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I didn't mention it before but yes I also initially brought another used sensor from eBay and that seemed to have a fault where it worked and then every few seconds it gave an error, sort of like it the internal uC was rebooting. The fact is that many people just list things as 'used' and don't actually know if the sensor works, at work we used to call this 'customer testing' which was not a good thing if you want to be seen as professional! Thank you for adding to the thread, hopefully this will make it easier for the next poor soul who has to go through this journey.

the port on the mirror housing had become dislodged and slipped inside. Car is booked into local dealer on friday to fix but probably won't use that port as i have a hard wiring kit for my dashcam (Viofo) (Dont know why this is underlined underlined is not elected.

This appears to be standard practice, I paid £10 for one day a while back at a Skoda dealer ,,a friend of mine paid £25 recently at a Nissan dealer. Check out the cover on your own insurance - I'm with LV and it was covered the last time on that, but you need to show proof of that to the garage supplying the courtesy car. Good luck !

Post a photo with the covers off please.

The guy I sold to has a longstanding relationship with a local independent. He's legit. I know many people would have rolled up in the car and let the dealer take the hit but I'd rather be honest in how I do things.

I would definitely want it again but Skoda really messed us with the settings on the Superb. Comfort - Massively too soft and crashes into bump stops if you are not careful. Normal - Still too soft, floaty and underdamped. Takes too long to settle with a secondary bounce. Sport. Now firm and very well damped but the soft springs allow for a fair amount of body movement in bends. There's also a fair amount of suspension noise which I wasn't expecting. Switch to a Passat of the same vintage and there's not the same suspension noise and Comfort and Normal are better controlled. So it seems a design choice by Skoda. I now have an Enyaq vRS with DCC and it's night and day different, so much so I thought it had to be from a different manufacturer. But checked and no still Monroe. The Mk3 Superb really needs that slider mod in the DCC. Somewhere between Normal and Sport would be the sweet spot for daily driving.

It would be interesting to see your battery resistance , total energy throughput, Batteriealterung, ladungsbezogen and Batteriealterung, leistungsbezogen numbers on OBD11 if you can.

this is one side of what snapped, classic fatigue fracture, dirty round the outside where the rust grew for ages and shiny in the middle where the fresh 'snap' happened. The other side that matches perfectly: Having popped it apart, it's not very nice to look at inside, eurgh: and the ebay reconditioning kit doesn't include the rubber/foam packer that sits around the swivelly nubbing you can see to the left of the shifter. inside the ball joint doesn't look too clever either really Thrift says recondition, structurally it's all there, it's rusty and can be rebuilt, but 'make it good for another ten years' says 'spend the money on a new one. A LOT of gear changes will take place during this things new life, so it might as well be 'nice' given it's one of the main driving interfaces. What would YOU do? Waste £50 or save it? It's a tank of petrol, that.

We run a 2024 Karoq and a 2022 Superb, both fitted with OEM VW EFD 720amp batteries - the Superb was duff from the off, Topdon showing 'replace' almost from new - after 2 AA recoveries and a battle with the dealer/Skoda (10 days in workshop) they replaced it with another of the same but the problems didn't go away, it seems to like SoC 55% after a long run and so needs Ctek charging if left standing unlocked for more than 8 days - the Topdon very occasionally shows 'good battery' but most of the time 'replace'. The Karoq has been a little more reliable but again, Topdon 'replace' is normal and SoC only ever goes above 70% if I do a Ctek charge. I bought a Bosch AGM and keep it topped up ready for the inevitable - I'm not going through the palaver with the dealer again. VW branded Varta 720amp DIN oem batteries are junk.......?

I picked up my Fabia Monte Carlo in September and it developed a very annoying squeak on the nearside A pillar. I took it back to Vertu Skoda Darlington and they packed the trim. Within a week, the noise was back, so the car went back again. This time on drop off, I was informed there would be a £20 insurance charge for the courtesy car. I strongly disagreed with this, refused to pay for it, I wasn't charged the first time, and I do not believe I should be out of pocket for having been supplied a faulty vehicle. I am already having to disrupt my days due to garage visits. The car is having to go back a 3rd time as the noise is still there. If I had paid each time, I would be £60 out of pocket. I have contacted skoda customer care and they informed me that it is nothing to do with them as Vertu are a franchise dealing Skoda products. I think this is a disgraceful approach to customer care from both Vertu and Skoda. It's putting me off using Vertu ever again and possibly not buying Skoda again as they don't seem bothered either. Be warned, look out for these stealth charges and don't be afraid to stand up to them. I will take this further if the situation persists. Be interested if anyone else has had similar experience.

