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Exactly!

i've got same here. Was working with old maps and INRIX, but no longer :-(

Doesnt take much to leak especially exhaust into coolant. Hopefully pressure test comes back good and a new gasket cures it. Alasdair

Look also for the carbon build up on the intake valve, it's a direct fuel injection engine a walnut blast could be nice

Could be an ABS wheel speed sensor! when problematic the car goes in to limp mode!

Hi all. I have a 2023 Octavia VRS Phev and have had the usual software bugs and gremlins over the years. Something I have only started to notice recently however is that I’ll often find that the car is unlocked, sometimes having been so all night. And yet at other times, when I want it to remain unlocked (while I am washing it for example) it will keep on locking itself, despite me repeatedly unlocking it again. I know all about the key not being kept too close to the car etc etc, and I know for fact that I am not forgetting to lock it when I walk away. I have been driving for more than 25 years now and locking a car is just something you do without even thinking about it. Does anyone else have this issue at all, or shall I just chalk it up to being another one of my cars quirks?

Head is off, no obvious cracks (which is goodish), will be dropping it off on Friday for pressure testing. I do think there are some areas where it could have been leaking combustion gasses, thats the spots on 2 and 3 there it its got dark soot, not 100% sure but more evidence.

Here's the diagram. The R5/J17 relay on the top. J362 is the ECU The "a" connection then continues to S4 fuse, which also powers injectors. Makes me think if someone connected it right to the 15 lead to bypass the immobiliser (not sure if it disconnects just the fuel pump relay or disables injector outputs, too on the 1.6)

...But that's the whole point of tyre rotation - reposition them before the wear pattern get too set.

But this is just a restart without reseting to factory settings...

My wife has a used 2020 model that has just started refusing to charge using our domestic 13A supply. Symptoms are; Flashes orange led for 30 secs then acts as if charge completed. Same result with a different cable that shows initially 0.4 A then 0 Car seems to be sending the wrong signals to charge cable. This is the early model with no Bluetooth so we cant connect an App. The only way I can get charge in now is to leave the Ignition on and press the Chsrge button on the centre console but that is not ideal as the cae then cant be locked! Any ideas what to check? The 12v battery went a bit low but has since been recharged and id ok.

What size and make of tyres are you planning to fit to the 17"-diameter wheels? The 18"-diameter wheels fitted as standard to the Fabia 130 carry 215/40 R18 tyres, whereas the tyres fitted when a Fabia Mk4 has 17"-diameter wheels are 215/45 R17. I wouldn't have thought that dropping the wheel diameter from 18" to 17" and fitting tyres that have the same width but a 45 'height' (rather than a 40 'height') would offer a worthwhile increase in pothole protection. For that you'd need to go to something like 215/60 R17, but that would look odd and there might be under-wheel-arch clearance problems with the 130 model.

Connector was removed at the aerial. 5v measured on the coax. DTC aeriial fault wtill coming up after clearing it. So not being caused by the sharkfin. I ha ve therefore put it all back together for now,

I also recall them from installing a towbar, but I can't remember if they were behind the bumper or behind the inner wheel arch liner, and I don't know where to start ;)

I can't hear the relay clicking, but there is a relay in the fuse box, and I tested it externally and it's good, so I've concluded that I either need to take it from the ECU cable or from under the steering wheel.

Thank You for answer, i'll do that

Maybe he connected legs of relay. Can you hear pump relay disconnecting after couple of seconds? Or maybe there is no relay just jumper.

Ok so the car works, but that is not a relay issue in my opinion(i know only basic electrics so take this with a grain of salt) what he probably did is that he spliced a triger wire from the ecu to ignition 12 volts, prob becouse of ecu issue. What u can do is try and find where he spliced in(def a dashboard out job) and add a basic switch so u can manualy control the priming of the fuelpump(race car style 😉), or rewire the trigger wire back to the ecu and chase the accual issue. As for the manuals have u checked malualslib or scribid?

Start the car (or turn on the ignition). Hold down the radio on/off button (volume control) for approximately 10 to 15 seconds. The screen will go completely blank, the Škoda logo will appear in the middle and the system will completely restart. After starting, check if the navigation has appeared.

I wrote to you

Showed this to a mechanic friend of mine and he diagnosed it as the OAP (overrunning alternator pulley) bought a replacement pulley for £60, a Sealyey pulley removal tool for £30 and had it off and replaced in about an hour. Would've probably been quicker if it hadn't been so hot! Also had to use a longer Torx bit than the one in the kit as the original (now discontinued) pulley was significantly longer than the replacement. Easy enough to do except maybe a bit of a hassle getting enough leverage with the alternator in situ but, frankly, couldn't be a**sed taking it off! Done about 300 miles since with absolutely no issues and engine sounds sweet. Thanks for the replies and advice 🙂

Yes, it works, but I want to leave it like new since it could affect other things in the long run.

Does the car run like that??

I mean that the pump doesn't stop after 2 or 3 seconds, it stays on all the time, and that's because the previous owner left it permanently on.

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