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Hi, If you only need the arm (without cap on the motor axle, part #4), it should be 3V5955707 (part #2) based on ifinterface.com data.

I have the Patch The actual problem lies with the instrument cluster; there is a programming error in its EEPROM. Updating the 5F unit—the radio—was a customer-friendly workaround, but it does the job.

My Favorites: Banner Varta Exide

In that case, start by completely removing the door, which is a single 13mm nutlike thing at each hinge. Then release door checkstrap and electrical connector. Lift door off, preferably with an assistant (certainly when refitting). Then you have easy access to hinge parts on A-pillar. Fit new ones exactly over clean bit of paintwork that's currently hiding under the originals. Make sure you have the correct size bit for the screws that hold them on. Tx45?

@Breezy_Pete cheers but I prefer to replace the worn ones, should see the car out 🙁 Less than £15 each

Why not just adjust the door striker on the B pillar downwards a couple of mm?

My blue bear's battery is dead. I had to use a battery booster to restart. OEM battery is 4.5 years old, it's a Bosch EFB+ 70Ah 420A DIN / 700A SAE for my TDI200. Does anyone have recommendation for a nwe battery? Different spare parts websites propose the following list: Varta N70 (70AH 760A SAE) Bosch S4 E08 (70Ah 760A SAE) Fulmen FL700 (7Ah 720A SAE) Exide EL 700 (70Ah 760A SAE) Yuasa YBX7000 (75Ah 700A SAE) Other batteries don't fit in size (either too long or too high). I'd like to take the opportunity to increase the capacity (Ah value), but I have absolutely no idea if Yuasa is a reliable brand or not. If it's not, I would either go for Varta or Bosch. Thanks for your feedbacks or sharing your experience.

To get it lined up properly I tightened them a fair bit and used a trolley jack with a block of wood to carefully line up the doors by opening slightly and a gentle amount of pressure upwards till the gap was equal. Its definitly easier with someone to help hold doors when removing hinges. I did top one first then bottom one but found it tricky to support door by myself. Alasdair

Something like this attached to a coil spring? https://keysafe.co.uk/products/supra-portable-key-safe Thanks. AG Falco

Not on a skoda but replaced on an old SEAT. I marked the original position of hinges removed them and then put new ones in exactly the same place. Tightened them enough to hold door in place and had to make very slight adjustment by raising door at one end then tightened them fully. Years back got a hinge repair bushing kit for my old Volvo not sure if they do them for Skoda. Alasdair

Tried to say it was my fault, initially, but eventually said it was clearly his. New car found today..... 2024 Enyaq VRS.

Dont know what I would do without them. Reckon half my old cars held together with them. Alasdair

@Patrik737 link to donwload MST2_EU_SK_ZR_P0480T sent in PM

@Skodalover12 link to download MEN2_EU_SKGPx_P0080L_8755 sent in PM

I completely agree with @Arianne 's views on the Mercedes. I switched to my previous Superb from a C-class Merc for exactly those reasons. Yes, their engineering quality was slightly better. Yes, the drive was a little more refined. Yes, the finish in my 'Elegance' model was a bit more polished (although still only 'artificial' leather). But … the purchase price, running costs, and eye-watering servicing bills were in a different league altogether. As an example, I got the dealer to retrofit the in-built factory satnav with it's tiny screen (smaller than the air vents below it), and that set me back over £1,200 in 2011 prices. A Superb is more than good enough for me; it has all the comfort, capabilities, technology, and performance that I want. It meets the whole range of my motoring needs, including making me smile when I drive it. And the value-for-money is off-the-scale.

Could someone share lastest sw for fix AA issue: Thanks

Only one clip I could cable tie round. The other one is solid and I didn’t fancy fixing to the broken part of the pipe! It’s not going anywhere as the engine cover sits right on top of here so should be all good.

The hinges on the drivers door are starting to wear a bit, door drops about 2mm when opening, has anyone replaced them and how problematic was it ? Any assistance welcomed 5J0 833 412 B Lower 5J0 833 402 C Upper

Ah yes. Good call. Will do that now.

As some of you will have realised, I have been a little disappointed by my 'upgrade' from a Mk3 to Mk4 Superb. In many ways, the older car was just easier to live with. But this week was a revelation. Due to roadworks on the A1M with a 45-60 minute delay, the sat-nav automatically re-routed me to the B6278 across the County Durham moorland. Now, that's really not an obvious route, but it proved to be only a few minutes longer than the original A1M journey would have been without the delays. So, a bonus point to the car for intelligent dynamic re-routeing. And the alternative road across the moors? I can highly recommend it for an entertaining drive. Here's a typical section (courtesy of google): The Superb handled it - superbly! I drove briskly within the speed limits and was rewarded with a fast journey along a great road. For a big heavy car, the Superb took the corners smoothly and swiftly with no twitchy moments at all. When pressed into overtaking the only two other cars I saw along the whole route, it was a completely trouble-free experience. Let's award a handful of extra points to the car for an exhilarating and safe drive. I have always held up the Superb as a sublime long-distance motorway cruiser. Now I can add that it is also a fun cross-country sports car. It's only in dense traffic in town, and especially slow speed manoeuvring, that it's not quite perfect. That's a compromise that I am starting to come to terms with.

Put a couple of cable ties round the clip and hose. Should hold it in place forever. Alasdair

Cant remember if I had to remove my sons door card when I replaced his. Pretty sure I had to to get to the bolts holding mirror etc. From memory the triangle plastic interior bit clips into place. Alasdair

No probs. They are compatible to the MIB3 which is what you have yep. Earlier models had MIB2/2.5 which ran on different software.

Ooooh forgot you had oil filler. Washer fluid, coolant, then petrol cap I think is the last one. I also got magnetic plugs - 1 for sump, 1 for haldex and 2 for diff/front transfer box. They’ll go in as and when done though.

Thanks travs. I assume the files are compatible with my particular hardware? Or are they all the same?