Warrior193

^^^^ and check battery terminal connections.

Actually quite like the Polar white look.

Hmmm, not keen on the red/black contrast - maybe it'll look better in another colour way.

If the reverse light is operating, that indicates that the gear box reverse position switch is ok. Presumably these sensors didn't work when you bought it? Is this a recent purchase - is there any warranty? I gather there will be a very faint, but audible, clicking noise when the sensors are operating, have you tried that? You will probably need to get the system scanned for faults.

I'd say yes, rear sensors are fitted. Does the reversing light work correctly?

Hello, are you able to post an image of your rear bumper? The 'little round circles' you mention suggest that you should have rear parking sensors.

Relying solely on engine and tyre sensors and trusting service technicians to get it right is seemingly a common bad habit nowadays - I'm not suggesting it's necessary to carry out a full, military, first/last parade every time you drive a vehicle - but a regular quick check of levels, tyres, etc. is a great idea.

I recall having a problem bleeding a Volvo D40 engine on a couple of occasions - it turned out that engine had stopped with the pump cam lobe in raised position both times - simply barring-over the engine on the starter allowed full stroke on fuel pump to bleed properly.

Hello, welcome to the forum. The zip ties on the wheel covers were a common tip to prevent them being lost. A few scuffs and gouges on the covers aren't too much to worry about provided the rims themselves are undamaged.

A useful method is to be familiar with oil levels under both states (hot and cold) - then you will be able to check for correct level at any time. Level immediately after a run will be a little lower than if engine is allowed to stand and circulated oil has drained back to sump.

I have oil capacity for the 1.4, 150PS as 3.8 litres - which, I believe, includes the oil filter change.

In the case of a supply grid power failure, I would expect there to be a device installed to the outlet to prevent energy export - as is the case with all Solar energy systems (G59 relay)

Hello Mat, welcome to the forum. Is this 'play' in the hub bearings themselves? Are you sure the bearings are the correct ones for your hubs? Are the hub bearings the Taper Roller type - and if so, is there a spacer fitted between inner and outer bearing races on the Mk 1 front hubs?

E vehicle infrastructure still has a long way to go, anecdotal evidence suggests that existing infrastructure is way off set standards on service availability. Is there any control on charge pricing at present?

In yours (and others) experience, is this typical of charging facilities at present?

Yes, electricity meters can go out of calibration - utility providers normally have a set schedule for replacing meters, usually on a time basis. A user may request a meter to be tested if they believe it not to be accurate.

Looks like a bodge to me, I wonder if someone had previously wired-in an override switch to that loom.

I would assume standard Kwhr "smart" meters.

I may have missed it while reading through that - but I did not see any reference to periodic testing for energy metering accuracy - as is the case with liquid fuels.

Completely normal, nothing to worry about.

Good morning, welcome to the forum. It would greatly help members if you say what engine you have - Petrol or Diesel - and preferably engine prefix ( 3 or 4 letter prefix of engine number)

Reverse gear on a M6 gearbox is left from neutral, through the gate stop, then forward (same direction as 1st gear position) therefore is possible that OP is pressing down on stick and actually selecting reverse instead of first. Or the reverse gate stop is faulty and is allowing stick to be pushed straight across into reverse gate without first having to press down on stick. Suggest selecting all gears in turn to check that reverse gate stop functions correctly.

Hello, I believe these infotainment units have component protection - which means they cannot be used in a different vehicle without them being unlocked, was this done?

Flyback diode was the term I couldn't recall when I first responded to your message. Perhaps it's there to limit ripple.

Suggest giving it another wash out in pure alcohol after removing battery, then gently dry.