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Wipers are working, the pump isn’t. When testing front and rear have power each side of the plug for the pump (1 side rear, other side front - when pull/push the stalk) I’m inclined to think the pump isn’t stuffed. Any opinions or thoughts ?

Go and try a 280 too, it does not punch like a diesel. It’s a different animal.

Hi all I'm considering ordering (via a lease/PCH agreement) a Kodiaq Sportline, to replace our 2nd car, an Audi A4 Avant that will be 3 years old in March 2027. I've seen some reasonable lease deals over 2 year term of around £1350 deposit and £443 per month for 10,000 miles a year via LeaseLoco for factory order cars for Jan/Feb 2027. 5 seater is all we need, and the primary need is to carry around 2 medium sized Labradors as well as accommodate their sizeable reinforced steel crate Preferred spec is a standard Sportline iV 204PS, either in Race Blue or Graphite Grey, and would add the Driving Assistance Plus package at £1025 for the 360 degree camera if it doesn't increase the lease payments too much. We already have a home charging point used already for my previous CUPRA Born and current ID7 Tourer company EV cars which can be used regularly by a PHEV, so I expect to see a sizeable reduction in fuel costs compared to the £150 to £200 for the petrol A4. Any real world feedback on the Kodiaq iV from anyone?

Weird. U sure it wasn't like that before the endlinks were fitted? I didn't have any change in suspension height when I fitted my Whiteline frontend links.

I think the punch of the diesel would be too much to miss. so will prob go for the higher output diesel........ Hmmm but the 280 sounds like fun too.....

Go and test drive a few also. The 220bhp maybe the one in L&K spec. The 280 models are hard to come by, plus fuel economy hurts. However on long runs because the price difference in petrol and diesel it’s actually remarkably close cost wise pence per mile in comparison. Thankfully I have both a mk2 diesel and Mk3.5 petrol

So I'm replying to this thread for the record, so that others may learn from my experiences (that's if people search efficiently!). I actually used this thread to help me. For context I changed my 1KD discs and pads over the past two weekends. They were original pads and discs for 65 plate and 83,000 miles. Based on my experiences from changing the front pair (3 or 4 years ago) I was ready for a fight. Unfortunately no photos because dirty hands and no time to waste! My research already highlighted that the facelift version (after 2017 ish) of 1KD had different "depth" of disc hub (see photos someone above posted). The 1KD pre-facelift you can remove without removing the caliper carrier. I used ATE catelogue online to narrow down discs and pads - yes I splurged out on ATE, overkill on rears but there was an offer on. I also purchased a "brake caliper repair kit TRW SP8980" (from autodoc) which came with slider pin grease sachet, piston seals, dust seal, caliper pin rubber boots. This was just in case that I found broken rubber bits. Turns out even after 11 years and 83K miles, they were all fine to reuse. But I replaced caliper pin boots because I couldn't be bothered to clean them out and it meant I could be rough with them. So this thread has already explained how to do it. My tips are: Go to town with wire brush as you are dissassembling. Rust will be everywhere and it is an excellent opportunity to inspect suspension and behind the hub. Using drill attachments makes the job much quicker but use eye protection as the wire bristles will fly off. I mostly brushed around bolts and nuts. Not aiming for a shine, just removing loose flakes and leaving the rust patina. Put more effort into the brake pad carrier guides and the wheel hub before mounting new disc on. One man brake bleed kit is about £8 from Halfords (the tube is most useful - you can use an empy milk bottle), especially when winding back the piston, no need to worry about resevoir overflowing. Also good opportunity to flush brake fluid. The caliper rewind tool made the job fairly straightforward (I used Hilka 12700140) I really can't imagine doing this with needle nose pliers. I needed spanner to start it, but afterwards you can use the tool like a fat screwdriver. The hardest bit was holding the caliper steady and making sure not to twist the rubber dust bellow and having it concertina folded correctly. I used copious amounts of brake cleaner to make it "slip" easier and to clean gunk away. Also, pay attention when it is pressed all the way in because there is no "stop" to the rewind. I was rewinding for at least 5 minutes before I realised I was at the end. The reason this took two weekends was because the old brake disc had seized strongly to the hub. I was mentally prepared for this after my experience with front pair but after 25 minutes of hammering / tapping I was scared of damaging the hub or fracturing the disc (undrivable!) so I gave in, put the new pads on so I could drive and ordered a brake disc puller for £55 from Amazon (I imagine cheaper ones are available) - I figured I would have to pay way more than that if I had to take it to a garage. Using this it takes about 5 minutes to remove disc with a satisfying "thunk". I used a bit of plywood to protect the hubcap and had to bend the metal dust shield to get the "claws" around the disc. I also recommend using some rust converter and/or protector spray after you have finished brushing and before assembly. Jenolite is popular and is available on amazon. This is an excellent time to adjust the handbrake slack, because you can see and remove the attachment to the caliper so you won't be fighting the tension (as much) as you adjust the nut. The bottom caliper slide pin screw is easy to torque (35 Nm) but the top one is harder to access unless you have a shorter torque tool or use extension to get through the suspension coil. Or you can gauge by feel after doing the first one. I used ceramic grease as anti-seize (I don't care if it's not the correct type of anti-seize, it'll be better than nothing) between the hub and the brake disc AND between the brake disc hub and the wheel. I think that's it for now, the brakes haven't bedded in but if I have a serious failure I'll be sure to report back!

