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Hi Friends, Has any one upgraded there Octavia Mk2 headlamps to newer style projectors.

Thanks, My plan was to fit a set and leave them there. How do they fit at the front, do the removable covers fit back over the top or do you need to leave them off? If the covers foul the pads, maybe they can be modified by cutting out a circle around them, obviously leaving enough clearance for the jack. I've found this set of OE pads which come with modified front covers. More expensive .. mmmm... https://www.akstuning.co.uk/shop/home/976-12156-genuine-vag-jacking-point-replacemementupgrade-kit-mqb-platform.html#/1013-jacking_point_options-skoda_octavia_mk3 Not sure why the MK7 Golf version which is cheaper is not the same as that that shown for the Octavia III. The rear is different, wonder if it fits?

Hi I need help to know which is the best Headunit upgrade for mk2 Octavia

A bit off topic but Proper car. No frills or tech plus bet it puts a smile on your face every time you drive it. There is one in Inverness and the guy driving it always looks happy. Daughters got a classic mini with the 1275 engine plus a mint Peugeot 205gti. Both are brilliant to drive and if you ever need cheering up I would reccomend it. Alasdair

I normally run on 'individual' driving mode, which is basically a combination of comfort suspension and normal drive. That actually dealt surprisingly well with most of the journey and noticeably helped to smooth out the rougher surfaces in some areas. For the particularly twisty parts, I flipped to full sport mode - having the physical dial to switch mode is really useful sometimes. That was more for the improved pick up out of the corners than for the reduced body roll. I didn't bother with the paddles; the auto drive was fine. The other change from my usual set up was that I switched to speed limiter mode instead of my default ACC/Travel Assist. I always do that on bendy country roads where I know I will be continually blending between brake and accelerator. It makes sure I don't accidentally get caught out and breach speed limits, which is easy to do with all the power under your right boot. The only downside was that I had a little brake pad glazing after the 45 minute hard workout. The brakes squealed for a few stops after the end of the trip. But they were soon re-conditioned and back to normal with just standard stop-start driving; no need for any hard braking routines to burn off the glazing.

Hi, As anyone upgraded ABS model on Octavia MK2 1.8tSI

Provided the BCM is correctly adapted to the replacement battery type, there will be no problem replacing a EFB with AGM.

Hi Friends, Can you help me in swapping the BCM on a Škoda Octavia MK2 to enable more functionality.

@MikeT850 was the problem fixed FOC - or did you reject?

As above, red indicator on fob should light when button pressed, regardless of vehicle status. Are you sure replacement cells were inserted correctly - and any protective sticker on cell was fully removed before use?

If the high beam is activated, pulling on the stalk (like you would pull on it to manually flash, not toggle) should deactivate it (so disabling manual toggle or automatic highbeam).

Red light on fob should light up. Does on my sons MK1. If theres no light maybe as said new batteries may be at fault. Seems very unlucky for two fobs to fail at one time. Alasdair

The "small battery" will be the back-up battery for the Fabia's emergency SOS eCall system and was discussed here in February 2026. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/538090-backup-battery-trouble-code-b1916f4/ Online comments suggest an average reliable working life of 3 to 5 years and, although a new battery may be (fairly) inexpensive, to actually replace it can be a very labour intensive task as there's no standard place in cars for the battery to be located. At least from your comment, it sounds like the eCall battery in Fabia Mk4 models is reasonably accessible.

Hi Pab Would you be able to send me the link ? many thanks Mick

More worried about damaging it with mapping 🫣😂

No worries. I think golf etc is in the bumper too

No. Replaced both fob batteries. No change. Q: Would you expect to see the red LED light with key presses on the keys, even if something amiss at the vehicle end?

Try an other battery for fob. I have had a couple that even though they were new battery they were pretty old and past it. If that doesnt work reckon an autolocksmith. Could be the car battery has gone flat even though it was working the day before. (interior light on etc) Had this problem a few years ago. Old car that hardly got used and car battery went flat with doors locked. Same problem manual entry was seized as was never used. We got a couple of jump leads and put power to main starter motor terminal and an earth to chassis to jump the car with 12v and managed to unlock it. You could also see if you can get to the bonnet release through or near front grill. Alasdair

not the best, it is old version till 2018. but it will survive..

Welcome to the forum. Have you managed to unlock the vehicle after replacing the fob battery?

In the previous update I completely failed to mention the one thing I found which almost certainly contributed to the reliability issues. Doh! Near to the ECU plug in the engine loom, the insulation of the N75 valve signal wire had a significant hole in it. There was sufficient surplus length in this wire to allow me to cut out the damaged section and solder the cut ends either side. I did not find any corresponding damage in the injector wires, but I did replace the ECU plug at the end of this loom with a new OEM one. Getting rid of the carbon cannister produced a couple of collateral benefits, in addition to removing a potential root cause of poor reliability in the wiring. The first of these was a minor simplification of the under-bonnet plumbing. The cannister purge valve releases vapour from the cannister into either the turbo inlet pipe (TIP) or the inlet manifold, depending on pressure differentials. As the carbon cannister was located at the NSR of the engine compartment and the connection to the inlet manifold is on the throttle body at the OSF corner, this meant there was a hose running all the way along the back and off side of the engine, plus a branch from a T-piece into the TIP. This is now gone, and the inlet manifold and TIP have blanks fitted instead. This is only a small win, but it is one step towards the planned overhaul of all of the engine hoses. One length of this hose is currently employed along the top of the NS inner wing, between the fuel tank breather pipe and the rollover valve by the back of the headlight. Another win, small again, is that the ECU mounting bracket incorporated a bracket to mount the carbon cannister. With this no longer being required, I trimmed the ECU bracket to remove both the carbon cannister bracket and another bit designed to support the clutch cable (I think). My Caddy has a hydraulic clutch so that support is of no use. Having tickled the ECU bracket with the angle grinder, I gave it a quick go of the satin black paint. The photo shows the trimmed and painted ECU bracket, with the surplus carbon cannister attachment alongside. The final collateral benefit is the freed-up space. This makes it much easier to access the wiring in this area, and will facilitate some further relocation / tidying in the future. I swiftly found a new use for the vehicle-side loom ECU connector which I had removed a few days ago. Previously I tried and failed to make a cable to enable me to do a VCDS scan of an ECU on the bench rather than in the car. Investigating the current unreliability has led to me increasing my knowledge of the wiring around the ECU, and this included the diagnostic connections. Applying this knowledge allowed me to get right what I had previously got wrong, and have my new comms cable work first time.

Thank you all for help. I've purchased: - Varta EFB N70 Battery - Bosch C30 Charger to try recover old battery & potentially charge the new one - Vgate iCar Pro 2S to code the new battery - intAct Battery-Guard Monitor Now just praying things will arrive, especially worried about battery.

Hi, Correct me if I'm wrong, but I fear EFB and AGM are note fully interchangeable. IMHO If OEM battery is EFB, I'd rather go for an EFB instead of gambling a bit on AGM.

Sounds like you've dealt with it sensibly. A cut or tired valve core seal can cause a slow leak, so it's worth rechecking that tyre's pressure after a few days to make sure it's holding. Also make sure each valve has its cap on, as the cap helps keep dirt and moisture out of the valve.

Good shout, Binx. A monitor like that is handy for spotting a drain, since you can watch the voltage dip overnight. Konrad, if the new battery also sags after a couple of days parked, that would point to something staying awake, so it's worth keeping an eye on the readings once you're sorted.