia than in the Golf in his videos. Just put it back together yesterday afternoon and everything works. Took it for a drive for 40 minutes and everything is as it should be. And gave it a good thrashing last night as some young lad in a TDi Ibiza was trying his luck. I know it's very early but it seems to be fixed. I'm not sure if it is a coincidence but going from park to reverse does not seem to 'clunk' anymore. I'll keep everyone updated good or bad...

Well well WELL!! I got itchy feet so went outside with my head torch and work light to start taking the Ramair off to inspect! And I FOUND it!!! 👏👏👏 bloody pipe come undone under the new intake piping/heatshield so couldn't see it! 🙂 Going to have to get a new one from the dealer it's a funny one. Does this lead to the servo? Then onto what? Bodged it for now so I can get the intake fitted again and get back on the road 🙏

Please and by all means, clean the hoses, enlarge the drain valves even.

Hi all. My first post, but I thought I would put a detailed description as I could not find one when I searched here and other forums. The issue was that I had no beep most of the time or a quick beep, but no display and the reversing sensors were just not working. So, to find the fault I turned the ignition to on, engine not running and selected reverse. At the back of the car I could see the reversing light was on, so I assumed the reversing switch was ok. Next I put my ear to each of the four sensors and they were all clicking, so this now pointed to the buzzer itself. Reading other posts on here, it seems that if the buzzer is faulty, then you get no display and/or no noise. I ordered a new buzzer, just a few pounds even from UK sellers on Ebay. (Overseas sellers are under £3, but you may have to wait a few weeks). To replace the buzzer you need to slide the front passenger seat as far forward as possible, then tilt it forward as far as possible. Now open the back door and from the back seat you can see there is a plastic cover around the passenger seat belt (mine is cream). From the bottom of this cover either pull this outwards with your fingers or slide something thin up under it and lever it outwards. The clips that hold it in are stiff, but do not snap, so be brave and pull hard. The buzzer is NOT under there, but you can now use a torch and look down the larger cover and see the buzzer behind this cover. Again the clips are stiff, but metal so grab it from the top and pull it outwards. Once the clips have given way you can tilt this plastic cover to around 45 degrees (manouvering it under the top cover) and the whole lower cover comes off very easily. Now you have access to the buzzer itself. Next pull the wiring connector out of the bottom of the old buzzer (just pull, no clips or squeezing needed) and plug it in your new one to check this is curing your issue. Leave the new one dangling from the wire for now and turn the ignition to on (no need to start the engine) and select reverse, you should hear that familiar short beep and see the display come up. If so, you know the new buzzer has resolved your issue. The old buzzer looks like it is riveted in place, but they are plastic rivets and if you get a small scredriver or similar tool, you can push the middle out and then just pull the rivets out with your fingers, remove and discard the old buzzer and put the new buzzer in place and re-use the rivets, they will hold it fine, even though the middles have been pushed out. Putting the lower large cover back is a little fiddly, but if you look at it, you will see the cover needs to slide under the fixed cover that is in the rear and just sits on top of the fixed cover in the front. Difficult to explain, but you will see what I mean when you are doing it. Once it is all lined up, just give a good thump either side and each clip will secure it, then you can replace the top cover and thump that in place. This is a job I had never done before and it took no more than 15 minutes and hopefully with these instructions you can do it in 5 mins! Never thought of taking photos I'm afraid, but good luck if you need to replace yours.

It’s been a long wait but worth it , picked up today 190 TDi l&k dsg in business grey .

Lad- you should have crossed the border and given up the differences. I married a Yorkshire lass ( so it's a(an almost) mixed marriage- I'm Scots, she's born in Yorkshire with a Scots dad , But by gum- (as they are said to say up thar), she can cook. 48 years of culinary bliss. Now ,if I could her get as interested in the bedroom................😍

It depends on the engine, some report oil ash in grams whilst others use litres. There are different maximums based on the engine too

They stop road crap getting on the brakes and they stop brake dust getting on the suspension and brake lines. They direct air onto the brakes to help cooling and keep brake dust away from the braking surface. Have you seen the state of the calipers/disks/pads on a modern car running without dust shields? They don't tend to be long for this world. Not something I would be keen to do. Had the same dust shields on a VAG car for over 100K miles and they are still fine. Anything will fail if abused or neglected, however they are considered a service item and most good places replace them at the same time as the brakes. They are easily replaced if you pull the hub, which is a simple matter if you have the correct hub puller. It is why you should not mess with your brakes unless you have the right knowledge and equipment.

