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So, I re-scanned today, and I've gotten a couple more of these - both left and right low-beam lights, on July 28 (I was driving up from Barcelona through a wide open, sunny valley, to the mountains; I don't recall exactly, but I assume the outside air temperature was in the low 30s°C). Should I be worried about a LED headlight over-temperature warning? thanks,

You need to get roof bars specifically for the Scala, as they have little pegs that locate into the recesses you refer to. I've got Summit bars for my Monte Carlo, which work well and have these location pegs and detailed specific instructions for the Scala. Not too expensive, either, and an Autocad magazine best buy.

I finally had time to drive out a few minutes and find a place to stop the car (from Barcelona city you'd be surprised how difficult that can be). My OBDeleven original-generation dongle and app don't consistently show "live data", or maybe it's really live and the car computer only reports certain fields at specific moment? .. but it was very difficult to capture readings for a bunch of the possible data points. e.g. "A/C clutch": "Function cancelled, marginal conditions have not been met", and "Lots of different data fields, at least intermittently": "Not available" (but then, many fields, would intermittently show some data, then switch back to "Not available"). Is this a glitch, or just a known functional limitation, of OBD11/ an older OBD-II Bluetooth dongle? That said, I got some fields: "Coolant temperature": 88°C (although that seems to be more likely the engine than something specific to the A/C?) Blower voltage, actual value: 6.1 V Blower current, 4.50 A Compressor current, actual value: 0.810 A Compressor current, specified value: 0.820 A Rear temperature flap, actual value: 20, 0.0% Rear temperature flap, specified value: 20 Compressor shut-off requirement, penultimate event: Low pressure event (gotta love the word choice!) Compressor shut-off requirement, antepenultimate: Shut-off from Engine Control Module via CAN Outside air temperature: 38.5°C Outside air temperature, calculated internally: 31.0°C Left front vent temperature: 10.0°C Right front vent temperature: 9.0°C Footwell vent temperature: 16.3°C Temperature after evaporator: 4.3°C Interior Temperature: 30.9°C Sun intensity left: 750 W/m2 Sun intensity right: 690 W/m2 Blower status: active Actual value for fresh air/ recirculation air flow flap: 60, 12.5% Specified value for fresh air/ recirc air flow flap: 58 (Something obscured by a pop-up at that moment on my phone screen) "...stop for fresh air/ ...tion air flow flap": 210 Recirculated air stop for fresh air/ recirc air flow flap: 38 Left temperature flap, actual value: 28, 0.0% Left temperature flap, specified value: 27 Left temperature flap, cold stop: 32 Left temperature flap, warm stop: 233 Right temperature flap, actual value: 25, 0.0% Right temperature flap, specified value: 24 Right temperature flap, cold stop: 29 Right temperature flap, warm stop: 228 Front air distribution flap, actual value: 23, 0.0% Front air distribution flap, specified value: 20 Front air distribution flap, air outlet stop: 234 Front air distribution flap, footwell air outlet stop: 25 Defroster valve, actual value: 243, 100.0% Defroster flap, specified value: 244 Defroster flap, stop open: 239 Defroster flap, stop closed: 19 So. Yeah. There's that. Um. What does any of it mean? (And, I didn't seem to have successfully captured anything about pressure :-/ ) thanks!

Just a thought, but are the drain tubes vibrating/rattling?

The 2014 Rapid turned over to 150,000Kms yesterday.

Thanks @Cairus that's really comprehensive.

Thank you, I was asking because if I do a splash and dash to get home to my normal garage, there is normally displayed on the pumps the minimum quantity, usually 2 or 5 litres. I normally go with 5 litres for safety. So I did a search, and as Auto Shaningans found out, that relates to the accuracy of the pumps. https://youtu.be/_S2sGMH_u18

The Car ExpertDoes a seller have to declare damage on a car? | The Car...What are the rules about any damage being declared on a car you're buying? Well, it's complicated, which car dealers use to their advantage.

Hi Frank sorry to hear your troubles, Think you mean 23 reg Karoq 1.5 if it's still in warranty just take it to a different dealer as current ones have not got a clue. Have you had it from new and what mileage has it done with you. Do hope a decent dealer soon gets it sorted for you.

@Graham Butcher there are various stay times on rapid chargers in different regions of Scotland. 40 minutes Stirling. 60 or 70 in Dundee. Maybe day time and not through the night. 5 hours to 12 hours on Fast chargers AC. No limits some places. 40 to 60 minutes on a charger just giving out maybe 26 kW or 39 max is a total PITA as the one at Turnberry is. And you don't know the speed till you have started the charger and you are not going to stop sooner if there is a £5 minimum charge. Many seem to not care about a £30 penalty, not them paying and they have a job to do. Time is money, and some earn plenty.

I had this issue too. Shouting about traffic jams ahead - which never were. The fix (for me, anyway). Car on. Four squares icon on the bottom row - this is the Apps. (Laura, Users, Sound, ...) Swipe left to reveal the second page: Traffication is here. Press Traffication. Top left, burger menu. Choose Settings. Notifications... Read notifications aloud. Disable. I hope this helps!

