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Thank You!

Exactly what I was looking for. Thanks mate, you're a lifesaver.

On my old 2007 Roomster bleeding from the ABS ports didn't help. Been there, tried that. You need to do the ABS Bleed Procedure with a suitable OBD Scan Tool. An OBD scan tool that does that ABS bleed function, as you know VCDS does too. I did my 2007 Roomster with VCDS. I had to have all 4 wheels off as the procedure on that asks for rear bleed screws to be open too. My newer 2016 Yeti only asks for the fronts. I had a pressure bleeder hooked up as I did the VCDS procedure. The procedure runs asks for bleed nipples to be opened, runs the ABS Pump, asks for 10 pedal presses and repeats that a few times. At each step it waits for you to click to confirm you've done your bit. Finally saying Done. There are some videos on YouTube if you look.

Work done. Oil service and DSG service. Tried to change the front ARB but no go. Skoda have changed the bush clamps to sealed units with rivet nut so the H&R bushes can’t be clamped in. The OE unit comes as one - bar and bushes in clamps. H&R haven’t caught up with the design change. Top mounts changed and now all quiet. 4wa done and all the errors have disappeared. Car runs nice and smooth. Just needs a clean now!

Standard wallbox chargers are 32 amp single phase as far as i know.

What is the max. Amps output of a type 2 charger - 13A?

What is your cable a 7, 11 or 22 KW Type 2.? I have used my 20 meter 22 kW cable to charge PHEV,s from wall boxes or 11 kW AC 3 phase chargers.

We haven't yet. That is worth a try. My dad also suggested bleeding it from the ABS pump ports as that is the highest point in the system physically so is where bubbles should gravitate to. I don't know if that makes much difference. I suppose maybe that with a pressure bleed might help. Does a VCDS bleed use pressure from the pedal or does it use the return pump to push it through? We thought of doing the harsh braking on gravel thing (we did a bit of that to check the ABS worked) but I don't think we tried it as we thought it would all settle by the time we got it back home from the allotment (about 5 minutes) and jacked up with the wheels off to bleed it. It did pass it's MOT today thankfully, so the pedal can't be as bad as I thought, and I have some more time to figure this out properly. I am starting to think from this thread that maybe air is the problem, even if it doesn't obviously pump up. Does the engine being on or off make a difference? Surely the extra bits only come in circuit when the ABS is triggered? The ABS pump is a second hand unit so it may or may not have had air sealed in it when we got it. Of course we might have put air in it by activating it without being bled properly beforehand, I don't know.

DOT manufacturing date is July 2026 for my order that has just been delivered. Week and year, shown to the right of the photo. Perfect. Pretty well fresh out of the box!

Michelin Own ATS Euromaster & BlackCircles & various Tyre Brands. Online Ordering can be cheaper than at a ATS Euromaste Center, not always though. Michelin Pilot Alpin 5 is a good choice. But best get on sooner in your chosen size rather than later, so getting them while prices are as they are. Very likely to be increasing. I had Alpin 6,s on my Corsa electric but wrecked sidewalls on 2 on potholes on the A93. I put on Riken Snow tyres. A brand Michelin own. This winter CrossClimate 3 on my MG EV and BF Goodrich KM3 AT,s on my pickup. I get Michelin discounts. There are good BF Goodrich Snow Tyres for cars..EG g-Force Winter 2,s. Plenty winter or AS threads in thd tyre section. (I had TIGAR Snow tyres on my Volvo S60, another brand Michelin Own). Maxxis AP2,s on my Fabia vRS & Maxxis AP3,s on my MINI Cooper S ev replacing the Vredestein Quatrac Pro + that were hopeless on the snow.

https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/184963-rimfest Couple of hours reading right there if you look.

...or transmission position sensor?

Hi Rory, yeah, I sort of agree though I'm older generation and probably still stuck in the past! Something about knowing you've got fresh oil, my motorbike oil and filter gets changed every 3500 Km's, costs tuppence and makes me happy! Planning to change the car when it's around 3 years old but Don't really mind if it benefits the next owner, why not?

