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Hello, the screen in my 2025 Kamiq is dead and a replacement is on backorder as a warranty claim, but the tyre pressure light has come on and I wondered if anyone knows how I can reset it?

Rich codes that only turn up every few months are usually something that sticks or leaks some of the time, rather than a sensor that's dead. Worth ruling out the cheap stuff before buying a MAF. 1. Oil level and dipstick. Check the oil isn't overfilled and doesn't smell of petrol, and that the dipstick is pushed fully home. Both are on the Ross-Tech list of causes for this code and take a minute to check. 2. N80 purge valve (the charcoal canister valve in the engine bay). If it sticks open it feeds fuel vapour into the intake when it shouldn't, and that comes and goes. Simple test: with the engine idling, pull the electrical plug off the N80 and feel the canister side hose. There should be no vacuum. If there is, the valve is leaking. You can also pinch or plug the hose and see whether the fuel trims come back towards zero. 3. Fuel pressure regulator. On the AUM it sits on the end of the fuel rail with a small vacuum hose. Pull that hose off with the engine running. If it's wet with fuel or smells of fuel, the diaphragm is split and it's pushing fuel straight into the intake. 4. Coolant temp sensor. If it reads colder than the engine really is, the ECU adds fuel. Compare the coolant temp in live data with what the dash gauge shows once it's warm. 5. Injectors. A leaking or dribbling injector can do it, especially on a car that's done a lot of miles. If you can, post the long term fuel trim at idle and at a steady 2,500 rpm, warm. If it's mostly rich at idle, the things that matter most at low airflow (purge, regulator, a leaky injector) are favourites. If it's rich across the range, that helps narrow it down too. Also save your pics as jpg, as .heic won't open for a lot of people on here.

I’ve had my 60 plate vrs for 11 years now. The engine replaced/ reconditioned at 26000. Miles. Excellent condition outside and in but everything is going wrong now. Recently replaced gearbox, door loop, but now supercharger is on its way out. It has 150k miles on the click and I need to commute to work 500 miles a week! Garage has had to take it apart to discover what the matter is. Supercharger is 1200 from vw plus labour. Is it worth paying nearly 2k to fix it? I have used my husband’s car atm for work but I don’t know what to do as I need to tell garage asap. I know I will hate this car for having to spend so much on it but how should I say farewell to it? Tia

Funny, I’ve had the same ones in my AliExpress cart since yesterday ^^

Spot the difference:

Just to come back on the SEAT/ Cupra side, they did eventually release a software update although it wasn't Q3 of last year as originally hoped. I think a main issue in the update was to solve an issue with 12V batteries draining when plugged in to some chargers and the scheduling was perhaps a bonus, although it was also in the original manual so presumably they'd always planned to do it. Also a hefty update requiring a multi-day visit to the dealer. But before it was available, Seat customer services didn't seem to know it was coming, or at least couldn't tell us if they did.

Hello guys, what’s happening for all of you with this problem. Mine has been back with the retailer for many weeks awaiting replies from Škoda Tech Support! Yes we should all approach the motor ombudsman as a collective and the motor trade press.

EFB batteries are better in warm climate, AGM batteries are better in cold climate. AGM can degrade under the hood and engine bay, where temperatures are high in summer. EFB can degrade in winter cold.

Process is similar and as simple for car scanner. I’m away at the minute but can provide instructions if required later in the week.

I didn’t even know this battery existed, nor what kind of battery it was. There were no symptoms or signs that anything was wrong, so I had no reason to investigate. The technicians replaced it during a scheduled service—presumably as a precautionary measure, given that the car is approaching its four-year mark. I can’t say how difficult or easy the replacement was, as I wasn’t present and was only informed about it afterward. I believe, however—though I’m not 100% certain—that they mentioned it’s located in the front overhead light console. Now, regarding the main issue let me clarify a few points about the problem and how I perceive it… The symptom occurs occasionally when the car starts moving from a standstill with low RPM and light throttle. Just as you’d expect the initial engagement to be complete—and as you have just released the clutch pedal—the car sometimes hesitates, which the passengers perceive as jerk. I’m not sure if this is due to the clutch itself, some poorly optimized engine mapping, or a combination of both. The truth is, this isn’t a major issue, nor is it something that can’t be overcome by slightly adjusting how you pull away. If, at the moment you assumed the car has started moving, you hold the clutch pedal for just a fraction of a second longer instead of releasing it completely, while simultaneously applying a tiny bit more throttle, the car will pull away just fine. The challenge is that over the years we’ve developed an instinctive, fixed sequence of movements. It can be difficult to adapt, especially for those who frequently drive different vehicles or who only get behind the wheel of the Fabia on rare occasions. As I mentioned earlier, replacing the clutch master cylinder helped a bit. It didn’t change the inherent behavior of the clutch or the engine, rather the slight earlier in engagement point along the pedal’s travel automatically altered the instinctive movement of the foot. Previously, the clutch engaged quite high making it feel "natural" to release the pedal entirely the moment the car began to move. Now, because there is still more pedal travel left when the car starts moving, you end up withdrawing your foot with less abruptness. In other words, the situation improves simply due to the bigger pedal travel... In fact, if you keep in mind that you should also apply a tiny bit more throttle at that specific moment, the problem is resolved completely and permanently. I think this issue has been blown out of proportion... Personally, while I had noticed it before, I didn't even consider it serious enough to address. I simply mentioned it as an observation to the technician during the service.

v1. I get an error on versions above 31.64 Software update stoppedPlease plug the data carrier back in. The system will probably reboot

Is this a RHD car? If so, do you currently have motor module part number 6Y2959802A, SK240D4DRS (both numbers matching totally) fitted on driver's door? These are extremely rare, so I'd imagine you have an incorrect part there. Do you still have the original one? If LHD it should be 6Y1959801A, SK240D4DLS on driver's door instead.

