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This is incorrect. Car speedos to be legal must never under read i.e. show a speed less than actual. They are, however, allowed to over read i.e show a speed higher than actual, subject to certain tolerances. Tom

A big thanks to Rustynuts for sorting out my faulty Columbus, everything is now working and it has stopped trying to re-boot everytime I get into the car, Skoda wanted to replace the unit at £1,000+ so it was well worth the 80 mile round trip and a visit to Nothallerton for a Costa to while away the hours while he fixed it. I would recommend anyone with a faulty Columbus to check out with Rustynuts first.

Land Rover sold their soul to the middle classes and forgotten what Land Rover was all about. Supplying the armed forces, farmers and all the other worthwhile uses the proper Land Rover was all about. Shameful.

2nd up

Looks like it won't take a lot of chewing so ideal for an Oldie.

22nd & last the freshly mapped C63

21st Oooooooooo

18th

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Land Rover started calling the Ninety / One Ten / One Thirty the Defender and 90,110,130 and kept on using materials / fasteners that caused corrosion because they were dissimilar metals. Built in water traps / corrosion spots and never learned not to over the decades. They were paid too much by the military (tax payers) and utilities for vehicles. Sticking Transit engines in never helped things. They did a job but not that well. People with them had to sort out the poor design and components and those upgrading them now to make them last are doing what should have been done at the factory or the Special Vehicles Department. The UN and Charities and even the Taliban would rather use a Toyota or Nissan than a Land Rover, because they needed reliability and comfort is nice. I had Land Rovers and loved them. Not standard though....

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Called chasing the profit or Capitalism.

9th

The fronts wear down more so it is likely that you will do. It is a can of worms where you place new of the best tyres. I am still old school and put them on the front. The front wheels steer, do most of the breaking (due to weight transfer) and put the power down on the road. In the wet they are the first to hit and clear water. Rear wheels/tyres are just casters. If you rotate the wheels/tyres to get even tread, initially they will be higher on front, but will wear down so they have the same or less tread on the front.

Rotation is fine but NEVER have more tread on the front than the rears as this can cause oversteer, which is exactly what you don't want.

Breaking into parked cars for the dash cams is becoming increasingly common. Even for the cheaper cameras the damage is already done by the time that they have broken in and realised that it's only a £40 camera. I've always thought of it in a very simple way.....I wouldn't leave a £10 or £20 note on display in my car. So why would I leave something of greater value and interest on display either?

1st car on the rollers

Debadged the rear door today. I think it looks much cleaner without SUPERB 4x4 lettering. Also got rid of 4x4 on the gear knob, opted for simple matt piece instead.

£45,240 for a Land Rover Defender 90 S, from the company that flogs us the woefully unreliable Discovery Sport and regularly languishes down at the bottom of the reliability tables? Na, you're alright thanks...

Yes you still need an AGM battery, just because you have disabled stop start doesn't change the charging philosophy of the car. The needs of an AGM and normal lead acid are different so I wouldn't recommend it

"You are making it complicated." Maybe Offski but old habits die hard. The clutch in my last manual car (405GL) after 13 years from new was getting heavy as they seem to do with wear. Some minor pain issues with right leg, so I got into the habit of applying handbrake & engaging neutral at lights , but I last drove that car 20 years ago and autos ever since. I will try what you suggest and adopt it if it suits, but it wouldn't overly worry me to continue my handbrake method. I'm not quite sure with what you're recommending though, whether the Auto-hold is switched on all the time, but with this on are you saying it only engages if you press the brake pedal more than gently, yet that still makes the stop/start work, or have I got that wrong? The Karoq is my first car with stop/start. I drove a courtesy sporty 3 cyl Fabia estate (133hp I think) incorporating this 2 years ago for a day while my Yeti was being serviced. I recall that not pressing the brake too hard, or at least easing off a bit when actually coming to a stop & while actually stopped, kept the engine running, but braking harder stopping or when stopped, tended to cut the engine. But things change and I don't remember that car having auto-hold. One dealer, in my test drives of various Karoqs (I was trying diff wheel sizes, but I know, should have checked those tyre pressures), said that VAG & Skoda constantly strive to refine the way stop/start works and adjust on/off settings from time to time. I've no complaints about when the stop/start turns engine off on my 6.5 month old car actually, but I note complaints here about this cutting the engine too soon, from people with earlier ones.

Can't you jack the car up with the trolley jack, lower it onto an axle stand and then jack it up again from the other side?

15th

fit heated seats and cruise, lot cheaper than new car.🙂

Cheap, no. Easy? Bigger tyres. Or ask a fellow with a tractor and a scrap to scrape to drive? //SZ

Swapped my 13 tooth front sprocket for a 15 tooth and fitted a iridium plug, getting ready for a trip up to Scotland in summer

10th

Even better plus 72bhp over standard.

