Installed the second hand sun visor. What a ballache that is. I refused to pay £30 for the very specific pliers for the job. The old fitting is essentially sacrificial in this instance. Tried numerous ways to insert two screwdrivers but in the end just bust it open and broke the plastic apart then removed the metal clips.

New one just clips in without any drama.

This was one of those “not essential but I know it’s broken so I feel like I should fix it”

Also fitted Škoda metal valve caps. I know there’s a lot of debate about these corroding on etc but I smeared the stem in a bit of antiseize in the hope that this would prevent it.

I’m on the hunt for dark centre caps now too. I saw them on Ali but they disappeared and I can’t find any more. Kopacek have some but they are incredibly expensive for what they are.

Be careful with metal valve caps. They can corrode so badly that you have to cut them off. I'm speaking from experience.

20 minutes ago, Cairus said:

Be careful with metal valve caps. They can corrode so badly that you have to cut them off. I'm speaking from experience.

Yes I had seen that in a previous post. I’m hoping the generous smear of copper grease on the threads will help prevent the corrosion.

I don’t have direct tpms so if the stem needs cutting off it’s not an expensive job.

I’ve kept the old caps in the car and will keep an eye on them and change them back if they start to look dodgy.

Having had the usual issues I get every year or so with my car going offline after app updates and the useless responses from skoda support . I have finally got it working again , I decided to investigate the none working info call button , the issue seems to be a wrong number in the telemetic module

20 hours ago, Binx1310 said:

Thanks. I’ve got Brembo. Should be doing them this weekend hopefully.

I was really impressed with the Prime discs and Xtra pads from the outset, and once they'd bedded in they were really smooth and progressive.

A good job to do whilst scoffing Easter egg chocolate 😅

Škoda Superb L&K 2018 - The driver's door no longer locked. A new lock was ordered, Topran 623629 - Price €39 and replacement €90. Now everything is OK!

13 hours ago, David55 said:

Having had the usual issues I get every year or so with my car going offline after app updates and the useless responses from skoda support . I have finally got it working again , I decided to investigate the none working info call button , the issue seems to be a wrong number in the telemetic module

As in, that wasn't a genuine number? or it will only call certain ones? otherwise, you might as well edit it for a favourite and have a car-based speed-dial button!

I might try that could be useful . The number is no longer active . Not sure if the I call button is restricted to Skoda numbers . I am trying go to find the correct skoda number . Support want me to go to the dealers and won’t give me the number . They also have told me to go to dealers re other issues which I have resolved with various fuse pulls and resets . In my experience when the dealer messes with the IT systems in the past it has caused weeks of return trips and hire cars before they sort it out as they don’t seem to understand their own coding .

I've just got back from an 800 mile round trip to Scotland to recreate a photo from 30 years ago that my late wife took. Sadly I had nobody to take it for me this time so there was a bit of leaping into place after starting the self timer.

I used ACC in anger for the first time and it worked a treat on the way up on Sunday and most of the way back - I disabled it on the busy bits of the M1. Apart from when it mis-detected something as another vehicle and braked hard at 70mph. Which was nice 🫨

37mpg up. 40mpg back.

Edited 2 April2 Apr by unclerichy

Sounds like a decent roadtrip. Sorry for losing your wife. Hope you got the photo you were after 👍🏼

9 hours ago, travs said:

Sounds like a decent roadtrip. Sorry for losing your wife. Hope you got the photo you were after 👍🏼

Thank you. I found the exact location that the original was taken (thanks to Google street view). I'd post it here but fear that my sheer animal magnetism would disrupt some Briskodian marriages 🤓

Washed the 280 for the first time in a couple of months. Bloody Sahara dust. It’d stopped beading so it needed a new coating of ceramic wax. I use Turtle Wax Ceramic. I also replaced the air quality sensor with a Chinese “copy” (are they, or are they actually pattern parts?) unit I bought from Ali two or three years ago, as I knew it’d fail at some point. I think it was £13, maybe less. Anyway it works perfectly.

A couple of very minor bits today.

Chrome key bottom:

New plastic cap on rear wiper to replace the sun damaged old one.

Not quite as nice a fit so I may try to revive the old one.

Replaced missing caps on front wiper bolts.

4 hours ago, Binx1310 said:

A couple of very minor bits today.

Chrome key bottom:

New plastic cap on rear wiper to replace the sun damaged old one.

Not quite as nice a fit so I may try to revive the old one.

Replaced missing caps on front wiper bolts.

Solution Finish for the wiper cap. Probs the best “back to black” type product

10 minutes ago, travs said:

Solution Finish for the wiper cap. Probs the best “back to black” type product

Yes I was going to use something like that. And on the wiper arm too.

