30 minutes ago, chrisgreen said:

I considered it, but lifting the whole surround would have left me with the same issue. If anything, it would have made manipulating the module cable to go down and then 90 degrees into the cable channel a little bit harder as I would have had even more trim in the way of my fat fingers. It just needed wiggling and eventually slotted into place allowing for the buton bank to slot back in without any force. I'll see how it gets on, but as I wouldn't turn it back on mid drive anyway (the whole point is to keep it off all the time) I should be OK as long as it doesn't malfunction.

Yes good point.

I’ve got the same one as the photo and had it working flawlessly for the last 3 months or so.

Can someone send me the correct link to said module?

I got one from a friend and tried, and it did not work. He told me after it was for Tiguan - or ti could be defective, also a possibility!

I browse but there are a lot, and would not like to get the wrong one!

Thanks in advance!

37 minutes ago, leolito said:

Can someone send me the correct link to said module?

I got one from a friend and tried, and it did not work. He told me after it was for Tiguan - or ti could be defective, also a possibility!

I browse but there are a lot, and would not like to get the wrong one!

Thanks in advance!

This is the one I have

https://a.aliexpress.com/_ExEgR7K

9 hours ago, Binx1310 said:

This is the one I have

https://a.aliexpress.com/_ExEgR7K

Mine is the same one, from the same seller. @leolito so that’s two of us who have this version working on a Superb III.

Today Škoda Superb L&K 2018 140kw 2.0 TDI 4x4 car had rear and front discs and rear and front brake pads replaced.

New discs from Zimmermann

Front: 100.3300.20

Rear: 600.3252.20

Total: €172.81

New brake pads from TRW:

Front: GDB1956

Rear: GDB1957

Total: €55.12

Discs and brake pads in total: €227.93

the plan is to replace the shock absorbers (new shock absorbers MONROE C2516S) and ball joints.

Would it be reasonable to also replace the coil springs and shock absorber dust covers (new Monroe PK422) in this case?

Skoda Superb EstTe L&K 2018 2.0 TDI 140 kw 4x4

3 minutes ago, superbuser35 said:

the plan is to replace the shock absorbers (new shock absorbers MONROE C2516S) and ball joints.

Would it be reasonable to also replace the coil springs and shock absorber dust covers (new Monroe PK422) in this case?

Skoda Superb EstTe L&K 2018 2.0 TDI 140 kw 4x4

I would. If you can afford it. Then you know whole assembly is new components of known quality.

I recently had a spring break and it took the top mount and damaged the shock all together. Top mount and shock had been replaced by previous owner 20,000 miles ago but old coil springs reused.

Edited 8 April8 Apr by Binx1310

For those interested, the EA888 Gen 3B engine cover fits nicely on pre-facelift Superb.

U just need 2x engine cover ball studs (WHT007324) for the engine cover.

It screws into pre-existing mounting holes on the intake manifold.

My original engine cover had APR badges on it which was no longer relevant, so I ended up replacing it with the Gen 3B engine cover version.

The two ball studs screw into pre-existing mounting holes on the intake manifold.

Engine cover part no. is 06K103925CK.

I stuck a Skoda badge on top of the VW logo 😁

Edited 14 April14 Apr by JR RS

I need some good advice. It was recommended to replace the front shock absorbers and ball joints. I thought I would look into what is a good practice to replace them. I was told that I should also consider replacing the coil springs and dust covers with new ones. Is there anything else? I have attached a picture of what the area requires and what I am currently considering replacing (in the red box). Is it also a good idea to replace the parts in the yellow box?

@superbuser35

compare to part codes list

-> https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/510961-2023-280ps-lk-replaced-2016-220ps-style/page/3/#findComment-5854160

1 hour ago, superbuser35 said:

I need some good advice. It was recommended to replace the front shock absorbers and ball joints. I thought I would look into what is a good practice to replace them. I was told that I should also consider replacing the coil springs and dust covers with new ones. Is there anything else? I have attached a picture of what the area requires and what I am currently considering replacing (in the red box). Is it also a good idea to replace the parts in the yellow box?

When I changed my shocks to B6's I did springs, dust covers, top mounts, nuts and bolts basically anything related was replaced with the old stuff thrown in the bin

13 hours ago, tombee said:

When I changed my shocks to B6's I did springs, dust covers, top mounts, nuts and bolts basically anything related was replaced with the old stuff thrown in the bin

Thank you!

I made a list of what to change.

Cleaned the drivers seat belt to try and remedy the slow reeling in that it suffers from.

I used a strong bulldog clip to keep the seatbelt out. The Soapy water and two sponges did a good job judging by the colour of the rinse water!

