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I watch tool videos. Ones filmed by Lee & Geoff.

Had another quick bash with the new camera. Only got 100mm glass with me so have to make do with a longish focal length for everything including landscapes which aren’t my strong point.

Hello, welcome to the forum. Considering the vehicle is not in motion, I suspect the ASR fault report may be a red herring. I suggest getting a check done for any fault codes.

Welcome to the forum. I doubt the Technician / Fitter can show were it is what Skoda recommend to set such a low Service Interval. The Garage / Technician should ( can) have set the Service Indicator @ 9,400 miles / 372 days. What an odd thing to do. Then it is annual. If that is only 3,200 miles covered in the year and a week then so be it. Strange to set it by what was done up to the service, or at less miles than a Fixed Service regime.

Hello, welcome to the forum. It depends on your annual mileage and whether your vehicle is on fixed or flexible service plan. If your annual mileage is Low (much less than 10K per year) it is normally recommended to change oil annually - (fixed)

Re the repeating thing. I am watching 'Fifth Gear Recharged', i do get feed up of VBH and the other telling people that if you fast charge it takes such and such time from 20-80%. People suck it in and might not understand they might be talking with a 100 kW or 100kW plus charger. Seldom are the vehicles they are discussing going to be doing anything like that on a 50 kW DC Charger.

I've installed it today, works like a dream

Hey Vlad, Thank you for your nice welcoming ! I am a petrolhead since childhood and owned some very different kind of cars let say. Owned a BMW e60 530D (Incredible engine, super comfy but without M chassis it was not sporty at all), then I had a Ford Fiesta ST 182hp for more than 8 years and I just loved it: not great for the comfort but driving it was a real pleasure, the ones who owned this car will know what I mean. Then when time came to replace it, I was asking myself what will be the next one? I was looking for a mix of both of my previous cars but with a maximum of boot space etc. Started by looking at Octavia VRSs (from 2017/less than 100k km on the odo) but wanted to have a 4WD and diesel is not an option as I do a lot of small trips. Then found that the Superb 2.0 280 was a great candidate and price-wise really close to the octavia vrs prices. Recently found a Superb combi with the 2.0 280 in Sportline trim with the DCC and a lot of extras so quite happy. It is quite an upgrade regarding the power, comfort, room space and equipment but I really hope it will feel sporty enough even though it is much bigger and heavier than the Fiesta ST. As soon as I have some feedbacks, will be happy to share them ! ps : on the side I also own a Mercedes 320CE from 1993, I do not drive it enough but cant make up my mind to sell it. Fred.

To follow this up I have this working quite well now using this set of instructions. https://core-electronics.com.au/guides/detect-speed-raspberry-pi/ I did upgrade to a Pi 4b with more memory. It's taken some tweaking but it is producing pretty reliable results now. In contact with the community council initially to see what can be done with the data. One of our regular little neds - The red box is the detection area. The green box is the object detected. the green box doesn't always surround the car sometimes it picks up on a part, or lights for instance. the system doesn't detect cars as such, it detects moving objects and tracks the object through the detection area comparing frames. It has some known values taken from a reference calibration image which it useses to calculate the speed.

A mathematical teaser ...

One thing I've mulled over for well over a year finally happened last month. . exhaust was changed to a fully non-resonated gpf back custom built system. i did loads and loads of research before having this done, and the general consensus to get any kind of noise from the newer gpf equipped cars was remove everything. . . Well I regret it like crazy, outside the car sounds nice, deep but not too loud. . Inside is horrendous, at idle it is genuinely louder inside than it is outside. It's got a very deep drone at "normal" driving rpm's -1800-2200ish. It's even been back and had a box put in just before the rear axle, which has toned it down between 2500-4000rpm, but below 2500 is still horrendously droney, it's really making me dislike driving the car for general driving - if you drive it with a heavy foot it sounds wicked,over runs burbles n all that, but it has ruined day to day life in it. Myself and a friend and going to fit some helmholtz resonators towards the back and see if it helps, if not ill probably have to have the rear section rebuilt with a twin box setup again. This one had been an expencive mistake. 👎

I agree it looks like a faulty battery but the same condition can appear with a good battery if there is a poor connection (including earth) anywhere between the battery and the starter. Look for corroded crimps and signs of black copper where the cable(s) is crimped and obviously, loose connrctions. When you attempted to start, did the starter turn over? If not then look at the small wire going to the starter motor.