Drag racing a 2019 RS3 against 2017 RS3 without a petrol particulate filter

Hello, I bought a used Fabia Mark Three SEL tsi estate with the 110 bhp engine last Friday and take delivery this coming Friday. I i HAVE FOUNDt was first registered on June 30th 2017. The dealers ad said it was a 1197 four cylinder engine but I am sure that the 3 cylinder engine replaced the 4 cylinder engine in March 2017. Or is my memory playing me tricks? I thought the 4 cylinder engine was finally phased out at the end of May 2017. So the dealer may have made a mistake or they may be correct . I suppose if a build was delayed for any reason that could mean a car registered on 30/6/2017 could have the 4 cylinder but 4 plus weeks does seem rather a long time for that to have happened. I would obviously save money by only having to 3 spark plugs if it is the 3 cylinder but that is such small beer it really doesnt matter,. I would like to know which it is mainly because I have read reports that the 3 cylinder engine sounds very busy and "thrummy" right across the power range and that it needs a fair number of revs to get it going from rest. Neither bother me too much, I just want to know what to expect from my new car. i have found the 4 cylinder engine to be very smooth and very quiet but it gets a bit loud at high speed. It pulls away really smoothly from rest whether hot or cold in all conditions. I know I could simply ask the dealer but if he has made a mistake he may not be willing to own up to it. And anyway I value the opinions of my fellow Briskodians on this as you will have real practical experience of this engine in its various manifestations. Looking forward to reading your responses with great interest and thanks in advance.

Result!

Ahh. Now I understand. Thanks for that.

If that is the case then it is very poorly worded. As I read it then the car won't qualify for the Trust Building Measure (TBM) if it has more than 160,000 miles on it at the time of the software update. As long as the car has less than 160,000 miles on it at the point it has the EA189 software update then you're covered for 24 months by the TBM, regardless of mileage. I remember the thread where we discussed this previously... Skoda UK claimed that as the car had exceeded 160,000 miles since new that the TBM didn't apply. Re-reading their T&C's (highlighted in yellow above) this isn't how I interpret their written words. If they'd placed a full stop after "160,000 miles" it would make much more sense. This is how Skoda worded it: The Trust Building Measure applies for a period of 24 months from when the vehicle receives the technical measure and only to vehicles with mileage of under 160,000 miles at the time the Trust Building Measure is implemented (whichever comes earlier). If only they'd written it like this instead... The Trust Building Measure applies for a period of 24 months from when the vehicle receives the technical measure and only to vehicles with a total mileage of under 160,000 miles. Their use of the words is implemented suggests the time the TBM starts, not it's duration. Poor, very poor.

This issue isn't new either by the way, it was common on the MkII Octavia too, when owners retrofitted aftermarket HID (xenon) bulbs to their halogen headlights, which fried the BCM. This is the first time I've read of the issue on a MkIII. In addition to the permanently-on indicator, other symptoms included failed wiper motors too. Did you remove the bulb, or did the dealer do it? Too late now, but used BCM's can be sourced online for less than £100 and can be coded to the car using readily available software such as VCDS. The dealer is taking the mick here with what they're charging you. Don't let this dealer put you off, sounds like you've stumbled across a bad one, there are plenty of good ones out there.

Hi, Thanks for the speedy reply, yes the dealer is specialist cars Dundee. The original fault was the front passenger side indicator staying on permanently. The bulb was removed as the only means to stop the lamp being on constantly. I was initially quoted £550 for the replacement of the BCM, but I received a call telling me extra coding was required so 2 hours labour was put on totalling £750. I'm so disappointed with skoda, I always service mine with skoda dealer and mot with them aswell. I thought I was doing the sensible thing and getting the dealer to fix the issue. I'm going to phone them tomorrow, if I have no success I will contact the number you provided. Thanks again for getting back to me 😊

They're having laugh! Ring Skoda UK customer services and ask them to get involved. If all of the faults were not present when you dropped the car off then they're obliged to put them right. The fact they're all connected directly to the BCM has them banged to rights. Why does the indicator bulb need replacing, if they've fixed the original fault then surely the bulb has gone out and is now working OK? So clever is Skoda's design team they decided to seal the indicator bulbs inside the headlight clusters not thinking that their longlife bulbs might not be long life enough. So to replace them you do indeed have to cut open the headlight and reseal it using a repair kit. To do this the front bumper needs to come off too. Genius! £750 for a replacement BCM sounds high, what caused the original failure? Definitely do not hand any more money over to these cowboys, at least until you've spoken to Skoda UK and asked them to open a case. Is the dealer Specialist Cars in Dundee?