Help please. I have a 2016 L&K 2.0l diesel estate and the dreaded Engine Management warning light has come on and my OBD2 is telling me that the subject sensor is the problem. The local garage confirmed it and started around £800 for the tank🙁. Anyone got any tips/ideas? Very expensive at Skoda at £1100 for the tank and nearer £2000 for fitting🤢.Helllp

Hi everyone, I am currently dealing with a serious dispute regarding my Skoda Superb Combi iV MY 2021, and I'm looking for some official or crowd-sourced data regarding factory paint thickness and tolerances. After performing a detailed micrometric paint audit on my car, I found massive readings on several exterior panels that heavily exceed normal factory specs (e.g., up to 2,150 µm on the rear-left side panel, 590–720 µm on the hood, and 320–360 µm on the roof), while the internal areas (doors and trunk jambs) stay at a normal 170–190 µm. Before I push further with my legal claim against the dealership for undisclosed respraying/bodywork, I would like to double-check: What are the typical factory paint thickness ranges (in microns / µm) for a modern Skoda Superb coming out of the factory? Does anyone have access to any official VAG / Skoda technical documentation (SB - Service Bulletin, workshop manuals, etc.) that states the allowable factory tolerances for paint layers? Any official data sheets, personal experiences with paint gauges on a brand-new Superb, or guidance would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance for your help!

Not in my experience Applegreen for example send an email at start then another at end of charge i have come home to a dozen emails regarding one session with only the last one with a cost charged.

In the spirit of honesty, that buzzing rattle came back despite the magnets still appearing to be well secured. ☹️

Not too sure about what makes sense when it comes to public chargers. The faster ones cost more to buy while 11kw ones risk cars occupying a physical bay for longer, and high power/speed could process far more cars in a given period.

Not the case. Up to the provider / vendor, and many accept a false start. Some charging points have a 'Connection Fee'. Before the charge for electricity.

I hear that there is supposed to be a minimum charge, is that not the case?

MintyPanda, We're you driving on a normal road or a dirt track like me?

22 kW very useful or essential for many and often is not counted as a Rapid Charge and just Fast. But where there are Side Tethered AC it can be 22 kW / 43/ 45 kW. unless the cars are being scrapped that were using 22 kW then it might as well be available. Many Zoe about including with the NHS. If we do not support or explain charging and vehicles then we can hardly expect those without a clue including councillors, mp,s, msp,s etc to understand there are all sorts of BEV,s out there and facilities are needed as the vehicle might last decades.

Cheers Gaz. I was fearing the worst, too. I was bit shocked to find you couldn't just check the dipstick and top fluid up! I'm way behind the tech times. But I'm pleased to say it may be alright after all, at least enough to get me the 300 or so miles to the ferry and home. I left it overnight to cool down totally, and then started it and drove gently on as level roads as I could find in A Coruna. The transmission was a bit clunky at the very beginning, then started behaving normally, including getting into fifth smoothly. I think it was a combination of some ultra-steep underground car park slopes in hot weather, the after effects of a fair bit of mountain driving, and (classic me....) the fact that for the first time in 50k miles with me the transmission had somehow been knocked into sporty mode. So fingers crossed we should be able to get home and get any fault code/s analysed. After the water leak last month (which turned out to be a leak in the pump, not just the thermostat housing), I was convinced I'd held onto this car too long - but I'm hoping it will go for another good few thousand miles yet.

70p for 22 KWs, presumably 3 phase AC same as the 11 KWs, is a bit of a rip off. 11 and 22 should be same price and 7 KW a buf cheaper as the single phase AC chargers are much cheaper to make / buy. 22 KW AC seems to be diminishing as less cars can use as more cars come with V2L, V2G etc the download AC rate seems to be more oft 11 rather than 22 KW AC. Still yet to put our Mini on public charging but will need to when take to Cambridge next month. Will be a better experience tgan the Zoe with its 45 KW charging maximum and is known to be even worse at or above 40c ambient as air cooled battery pack comped to 5, mini and Scdnic liquid cooled packs.

Here in South Ayrshire the Council Tariff of 50 pence for 7/11 Kw chargers or 70 Pence for 22 / 50 chargers is a Minimum Charge of £5. When i had the Mini i might only need £3.50 worth but was charged £5. I no longer use the council chargers. Some places are £2 minimum charge, like Stirling, or it can be maybe £1.75 pence for the first kWh. Then a lower tariff after, say 55- 70 pence. Perth and Kinross, Dundee or Angus council chargers no minimum. But then if stopping at a charger like in Stirling at 65 pence a kWh then as well to get in at least the £2.00. There are plenty times I have been charged multiple £2 or £5 and had to complain to get a refund. Chargers starting and then cutting out.

I don't think there is a minimum. I have plugged in it starts and when i come back it had stopped after 1kw and i have had to start again.

Thanks to langers2k and the update link, it’s all done and working 👍