Thanks I havent had it into the dealer yet - and it is not as bad as it was. Its a company lease car, so I wont be out opf pocket -

Hmmmm, more BS 101.

Battlefield re-creations, WW1

Hello and thanks for the reply, The car is 41000 miles, I do aprox 4000 miles a month as I use it for taxi business, I was quite shocked when told that skoda recommends 3200 miles oil and filter service ( which I couldn't believe) so in this case I should change the oil and filter every three weeks? Lol

In that case, oil change and brake fluid is all you need doing

Cue Jasper Carrott?

Someone in Wales has a sense of humour ...

TFTD Monday: “Before you criticize someone, you should walk a mile in their shoes. That way when you criticize them, you are a mile away from them and you have their shoes.” — Jack Handey

Thanks for the good explanation, that shouldn't be a problem anymore.

They all miss the Elephant in the room. Government cuts to local councils budgets https://www.newcivilengineer.com/latest/local-road-maintenance-hits-new-low-with-45-drop-in-last-five-years-28-02-2024/

Great how Irish Citizens get to register to vote in UK Elections / Referendum but it does not work the other way. Really as far as it goes for nutters, extremists, racists and fascists there are loads of those in the political parties & in Governments either side of the Irish Sea.

@wyx087 Geez there sure are a load of numpties about if they fell for such an obvious piece of BS as https://www.lse.ac.uk/granthaminstitute/news/daily-mail-admits-making-up-story-about-electric-vehicles-causing-potholes/ is the real cause of potholes. There are increasing numbers of private cars on the roads these days that weigh more than EV's do, and simply oodles of larger, far heavier vehicles as well. These are kind of people that politicians love as they can themselves get away with almost anything and tell those folk what they like because they know that they will simply believe them as it less work to believe everything that the authorities tell them, then it is to work things out and do research for themselves.

Keep watching channels like Mr Porterfield or Kate and James. The Youtube algorithm works in not so mysteries ways, not too different to Daily Fail.

but don't toss that comfort module, i had recently simmilar issues (depends where rust corodes the contacts ) i just gave the harness side and comfort module pins goooood clean and scrape off the rust particles....sealed everything in grease ( non conductive ) and put it all back together, works as new

Hi all. Does that (recent)? statement of 140K miles for Timing Belt replacement interval refer to Just Petrol, or both Petrol and Diesel? I can see that Ootohere has asked the same question... The TDi Timing Belt also drives the Water pump, whereas with the 1.4 & 1.5 TSi the Timing belt is separate from the Water pump. Might this have anything to do with this new statement or is it irrelevant?

If it is the front bushings, you will need to lower the front subframe assembly into service position aka lower it approx 10cm. This will give you access to the front anti rollbar bushings. But whenyou lower the subframe, it is recommended to use guide pins on the lower control arm adapter connected to the chassis and also the front bolts on the subframe both sides.

Turned out lovely once the rain stopped!

10900 isn't 109K

So, new ballast and a brand new pair of nightbreakers came in and had them fitted over the weekend 👌 The car was equipped with standard Osrams before. I installed one bulb at a time so I would have the opportunity to drive in the night once with two different bulbs and tell the difference. The nightbreaker bulb is indeed brighter and from a distance it has a purple ish tint. As for the install, I spent 30 mins on the right side ballast by easily moving the fuel filter canister out of the way and an outrageous 1.5 hours on the right side bulb and almost 3 hours on the left side bulb... The right side bulb I managed to fit the metal clips back together via the tight gap behind the headlight. For the left side bulb I gave up after 2 hours of breaking my hand inside through the gap behind the headlight and decided to turn the wheel max left and remove the Inner Wheel arch plastic just enough to fit my hand through there only to realise it took 1 min to fit the bulb this way... I suppose you would remove the wheel normally but I do not have a jack stand or anything to lift the car so I gave this a try with success. There are in total about 16 torx screws you need to remove for this and this is for only half of the wheel arch. Nevertheless, it is possible and that's what I will be doing next time if need be.