Thanks @silver1011 , already posted in there in 2017 for another topic, didn't lead to any result for me 😕

If you place an @ in front of the users name, then depending on their settings they'll get an alert that they've been tagged in a post... @aki78

My car is in at Des Winks on Friday for it's first service. No problems with Des Winks, Sale and service side second to none. It's a 10/10 from me.

1.2 TSI 4 Cylinder engines were built/on sale until September 2017. They changed when WLTP came in in September 2017. There was a change in VED/ Road Tax on 1st April 2017 though. Good engine. Thanks AG Falco

Hi, I would say this is a common problem, I’ve had driver’s side seat element replaced twice, once when still under warranty by main dealer, and again 18 months later by independent specialist. Main dealer only gave 12 month warranty on initial repair. On both occasions the back element was OK, Hope this helps.

Hi SashaGrace. who was the vendor you were super happy with?

I clean and check them when I check and clean the brakes every time I change tyres from summers to winters and back again. Tin of brake cleaner does all 4. When I take pads or disks (usually both) off to change or re-dress them I take the shields off, 5 mins with a wire brush, some jenolite and a rattle tin of satin black and back everything goes. Bit of copper grease on the studs that hold them on and they come off easy next time. Not rocket science really Let me put it like this, If I take off brakes and the dust shields are less than perfect and I have any doubt they will make it to the next time, they get replaced. It is how I was taught and how the places that do work on my machines also work. As far as the Octavia goes it forms part of the "Inspecting brake system for leaks and damage" check on the inspection services. If they do not inspect things like condition and security of shields on a brake inspection I would go elsewhere. As any other item like disks or pads it is checked and replaced if necessary. they are to all intents and purposes a consumable item, but with a bit of looking after they can last. If manufacturers could get away without them they would, they can't Just glad I would not be buying a car owned by you if you think driving around with no shields is a good thing. But if you are happy that is all that counts

That looks well sasha you must be well chuffed with it 👍👍

My records show 5052 miles when purchased, in Feb, 2013, not too bad for a May 2012 car. I've now reached 35,200 miles, some 6 years & 10+ months later..... AmD mapped it to 249 bhp, it might be a little more now with a Pipercross air-filter & 30K more miles. It's still my daily driver of choice, even though my R is in the garage & available. (It did get an outing on Xmas day + it's off to it's 1st MOT later thus week....). I live in Thurrock, if you fancy a natter whilst waiting at AmD let me know. Happy New Year, DC.

Took one at the time so I could check the number.

It’s brill. Can’t wait to get started on that!

Record high December temperature on the 18th in Moscow of 5.6C.

Today the wireless CarPlay dongle arrived and I’ve been testing it. I’m super happy with it and the vendor. They said they weren’t sure if it would work with a Skoda but I was very confident it would. They named the device Skoda which is awesome and it has worked flawlessly out of the box with minimal setup. I’ve hidden it behind the dash and put my custom USB charge socket back in the factory location so I have CarPlay with no wires. I don’t need no MIB3 😂

Its just that @silver1011 and @langers2k quoted their oil ash in l rather than g.... didn't know if I was missing something

No please don't. It's the only model in the range that gets a 5 speed box and it's poor. Just get the 2.0 with the DQ250.

That crease line is the most difficult part which takes time. My wife had five dents taken out of the leading edge of the bonnet on her Mokka. £60 and the guy phone me up to apologise that he was unable to completely remove one of the dents to his satisfaction, I could not see where there was an imperfection to merit his concerns. He is an old school type who came recommended. That is priceless.

