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oh sorry dumb question the check engine light. From memory it goes off after starting, & no diagnosed fault codes show

What is the MIL light?

I have now purchased a 5K0 part albeit second hand and it actually does output the desired PWM signal and has subsequently caused the fault to be cleared. So the issue was that Febi and the other seller were falsely advertising their part as compatible with 5K0 907659/1K0 907659. They are not. I am quite disappointed with Febi as I used to consider them a trustworth company. Thanks to @Breezy_Pete for persauding me to try the OEM part.

Just found the service record. Brake fluid was marked as done as “additional work carried out” at its service a year ago just before 15k. 👍🏻

Be sure the Brake Fluid was done, or shows as. & the Air Filter might never have been looked at. Having had 14 cars from Motability that used to get Annual Servicing they changed to counting on the Manufacturers Warranty and the vehicles being left on Variable / Flexible Servicing. My 2016 Seat Alhambra 2.0 TDI had Oil like Black clotted cream by the time it got an oil change at about 21,000 miles since the Dealer could not get it in. The Adblue is part of Servicing with a Motability car and no cost to the Customer but getting the Dealers Service desk to book a time is a joke.

Don’t do it!! How could you swap out a Yeti for an EV? Keep it till it falls apart. SWMBO has had her Octy VRs diesel since 2012 and it’s done over 140,000 miles with nothing major having been replaced. Kind of shows how reliable the older models are. I had 3 Yetis over the years nd wish I had never got rid of the last one.

Might be a failing dpf pressure sensor or the ash content is very high. Might be worth getting a quick vcds scan to see if there any stored and check ash level at same time. My octavia does the same but only getting short runs these days. When it happens I try and give it a decent long run. Alasdair

Contemplating selling this, it’s an absolute joy to drive, does have a couple of cosmetic things I’d planned to do, but think if I do sell it I’d let the potential new owner decide to do that, better to see it in its original state 😬

It’s an ex-mobility on 20k miles so fully serviced. In fact it was serviced twice in the two months before I got it as the dealer wanted to make sure they weren’t relying on someone else’s previous service. I was given a printout of the previous services when I got it, but they seemed a brief overview, I shall request a detailed report of what was done. But clearly lots to think about.

AFAIK, yes damaged PCV can cause engine to run badly, you didn't mention in your first post - but was the MIL fault light showing originally?

A 2023 Kodiaq. What has been done up to now. Did it get Brake Fluid changed at 2025 or 26? Was the Pollen filter done 2025 and due again 2027? If Haldex was it serviced this year. If a TSI the spark plugs are due next year maybe. So what the 2 year Service Plan gives matters. Has the Air Filter even been looked at or will they say replace at 6 years / 60,000 miles so not in the Service plan. Warranty requires 'Servicing to manufacturers Guidelines, Recommendations or Advice, not even Schedule'. Yet many Full Main Dealer Service History Approved Used Cars were not Serviced to Manufacturers Guidelines. Good VW Independent Specialists might well service correctly and as per vehicles useage and location. Service Brakes etc.

Makes sense, thanks. I’ve still to decide if after my 1 year used car warranty I take out the additional 2 year service plan/warranty, when I believe they’d set it to fixed anyway. Sounds expensive but takes any worry away. In the past I’ve always serviced at a local mechanic as soon as the initial warranty runs out but I worry these newer cars are less easily fixed outside the dealer network with all the fancy features.

So after removing the PCV Assembly out yep the diaphram is split in 2 or 3 places. have ordered the replacement so hopefully will receive it over teh weekend & this solves the issue perhaps

How often is the car doing only short trips / cold starts, & how far, or doing longer journeys & how far are those trips? ,

Fixed Servicing or Fixed Oil & Filter Servicing / Oil Changes if you do less than 10,000 miles a year seems 'Simply Clever'. Maybe not for those doing 18,000 miles or more annually. But then that would still mean the oil & filter being changed sooner than every 12 months. There is more to Car Servicing and Maintenance though. So do you want the car going 2 years between visual inspections / checks? Some like the Pollen Filter might be @ 2 years, Brake Fluid replacement now as well not @ 3 years then each 2. But the Haldex is @ 3 Years / 30,000 miles. So Servicing each 2 years does not work out suiting that.

Just another of Volkswagen Groups 'Lost in translation'. TDI,s oil requirement / specification is the same regardless of getting a Fixed or Variable oil & filter service regime. 'Long Life Oil'. VW504 00 / 507 00, then later for some VW508 00 / 509 00.

Ok where can I find? eBay?

available but as I know I can't post any links in here ;)

Okay thanks for that. When my superb was scrapped after write-off the salvage advert described the engine as “noisy” and “rattly”. It only had 138k (I had it from new) so maybe a whole life of variable servicing took its toll.

2016, 150 bhp diesel. Re-gening on avarage, every two days now. Had the soot content checked....20%. Never had any warning lights on in 3.5 years, and when I know its doing the business, I tend to drive in the appropriate gear to get the revs up to 2500-3000 rpm for 20 mins to clear it, which it does, and then runs fine for a couple of days before a repeat performance. Doing my head in, with the usual strange looks as the fans kick in for 10 mins when I finally stop if it hasn't already cleared. Is this normal?

I think that generally the consensus is to run with fixed servicing periods, yes you'll probably get more miles/£ (of your service costs) by running with flexible - but other wear and tear items might need extra cash in an unpredictable way. Flexible servicing usually only works for new cars that get high usage - then moved on after a couple of years.

Hi guys, I’m after some help & advice. I’m looking at buying a none running 1.9 diesel. The car was previously running but ran out of diesel one day but ever since has been unable to start. The guy has taken it to a local mechanic who has diagnosed a faulty injector fuel pump. So the guy has it up for sale. My question is what’s the best way to approach this, should I replace with a secondhand unit or recondition the current unit and what would the cost be? What guides are there out there to fault diagnose the issue? Any advice would be appreciated Rob

Nice , when will it be available to purchase?

Good. Always best to mention such highly relevant details.

yes exactly,it will help