Yes, I like that in the van too. I think the MK3 looks better too, but very few 4x4 3.5's about with all the goodies at a price I'm willing to pay. Looking around 19 0r 21 plate. Like the later matrix lights, but the shutter Xenon look interesting.

Need to watch out for the EGR on the diesel 3T without the emissions fix mine went about 85k and took the turbo with it. Expensive bill even at an independent.

I must admit I do like the radar cruise control. It’s a bit scary at times changes speed for no reason and slams on the brakes. The fact I can drive no feet per se, is really nice on the motorway.

The 3T is a keeper at that low mileage. You could quite easily add car play I’m sure. The occasional ULEZ charge hopefully won’t break the bank. The TSI I purchased about six months ago. Hardly done many miles, too early to say it’s a 23 plate at just under 50k. And had an approved warranty for 2 years.

Can someone advise or help? Suspension question - got my 034 Motorsport dynamic droplinks fitted by ,, mechanic,, who fitted them upside down...i know don't ask. Yesterday I've spent good three hours re-fitting them and adjusting them. Both sides equal. Car back on solid even ground to take pre-load off the sway bar. Took the car for test drive all goid, felt really tight, responsive steering so all good. Parked the car up and noticed driver's side is sitting lower than passenger side 🤔by maybe half inch. Anyway it was quite late so left it ready to start all over again but it seem to have settled. Its still lower but maybe half of what it was. Is it likely to settle further or am I better of adjusting myself?

I will know for next time. Well i won't use them at all next time

Yes absolutely agree with you. It has been dealt with by Revolut as i opened a dispute against them and revolut initiated chargeback. Autodoc has challenged it but revolut thrown it back their way. They welcome to have their parts back but on their expense. Not mine

@Evolution13 Yes, this is a completely different car

To see ones lit up look at Google Imaged. Key words Fabia MK3 low oil pressure red can. Or low oil level. Plenty weed posted showing on Fabia MK2 vRS threads.

Ill send you a pm with the link to the files.

Don't know if it's the same on the Mk4 but a rear wiper was available on the Mk3 hatch?

It probably only illuminates when the level is low (yellow) or the pressure is low (red). Find and unplug the oil pressure switch and go for a drive, you'll soon see a red light methinks. Usually the only sensor on the engine with just one wire going to it. If this is a 1.2 TSI, it's near the top of the engine, rear left, plug goes downward onto it.

My late-2023-built Skoda Fabia Mk4 SE L model (1.0 TSI motor, DSG transmission) apparently does NOT have an active cooling shutter system. The images below show the shutter arrangement (a set of horizontal ‘slats’ moved by a small electric motor) and I'd expect to see this when looking through the air-intake grille in the car’s front bumper. But there’s no sign of it - just a naked radiator. Looking into the engine compartment from the car's front, the only thing that would impact on the airflow is a group of (unpowered) top-hinged plastic flaps on the left of the radiator that air pressure would cause to swing upwards when the car was travelling at higher speeds - but that’s nothing new or revoluionary as my 2009 Skoda Roomster has something similar. It may be that all Fabia Mk4 cars had cooling shutters when the range was first marketed, but this feature was dropped at some later date. Or UK-marketed Mk4s never had them, or UK-marketed Mk4s with the 1.5litre motor have them, but 1.0litre cars do not. As the shutters's stated purpose was to improve aerodynamics and (slightly) reduce fuel consumption, perhaps it was soon decided that the cost and complication of fitting a shutter system could not be justified.

I randomly noticed that my oil light didn't seem to be on the dash when I started up. Couldn't remember where it was, or even it it should light up when you first switch on. Picture below from the short video I made when starting the car. Can someone advise - should there be an oil light at first, and can you post a picture of your mk2 (petrol) starting up? What could the problem be?

Good strategy with twice per year, close to mine because I usually drive 8000km less than 12 months so it is actually twice to change within 12 months! I do the traditional method and filter change always because mine is located in easy spot in both cars.

Work with tpms. Same Hardware in my old O2. Yeti: Wire from Button E226 Connector T6r/5 to ABS(J104) Connector T26a/7(Pin7) Connector T6r/4 = KL15 Connector T6r/6 = KL31 Connector T6r/3 = KL 58d

My O2 have Retrofit tpms and ESC I Hope at night i have time

@chills i didn’t have to anything more than tap the Users icon from the menu, it had guest highlighted and primary dimmed. I touched primary to change the logged on user.