No probs. I used to put 2.2 (31) or 2.4 (34) bar in depending on loading so 33 would have been ok. I'll keep an eye on it. It might be just feel as my 2017 combi seems to have heavier steering and when I swap between cars, I notice it more.

8th

Good figure for a small lightish car.

Yep our rabbit hutches (big 6ft double level ones) have been tied down for at reason as one went 'walkabout' and toppled over one night with the rabbit inside... I was expecting to find a squashed bunny but all was fine fortunately!

I agree that that is correct in fact, but in reality, the only reason the advice is to swop tyres over is to even up wear - and swapping can't work for front wheel drive cars while conforming with that "front must always have less tread depth than rear" - once again the "experts" from the trade and driving safety, have not got things quite right! Edit:- me being one of the minority of people who seem to feel the need to use summer or winter tyres/wheels as the season dictates, I always measure the tread depth on removal so know from records where to refit the tyres to so that I even out the wear, I'd never ever refit anything that was getting low on tread depth, that would have been taken care of soon after swopping these wheels off the car.

Home fridges and freezers are completely different systems to what is in a car. Fridges have a hermetically sealed system that’s why they don’t leak. Automotive systems are different and have an open compressor, and it’s well documented that they can loose around 10% of their gas annually through leaks from o ring seals in the system, compressor shaft seals, and permeating from flexible hoses. But being a refrigeration engineer you will know all this.

Whenever I've had my car serviced & they suggest my AC needs re-gassing as it loses gas, my response usually goes along the lines of, "Do you get someone in to re-gas your home refrigerator & freezer every couple of years or so because they lose gas?". That is usually enough to stop them pushing that extra service expense. If they persist I point out that amongst other things, I work with refrigeration systems & they are spouting a load of bull5h*t.

Just about to leave, see you all soon!

I mount my own tyres onto the rims and always check the balance on a bubble balancer. Usually the wheels are balanced within 20 grams before balancing, but occasionally one is 40 grams out. I don't usually add weights to balance the wheels but I don't drive at more than 56mph. When I do fit a weight, they are of the stick on type. Clip on ones on steel wheels will take the paint off and therefore rust. Steel wheels do tend to rust anyway but I don't like the idea of scrapping the paint off myself. Using a bubble balancer is called static balancing. Using a machine that spins the wheel is called dynamic balancing. If you added the same amount of weight opposite each other but one on the outer side of the rim and one on the inner side of the rim, then the wheel would still be statically balanced but not dynamically balanced. In this situation you will get shimmy when driving at speed, but not an up and down oscillation. That's why dynamically balancing your wheels is better than statically balancing them. I also mend my own car tyre punctures by sticking top quality German made round (25mm diameter) feather edged bicycle inner tube patches. In almost 20 years of doing this, I've never had one of my repairs fail. I use isopropyl alcohol to clean where the patch is going to go, and a special tool called a stitcher (it's like a small roller) to get rid of any air bubbles. I don't think tyre garages are allowed to repair tubeless tyres with patches anymore, but I could be wrong. Maybe it's just too time consuming. Also, unless your workmanship is first class, the patch repair could fail.

I'm about to pickup my new superb next Saturday, remap is booked for a week later. Needless to say, I'm excited to be upgrading to a higher BHP. Will defo be looking at a stage 2 purely to squeeze it. Where did you source all ya part, are you allowed to link in the forum's? @shyVRS245

A 110ps TSI Mk3 in the UK has Disc Brake all round and i believed even 60 ps MPI Mk3's had. The maintenance required is the same as front discs, then there is the 'parking' brake which is not a drum in the rear brakes to consider. It seems surprising that anyone that is checking their tyre pressures would not notice brake discs through the wheels.

I must admit I have fallen in love with this little number by Maserati It's claimed they are aiming at McLaren, but to my eyes, a small, curvy, drop dead gorgeous, V6 powered Italian sportscar screams the new Dino. There are a lot of spy shots, but I won't waste anyones time by posting black and white squiggly covered test mules. This impression is supposed to be reasonably accurate

Mileage isn't the only consideration when it comes to preventative maintenance. Time is a factor too. Low mileage suggests infrequent or short journey's. Oil, including gearbox oil, does not get properly warmed through and can speed up it degradation. For the sake of £200 I'd be tempted to have the DSG oil changed now that the car is 5 years old. https://www.skoda.co.uk/owners/servicing-maintenance-fixed-price Be sure to ask if the price quoted includes the DSG gearbox oil filter. This is not an official service part so isn't changed. However this (in my opinion) is an oversight and for the sake of a few extra pounds I'd be asking for it to be changed. It doesn't matter how fresh / viscous the oil is, if the filter is blocked or partially blocked there is a risk the gearbox could overheat.

As for being unaware, they must have felt it. Years ago I drove far larger LGV trucks for a living and I would have felt it. Although it's after the horse has bolted so to speak, I am going to fit a CCTV camera covering the car park for the future. Of course nothing will happen in the future once the camera is fitted on the wall.

