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Counting the hours before the handover scehduled tomorrow! 🤩 Having it delivered on not-so-sexy Luter 19" Nordic winter tires, heading for the mountains on Saturday. Will be a nice upgrade from running a classic Audi throughout the summer season.

There should be, lots of stories of people dropping it inside the door.

Undo the top a few turns and then begin undoing the bottom one a little at a time whilst pulling on the lock and it should pop out. I think I had trouble with the online guides because mine was stuck.

Do you recommend a Eichach Pro Kit alongside the B8 bilsteins?

the fault code is C100D13 Says left hand Parking Brake Motor voltage supply - open circuit Wondering if it could be a simple thing such as dirty connector but not sure about disconnecting it as don't want to break the clip on the connector.

We hung around and were fortunate to see a Spitfire, Hurricane and Dakota 1470330~2.mp4

Angle tightening is essential for fasteners that are taken into the plastic region, but far more often it is simply a far more accurate way of tensioning a(ny) bolt compared to torque alone. The impact and variability of friction when tightening only by torque creates wide uncertainty in the achieved pre-tension. Angle tightening is independent of friction because the bolt extension is directly related to thread pitch and the angle used. Smaller torque plus angle gives a far more predictable outcome. So it's just a better way of tightening important fasteners, not a guarantee that the bolt in question is permanently lengthened in each usage.

Hello bud, Exactly as I've read, anything 1/4 torn are stretch. Ai tells me they are an extra turn but I'll try and look into it further. Someone on a fb page said he's always just reused them without a worry

Not normal (and let’s face it, it’s a change that you’ve flagged so you’re on the right track). My money’s on a lower arm bush split meaning as the weight moves forward under slowing down (you mention lifting off but not about braking…?) and then moving back under acceleration there is plenty around the bushes that can move enough to have metal strike metal. Best bet is to get it to somewhere to get it up on a ramp and have a good look and wiggle around.

Bought a new cylinder from a local motor factor, then tried to buy a matching one from ebay (the factor could only get one) and the ebay lads said 'are you sure? that's not the right one'. and we discovered that my old pistons are 22mm and the one the factor gave me was a 19.5mm for an ABS car. My truck is too old and **** for that kind of disaster preparedness. The ebay dude VERY kindly gave me the correct part number which has now gone via autodoc (hmm) and evri (eurgh) and hopefully in a few days we'll have working rear brakes again. No sills ordered yet, I need to wait for payday.

Hi, I am looking for a 2 DIN fascia for my Skoda Rapid after fitting an after market 9 inch android head unit. The part code is in the title. Anyone know where I can get one in the uk? There are hundreds on eBay but they are all in Lithuania....!! I don't want to go to main dealer as I'm sure they won't be cheap. Any help would be appreciated, thanks Image attached.

Hi, I'm looking for the file to unlock carplay on my MIB2. Can you help please? 🙏

Ash content was 20%, which I was told was quite good/normal for a 71,000 miler. I do regular 10 mile runs around town..ish, and a 15 mile there and same on return blast down my local motorway once or twice a week. As I said, I hold the appropriate gear to keep the revs up to 2500-3000 as much as possible when I sense it's regenerating....usually when the mpg won't go above 43.5 whereas it's usually in the low 50's Never had an issue, and do lob a bottle of DPF cleaner in the tank a couple of times a year too to try and keep on top of it. I'm probably worrying about nothing. Absolutely love this car btw.

Hello, I have a 2021 Škoda Superb Combi 4x4, 2.0 TDI DSG, 7-speed. I would like to know what could be wrong, or whether this is normal. At low speeds, usually in first or second gear, when I lift off the accelerator and then accelerate again, I can hear a knocking sound coming from the front of the car. For example, when approaching a speed bump, I release the accelerator and then press it again, and I hear a knock from the front. In other words, if I am driving on a flat road at around 20–30 km/h and repeatedly lift off and then apply the accelerator, I can hear a metallic knocking sound coming from the front. It seems to me that the sound is more noticeable when I let the engine slow the car down and then accelerate again. What could be causing this? Is this normal for this car, or could something be worn or faulty?

When I did my MK2 I just reused the originals and have had no problems although I believe they are stretch bolts so should have been replaced. Think if it gives a torque and then a degree angle they are stretch. If its just a torque setting then they are not. Alasdair

I've been out today in the car and it's updated to version 0334 successfully! Two problems that I had since I bought the car two years ago was that when I pressed a location pin on the map that I want to go to, it came up with the address as England, Deutschland and also, when I looked in Traffication, it showed the traffic laws for Germany but it never issued any notifications for the UK. The dealers tried to fix it but without success and said I'll have to wait for a software update and at long last it's done. It now shows the address as United Kingdom and the traffic laws for the same. I'll have to wait to see if I get any notifications now as I've said yes to all the options, so hopefully something will happen.

On mine, after the update, the shop application is in a different tile position: top-row far right. Previously it was bottom row far right... After a week, I have had no further updates so it seems 0334 was the enabler to solving the issue for me. Gabbo

Theyre back from having a cuppa 👍 And a chute deployed

Hi there, they’re away at the moment, back tomorrow However, I have now managed to send a PM on here with my phone number if that’s easier. Top right of the screen, envelope symbol for messages.

yeah i am Jack Radesk on facebook, black profile picture

Yep ! Pain in the derrière doesn’t come close. I console myself with the thought that 99.9% of the population will just go ‘ooh, nice clean car ‘ It’s only the saddo’s like us that know ( or notice ) Don’t worry too much, if you’re anything like me, the sleepless nights spent festering over the gunge filled trough behind your wheels will ease after the first six months of ownership.

Once you locate the correct parts Location can be important as far as getting delivery. EU, Non EU including UK, Rest of World outwith Europe.

I started restoring the interior of my old car and now I realize there are way more little details than I thought At first, I just wanted to replace the floor mats, but now I’ve moved on to the door handles, trim, door components, and all sorts of little things. I found some parts on AUTODOC, and RIDEX has a few as well. I also came across goCORE, but I don’t know anything about it yet. The most important thing for me right now isn’t the lowest price, but making sure the part actually fits my specific model. I’ve already ordered a universal part once that looked great in the photo but turned out to be practically useless in the car.

Thanks for that, it will help if I do have to remove bumper. Was hoping someone would tell me there's another way, such as removal of the lower panel (spoiler? diffuser?) only. Your effort is appreciated.

PROBLEM SOLVED Firstly, thanks to the people who offered advice for this problem especially (again) Breezy Pete. The post is a bit old now but I think it's best to inform others of the solution...... The non running fans were caused by the failure of the air con. I mulled over this problem and after Breezy Pete's suggestion started checking out the air con and yes there was no pressure whatsoever in the air con system. This of course led to the inevitable replacement of the condenser. I have now completed this task but what a pain in the neck this job really, really was. Every single torx and multi spline bolt fought me every step of the way (2005, so 21 yrs old etc.). It made what should have been a reasonable simple job into the most frustrating and annoying job on a car I can remember..... If I ever meet the guy who invented torx, xzn fixings.....well, I hope I don't....loool. So, condenser replaced (eventually), the air con system re-gassed and magically the cooling fans are now both operating so it was nothing to do with the fan controller module.. I have still yet to see the engine cooling fan operate on its own but I've come to the conclusion that the engine just doesn't heat enough to trip the fan (the coolant radiator is reasonably recent) but I've noticed already that driving around with the air con operating the engine temp just takes that little bit longer to reach normal operating temperature obviously the fans are now operating. So, once again thanks to all who read and offered solutions and I hope my experience helps others. Regards Tom