Warrior193

Strongly suggest contacting a mobile misfuelling specialist first, almost certain to cost less than a Stealer.

Hello, welcome to the forum. Sorry to hear of your mishap. No more damage will occur so long as the engine is not run or attempt made to start. How much diesel was added - was it a full tank? Possibly your best (and cheapest) option is to find a mobile misfuelling specialist to drain your tank and flush the fuel system. Do you have home breakdown cover on your insurance? Misfuelling cover may be included in this. Diesel in a petrol vehicle is likely to have caused no lasting problem once the system is cleared.

Assuming that this warning light query refers to the coolant level, not overtemperature, as temperature gauge is reported as staying 'at 90' - I'd suggest this intermittent fault points towards faulty coolant level sensor probes in the expansion tank. First check sensor wiring connection, then try gently scraping the probes inside the EV tank with a screwdriver. This fault has been reported previously by others. Suggest simple and cheap replacement of EV tank will probably fix, can even be DIY.

The OP reported that even with the brake pedal pushed all the way to the floor, the brakes are not fully applied - this is a serious fault requiring urgent repair - and quite different from any lack of feed-back or 'feel'

You clearly have a fault with your brakes, please, for the safety of yourself and other road users, have the brakes urgently checked by a competent mechanic.

Thanks for posting the update - serves to stress how important correct adaptation is when replacing the battery.

Doing what you suggest will definitely cause Canbus errors - failed light warnings, etc. You need the correct wiring kit.

Hello, welcome to the forum. Your fault is most likely to be an issue with the alternator - or the wiring connections to it. Was the engine running when you disconnected the battery to replace it?

Very difficult to read that image, even when enlarged - is that DTC prefix letter 'W' ?

@coalminer was the taken to the Dealership for any other reason than the 12volt charging issue?

I'd recommend asking an independent specialist for a price for the coolant drain/refill.

What proof has the garage given that this alleged spillage caused the 12 volt charging issue?

Repair completed, picked up Fabia this morning. Fault was P334B00 - charge pressure actuator, mechanical malfunction. SWMBO is very pleased to have her car back. The cause of the fault was found to be excessive resistance to movement of the turbo boost flap control arm. The part replaced was Turbo actuator coupling rod, repair kit 04C-198-701-D.

Well done for finding that, I couldn't find it after a pretty wide search!

Hello, welcome to the forum. I'd read that symbol as side airbag deactivated, but will check online.

On RHD roads, the camber will normally make a vehicle pull slightly to the left - assuming OP is RHD, he says vehicle now pulls right.

Damage to the NSF (unless a simple case of 'kerb rash') wheel suggests a strong contact with something - especially regarding the reference to heat and a lump hammer! Almost certainly this could have affected the steering geometry, which is supported by your comment about the steering not being centred - was it centred before you noticed the change in ride quality and/or damage to the wheel?

The 11.9 volts standing voltage is low, but could possibly be because some of the modules have not gone into sleep mode yet - the standing reading can be unreliable unless taken at least 20-30 minutes after the vehicle has been fully shut down. However, it's very likely that your battery is faulty - which can be confirmed with a full battery test.

I'm pretty sure that the front assist being unavailable is not a MOT critical failure - as it can be deactivated by the driver. Apart from a few occasions where mine has thrown a brief warning where there was no real risk of a collision - usually when I was overtaking a vehicle that was turning-off to the left in front of me - I've found the system pretty reliable.

Is the sensor wiring ok? in the second image you have attached, it looks a little odd.

The front radar doesn't affect the steering - just the proximity warning and, eventually, the full ABS avoidance braking. If fitted, lane assist steering intervention is monitored by the front (A5 ?) camera.

It does appear that your mount is broken, most likely that the grill has been nudged in a parking manoeuvre, deflecting it sufficiently to push the sensor back. I would think it's possible to confirm the radar sensor functionality with VCDS, but certainly worth replacing the mount and getting the calibration checked.

Hello JL, welcome to the forum. There should not be any movement in the radar sensor, check that the mounts haven't been damaged or broken. Hopefully the sensor will be undamaged if it's just been displaced in a parking bump. Radar will almost certainly require recalibration if the mounts are replaced.

Possibly something as simple as a battery connector not correctly tightened when the battery was replaced in January.

Very likely that there is a problem with either the battery or, possibly, the alternator charge rate - my money would be on failing battery. Battery disconnection is highly improbable to improve the issue - but will not affect any settings, there will likely be several transient faults indicated when the battery is reconnected, which will all clear after a short drive and turning the steering from lock to lock. Do you do a lot of short runs? How old is the battery?