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I received a single reply (shown below) to my enquiry on the Skoda Fabia Owners Club Facebook group. This part was installed based on the PR number and region. I own a 2023 model with 1.0 , 70 kW engine. It’s in a cold climate, and the car is equipped with this. If one has access to the EKTA parts catalogue (as Breezy Pete does) and knows the car's VIN, it should be possible to check whether or not a particular Fabia Mk4 has the 'radiator louvre' unit. Otherwise, as the stated purpose of the unit's shutters (when closed) is to improve the Mk4's aerodynamics by preventing air from entering the wide grille in the lower part of the front bumper shining a torch through that grille when the car's motor is cold should confirm the presence or not of a shutter=unit. If the lower part of the radiator is clearly visible (as it is on my car) it definitely does NOT have the shutter-unit, but if the lower part of the radiator is not visible because there's a set of black plastic horizontal slats in the way, then it does.

i have litle more HP, gearbox is MQ281, nor 200. clutch depends on driving style. i dont drive it like a sports car, because Karoq it is not. i just simply have more power - torque when i need.. and sometimes i floor it on highway for few minutes, notnihg happened in a 1.5 year, only increased fuel and oil consumption.

Hi OccyVRS, Thanks for that it's great to hear from someone who has used the Powerflex adaprers before I commit to purchase. Is their any reason that you remove them each time? Worry they might fall out?

I have a 2019 65BHP MPI (normally aspirated) petrol Polo and a 2026 95BHP TSI, both with 5 speed manual gear boxes, neither have any problem on clutch release, the 2019 idles at ~ 760RPM but as soon as you press the clutch the revs increase to ~1100 and you can pull away without pressing the accelerator but it doesn't cause any problems if you do. The 2026 idles at ~ 1000RPM with no increase when you press the clutch but again no problem in pulling away without pressing the accelerator or if it is pressed, I had it back in the dealers as I thought the idling speed was and is unecessarily high but was told (presumably after check out) that this is normal operation?

Been quoted 20bhp extra and 50nm torque So would be 170bhp and 300nm Think that would be ok? I might not bother touching the exhaust now Just might change the turbo elbow and intake pipe and panel filter

Was debating both pieces, saves then splitting my factory grille. Am worried about the radar system Last thing I want is to have to calibrate

Hi all, I'm in a similar boat (literally 🤣) and have never been happy with how either of my Superb's have been on DCC. If there is anyone within a couple of hours of Hampshire/Surrey I'd be more than happy to pay for the time etc. Any help welcome. Thanks

I’m just mentioning it because Skoda officially requires it.

I changed the cover on my radar and have had the front bumper off a number of times without needing calibration. So long as you don’t touch the radar itself it’s no issue

Please note that Skoda requires a dynamic calibration of the ACC/Front Assist system, if present.

@JR RS also has a brilliant guide to removing the front bumper! Used it many times.

I personally use carscanner app and the recommended icarpro dongle from Amazon. £35 plus £8 for the pro app. Does nearly everything I need with no subscription

Find a good local Motor Engineer AKA a mechanic. Someone with all the gear and more than ideas. Someone established and trusted in your area is my suggestion.

U don't need the bottom one if ur existing grille surround is black. Simply unclip it and reattach it to the honeycomb grille. As for the installation - yes, bumper off job. There r so so many clips and torx screws involved. Also, if u do get the honeycomb grille, gets some mesh to put behind it cause it exposes the radiator and stuff behind too much. Grille surround View from the inside of all the various clips (dashes) and screws (circles).

Cupra R ST >>

Be careful with the clutch with a remap - the MQ200 isn't the best. Completely different engine. I've yet to hear an EA211 with a modified exhaust that sounds any good, but I'm prepared to stand corrected someday.

Can you see it as an option? Be careful with the one-click apps - don't use them blindly unless you know exactly what adaptations are being made.

All the data required for the mod can normally be found here.

p.s. Somewhat unsurprisingly, this maps update has made no difference to the intermittent 'No GPS Reception'. So a new shark fin is required methinks.

Please remove your VIN @Lee01 @ColinD (or anyone else I can’t think of!)

@ords Thought you might want to know, and thought it worth posting in case someone else seeing this thread encounters the same problem. In summary, I originally did the portal update download, the unzip, copy & paste etc to the Skoda SD Card on an Apple computer. But received a "Please insert a data medium with valid data info" on-screen error message when inserting the SD card into correct slot in the head unit. However, since repeating the whole process on a Windows pc, inc' deleting the Russia & Ukraine map info' to avoid any repeat, no disc space errors. The car is now reading the SD card, and the maps are updated to the 2020/2021 version. Which is the most recent update available for the MIB1 set up. The following was pointed out above: Not 100% sure if the platform caused the issue of the system not reading the SD card/data, or if the process just needed to be started afresh. But, thankfully, it's now working. Thanks for your input everyone, this matter is now resolved.

https://www.tyres-pneus-online.co.uk/tyre-equivalence-advice.html https://www.willtheyfit.com/ A 225 on a 7.5J isn't stretched - the Gemini wheel is just a slightly unusual design with a very prominent outer lip. On an 8.5J I would be running 245. An 8.5J ET45 will have 18.7mm more poke and be 6.7m further inwards. I'd personally pair an 8J with a 235, but you'll be fine with an 8.5J providing it is ET45. Any less than that can cause scrubbing.

Bit late to this, sorry. I use the inserts on my Octavia. Rather than having them in permanently, I have sliced the flange off and am able to pop them in an out as required. The first time I used them, I pushed one into the hole and ended up having to drill and cut it out. The pinch welds are only designed to be used when on a proper lift, or in an emergency. Everything else should be done via the frame points, or the subframe. I have the cut out/slotted jack pad, which only ruins the underseal. The insert is the one you want, but make sure you don't get it stuck like me. They can go at the front, or the rear, and the rear has two positions for them.

There is a logic to the process to get the longest life from your tyres with a decent tread. FWD front tend to wear first and often at the outer edges first. Back ones wear very slowly and normally more even. RWD rear tyres wear first and the front wear at the outer edges first New tyres only have 8-9mm and you should really change at 3mm So on a FWD when they are due to change the front the back will probably be at 5mm so you put the back on the front and new on the back, within a few month you need new front again so you do it again and have bought your full set spread over a few months. RWD you need rears first so you probably just do that and when the front need changing later put the new on the back and the slightly used backs on the front. If rotated properly you will need four at a time (If i was someone who ran the tyres down to 1.6mm before changing i would put the new on the front)

Any chance of getting the firmware update sent over having problems with no sound via Bluetooth if I have the track listing showing many thanks