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Getting the electricity that can be generated actual linked to the grid makes things much more sense than these wind farms sitting there doing nothing for the UK customers. There are so many Wind Farms build and generating nothing but paid to do that.

These are still available if anyone is interested. I’ve added some more closeups of all the alloy wheels

Lets see who actually does lower their prices compared to planning to lower prices because 2 major wars have not ended and others are ongoing.

AI is now saying it sounds like an ECU cut because it senses something is amiss.

Very helpful post thank you. I had the same issue and also took the trim off before reading this. Break in wire was in upper bundle on left hand side. IF you do need to remove the trim for any reason. This video was the most helpful https://youtu.be/LnJ1E8b1D_0?is=AmiL3EZzN8kOF3l8

Tis weird for us Octopus customers as they supposedly use 100 % renewable but it is still linked to LN gas prices. Big problem is users not moving to Time of Use tariffs. Electricity prices look like being zero ir negative for two substantial period this weekend ad it has been many times earlier in September. This has also related to plunge pricing at public chargers. Shame the MFG 59p per KWh ends next week, was hoping it will continue. Gather Ionity is lowering it's prices, TESLA and Westmorland remain good locally in W Midlands.

Link to download MEN2_EU_SKGPx_P0080L_8755 sent in PM

Welcome. Maybe some help in the threads already on Briskoda.

Diesel is damn dear. Over the £9 a gallon here now. If petrol is to get to £9 a gallon & you get 50 mpg, then that is pretty much the same as getting 3.6 miles a kWh and paying 65 pence a kWh public charging. (13.9 kWh @ 65 pence £9.02.) The social divide. Home charging vs Public charging, & then all liquid fuel is from Public Filling stations. Lets see how the Electricity prices go since tied to the price of gas.

So you'd expect these symptoms with timing out?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nkw=TK164AF+timing+chain+kit&_sacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_odkw=ULPTK164AF+timing+chain+kit+&_osacat=0

Thank you for answer. I'm afraid someone more experienced than me should do this.

Seems likely, given recent work, yes. Please check for typos in the timing kit number you wrote, google struggling...

That's AI for you re VVT. So timing out is your guess? If so, it's an interference engine so might suffer damage. Seems to run OK at higher revs, maybe a bit down on power. 2014 Devizes

It the price was right ie continues to rise for EVs, I would sell my Scenic as I want to order the new Scenic which has just gone on sale in France and should come on sale in the UK in a few weeks. I could make do with the 5 for a few months. Markets always churning and people will sell for a good price and make do. Hell, I would even get myself a Sandero, or Zoe, as a backup if there was a silly price for the Scenic. New Scenic sounds so good as has substantially bigger battery, LFP abd much cheaper and 50% faster charging ie 185 KWs as well as the more range and ability to charge to 100% regularly without harm. Scenic had major service last week, £160, 5 goes in for first service in a few weeks, £9 a month service contract for 3 years. Compare that to someone i knows near £700 majot service for a German car major service. Will keep in touch with my car dealer. Similar to when market went nuts due to covid distortion. Not fuel related but supply and demand I saw the value of my caravan double when travel became very restricted. With such turmiil comes opportunity !

I have set of 18" wheels for the winter. When they get swapped next month, I'll have the chance to get at the barrels and backs of the Veritates properly. So, fallout decontamination, tar spot removal, and thorough clean. They're already pencilled in with my local bodywork specialist to get ceramic coated after that, which should hopefully make them easier to keep clean going forwards.

CBZB doesn't have variable valve timing, if that's what you mean by VVT. Garage need to check timing correlation with correct locking tools. You probably can see fault codes in engine ECU if cam timing is far enough wrong relative to crank. Whereabouts are you? What year is the car?

It could do, might do, perhaps will do. But everyone does not all of a sudden have money to sell a vehicle & it needs people looking to buy what they are selling, and people do not all of a sudden have Home or Work place charging to make Buying / Leasing an EV the good choice financially.

Hi everyone - it's my first time posting here. I need help figuring out how to fix an ad blue leak on my Superb MK3 2.0 TDI 2015 130,000 miles. Its coming from the engine bay end of the piping, i think from the plastic right angled housing. I'm a complete newbie when it comes to fixing things but this seemed like an "easy" job, haha never, I use AI to help my source parts for a fix but it has failed me and i need some advice for a proper fix without having to go to a garage. Progress so far: I've removed the crystalysation by pouring hot water over it all, then went for a drive to burn off the water (a small amount of crystalysation came back so i poured some more water, at least it confirmed where the leak is coming from) I have been looking at some facebook posts and youtube videos of what other people have done but they're not detailed enough to give me confidence to start the repair myself. They provide part numbers such as SMC KQ2L06-99 & SMC KQ2H04-H06 but then AI is contradicting saying the injector nozzle is 6.3mm OD but the parts are 6mm OD, so they're not compatible. I also looked at a video saying all they needed to do was glue the ad blue tube back into the plastic housing, but mine is firmly stuck in there, so my issue must be the O-ring in the right angled bit. AI suggested I use a "popular" method to repair and buy SMC KQ2L0600A and a 6mm OD Nylon Pneumatic Air Hose Tube. however when it arrived I thought well how am I going to connect this all together, the Ad Blue pipe is easy enough, just use a wire cutter to seperate the pipe from the old right angle and plug into one side of the SMC part. What about the injector nozzle though? the 6mm OD nylon tube is too small, AI suggested is put it in boiling water to stretch it over the nozzle but i just cant see it working, i tried with a small bit of nylon but it doesn't really stretch enough. This is where I become frustrated with AI and now i'm thinking I could buy Nylon tube with an inner Diameter of 6mm but then the OD wouldnt fit into the 6mm female port on the SCM part. I really need some advice for parts and a rough guide on what to do with them.

CBZB

You do not mention what engine the car has. Did you ever use that fuel that you asked about in other threads, from the petrol / diesel misfueling.?

Total bill was £730.

Coukd mean an absolute clear down of all electric car and van stocks both new and second, even the models not normally selling well. Would / will Trump bring in the export van on diesel fuel like Russia has ? Netherlands still producing significant diesel fuel amounts and many EU countries have other 100 days of supply where UK reported only has about a month's stock if it stops getting diesel to import and its insufficient home refining drops further ! Mail OnlineDiesel price 'could near £3 a litre if Trump brings in US...Drivers across Britain already now pay an average of 197.75p for a litre of diesel - just over a penny away from the 199.09p record set in June 2022, according to the RAC.

Hi Under firm acceleration from lowish revs (1500 – 2500 ish) the car stumbles momentarily a few times. A bit like a 2 stroke "nipping up". It's more than a simple misfire as the car jolts each time. It did this on the drive home from the garage on a Hill and continues to do it. No engine light. Garage has suggested running their diagnostics but of course it won't be under load. Will this even show up on diags. AI seems to think its something wrong during fitting of the VVT or oil tube . Part fitted was ULPTK164AF priced at £164 on ebay which the garage charged at £268. This is a full kit with sprockets and oil pump chain. Your advice please.

Hi I have a 2010 Skoda estate 2.0 auto. It developed a fault a year ago where the battery was draining overnight and after visits to 2 separate garages (costing £900), it was diagnosed as having a faulty drivers seat module/actuator. I finally found one and it was installed yesterday. Unfortunately, the power drain started straight away so its obvious the module was not at fault. When the seat power wasn't connected, there was no power drain. The garage, who are vw/audi/skoda speacialists say that it may require a further 8 hours of investigation costing another £640. What could be causing the power drain? I am close to just selling the car for next to nothing as it is becoming a drain on my finances (excuse the pun) Thanks for any advice