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I managed to update my unit to 0253 using an SD card. What do I need to do in order to activate Smartlink? Many thanks for your help!

Something to do with it being a sealed system and due to heat it increases pressure when off. The N276 valve I think reduces it to normal for starting. If its sticking you should notice a pressure spike in live data. As said bit above my experience but it seems to make sense. Hope its not as they arent as far as I know replaceable so new HPFP Alasdair

Your hardware is H11 standard, mine sadly is H10. That must be the difference, mine was built in June 2025

First thing is get the wheels off the ground and check if it is the wheel bearings bearings.

Now I have a heat pump at home I'm seriously considering moving to Eon, this may clinch it.

Ah OK, thank you. I'll give that a try. So... do the same as I did before, but wait 5-6 minutes for the pressure to build up to 1200, start the engine, and see whether the pressure spikes or drops. When I first plugged the OBD in earlier today and turned the ignition on (just to position 2, not actually starting the engine), I noticed that the pressure was around the 1500 mark, then dropped to around 700 when I started the engine. I wasn't properly looking or checking at that point, though, so I'll try it again and see what happens with a proper test.

Think 700 and rising to 1200 is perfectly normal so injectors are sealed and pump is doing its job. I have just read it could be a pressure spike due to a sticking n276 valve when restarting car. According to google to check let it build up to 1200 and start car while reading fuel pressure data at same time. If it spikes really high 2000psi or above it may well be a sticking valve and dumping too much fuel into engine until the pressure levels out. Its a bit beyond my experience but worth a look. Alasdair

On one Skoda headunit I had it was a four digit code stuck to the back of the HU on an old style price label.

https://www.phonostar.de/download/vw/MQB3_JND_Europe_v1.31.66.zip

Back in July/August, I did some OBD tests to monitor coolant temperature too, and those came back fine. The coolant temperature readings matched what I was seeing on the dashboard gauge, and the rise in temperature was normal/linear and consistent with the driving type. Warmed up fine during slower town driving, then started to drop when driving at faster speeds and therefore more airflow. The over-cooling also seemed slightly stronger when the aircon was on - second fan causing even more airflow in the engine bay, perhaps?

I have a 1.4 yeti 4wd 2016, 130000 miles, it has a continuous rumble which increases with speed , sounds like a wheel bearing and it is also present while coasting. I do a bit of DIY but i wouldnt tackle complex stuff, Ive just jacked car up on each wheel and couldnt find any play or noise when turning by hand. If it not the wheel bearings where would the next area be to look please?

it was the only part that showed age. I expected the water pump to be shot cos I'd overheated and HG went. That was perfect. The belt looks brand new, no cracks at all. Bearings and rollers looked ok but I guess they're more difficult to tell. I'm going to get an INA kit

Might be worth checking actual coolant temp against what the coolant sensor is sending to ECU. Think VAG group use dual circuit sensor so one does dash and the other sends info to ECU. If its failing when hot then it could be sending wrong info even though the dash says 90 degrees. There not that expensive so might be worth changing to see if it makes any difference. Got to be easier than accessing the DV+ Alasdair

I've used these for radio codes a few times. They charge about £15-20, but are spot on to deal with https://www.onlineradiocodes.co.uk/ The rear wipers have a weird attachment, they seem to be expensive anywhere online, our local parts factor (Parkers - https://thepartspeople.co.uk/#Branches), had them on the shelf and were no more expensive than any other wiper blade.

Ones on my old Skoda octavia were pretty good they looked like a spline fitting but the one that snapped was on a SEAT which had more of a pattern that locked in place which as I found not nearly as strong. Alasdair

thats not good. Reckon there belts are good but there cheaping out on the other parts. Bit worrying as mine are gates as well. Alasdair

Sorry - I note that the advert I referred to in my last posting does NOT include the spare-wheel!!! The Skoda part number for the spare-wheel (including tyre) is 6V0601011M and should be available for around £215. (Delivery charges extra.)

It's 40 degrees Celsius in the sun here, and the problem suddenly arose. My Skoda has 74,000 kilometers on it. I don't know what to do. I could go to the mechanic and ask for a lube... but where exactly? Have you solved it by any chance? Thanks.

“Just a diesel engine after all. IMO.” I take it that your comment is ironic? Although you can never be too sure these days!

I just went for a little drive to get the car up to temperature, then restarted it after 30 seconds or so to check that it still made the chugging/stumbling sound. It did, so I restarted the car, monitoring the fuel rail pressure with the OBD gadget. It idled at around 700 psi, then after I switched the engine off, the pressure gradually began to climb to 1200 over the next 5 mins or so. Google Gemini tells me that is the sign of a healthy and sealed HPFP and PRV, and that it would've likely climbed a bit more if I had monitored it longer. Also says that a leaking injector would've also caused the pressure to drop, rather than climb... suggesting that they're likely fine too. Does that sound accurate? Given these results, Gemini suggests that the prime candidate for the chugging sound is the GFB DV+, sticking/binding when the engine is warm. I'll see if I can get it swapped for a 'Rev G' and check if there's any difference.

Thank you AnnoyingPentium

Thank you dieselV6

Thank you Alasdair

Eon Next EV tariffs Next Drive or Next Drive smart are showing Offpeak back to 7 hours midnight to 7am for those going on these tariffs. It had been 7 hours and then reduced to 6 hours.