Breezy_Pete

Ah, have I got the wrong pin number? I'm seeing pin 14 as 'not assigned'?

Woah, that sounds drastic and expensive. Especially if a broken wire were the problem. I would say definitely don't consider new cluster unless 100% sure that the 12V 'main beam on' is getting to the cluster on the wire going to pin 2 when they are on, and you are sure there's no way anyone you know, or can get the cluster to, can help check it over first. LHD so are you outside UK? Did you try hitting the cluster area to explore the 'bad solder joint' theory?

See if you can see an rpm signal in measuring blocks for engine module. I'm wondering if the crank (engine speed) sensor has failed, and everything else is because of that.

Or the screws just rust like buggery? 😆

Ah, but look: (from here) Four wheel drive unit control unit repair kit Golf A3 0CQ598554 New Genuine Audi | Deutsche Parts (deutsche-parts.co.uk) Don't buy it without checking with them via VIN. software/coding may not be right for Octy.

My guesses aren't working out too well today.

I wonder... 0CQ598554 is shown as a 'repair set' with the control unit plus two screws. 0CQ598554 is a kit which consists of 2 parts Part Quantity 1. Socket Head Bolt 2 2. Control Unit 1 Perhaps the control unit within that is the 0CQ907554H part, but for whatever reason on cars built before 7th Sept 2015 it needs a couple of screws to fit it, that the suffix-D part didn't?? Wild guess.

Hmm, I can see on OEMwolf.com, that the 0CQ907554D was superseded by the 0CQ598554 part number (as lll and 7zap both agree on), but neither of those numbers show (on oemwolf) as being superseded by 0CQ907554H. skoda-parts.com which I've been using lately to find equivalences doesn't seem to know any of the numbers!

They (the law makers in the US) also said that defeat devices (those that switch off emission control equipment for no good reason) are illegal. In very clear legalese that VW couldn't wriggle out of like they could in the EU where the regs weren't so clear cut.

Good work.

Forget that, found em. According to this page the latest part number for cars built before 7th sept 2015 is 0CQ598554, and for cars built on or after that day 0CQ907554H. Might be safest to search the first of those numbers. LLLParts

Does anyone know where to find Haldex controllers in ETKA? @nige8021 maybe? I couldn't find when I looked earlier.

Double-check the bottom right red one, fuse 15. That looks to supply the heaters of both lambda probes.

No probs. Please let us know how you get on.

Yep, 10 amp standard size blade fuse by the looks of it. You'll probably be able to tell by inspection/eyeballing though, before buying one?

On third thoughts, yes, try fuse 29. 😁

OK, let me recheck. Not fuse 29 then I think.

Hi Jason; have you checked fuses? Fuse 29 (10Amp rated) appears to be the one at a quick glance. Watch out for confusing fuse diagrams that may need mirroring or rotating to look like the one in your car. Knowing what engine is in the car may help me to be more sure about that.

There's a post or two in this thread by a user named 'threepot' who sounds like a guru on these units. https://forums.ross-tech.com/index.php?threads/20254/ May be worth trying to get a message to him.

Is that under a front seat? Yellow connectors are airbag related I think so nothing to do with engine running.

Well done

The SSP I read on the N280 regulated systems says that a minimum of 4% circulation occurs, from memory.

Thought you might. Shame I didn't get my edit in before you bothered.

Have you still got the original Keith? Think I may be able to fix that, FWIW. No charge, just for learning purposes.

The N280 valve has a minimum opening which ensures that even when switched off a small proportion of the refrigerant still circulates, so no worries about seals.