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Michelin Pilot Alpin 5 is a good choice. But best get on sooner in your chosen size rather than later, so getting them while prices are as they are. Very likely to be increasing. I had Alpin 6,s on my Corsa electric but wrecked sidewalls on 2 on potholes on the A93. I put on Riken Snow tyres. A brand Michelin own. This winter CrossClimate 3 on my MG and BFG KM3 AT,s on my pickup. I get Michelin discounts. Plenty winter or AS threads in thd tyre section.

https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/184963-rimfest Couple of hours reading right there if you look.

...or transmission position sensor?

Hi Rory, yeah, I sort of agree though I'm older generation and probably still stuck in the past! Something about knowing you've got fresh oil, my motorbike oil and filter gets changed every 3500 Km's, costs tuppence and makes me happy! Planning to change the car when it's around 3 years old but Don't really mind if it benefits the next owner, why not?

@Coral-C . Yes, the whole experience is no different than a UK supplier like Black Circles, but cheaper. Credit card, GBP, no delivery charges (unsure about Highlands but Scottish Borders is free delivery) and about a week lead time. The choice, as you would expect, is huge. Note that where the listing shows two identical tyres but one includes a DOT in the title, the rubber is for an older year of manufacture and therefore the discounted price. Some aren't bothered if the tyre is older but has been stored correctly if they are saving a few pennies. I buy the fresh rubber if possible because tyres are our only contact points with the road! A well worn cliche but so true. As for the slow loss of pressure, I had a similar experience with our SLC200 and Michelin Cross Climate 2. Drove me insane. The local Volvo dealer who used to do my tyre swaps couldn't identify it and so tried to re-seat it on the rim. Nope! The KwikFit garage, once they had picked themselves up off the floor at seeing a pampered SLC200 pull in (no joking, they said that they only ever see battered runabouts as a general rule), told me that the edges of the rims needed refinishing because this is where the air was escaping. Nope! In the end, a local tyre shop with an excellent reputation (Ostles in Galashiels) examined the wheel and..... who'd have thought it..... a defective valve. £10. Why oh why didn't the Volvo dealer or KwikFit start with that? Anyway, whichever tyre you choose I wish you well. I think we can safely say that neither you nor I will be choosing some brand from China or India, not yet anyway! Speaking of which, Pirelli now have a Chinese company as their major shareholder. Just saying 😉. Best wishes.

Hi Warrior, the cable in use is 3 cores of 6mm and 2 cores of 0.5mm for the signals.

Hi All For maddening prior reasons and the fact that I have amassed various sunk costs already (mentioned previously in other threads), I am currently exploring an engine (used/reconditioned) replacement for my lovely-but-costly 2015 L&K. Car is generally in good condition apart from the issues that have led to this point, but on a recent garage trip has reported below compression test threshold on one cylinder and at minimum on a second so the time has come to make a decision on next steps. Does anyone have experience with the engine replacement process generally? And in addition, any specific experience with independent specialists here in Ireland that can be trusted to do the job right? I am considering trying to get a full diagnostic appraisal done before committing to see if I can judge the cost-benefit of the replacement approach so advice on that also welcome. (Not sure if specific recommendations for service providers allowed, but if they are, recommendations for both diagnostics and replacement would be very welcome)

I know it's a bit of a postapalooza, sorry. My neighbour came round, muttered under his breath, whacked the nuts with a cold chisel and a 5lb hammer and it all came undone with a temu rattle gun. Now my axle is drooping in a sad way and my springs fell out. oops. I'm staring forlornly at my bank balance wondering how I'm going to get some new shocks and top mount doobies before next month. lol. Projects, what a waste of money. I'm so happy :P Actually whilst the axle is hanging, I can try and clean up some of the top and give it a squirt of hammerite. Sadly the rest of today is rain.

I did similar on a B5 Passat (2003). The VAG kit was readily available on eBay at the time. I also had a main dealer retrofit it to a B6 Passat. It was a company car, purchased at 12 months old. The first month that I had it, it spent 2 weeks at the dealer with DSG problems. They offered me a free service as compensation, but I asked for cruise control instead, as I wouldn’t have benefited from a free service 😀. When negotiating on my next company car, a B7 Passat, I got the dealer (a different one) to fit cruise control as part of the deal. None of the above were adaptive cruise.

For standard cruise control, you only need to replace left stalk with one with buttons and enable/code the functionality in VCDS. both can be done as a DIY job, I have done one on MK1 Octavia, since then only buttons have changed somewhat, job is very similar. The videos above are for adaptive cruise control which would be far more involved.

If it's not the wire of death, I think it must be the ignition switch.

