Paws4Thot

Which fan? The low speed should run whenever the a/c is on regardless of coolant temperature, but the high speed won't kick in until the coolant reaches more like 105C.

I presume from the model year it's an Estelle? There were also earlier S105 and S120 models which may have had different brake sizes.

I don't think it's an issue, but as I don't know how big the unit is...

...and they didn't have to. They can pass your your data to a third party, provided they register that party with the Data Protection Registrar as being a party that they may pass Personal Data within the meaning of the Act to. So you need to contact the DP Registrar and ask for a copy of Yeoman's registration.

@Benjum as @PetrolDave says in his para 1, Yeoman's may contact you directly (or through a 3rd party with a one-time right to use your data) regarding your vehicle. They do not have the right to pass your data to Audiot's of Bodmin (place name used advisedly) in order for Audiot's to try and sell you an Audi Turbo Nutter.

It's not. Yeoman's bought the assets of Helstons (or Truscots or Bodmin Motors or whoever), one of which is a client list. A breach of the DPA would only occur when/if they supplied that list to Thripps Motors of Exeter,

Somewhere near you with a Hunter rig and a reputation. On no account use Halfrauds again!

A local to you taxi driver may know stuff.

Cite needed.

On the general point, the steering will become louder and heavier if you are losing PAS fluid. I think @Kostas123 is correct about the Rapid having a fully electric system.

When was the ATF last changed? ZF Transmissions recommend doing this every 40_000 miles.

Not seen many and "yellow car" is one of the spotter games I play on journeys (Others include "red lorry, yellow lorry).

I know you said "noise from front right", but this sort of noise is much more likely to come from the rear tyres sawtoothing. Try swapping the rear tyres side to side and see if the noise is reduced or eliminated.

Deja vu . I literally yesterday pointed out that LED bulbs show up as failed because they don't have sufficient resistance to show as working in the bulb monitor.

I say "go for it"; all the main commentators except Graham Butcher are on my block list anyway.

Well, there's your problem. The lighting fault detection works on bulb resistance, and you've dropped that to almost the resistance of a burned out bulb by fitting LEDs.

So it needs a service. What sort of mileage is it on, because I may know someone who has an informed suggestion?

They are on separate wires, bulbs and bulb holders... 😉

I imagine you should. Does your car have a clutch pedal?

I think this is total nonsense; a diode blocks current from flowing in one direction, but most assuredly does not "slow" current flowing in the other direction.

How does a heated windscreen clear side glasses?

Yes. but I thought (possibly wrongly, but based on your words) that your objection was to spacers and low tolerance gaps rather than to increased track?

Body Control Module; that or maybe an issue with the CANBus (based on post in the Octy 2 forum); needs VCDS or a good auto electrician.

Yes, definitely low temperatures or something else: more likely a seized calliper, handbrake linkage or a stone behind a disc backplate.

Relevance? The UK does do exactly the same style of stability test on double-deckers.