The noisy top mount has recurred and the car is now booked in for yet more diagnostics - hoping for a permanent fix this time🤞

My local Skoda main dealer previously advised fitting an aftermarket towbar may invalidate the manufacturers warranty. My car is a 2023 1.5 TSi manual which I ordered without towbar prep. I had intended using the towbar to facilitate carrying bikes, but gave up on the idea, despite PF Jones telling me it was feasible. More here: I'll check the plate on my car tomorrow and will report back👍

Remove the cover.

Not on my plate 🤮 (The other plate had some on it)

The update worry is the reason I haven't fitted "nice to have" things like auto opening and closing frunk. I do have "S3XY" buttons (https://enhauto.com/) because some things still need a quick button press (also enables more features, like OBD11 I had with VAG). That gets just as often firmware upgrades as the car itself, it keeps pace with OEM changes. Charge limiter. See "Charge Settings" here: https://www.tesla.com/ownersmanual/modely/en_us/GUID-BEE08D47-0CE0-4BDD-83F2-9854FB3D578F.html I always automatically plug in, takes less than 1s. Home Assistant automatically sets it to 50%. If I need the car next day, I would tweak limiter to try to arrive home at 40-45%, lots of spare range for unplanned errants. So in the morning, the car always have at least 100 miles of range in any weather. Never stress the battery far from the ~50% range and perfectly stores the battery for some days I don't use the car. For example, I charged to 70% last night for visit Hampton Court Palace gardens (free weekend). It was either 20 odd miles N Circular or 40+ miles via M25. Arrived home with 54% because drove via shorter route, plugged it in as habit, nothing will happen tonight but I can tweak charge limiter later in bed if needed. For simplicity, you can set car to always charge to 75%. Every day you know you have ~200 miles in the morning. Then up the limit if plan to travel more than 100 miles. Really simple, zero range anxiety, zero brain power required. With Leaf. It doesn't have as good charge limiter. So instead of charging 80% to 100%, I had to do some forward planning and as you pointed out, not good to automatically plug in every day. But now with V2H, evening uses up 30-40% of the battery. With day time use, can simply charge to 100% every day.

My solar was installed 15 years ago and is long since paid off and is now pure profit. My battery is on a zero percent government loan. The combination of the two mean that even in the depths of winter when it was minus 11 the total cost of home energy plus car fuel was £123 for the month. No one said it's free but it's a hell of a lot cheaper than the flammable liquid I used to use. 🤷

Changed the original disc and pads on my Combi yesterday. Originals from factory had done 36k miles. No significant wear to discs, but badly corroded and scored across approx 40% of braking area. Pads still had plenty of friction material left. Used Brembo (coated) discs and pads, with VCDS (new to this software) to retract EPB. Connected battery charger first as most articles I had read said do that. Cycled EPB on and then off. Ran full auto-scan first and stored results. Went into ABS module, checked no brake errors and ran Started brake lining change (or something like that). Error messages on dash about EPC and rear alert etc. Turned ignition off. Started on drivers side - piston pressed back in easily. Caliper easy to remove. Old disc a little stuck but a few taps with lump hammer and it soon moved. Disc comes off without removing caliper carrier!! Makes changing so easy. These are 312mm vented. After refitting with new disc and pads I pressed the brake pedal to hold wheel whilst torqueing wheel bolts. When I then tried in VCDS to end lining procedure it wouldnt - error values out of range. Decided not to panic and changed nearside disc and pads (again very easy). Pressed brake pedal to toque wheel bolts. In VCDS ran full scan again, Went into ABS module, checked errors codes, one for being in lining change mode. Went into basic setting to run end lining change. It did it! Went back to clear error code, and now everything works as it should. All very easy to do.

