Breezy_Pete

Good chance you're right with that.

Skoda Workshop Manuals > Octavia Mk2 > Drive unit > 2.0/110; 147 kW FSI Engine > Engine lubrication > Parts of the lubrication system - Part 2 > Testing oil pressure and oil pressure switch F1 > Checking oil pressure and 1-pin oil pressure switch (workshop-manuals.com) Some test info with some pressure numbers here This is with precondition of fully warmed up engine. Seems to relate to previous generation of engines, but doubt the numbers will have changed much. In case link can't be seen, key phrase appears to be: " – Start the engine and increase the engine speed. Given an oil pressure of 0.12...0.16 MPa (1.2...1.6 bar) the LED must light up, otherwise replace the oil pressure switch. – Increase engine speed further. At 2000 rpm and 80°C oil temperature, the oil pressure should be 0.27...0.45 MPa (2.7...4.5 bar). At a higher engine speed the oil pressure must not be greater than 0.7 MPa (7.0 bar). If the measurement is less than the specification: – Check the strainer in the oil suction pipe ( → Chapter, Pos. 9) for contamination."

Maybe I can help with a rather good photo from an ebay listing: I would say it doesn't matter at all which one is removed to check the oil pressure, they appear to connect into the same gallery.

Whereabouts in the UK are you? I'd happily repair that for you by post if you can remove/reinstall, for a lot less than a new loom.

If someone reminds me tomorrow, I'll try to do a 'decoded parts list' post with all the different part numbers and which engines they suit.

I think non-freedom members can edit, but only for a limited window of time after their post was made; 30 mins or an hour or similar. Tons of other benefits to freedom membership though that make it very worthwhile.

Seems to mainly point the finger at the angle sensor or its wiring/connections.

Not the best made fastener I've ever seen! There's a seller on ebay with username vagbolts who does a lot of common ones, new genuine, for reasonable money and dispatches rapidly. I avoid buying from the Berlin based websites because it's always going to be more grief if stuff needs to be returned.

A multimeter set to volts dc will tell you the state of charge of your battery. You just need to disconnect it from the car for a couple of hours to get an accurate number.

The loom connections I mentioned are splices on the way between ignition switch and airbag module for its power feed, irrelevant to your issue. If there was a power feed problem to the airbag module, you'd have far more fault codes. The two way connection to the ignitor for the pretensioner is probably behind the b-pillar trim, as you mentioned.

Yeah, they often take a bit of brutality the first time they're ever removed.

No fuse, just an ignition 12V power feed (to the airbag module) straight from ignition switch via a couple of loom connections. Two way connector to ignitor for pretensioner, check for water ingress, I suppose?

That code usually correlates with the battery having been disconnected. If it hasn't been, a low battery voltage is very, very likely to be relevant.

Can you open this page? Skoda Workshop Manuals > Fabia Mk2 > Body > Body Work > Trim, noise insulation > Pillar and side trim panels > Removing and installing top trim panel of pillar A (vehicles without head airbag) (workshop-manuals.com)

Apparently it goes via pin 4 of a four-way connector pair on CAVE engines, 'front left of engine bay' (right as you look in from front bumper) CX1 is your alt. Blue wire is what helps it start up correctly, which it seems not to be doing. Alternative to visual inspection is to measure voltage at pin 1 of the two-way at the alt, with connector disconnected, ignition on. Should be about a volt below battery voltage.

Check for broken wires at the alternator signal (2 pin) plug interconnect which is usually on a bracket near the starter motor. Possible blue wire broken.

I knew I should've tagged my question with @JohnnyZenith.

Is the outside temperature indication working?

Check for something draining the battery overnight. Also see if battery light illuminates at ignition on.

You could temporarily disable the ABS system by removing a fuse or two, which would restore conventional braking, but I don't know which fuses as I don't have mk3 info.

Could well be one of the wheel speed sensors giving duff info to the control module. Not sure of exactly the best strategy for diagnosing this. If you have VCDS or know someone that does you could maybe look at the outputs of each sensor and see if one stands out as 'odd'?

I'll copy/paste the above wiring statements suitably corrected for you. Looks like they ditched the wideband pre-cat sensor in favour of a cheaper 'normal' one on this later code. Precat lambda heater is white wire from sensor conn pin 2 to 94 way ECU plug pin 7 Postcat sensor heater also a white wire, from (its) sensor conn pin 2 to 94 way ECU plug pin 28

Might be useful if you mentioned what car and engine you are referring to.

Continuity test info: Precat lambda heater is white wire from sensor conn pin 3 to 94 way ECU plug pin 7 Postcat sensor heater also a white wire, from (its) sensor conn pin 2 to 94 way ECU plug pin 29 Agree with your logic about shared fuse feed. STOP PRESS: there's more than one engine code you may have in a 2015 1.2. The above is for CBZB, but you may have a CYVB, please confirm which. See here if you don't understand what I'm talking about.