Pab567 Can please send me some info I’m looking to upgrade my head unit too. Thank you

Hi guys I’m all new here, Last week front break calipper seized on 2015 estate superb mk2 and in to Grage change break pads and discs find out driver side has bad as well so changed both calippers and pads and disc’s. How ever my check break light comes up on dash and dissepaer in seconds. My mechanic top me there is no harness(loom) there is this some thing I can buy and fit it by mechanic. Or do I need to go auto electrics ? In uk thank you .

@kbudaj - the main reason for the battery adaptation (registration) is so that ur telling the car a new battery has been installed. overtime, the car's charging behaviour changes to suit an aging/dying battery. when u replace it with a new one, the battery adaptation process resets the charging behaviour to a "new" (fresh) state. as explained well by @SparePartAlam - the car will operate & function like normal if no battery adaptation process is carried out after a battery change is done. rather the battery adaptation is for the longevity of the battery life, over time. i personally use OBDeleven. these were the instructions i made for battery adaptation:- @Bap33 - absolutely no issues whatsoever with going from EFB to AGM, or vice versa, provide u perform the battery adaptation procedure and chang the battery technology to either Fleece (AGM) or EFB. i ran EFB+ batteries for the first 7 yrs. the last 3 yrs i've been running AGM.

the DQ250 6-DSG transmission can handle a lot of torque. my 220ps Superb with the DQ250 previously ran a Stg 1 Hi-Torque tune, producing 532 Nm at the wheels torque. ran that for 4+ yrs. now its running a different tune and Stg 3, but producing 550 Nm at the wheels. been 10 yrs now - no issues. gear shifts r smooth in all directions. clean power delivery through the gears. they say the DQ250 can safely handle up to 600 Nm with no hardware changes, but it needs a TCU tune. above 600 Nm, u need to start changing hardware (clutches) too, in order to cope with the torque.

Oh, ok. Thanks, will do. With regard to the 'No GPS Reception'. From what I've read, it's likely that the shark fin needs replacing. But, I've also read that it could be a firmware issue. In which case, should I attempt to update firmware before purchasing new Shark fin? Would appreciate your thoughts.

Hi and welcome to the forum. I would start by checking the wires where they pass through from the drivers door into the body of the car. Both the wires themselves for fraying that’s causing a short circuiting and also the connector blocks for water ingress and corroded pins. Both are very common problems with older cars and cause all sorts of weird behaviours.

Can anyone help me? I have a Mk1 Octavia with a 1.8T AUM engine. I’ve been having a ‘P0172 System Too Rich Bank 1’ code pop up. i delete it and it only comes back months apart. thought nothing of it at first but popped up a few times recently. I’ve been down a rabbit hole on Google AI which has diagnosed my Air Mass sensor as needing replacement. It has come to this conclusion from me sharing the freeze frame data of the codes plus some live data that i got from the code reader at acceleration, 70mph and deceleration. I am aware to not fully trust what AI has told me so I thought i’d come on here to see if anyone has any ideas. Just gonna chuck in a few pics that show the data screen that has rpms, speed, long term fuel trim and MAF IMG_8168.heic IMG_8407.heic IMG_8404.heic IMG_8387.heic IMG_8397.heic

I had the misfortune of having to clean one of those, albeit a normal FIAT 500 last week. Absolute nightmare. They trap dirt and detritus everywhere. You flush and rinse and flush again and more crap keeps coming out from parts you cleaned five minutes ago. Never known a car to be so good at retaining crud.

I will give it a go. Thank you!

3m x 15mm / 22mm copper pipework and plastic waste pipes. That tablet stuck in the middle of the dashboard will prevent me feeding the pipes down the middle and resting them on a cloth on top of the dash. You made me think about that!

My previous Mk3 hatch had the fold-flat front passenger seat. Staff at my local builder's merchants were always astonished when the car easily swallowed 3m long planks of wood. I'm going to miss that now.

Don't worry @Arianne, kickdown does indeed override the limiter. It works intuitively when you naturally fully depress the loud pedal and it stays deactivated until the speed falls back below the set limit. Try it on a quiet road by setting the limiter artificially low and then flooring it. That will give you the confidence in the functionality for when you do need it. Alternatively, if you have time to think about it while preparing for an overtake, just flick off the limiter with the stalk and then re-engage it afterwards. That will let you accelerate past the limit point more gently if you need to.

Changed the oil and oil filter for the 6th time, since buying my Greenline Estate in March 2025. In that time I've taken it from 152,000 to 190,000 miles. This change was 2,000 miles earlier than my usual 8,000 mile interval. I wanted to get it done before the cold weather set in for the winter, as I hate doing car mechanicing when it's freezing.