Update on o2 sensor just take air filter and etc out lol

I'd suspect the battery, especially as a failing battery is worse on a cold morning.

I’d be looking at the condensation, removing the light and drying it, checking any breather holes are clear and seals are ok and putting it back to test myself.

Rodent retailing ... PG [mildly suggestive]

well that makes sense doesnt it?

My L&K Superb estate in Graphite Grey with grey interior has arrived. Slightly disappointed that even on the L&K trim the USB port in the rear-view mirror is an optional extra (that wasn't taken when the car was built), but I'm looking forward to getting out in it.

Being told I should wait until the clocks go forward before planting my tomato seeds as this would give the seedlings an extra hour of daylight.

Front strut brace …. Yeah it stiffens the front up, but at the expense of increased understeer. Coilovers …. Yes it’s nice to have sporty feeling suspension, but as some will know that simply lowering the ride height isn’t enough as other parts of the geometry are pushed out of spec and can easily ruin a decent set of expensive boots! Not fitted myself, but reports on solid engine mounts have led to a more positive and quicker gear change, but at the expense of much increased cabin vibration. Too much for some who reported that they put the OEM setup back in as it was so bad. Finally, Big-455 4-pot brakes with fancy Porsche wheels. Yes, they can stop you on a 5p piece at 80 and it’s nice to have a posh badge on your wheels, but what happens when you have a blowout on the motorway and your spare wheel won’t fit over those huge callipers….. wait 4 hours for the AA!!

My previous vRS (2015 220 EA888 IS20) developed an odd delay in the internal heating. The silica bag was intact. The short story was that the coolant check valve had failed and was reporting open when it was actually closed. Simple enough, but took a long time to diagnose, with a lot of trial and error. I was given the go ahead to bring the car home, while the dealer awaited the part. Didn't make it home as the turbo grenaded itself. Turns out the coolant check valve also sends coolant to the turbo (but not if it's faulty!) and this was considered to be the reason for the turbo failing (I suspect other factors). There was swarf in the engine, so it needed a strip down to check if the turbo had taken the engine with it too (thankfully not). Skoda initially agreed to cover the costs as it was likely the check valve had failed during the warranty period, but then retracted this as the car had been remapped (after warranty). Long story here: My cautionary tale is that what appears a simple heating issue, can actually have fairly catastrophic consequences (which the remap may have exacerbated). For me that was a rather bitter £3,000 bill. Gaz PS: 'nuvver one; When I inherited a 1989 Mk2 Golf GTI !6v (139bhp), it had a K&N panel filter - one of the ones you had to clean and oil. I changed it for a standard paper filter, and confirmed via rolling road that the K&N, on this car, made absolutely no performance difference whatsoever.

Hello all, I've read all the posts in this topic and found some wrong information. I'll try to explain how the system works in short, if anyone has some questions, I will kindly answer them. To start with, the 12V battery is charged ONLY with the high voltage system, by the power electronics that also drives the motor (the big metal block with the 6 orange wires connected to it next to the ICE) to be more precise. There is no alternator on the ICE, so if you drive in E-mode or hybrid, it doesn't make a difference in charging the 12V battery. This means the high voltage system must be active to charge the 12V battery, so only when driving or charging the HV battery. The reason why there is only 13.1 or .2V is because the 12V battery is monitored by the gateway, it knows the charging state, so if it is above 80%, ther is no need to charge it, purely wasted energy to keep the system at 14V all the time. This is why the converter only supplies 13.2V to the system to just prevent the battery from discharging. When driving and using the regen while braking, the system will be at 14V, all the modern cars do this, not only the hybrids. Actually most of them only have 12 - 12,5V while accelerating, when coasting or braking the alternator will start to charge the battery. Why Sir_Ron_Norris' battery died, I haven't got a clue, but it isn't related to driving in E-mode or hybrid. Could be an driver error (leaving a light on, something plugged into the 12V socket,...), bad ground connection or just a faulty battery. I hope with the new battery the problem has been solved.