@Coral-C . Yes, the whole experience is no different than a UK supplier like Black Circles, but cheaper. Credit card, GBP, no delivery charges (unsure about Highlands but Scottish Borders is free delivery) and about a week lead time. The choice, as you would expect, is huge. Note that where the listing shows two identical tyres but one includes a DOT in the title, the rubber is for an older year of manufacture and therefore the discounted price. Some aren't bothered if the tyre is older but has been stored correctly if they are saving a few pennies. I buy the fresh rubber if possible because tyres are our only contact points with the road! A well worn cliche but so true. As for the slow loss of pressure, I had a similar experience with our SLC200 and Michelin Cross Climate 2. Drove me insane. The local Volvo dealer who used to do my tyre swaps couldn't identify it and so tried to re-seat it on the rim. Nope! The KwikFit garage, once they had picked themselves up off the floor at seeing a pampered SLC200 pull in (no joking, they said that they only ever see battered runabouts as a general rule), told me that the edges of the rims needed refinishing because this is where the air was escaping. Nope! In the end, a local tyre shop with an excellent reputation (Ostles in Galashiels) examined the wheel and..... who'd have thought it..... a defective valve. £10. Why oh why didn't the Volvo dealer or KwikFit start with that? Anyway, whichever tyre you choose I wish you well. I think we can safely say that neither you nor I will be choosing some brand from China or India, not yet anyway! Speaking of which, Pirelli now have a Chinese company as their major shareholder. Just saying 😉. Best wishes.

Hi Warrior, the cable in use is 3 cores of 6mm and 2 cores of 0.5mm for the signals.

Hi All For maddening prior reasons and the fact that I have amassed various sunk costs already (mentioned previously in other threads), I am currently exploring an engine (used/reconditioned) replacement for my lovely-but-costly 2015 L&K. Car is generally in good condition apart from the issues that have led to this point, but on a recent garage trip has reported below compression test threshold on one cylinder and at minimum on a second so the time has come to make a decision on next steps. Does anyone have experience with the engine replacement process generally? And in addition, any specific experience with independent specialists here in Ireland that can be trusted to do the job right? I am considering trying to get a full diagnostic appraisal done before committing to see if I can judge the cost-benefit of the replacement approach so advice on that also welcome. (Not sure if specific recommendations for service providers allowed, but if they are, recommendations for both diagnostics and replacement would be very welcome)

I know it's a bit of a postapalooza, sorry. My neighbour came round, muttered under his breath, whacked the nuts with a cold chisel and a 5lb hammer and it all came undone with a temu rattle gun. Now my axle is drooping in a sad way and my springs fell out. oops. I'm staring forlornly at my bank balance wondering how I'm going to get some new shocks and top mount doobies before next month. lol. Projects, what a waste of money. I'm so happy :P Actually whilst the axle is hanging, I can try and clean up some of the top and give it a squirt of hammerite. Sadly the rest of today is rain.

I did similar on a B5 Passat (2003). The VAG kit was readily available on eBay at the time. I also had a main dealer retrofit it to a B6 Passat. It was a company car, purchased at 12 months old. The first month that I had it, it spent 2 weeks at the dealer with DSG problems. They offered me a free service as compensation, but I asked for cruise control instead, as I wouldn’t have benefited from a free service 😀. When negotiating on my next company car, a B7 Passat, I got the dealer (a different one) to fit cruise control as part of the deal. None of the above were adaptive cruise.

For standard cruise control, you only need to replace left stalk with one with buttons and enable/code the functionality in VCDS. both can be done as a DIY job, I have done one on MK1 Octavia, since then only buttons have changed somewhat, job is very similar. The videos above are for adaptive cruise control which would be far more involved.

If it's not the wire of death, I think it must be the ignition switch.

Is this a Manual or DSG box? Is there any indication showing on instrument cluster when it won't crank?

That's how all normal brake fluid changes are done. Yes the fluid does mix a bit and that little bit of un-refreshed fluid doesn't matter. The only time you need to do an ABS bleed is when you have got air in the ABS. I did because I let my reservoir run dry doing a brake bleed and sucked air into the system. Only realising when air splattered out the bleed screw and not fluid, completely my fault, and also when you fit a new ABS unit because the replacement unit would have air in it when installed. I always use a pressure bleeder when doing my brakes.

Is it correct gauge (mm2) for the current used while charging? Length of connecting cable can become an issue if its cross-section is too small, problem becomes worse in longer cables through increased volt drop.

Not an extension cable. A commercial EV charging cable from my type 2 home charger. 12.5Metres long.

If you have a 280bhp you have 340mm vented front discs, 310mm rear vented discs. Every other model, be it petrol, diesel, FWD or AWD will have 312mm vented front discs, 300m sold rear discs. Most motor factors are hit and miss despite claiming to confirm the make/model/trim you have; so make sure you check the size is correct. BTW, if you're just going to for plain discs, I highly recommend the ATE Ceramic pads as they are very low dust. I've read they leave a film on the disc and the pad then grips that rather than friction on the surface of the disc. No idea if that's true but the results spoke for themselves with me.