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And 6C is coded to Octavia MK4 NX : 03032200A53000

I think you’ve answered your own question. You don’t need to improve the handling, you need to repair a component to restore handling. It’s likely a worn bushing - could be ARB, LCA, trailing arm, drop link, subframe, shocks, whatever. A common modification for these cars is to replace the stock RARB something 24mm or thicker - be it from a GTI CS or an aftermarket place like Hardrace, H&R, 034, IE, SuperPro, or Whiteline. It makes a big difference, but beware of going too stiff without changing other components to suit.

Hi, I have just unplugged to check if my Skoda Fabia 2018 1.0 TSI expansion tanks contain silica so as to replace it with silica free and completely change the anticoolant from G13 to G12evo. The OEM number is 6Q0121407B. Attached are the photos. I have asked three AI engines but all say is silica free. I just wanted a second opinion so as to proceed with only anti-coolant change to G12evo. PS. the level of coolant is low because I sucked out a bit in order to be easier to unplug to check the OEM.

Bearing out (prepare new axle bolt and protective cap, if old bearing will be re-used). 4 axle flange bolts out (prepare new bolts). Just recognized big crack in my '2016 Octy rear/right guard- so, it's upcoming job for next year. Maybe it's wise to prepare new bearing too. Don't know if they have tendency to bake on axle.

Surely just "knowing" the car and knowing the correct hose colour will work for you. Or stick a "PETROL ONLY" sticker on the outside of the fuel cover - or even the inside of that cover.

One thing that I will add, if you are keeping this car for "a while", if it still has G13 coolant in it, it should get replaced with G12 EVO as it was only G13 that needed the Silicate pouches to add Silicate back into the coolant as it was being depleted in use, especially with certain engines/temperatures. G12 EVO does not need this which is why "Mit Silikat" has disappeared from newer VAG car reservoirs. Some people will say that it's easy to work out which coolant is in the system by checking its colour - I can't say that I'm 100% certain that I can/could, I've replaced the G13 with G12 EVO in both our cars - more due to the car's/coolant's age than anything else.

Thanks. Doesn't seem to list Skoda though.

Right time is maybe before or during winter not after it, unless you need it through the winter.

Hi thanks again for all your help. I have a 23 plate mk4 octavia and pro obd11. Is below the only coding required? 19 Gateway Configuration: Byte 15 : Change 02 to 12 Byte 16 : Change 01 to 51 Byte 18 : Change 10 to 20 Byte 20 : Change 00 to 02 5F — Adaptation Settings: function_configuration_unit → Select RVC_video_input Change FBAS to Ethernet Car_Funktion_List_BAP_Gen2_VPS_0x0B ------ Switch to activated Car_Funktion_List_BAP_Gen2_VPS_0x0B_msg_bus ------ Choose "terminal 15"

Yes,I think it could be a 'regretted selling' move for us. Might wait until the mileage is higher (it's 74k) or if the DPF/EGR show signs of playing up. The only car that might appeal is a used Audi Q4 e-tron (4x4 model), but they're still too much for us.

They look like these for the DSG Service Recall, or any recall. Dealer Stamp and date. If you want to know if the Defeat Device Voluntary Recall action was done try the Skoda Recall site and see if still outstanding, or it might show on the MOT site for Recall actions. http://skoda.co.uk/owners/recall-campaigns

@pikpilot When did the upgrade happen? What does the sticker look like?

According to AI, some petrol cars left the factory with the wrong ie Diesel filler neck. This was proven when I put diesel in my 2014 Fabia. It drove normally for 5 miles then stuttered to a stop, restarted and pinked another mile then engine light came on, stopped and wouldn't restart. Is there an aftermarket restrictor or DIY work-around so I don't have to buy and fit a complete filler neck?

According to AI, some petrol cars left the factory with the wrong ie Diesel filler neck. This was proven when I put diesel in my 2014 Fabia. It drove normally for 5 miles then stuttered to a stop, restarted and pinked another mile then engine light came on, stopped and wouldn't restart. Is there an aftermarket restrictor or DIY work around so I don't have to buy and fit a complete filler neck?