Taxation can sort that out ie excise duty on gas used for heating as it is for fuel. Charge the excise duty at the point of wholesale. But the direction of travel is that electricity become half and then a quarter of current cost to make and hence gas just get squeezed out economically. My Octopus energy contract is cheaper this year than last by about 8%, taking inflation in to account, and one should expect this to occur each year on average. https://www.independent.co.uk/news/business/news/offshore-wind-power-energy-price-falls-record-low-renewables-a9113876.html A new wave of offshore wind farms around the UK will generate power more cheaply than burning coal and for the first time will not require any subsidy. The cost of power from offshore wind has plummeted 30 per cent in two years with a raft of 12 new energy projects coming in at a record low price of between £39.65 and £41.61 per megawatt hour, the government revealed on Friday. That is less than half of the £92.50 per megawatt hour that the government has committed to pay for power from the delayed and over-budget Hinkley Point C nuclear plant which is due to open in 2025. The new projects will power around 7 million homes with clean electricity. Battery, solar and wind are getting so cheap we will need logarithmic graphs as they are getting so much lower than 10 or even 5 years ago.

Another thumbs up here for osram night breakers. Used them for quite a few years now. Do seem to have a shorter life than other bulbs. They do note this on the box though.

There's a point at which the few percent uncertainty from an uncalibrated device cease to matter. Even if the police estimate of speed was out by 20 %, that'd still be a long way above the posted limit, and it'd take a lot to convince a judge otherwise.

Yeah it's the only gig I've been to that I was deaf for about 24 hours afterwards. Bruce was awesome in his pomp on vocals. Will probably remap the 272 within 1 month of collection to around 340bhp on Shell V-Power so it will be capable of 0-60mph (100kph) in around 4.5 seconds.

Pre facelift is H7 & H15. Post facelift are twin H7.

Been there done that. Most notable cars were: Over 100,000 miles on an Austin Maxi (one clutch replaced). Scrapped. 190,000 miles on a 1.8 petrol Passat estate (Mk2, nothing replaced other than tyres and other wear items, track rod ends etc). Scrapped. 120,000 miles on a 2.0 tdi Passat estate, (perished turbo vacuum pipe) otherwise never let me down (traded in under the diesel Scrappage Scheme). 109,000 miles on a 2.0 tdi Yeti, only got rid of it because of the post emissions fiasco and the Trust Building Measure expiry. It already had had a free EGR replacement and I was not prepared to take the risk of it having to be done again (a £1,000 job). Traded in against 1.5 dsg Karoq. Circumstances mean I don’t do so many miles nowadays so went over to petrol. My philosophy is buy for cash, service them on the nail (minimum annually) run them into the ground (usually 9-10 years) and then throw them away! There were some other in between cars. An inherited Beetle (sold for the money). A Golf (too small). A Carlton estate (destroyed in a garage fire) and a £100 Mk3 Cortina to get me out of a fix when the Carlton was destroyed. Thats about my motoring history. “Buy ‘em, run into the ground and throw ‘em away” tom