Left it laying out for a couple of hours to dry in the sun.

It seems a bit better but not perfect.

If you have already cleaned the seat belt, I have noticed afterwards a light application of silicon spray makes the them belt "roll" smoother and faster. I usually pull all the belt out, spray with the can and at the same time pass a microfiber cloth to wipe any excess, thus my concept of "light" application 😁

But it works ....

3 minutes ago, leolito said:

If you have already cleaned the seat belt, I have noticed afterwards a light application of silicon spray makes the them belt "roll" smoother and faster. I usually pull all the belt out, spray with the can and at the same time pass a microfiber cloth to wipe any excess, thus my concept of "light" application 😁

But it works ....

Great I’ll give it a go thanks

2 hours ago, leolito said:

If you have already cleaned the seat belt, I have noticed afterwards a light application of silicon spray makes the them belt "roll" smoother and faster. I usually pull all the belt out, spray with the can and at the same time pass a microfiber cloth to wipe any excess, thus my concept of "light" application 😁

But it works ....

This worked an absolute treat. It now flies back into position like new! Thanks for the tip!

I now have nearly all the parts for the chrome delete project. Awaiting delivery of the black wheel centre caps.

Just need to find the time to fit them all!

Links to parts are in my project thread:

https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/537947-superb-mk3-estate-190ps-tdi-dsg-my2015-se-l-executive-moon-white/

Well I got some spare time this afternoon that I didn’t expect so tackled some of the easier of the dechrome tasks.

Now need to take front bumper off to fit the grill surround and lower grill strip, fit roof bars and wrap window chrome.

Finished off the front grill today. Bumper off job. Once again a big thanks to @JR RS for a brilliant how to guide. I was naive and thought because I don’t have front parking sensors that there wasn’t a plug to undo. Turns out the ambient air temperature is mounted on the front bumper so that has to be unplugged.

There are some who report changing the front grill without taking the bumper off. I have no idea how it could possibly be achieved as even with the bumper off I had a few sweary moments trying to get clips undone!

Really like the look now it’s all done!

The badge is not quite the right white. I think it’s more candy white. But I begrudge paying £100 from kopacek for two colour matched badges. I may get another couple of cheap Ali ones and try painting them myself with touch up paint.

Just the side view left to dechrome with wrap around the windows and the roof rails to install but SWMBO wants new taps fitted in the bathroom so those might have to wait a while!

9 hours ago, Binx1310 said:

Finished off the front grill today. Bumper off job. Once again a big thanks to @JR RS for a brilliant how to guide. I was naive and thought because I don’t have front parking sensors that there wasn’t a plug to undo. Turns out the ambient air temperature is mounted on the front bumper so that has to be unplugged.

There are some who report changing the front grill without taking the bumper off. I have no idea how it could possibly be achieved as even with the bumper off I had a few sweary moments trying to get clips undone!

glad to see the guide is still being helpful

in total now, i've removed my front bumper half a dozen times now, for various reasons.

i agree - i don't understand how people r able to remove the upper or lower grilles without removing the front bumper entirely, given the number of clips and torx screws everywhere.

yes its a hassle to get the bumper off, but once its off - it is so so much easier to access every clip and screw, without obstruction.

13 hours ago, JR RS said:

i don't understand how people r able to remove the upper or lower grilles without removing the front bumper entirely

It makes me think of this 'joke': Out of 10 people, 9 love chocolate. The 10th one lies...

😁

Over the weekend I replaced the plastic coolant vent union adaptor with a metal version.

Preventative measure really as these things r known to fail cause it is located right next to the hot turbo.

More info about it here.

Comparison....

Fitted....

Edited 30 April30 Apr by JR RS

1 hour ago, JR RS said:

Over the weekend I replaced the plastic coolant vent union adaptor with a metal version.

Preventative measure really as these things r known to fail cause it is located right next to the hot turbo.

More info about it here.

Comparison....

Fitted....

I've had my eye on the Racingline version (obvs) - all for preventive measures. Look neat and tidy. Is it fiddly? Do you end up losing much coolant?

8 hours ago, travs said:

I've had my eye on the Racingline version (obvs) - all for preventive measures. Look neat and tidy. Is it fiddly? Do you end up losing much coolant?

The link to my build page goes in detail, but yes - u lose a lot of coolant. I had to top up with almost a 1L back in.

Just filled my tank up. £102.23 for 66 litres. First time ever in nearly 30 years of driving that I've spent over £100 of a fillup. Come close a few times, but never gone into three figures.

I might go and have a lie down, it's a lot to take in 🤣