This was long in the making, but finally today I put my will into it.

Been wanting to find an accomodation for a fire extinguisher (here compulsory by law) for a long time. Not to have it swinging around, I've looked into the accessories' catalogue options, and I got the relevant parts:

Of course I realized late that this somehow is not correct for power seats, and especially with the Canton amp under the driver's seat ... so after some mumbling, I decided to use the area under the passenger seat where some foam cover lies, housing come ECU.

Too flimsy to be drilled, I used double-sided tape.

Initial test showed that A: the fire ext. needs to be with the nozzle "down", otherwise it interferes with the seat, and B: when the seat is moved fully forward and it is in the lowest position, it drags the thing until the tape gaves and the thing rolls on the mat 😁

So I solved the problem with turning the unit, moving it a lil more forward, putting some duct time around the cradle and around the foam for extra-safety, and leaving the seat a little raised ... will see how it goes, and report.

The other bracked I did not need, as it fixes to the floor, but I will think of some other use ...

On 03/04/2026 at 09:07, numskull said:

Washed the 280 for the first time in a couple of months. Bloody Sahara dust. It’d stopped beading so it needed a new coating of ceramic wax. I use Turtle Wax Ceramic. I also replaced the air quality sensor with a Chinese “copy” (are they, or are they actually pattern parts?) unit I bought from Ali two or three years ago, as I knew it’d fail at some point. I think it was £13, maybe less. Anyway it works perfectly.

How this air quality stuff actually works? I get sensor myself from ali aswell OEM part for CN markety, error code gone but how the system operate?

17 minutes ago, ile7 said:

How this air quality stuff actually works? I get sensor myself from ali aswell OEM part for CN markety, error code gone but how the system operate?

A very detailed explanation here:

Seen that long time ago, but car never start air recirc or anything related to air quality sensor automaticlly, so wonder how bad air should be to see this really operating

Changed rear discs and pads for brembo units today to try and cure the rumble under heavy braking that’s particularly bad using the ACC.

All went pretty straightforward thanks to @Bap33 brilliant guide over on the kodiaq guides section. No major dramas. A couple of tense moments with nearly rounding out one of the Torx that holds one disc on and a disc that refused to come off and needed some percussive persuasion.

Pleased to say that all back together with no issue and from the short gentle test drive seems to have cured the rumble.

Carscanner worked perfectly to apply, remove and calibrate service mode on the EPB.

Edited 7 April7 Apr by Binx1310

Today I fitted one of those memory modules between the loom and the stop-start activate/deactivate, so that it will stay deactivated by default.

Very easy to fit, surprisingly easy to remove the button bank on the right hand side of the DSG shifter. Only challenge was gettting it back in. There's enough room for the extra wiring, it was just getting the hard plastic bit in the middle of the memory module cable to go around the bend and into the cable channel.

With a bit of wiggling and encouragement it soon went into the channel and I was able to pop the button bank back into place

5 minutes ago, chrisgreen said:

Today I fitted one of those memory modules between the loom and the stop-start activate/deactivate, so that it will stay deactivated by default.

Very easy to fit, surprisingly easy to remove the button bank on the right hand side of the DSG shifter. Only challenge was gettting it back in. There's enough room for the extra wiring, it was just getting the hard plastic bit in the middle of the memory module cable to go around the bend and into the cable channel.

With a bit of wiggling and encouragement it soon went into the channel and I was able to pop the button bank back into place

It’s a bit easier to lift the whole gear surround area up to rearrange the wires. It lifts from the front first and the orange tool that comes with the memory module is perfectly sized to prise it up.

The modules work well but I noticed if I turn it back on in traffic it deactivates s/s everytime it kicks in! So have to keep deactivating it. I’m not in traffic often so the positives massively outweigh the negatives.

Edited 7 April7 Apr by Binx1310

12 minutes ago, Binx1310 said:

It’s a bit easier to lift the whole gear surround area up to rearrange the wires. It lifts from the front first and the orange tool that comes with the memory module is perfectly sized to prise it up.

The modules work well but I noticed if I turn it back on in traffic it deactivates s/s everytime it kicks in! So have to keep deactivating it. I’m not in traffic often so the positives massively outweigh the negatives.

I considered it, but lifting the whole surround would have left me with the same issue. If anything, it would have made manipulating the module cable to go down and then 90 degrees into the cable channel a little bit harder as I would have had even more trim in the way of my fat fingers. It just needed wiggling and eventually slotted into place allowing for the buton bank to slot back in without any force. I'll see how it gets on, but as I wouldn't turn it back on mid drive anyway (the whole point is to keep it off all the time) I should be OK as long as it doesn't malfunction.