Yeah, shocks & springs are gonna be a bit stiff at that age, these cars are built to a budget, that's a part of why them cost less than VW or Audi. You could try working the front suspension a little, possibly with help of the wife. Whilst not strictly in the Owners manual or a part of the recommended running procedure, you could always ask the good lady, see what she thinks. What could possible go wrong😉😉😉

Weren't happy about Xenons switched automatically off only in summer months by my taste that aren't so dark time - Riga 14:35 no the darkest December day 14:39 on Russian Tiguan's(MQB) forum found coding for that https://www.drive2.ru/l/498312139799265393/ https://forum.tiguans.ru/showthread.php?p=1824068#post1824068 Controller 09 - Central Electronics _ _ Long coding _ _ Subsystem: RLHS _ _ _ _ old: 1EA8DD (Tiguan 5Q0 955 547 B ) _ _ _ _ old: 00885D (Octavia) _ _ _ _ old: 0088DF (Superb 2016 5Q0 955 547 A) _ _ _ _ new: _ _ _ _ 3СА8DD — DRL switches to Xenon about at 1200lx _ _ _ _ 3CA8D7 — DRL switches to Xenon about at 800lx _ _ _ _ 3СА8D2 — DRL switches to Xenon almost by sunset times i choose last one also have changed temperature threshold when ice warning comes Adaptation _ _ Control unit: 17 Dash Board _ _ Name: outside_temperature _ _ Values: _ _ _ _ p_ice_warning_entry_temperature: _ _ _ _ _ _ Old value: 4 °C _ _ _ _ _ _ New value: 2 °C _ _ _ _ _ p_ice_warning_exit_temperature: _ _ _ _ _ _ Old value: 6 °C _ _ _ _ _ _ New value: 3 °C

After this interesting debate, here is an update of some modifications that are now different on a MY19 compared to the older ones described on the Tried & Tested thread or even in this one earlier, so if you have a newer car you'll want to follow these instead: (All changes done via OBDEleven and information sourced via OBDEleven forums) Acoustic confirmation when locking/unlocking for MY19 2nd phase cars (after 2018/11): Old Instructions: Controller 09 - Central Electronics 16 - Security Access - enter 31347 10 - Adaptations Go to: IDE02269-ENG122188-Acknowledgement signals-Menuesteuerung akustische Rueckmeldung Change to active Trying that, provided a new option in the menu but no sound neither or locking or unlocking. Then elsewhere someone stated that on top of the above these two options under the same Adaptation need to be also changed to Active: Akustische rueckmeldung entriegeln selects " On " - Sound on opening, double beep . Akustische rueckmeldung verriegeln selects " On " - Sound when closing, a single beep. Unfortunately that did not result in getting any sound either so doing some more search I finally came across the complete set of instructions needed: New instructions for MY19 (tested on a 2nd phase MY19 (built after 2018/11) 09 Central Electrics Adaptation Security access: 31347 Name: Acknowledgement signals Values: Akustische Rueckmeldung Signalhorn: Old value: not active New value: active Akustische Rueckmeldung global: Old value: not active New value: active Akustische Rueckmeldung verriegeln: <<< Select this if you want the sound when locking Old value: not active New value: active Akustische Rueckmeldung entriegeln: <<< Select this if you want the sound when unlocking Old value: not active New value: active Menuesteuerung akustische Rueckmeldung: Old value: not active New value: active Dauer der Akustischen Rueckmeldung vom Einfachhorn: <<< This is optional - Select "Normal" for standard horn OR "Kurz" for a more discreet short sound, I went with the second. Old value: normal New value: kurz Only after all of the above my car started beeping as expected.

This is IMO where part of the problem lies, someone who pays a few hundred £ is more likely to research than someone who has bought a dongle for £20. The apps do appear to be far more trouble than they are worth.

Huh, so for you there is no difference in responsibility between enabling you to do mods BY YOURSELF and that the mods are done BY THE APP with just a click of a button? Interesting...

Ok, I do not have time to repeat myself. Read again and you will understand. A person who buys GENUINE VCDS (not a clone for 20 USD) in wast majority knows what VCDS can do and will not mess up the car. Every car that I was saving and the coding was done on it with VCDS was from a cloned VCDS and coding done by a person who just copy/pasted coding from an internet. In some cases even copy/paste was not 100% :). And GENUINE VCDS has some warnings included (for example Byte 18 on PQ35 platform, etc.). On the other hand Obdeleven MARKETS itself to a complete car unenthusiast as a one click 5 second no knowledge and experience necessary solution. And it is UNexceptable that they are playing with the lives of their customers. And with apps you do not do any coding, you just press the button and the coding is done by the app, so by Voltec. And it is THEIR RESPONSIBILITY THAT IT WORKS OK AND DOES NOT MESS UP THE CAR. Do you understand the difference?

Without trying to sound too harsh, contacting CarPort is your best bet.