StevesTruck

They do rely on a bit of glow, I can't see it causing that much of a problem. That 19561 error could be a factor, I could be wrong, but I think that's the anti shudder valve that operates when the engine is shutting down? It might also be worth checking your injection timing, if your diagnostic kit has the ability. Have you done an EGR delete?

I've had a set done on a 2.0 SDI in a 2k caddy and it seemed to help the situation. I wouldn't expect a 2.0 to ever need rings.

I'd say the smart money's on injector seals.

Looks that way. Mines the current model if you want to try it before you buy one? I work in Lincoln.

That's decent enough - what engines in it? But of a comparison from the cheap seats: I did Dundee and back for a weekend in my base spec MK2 TDI. On the way up I stopped for a leak just south of the border. According to the MFA: 246 miles 64.8 mpg 4 hours 30 min 55mph AVG Not luxurious, but totally comfortable apart from my iffy shoulder starting to complain a bit on the Edinburgh bypass. Only real downside is, it ain't fast. But I was going up the A1 in the afternoon, so limited opportunity for that anyway. Oh, and I used a litre of coolant 🤣

That's not where your cat is, that's just two bits of exhaust that have come disconnected. No idea how, you normally couldn't separate them if you tried

I'm in Alford, get all over the place with work though.

Give it a spray and try again next weekend.

@Gizmo Can you add me on to the list please? I have Hex V2. Alford, Lincs LN13

I'd wouldn't fit anything other than Febi/Bilstein or SKF. Much as it might cost £20 more, it's not a job you want to be doing twice.

The magnets aren't always amazing on cheap wheel bearings. We had it recently on a mini where a new bearing threw an abs fault that we couldn't find a reason for, in the end, we gave up and installed a better brand and it solved it.

288's are fine for stopping, but the feel and progressiveness is much better on 312's. I've treated 288's really badly and they won't fade if you've got good quality pads and discs.

I've seen someone trying to use then and he was having bother getting them past the brakes, I can't remember what vehicle that was on though, apart from it being a modern 4x4'y-looking thing.

Mine's an autoleads one, DFP-20-02. It's not amazing, but after a bit of modification, it's about acceptable.

Give the screws a good spray the night before. The threads are exposed on the underside, so they can get gunked up, especially if it's not been off for a while. If you've got a small impact driver (the kind of scale you'd use for putting screws in wood, not wheels on wagons), it's worth using that to crack the screws off. Personally, I drain the filter housing off into a jar, so I can have a look at the state of the fuel in there, then refill the housing with a suitable injector cleaner. Start the engine up and go for a blast. I appreciate that's not to everyone's taste, but works for me.

What did you scan it with? I'd expect to see at least a saved code for an intermittent misfire. I'm not great on engine codes, is BKD one of the 2.0 16V diesels with the PD injection on?

It's easy done. If you've got some stiff wire (like the stuff they use for fences), you should be able to get in and hook the catch further up, where it's a "normal" bonnet catch, before skoda extended it with the plastic linkage. Random picture off the internet that may or may not help:

Pretty sure the fuel tank is different as well. From what I recall of looking under a MK2 scout, it's a saddle tank that goes over the prop shaft.

Also called a spline socket. They're fairly common, especially on VAG, so they shouldn't have any problems.

The CCM not responding doesn't necessarily mean anything, it can be a limitation of the software. Try a quick test to see if the motors are getting power: Put the key in the driver's door and turn it to unlock, the hold it there. The windows should all wind down, turn it to lock and hold it there to wind them back up. I'm thinking wiring damage in one of the door shuts, or corrosion in the multiplug.

The front mount they sell is pretty much a copy of the Ibiza cupra intercooler, so I'd imagine you would be ok. Check with them though.

I've always used brake cleaner as well. It's probably worth pricing up an intercooler because you'll never get it all out, and they're not normally too pricey on vags.

Any chance you could have overheated the brakes or given the suspension a hard knock?

195k......

Have you tried cleaning the variable vanes on the turbo? Any fault codes?