Warrior193

@chelon Is your coolant level relatively steady now that you are not filling above max. line? NB. there will be some changes in level, depending on whether checked hot or cold, but should remain in vicinity of markers if no losses from system. NB. don't remove EV cap when checking coolant level.

Is the car level when you check? if so, that oil level is far too high, probably by at least 1/2 litre. I assume the car was in for an oil service, what does the manager of the garage say?

Is the radiator fan running during the regen?

Regardless of fuel type, consistent short runs of only a mile or so as you propose are pretty much the worst thing you can do - the engine will always be running cold.

Hello, welcome to the forum. Has the temperature gauge done this since your parents bought the vehicle, or has this just started? I'd suspect a faulty thermostat. Coolant temperature should read approx. 90 degrees on the gauge after 1 or 2 miles. If your parents car has the maxidot display (small square screen between rev-counter and speedo) you can read the oil temperature on that - what does that read?

I rather fear that you will have to resign yourself to early DPF issues. As far as I'm aware, there is no snake oil additive that will help.

My MY16 Octavia was originally fitted with an AGM - replaced, along with alternator under warranty, within a year. EFB was fitted as replacement. If I knew then what I know now, I would have insisted on another AGM, but the Moll replacement is still good at 8 years.

If oil level is around bottom of dip stick, probably about 1 litre - only put 1/4 litre in first, wait 2 mins, then wipe stick, recheck and repeat. Fill to upper level line. Do not overfill.

Looked up for 2012-2021 2.0 TDI - same VW spec, either 0W-30 or 5W-30. Did you check oil level before start of this trip - or after the last service?

Good morning, oil to VW spec 504/507, 5W-30 for TSI.

From what I have seen reported for TDIs, the EGR is a possibility for coolant loss.

Hello Ingper, that looks to be a leak of Adblu fluid from the injection connection.

Hello, welcome to the forum. I specifically optioned the 16s when I bought my Octavia, but the difference in ride between 16s and 17s is not likely to be worth the expense of the change. The consensus appears to be smaller wheel gives a more comfortable ride (through taller sidewalls) - but the overall tyre diameter of the two sizes is essentially the same, so fuel economy should not be affected.

IIRC, the 0W oils were introduced solely for slightly reduced emission readings (through lower engine drag) use of the previous spec oils was permitted.

Hello DC, welcome to the forum. Are you aware of the well documented issues with the EA888 engine? Have you driven it long enough to see if it is using engine oil?

As several posters have pointed out, your engine will be 1.0 (not 1.1TSI) Is there any misfiring when you get this problem? I would not absolutely rely on scheduled servicing actually being carried out fully.

Some of those wires show clear damage to the external insulation, exposing the possibly intact inner cores - your issue may be with wiring that has breaks in the inner cores, causing a intermittent connection. Copper wiring often has a tendency to work-harden when repeatedly flexed, the inner core then can break, sometimes without any obvious sign of damage to the outer insulation. A wiring colour code list will help in identifying the wires to look for.

A fair point - but if you think about it, wiring connected to any door flexes every time it is opened, regardless of mirror position.

I'd be more than a little concerned about the short time the 4th owner kept this vehicle after the presumed post repair sale early this year.

It would have been helpful to mention asking price in OP. Still too much for a repaired cat S IMO, my very low miles, non-cat MY16 Octavia is supposedly worth less than £8k

£13,600 for a 2015 repaired cat S? No way.

If you have the 3 button key fob, pressing the middle button unlocks trunk/boot without unfolding the mirrors.

Full disclosure - no experience with Bi-xenon, but I'd say beam pattern 1 - number 2 looks less focused and with too much scatter between steps. Lower step (on left) possibly too high as well.

For battery test, battery must be fully charged before test. Is this the original battery? There should be a 4-digit date stamp on the top of the battery negative terminal (MMYY)

If that 11.7 volts was read at battery terminals, I would suggest getting the battery properly tested. At that voltage, battery is almost completely discharged.