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The biting point is around halfway through the pedal travel, perhaps slightly lower, closer to the floor. With the clutch pedal fully depressed and a gear engaged, the car doesn’t try to move at all. The clutch doesn’t slip under load either. Even when driving uphill in a high gear, the engine revs drop rather than the clutch slipping. With the engine switched off, all gears engage more easily, even without pressing the clutch pedal. However, I can still feel the mechanical engagement of each gear through the gear lever, almost as if I can feel the gears engaging. With the engine running, shifting is noticeably harder, especially when downshifting. I’ve already adjusted the gear linkage following a tutorial, but unfortunately it hasn’t solved the problem. Personally, I would suspect the plastic components in the gear linkage, the gearbox oil level or condition, or even worn synchronisers before blaming the clutch. Of course, I could be wrong, but the clutch itself seems to be working fine to me. What do you think?

I have driven two varieties of this lever arrangement; pull to alternate between drive and sport. Lever returns to D/S position two positions D and S. Lever stays in selected position My current DSG has (I think) four modes: Economy, Drive, Sport and User defined which offers steering and A/C settings too 🤪 The Lever can only select between two of these, the others need an advanced degree in menu navigation. I use mine to switch between slightly annoying burble mode, and a mildly terrifying growl. 😬

Ah, that makes sense I've got a colleague who recently bought the previous shape Range Rover V8 diesel. It's an awesome thing indeed (don't panic, he has owned many Range Rovers, so he knows what he is doing )

Hi Michalson, I have a 1.6 Diesel, but it has a similar noise, mostly when cold. I suspect mine has a small leak in the exhaust, as one temp. sensor has a loose 'stalk' and a bit of soot around it. All other sensors are solid. Problem is, I can't budge it with a spanner I don't know what sensors etc. the CHHA has, but they should be easy to check as the difference is very pronounced. Hope that helps you find the cause, or eliminate one possibility.

Where is the biting point of the clutch?

I too am retired, I am emailing Customer Services. Frustratingly I live this close to VAG UK headquarters for VW and Skoda - the shiny ship's bows looking thing is actually VWFS - but of course you can't go and speak face to face with anyone. I'll report back when I get a response.

@Cairus do you know the specification of these capacitors? I installed aftermarket pioneer speakers in the doors and need to add in some frequency filtering. After driving round using a Bluetooth speaker for a couple of months while my MIB was being replaced I now realise how tinny I have made the audio.

I examined my original rocker cover closer, i popped of the PCV cap and took a look at the membrane. I had 225tkm on the dash and few months over 11 years with the original rocker cover. To me it seemed okay, no tears or holes etc and it had good elasticity still. Also the spring that operates it felt and looked okay also. Also noticed that the injector well seals were really snug fit, couldnt get them off with just fingers, maybe they are glued on in the original cover? If i remember right, the aftermarket cover seals weren't that tight fit but still okay in my opinion, seated good.

Thank you for that, I’ll dig that bugger out in the morning.

Guessing that's JLR and not just the J part?

Actually, now I remember that the noise sounded like it was from the engine bay or behind the dash in front of the driver. I wonder if it was HVAC related ?

Didn't Jaguar end production in December 2025, to pause sales until the launch of the new Jaguar type 01?

Hi everyone! I have a 2013 Skoda Octavia III 1.6 TDI 105 PS (CLHA), with a 5-speed manual gearbox and around 250,000 km. The engine was originally remapped from 105 to 155 PS, and the exhaust system has since been modified and emptied out. I estimate it might now produce around 170 PS, although this hasn’t been confirmed on a dyno. Recently, I’ve started having problems selecting gears, especially when downshifting into 4th, 3rd and 2nd. Sometimes it feels as if the gear lever hits a mechanical stop, and I have to apply more pressure than normal to engage the gear. Rev-matching or giving the throttle a quick blip sometimes helps. I’ve also noticed that 5th gear can be difficult to engage, and the lever doesn’t always seem to return smoothly from the 5th gear position. However, the lever seems to return to the centre normally from the other positions. The clutch doesn’t slip, and gear selection doesn’t seem to improve significantly with the clutch pedal fully depressed. The problems appeared after someone else drove the car quite aggressively, including some hard acceleration and rough gear changes. I’ve already adjusted the gear selector cables following an online tutorial, but unfortunately the problem persists. I’m wondering whether this could be caused by worn gearbox components, damaged synchronisers, a clutch issue, or something else. Has anyone experienced similar symptoms with this 5-speed gearbox? I’m also planning to check the gearbox oil level. Any advice or experiences would be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance!

Greetings to all and 👋 I own a 2003 Skoda fabia 1.4 16v with the BBZ engine manual gearbox I'm also new to this community,oh and I live in Barbados I purchased this car 3 years ago, thus is my 2nd fabia, the first being a 2005 model with the said BBZ engine, at present here at home in Barbados there's no longer any representation for Skoda the last set of cars was 2005 both for the Octavia and the fabias, anyhow we move onwards, when I first got it I couldn't understand why on cold start idle it would tremble before smoothening out as the engine reached temperature, earlier this year I took it to get a kube service and change some hardware EGR valve namely, during the scan this code came up "TCM" we figured out that the computer in the car was not the original one and that it was for the automatic version of a similar model I have 2 keys and could not at first figure out why, let's fast forward,found out a few weeks ago as I attended another technician to have a manual computer installed which I am in the process of returning because it's not coding that the second key which is the driving key is part of an ECU kit ( new to me ) The car idles poor, runs very rich underperforms and I do not think the EGR valve works either as a result of this faulty marriage I started a search for said ECU kits online found a site in Lithuania but they do not ship outside of the European union also tried eBay (us) nothing as yet Can anyone provide me with the appropriate guidance please, I know the potential of these cars, and I appreciate them very much just want to get normalcy so I can move on to do other things I await your kind response

The photo was taken while in Normal mode also.

Yep, that's the blower motor. I dug up the service manual, the resistor pack is on the side of the heater box, right behind the blower fan. (Part marked with 8 on the pic below) You can see wires from the motor leading to it.

Jag sales up by a quarter ! Maybe buyers getting their last diesel models before deletion. Dead cat bounce !

Hi. Go to the MkI Fabia section (link below) and click on 'Start new topic' (Green tab in pic below) and ask there. Not many people read the welcome section but if you do what I've suggested, other owners will get to see it and hopefully help you out ✌ Maybe you can copy and paste from here? https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/26-skoda-fabia-mk1-1999-2007/

Discovered a line of dead pixels in my new mib2.5 screen today. Luckily there was one day left to return it to eBay! Replacement ordered.

Thereare no fault codes listed for the transmission. Otherfault codes perhaps seem related to low battery and low battery can affect the gearbox. The battery is over 7 years old so i'm going to replace it. The current one, fitted under warranty at a few months old is 70 amps. Number plate checking suggets 60 amp is appropriate. Any thoughts.

This is interesting

I expect flying really ruins ones miles per kwh....

Thank you anyway!!!

Thanks for all the replies!

Unfortunately I don't have this firmware ☹️