According to AI, some petrol cars left the factory with the wrong ie Diesel filler neck. This was proven when I put diesel in my 2014 Fabia. It drove normally foe 5 miles then stuttered to a stop, restarted and pinked another mile then engine light came on, stopped and wouldn't restart.

Unfortunately I cannot see the images that you uploaded, however my experience is that the bags are pretty robust, I have removed a few from expansion tanks and never had one split (but I am aware that they can degrade over time). There is often some small amounts of residue in the expansion tank and if you have not had any issues to date and have replaced the expansion tank I would not expect you to suddenly have issues.

So I'm waiting for my elroq 85, I currently drive a 58kw id3, this has a simular range to the elroq 60, I have found the worst battery killers are HEATING (by a long way) if driving long distance in winter and can stand it just turn on your steering wheel and seat heating with a window slightly open to prevent windows steaming up. And turn off your heating SPEED drop your speed on motorways to 60 if poss makes a huge difference. Doing this allows me to get over 220 plus in winter and another 20-30 when car was new AIR CON has a much smaller effect on range in summer I am easily hitting 4-5kw in summer and 4 in winter doing this. I always charge to 100% for long journeys and main battery is fine I've lost around 20 to 30 miles from new where I was exceeding stated max range. This doesn't mean sitting in slow lane at 50mph but full heating at 70 kills range

Last night I replaced the coolant tank for one without the "mit silikat" statement. I couldn't actually see a silicone bag in the old tank but I have heard that some are double walled and you can't easily see. So for some cheap piece of mind I decided to replaced it. After installing the new tank and pouring in the contents of the old tank, I noticed some residue left over in the jug I used that looks very silicone like. I'm unsure of how to react to this, the car is now on 98k miles and the previous owner had owned from new looking after the car extremely well. Could I be safe in assuming he had removed the bag himself? Or do you think this has happened as a result of the bag exploding? The coolant is a nice clean bright pink colour and the old tank showed very little fouling which I suppose is reassuring. I do have a minor coolant leak, not sure from where but the water pump has not been replaced yet, which is the usual suspect. I am taking the car on a long 1000+ mile trip this weekend and need to avoid any car troubles. Is this amount of residue worth worrying about? is there anything I can check? Just looking for any sort of advice right now. Thanks in advance, Matt

The German Skoda forum also has a topic on this issue. Some of them have found seals around the radiator to be misaligned, however, not all report that it fixed the issue. https://www.skodacommunity.de/threads/octavia-neuwagen-2024-droehnen.151232/

Pins 3 and 4 of black 6-pin connector at A-pillars is where I'm seeing A146, A147 in circuit diagrams. Other thing you may have to add is power wiring for windows, pins 1 and 2 of the black 4-way connectors at A-pillars, from fuses and earth points. Can't you just chop it in for a Fabia that already has all this? They're not exactly scarce.

http://lllparts.co.uk

I know there won't be any CAN wiring in your door loom, but it may get as far as the car half of the A-pillar connections, if you're lucky. That's what I'm suggesting you look for. If it's there, there will be pins in the appropriate spots of the connector, if not there won't be. All the CAN wiring in the cabin loom will be 'bound into' the loom in the car body, I expect, but there will be splice points, (the A146, A147) where all the 'Convenience CAN' pairs split off to their respective control units (such as A/C). This is likely to be near to the onboard supply control unit (J519) which also houses the CAN gateway, headquarters of the CAN system. That unit is above accelerator pedal on RHD cars. You will have to run twisted pairs of wires from these points to each car-side A-pillar connector, and fit the appropriate pins, if they aren't already present. Will be a pain, but those whole connector multi-blocks will come out of the A-pillars outward for access. Door removal is dead easy and the job will be near-impossible without this, I think.

There's a switch on ours down by the gear lever, which switches it off. Have you inadvertently pressed it?

Thanks for replying. I don't know either of these companies. COuld you supply links please?

Using the search function built into these forums, I was easily able to find this post...