Had the car MOT’d, then it was parked up for 2 weeks while I was away. So 4 miles after the MOT, where it passed the brake test with no advisories or any problem, I went to drive it one morning. Went down the drive at about 5mph & braked for the road, noticed brakes didn’t feel 100%. Drove 100yds up the road to the next junction where I was turning. Braked from about 25mph & brake pedal went to the floor in less than 2 seconds with very little pressure on it. By now I was doing about 10mph, took my foot off the brake & re-applied which stopped the car, but with my foot on the floor again. No warning lights of any kind on the dash. Checked the brake fluid reservoir which was full up. Concluded that as there was no leak, so the master cylinder must have failed, the pedal could easily be pushed to the floor even without the engine running & no servo assistance. I checked on the internet & no one was doing replacement seals for the Superb 2 master cylinder, so ordered a new one from Eurocarparts. Access to the master cylinder is rather restricted, you need to unbolt the DPF pressure sensor, remove the DPF cover ( 3 10mm nuts ), remove the 2 10mm spline bolts holding the secondary fuel pump bracket to the engine mounting, then pull the whole bracket over to the front of the engine without disconnecting any pipes, remove the coolant reservoir return pipe ( spring clamp ), remove the coolant reservoir holding screws so it can be moved slightly out of the way ( no need to remove the main coolant pipe). Once these bits are out of the way you can get to the 2 24mm nuts holding the master cylinder on. Remove the master cylinder reservoir cap & remove the yellow filter ( there is a cut-out that allows the filter to be removed easily, but in only one position ), suck out as much fluid as possible, I used a syringe with thin plastic pipe attached. Once drained, you can then pull off the clutch fluid feed pipe that attaches to the reservoir on the top right side, it is just a push fit. There is a small T20 torx screw attaching the plastic fluid reservoir to the master cylinder, I found it impossible to remove ( it is at 90 degrees to the master cylinder facing the wheel arch ), so with the reservoir being a sort of nylon, I put a soldering iron against it to melt the nylon, then was able to pull off the reservoir from the master cylinder easily ( it just pushes into 2 rubber bungs on the master cylinder ). I then loosened the 2 11mm brake pipe unions from the master cylinder, you can now get to the right hand one easily with the reservoir out of the way. I used a 24mm socket with several extensions to undo the master cylinder retaining nuts, the right hand one needs a swivel as well. Under the right nut there is some sort of metal heat shield, just pull this away from the protruding servo bolt & push it down slightly so that you can pull off the master cylinder. Fitting the new one is just a reverse of the above. I used an old Gunsons pressure bleeder to bleed air from all 4 slave wheel cylinders, needed about 3l of fluid & bled them all several times to get rid of all the air from the system. I now have a good solid brake pedal again, A few photo’s attached to help anyone who has to do this job.

Have posted this on the Mk2 Fabia Vrs Facebook page, there’s been more than enough members that paid a fortune for a new mechatronic unit. This could be be a saviour!

Ah, in that case it could have been letting fumes out. Well done.

The pipe from the air intake was loose at the rocker cover end and when it was removed to fit the new one you could see that the plastic pipe from the vale housing to the rocker cover had snapped off, I removed the rubber seal from the rocker cover which still contained the rest of the plastic pipe and then pushed the new one in, it's a bit tricky to get to and I had to use a forked trim removal tool to get the rubber seal out of the engine but it only took a few minutes.

Thanks - it was the spring clips!

Yes, on the left hand side in UK models.

A warm welcome to BRISKODA. The community was formed by enthusiasts of the Škoda range. We still are a community who enjoy driving, maintaining, modifying and some even enjoy cleaning our cars. Above all else we enjoy a mature respect for each other's views and recognise this forum has members from almost every country. We're here for similar reasons, so lets enjoy it! Your account with us is what we describe as a new account. Some features are not yet enabled on this new account. Don't worry, you can post new or reply to threads in the majority of forums. You cannot use the personal messaging system yet. This will be automatically available to you after you've made a few posts to the community. A few other features are not available, but as per the private messaging, they will be activated once you start posting to the community. But lets not worry about that for now. First Step? The first place to post is our introductions forum, http://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/20-introduce-yourself/ Let us know about you, your car, say hi, simple as that. Try not to post any technical questions there, better to use our owners zones, covered in the next step. Second Step You've said hello, hei, hi, and met some of our community, now you need to get some help or ask a question/answer a question, lets look at the owners zones. Each Skoda model has it's own owners zone within the forums, these can be found under the > Skoda Owners Forums < You may also be new to Skoda... we have a forum for you too > About To Buy a Skoda < Let other owners help you, no commission, targets, or order form pressure here! Škoda Citigo Škoda Enyaq IV Škoda Fabia Škoda Octavia Škoda Rapid Škoda Roomster Škoda Scala Škoda Superb Škoda Kamiq Škoda Karoq Škoda Kodiaq Škoda Yeti Škoda Classics For example you have an issue with your Skoda Fabia, I would suggest posting to the Fabia owners zone. The owners areas and all our other areas are visible from the main forums list page at http://www.briskoda.net/forums/ Next Steps You are now well on your way with the community here on BRISKODA. Your account will be very close if not already upgraded to a full member, enabling uploads, the private messaging system and more. Why not join one of our social pages? http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/281773-official-briskoda-social-media-linkspages/ Once again, I warmly welcome you to the site, please be considerate in your posting. We welcome debate, but reject cheap insults or keyboard warriors. If you have any questions, please feel free to get in touch, my email is colin [at] briskoda.net Cheers, Colin.