My battery almost died at around 4 years old, set off a flood of warning lights, all of which I could clear using OBD11 barring one, the airbag light, which needed the module software updating to remedy that. Tried simply charging it using the CTEK first of all, and whilst on paper (so to speak) that brought it back up to voltage, it still seemed to under perform, start / stop never functioning, the odd random warning light etc So I tried the Recond mode and ever since it's worked almost flawlessly. Start / stop functions as it should and warning lights are a thing of the past (touch wood) Now I hook it up on a trickle if I'm ever plugging OBD11 in for any reason, other than that I intend to use the Recond mode once a year, as is suggested by CTEK. I still have the battery in question, this happened almost a year ago now

Sorry, it seems that this isn’t a sensor that I can read with carscanner.

I might get one for experimental purposes to see what happens but i suspect my battery is quite worn. According to OBD11 the starter has been activated 25,000 times and total energy throughput 14,000ah. What was happening with your battery and how old? Did it last much longer?

Don't bother. You can only use them on snow as they'll disintegrate quickly on tarmac. Get some all season tyres and use them all year round... It's what I've done in SW Sheffield on the edge of the peak District and they've served me well in snow.

Thanks very much guys - much appreciated 👍 Yes, I'm familiar with the CANBUS system requirements - the fitting of my current A4 included coding of the Audi system to disable the reversing sensors when my bike rack (or a trailer etc) was fitted, and it worked fine. I'm sure my towbar fitter can do that job just fine. However, I'd be concerned about the effect on my Approved Used warranty - if Skoda UK are insistant on the radiator grille/fan changes... As Rbz has usefully suggested, I will make fitting of a detachable towbar compliant with Skoda UK requirements, a condition of sale. I still can't believe that Skoda market an SUV that cannot, without expensive mods, tow anything!! 🤔 🤨

See this guide. It’s excellent. Only thing I found missing was where you have to rename one file in the root folder to get the autorun to activate. But the instructions for this are in the readme with the software. Heed the advice RE battery charger. Make sure battery is fully charged before starting and on a good quality charger throughout. I found out the hard way!

I haven't waited till Xmas. Elroq VRS ordered. Roll on April.

Consider the FitDVR power unit to supply your dashcam. It connects inside the mirror housing and provides the ability to have dashcam go off with ignition or stay powered from the car battery for 2,4,etc to 24hrs after ignition is switched off to give an full parking mode. The setting can be changed easily using a button on the unit.

Welcome to the forum. Fob uses a single 2025 or 2032, 3 Volt button cell. The 2032 has a larger mAHr capacity and is a little deeper in cross-section than the 2025. Older fobs used the 2025 - but it was often possible to squeeze a 2032 in.

Thanks for your reply. I will go ahead and buy it then.

Just to entertain you all , this issue with the MK2 Fabia HP1.9TDI is all down to a soggy starter motor ! Not used this car much this year but in the summer all was well , now I have the same issue again , whenever the car is left for a period of time say 10 days or more , in damp conditions , we tend to experience in Oct/Nov, the issue of slow turnover and or sparking sound coming from under the bonnet when turning the ignition to start the car returns . I guess i need to swap cars or move to a hotter country :)

Hello, Liqui Moly Ceratec is only a engine oil additive only, It does not go in the gearbox dsg oil at all and are two completely separate systems. I think they put that disclaimer to make sure its not to be used in the wrong place. To confirm can be used in cars with a DSG box but its not gearbox additive in any shape. So you add it to the oil you minus some engine oil 300ml and add a bottle of ceratac to prevent over filling, That how we have used it.

The CTEK worked wonders for me. The Recond mode gave my battery a completely new lease of life

Hello folks, I am planning to add ceratec engine additive with the engine oil during my next service. But, can I use the additive with Octavia 2.0 tdi mk3 which has a wet clutch? I was confused because Liqui moly website says that the additive is not suitable for wet clutch systems 1) Is the additive only not suitable with dsg gear oil and can be added to engine oil? 2) Is the additive not suitable even to engine oil with wet clutch dsg? 3) Does the engine oil come in contact with wet clutch or gear system? Please let me know if anyone has experience regarding this. Thanks!

Sorry to hear of your belated issue and I have just scan read the responses but not sure if you have tried to buy a secondhand car privately in the last ten years but there seems to be a lot of unscrupulous people around that offload cars/vans like yours with a serious engine issues. Even heard of a guy who bought a van that had been patched up structural members with cardboard and then painted! Selling to a dealer and being upfront is the honorable thing to do although the buy my car companies are criminal in what they offer punters so I would have offloaded to them if at all possible :)