Is this a Manual or DSG box? Is there any indication showing on instrument cluster when it won't crank?

That's how all normal brake fluid changes are done. Yes the fluid does mix a bit and that little bit of un-refreshed fluid doesn't matter. The only time you need to do an ABS bleed is when you have got air in the ABS. I did because I let my reservoir run dry doing a brake bleed and sucked air into the system. Only realising when air splattered out the bleed screw and not fluid, completely my fault, and also when you fit a new ABS unit because the replacement unit would have air in it when installed. I always use a pressure bleeder when doing my brakes.

Is it correct gauge (mm2) for the current used while charging? Length of connecting cable can become an issue if its cross-section is too small, problem becomes worse in longer cables through increased volt drop.

Not an extension cable. A commercial EV charging cable from my type 2 home charger. 12.5Metres long.

If you have a 280bhp you have 340mm vented front discs, 310mm rear vented discs. Every other model, be it petrol, diesel, FWD or AWD will have 312mm vented front discs, 300m sold rear discs. Most motor factors are hit and miss despite claiming to confirm the make/model/trim you have; so make sure you check the size is correct. BTW, if you're just going to for plain discs, I highly recommend the ATE Ceramic pads as they are very low dust. I've read they leave a film on the disc and the pad then grips that rather than friction on the surface of the disc. No idea if that's true but the results spoke for themselves with me.

A 2014 will have MIB1 systems, so: if you have Canton you'll need a new Canton amp if you want to use CarPlay or Android Auto you'll need a new USB In any case it won't be plug and play, coding will be required to match the new MIB2.5 to the car configuration.

Yes its that but I think there's a spot weld in the mix too. It may well be in response to the ARB bushes originally being a classic source of creaking in the pre-FL versions. I wonder if putting it all together stops any chance of moving causing noise. H&R just haven't caught up with the design change. I did note that some places like Hardrace or Whiteline include new clamps so I'll mull over the idea of buying replacement clamps and fitting it on an Alu subframe next year some time when finances have recovered a little...

Is this an extension cable you are using? If so, what gauge (mm2) are the cores?

Briskoda DQ 200 servicing. Or Briskoda DQ 200 oil changes. In any search engine. Ignore Fabia MK2 threads as obviously pre 2015 issues. Service campaigns.

VW have different advice on oil changes for lower annual mileage, short trip vehicles, differing useages even though Long Life oil.

I don't like leaving oil in cars longer than a year regardless of mileage. But VW Group say it's OK for up to 2yrs/30K miles and they should know. If the car senses the oil needs changing earlier, due to lots of cold starts, short journeys etc, then it'll ask for it. I guess the crucial thing is, how long will you keep the car? If you'll change it in a few years time then you're over-servicing is benefiting the next owner, not you.

Thanks for your thoughts, @Arianne I ran Goodyear All-Season Vectors all year round on my Mk3 Superb. They were ok and coped adequately with most conditions, albeit with a much lower powered car than I now have. However, two of the set developed a nasty habit of losing pressure and needed frequent top-ups. By the time I got rid of them, it was at least weekly. My garage checked them but could not find any damage or mis-fitting to explain the problem. So I've got a (probably irrational) bias against Goodyears. At the moment, all the UK dealers seem to be out-of-stock of all brands of winter tyres except Continental. Presumably, they will bring new stock in this month as drivers decide it's time to switch over. Like many, I use the summer time clock changes as my cue to swap tyres and consequently late October/early November is when dealers typically aim to have their new stock in. That gives me another few weeks to make my mind up. I don't need snow chains, so I will be on 18" winter rims to give a little bit more width in contact with the road. I saw that a few online dealers do have a good range of tyres available now. Digging further, quite a few seem to be trading names for Delticom, so I appreciate your observations on their service. I'll keep that in my back pocket if nothing turns up here in the meantime. I assume they take care of all the import and tax issues from the EU source, so there are no additional costs or hassle beyond the purchase price.

@BKRacing Just out of interest, did the seller declare to you that it was a Cat N or S insurance write-off?

This has taken a LONG time to get out, the top of the strut being nicely rusted. but another round of heat, penetrant, and violence got the nut suddenly moving. That gets us this rotten old bouncy thingy out As soon as I get some more money I'm going to get new ones that aren't so rusty. I THINK I'm going gas, not oil as this isn't primarily going to be a load carrying vehicle. The important question is: What's that rubber stuff up at the top called because although I can get shocks from loads of places I'm struggling to locate the top hat bush thingy and that should be refreshed too I feel. Actually bad form but probably this?: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/404677052614 Of course I can't get the other side out, but if time got this one moving I expect the same magic can happen on the other side.