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Thanks Ryan, I also have a 2015, 1.2Tsi (cambelt engine) that I'm putting up for sale in a couple of weeks (bought for my lad, but tbh, it's way too nice - all he's going to do is stick stinking fishing gear in it...), once the Tsi is gone, I'm going to put the HTP on the road. Once I can figure out how, I'll stick a couple of photos up. All the best. Rick

speaking of attachments, is there a way to rename the attachments so i can easily find/search them, rather than scrolling n scrolling until i find it? thank you

About three weeks ago, two major updates came through, and everything has been working perfectly since then.

Mine is close 10l/100km in mostly city driving but on long freeway trips it gets below 7 and on the best 110km/h runs it can get below 5. Yes, I have seen 4.9l/100km multiple times. That is 57 UK MPG. I use ACC all the time - it has a much lighter foot on the accelerator than me.

I have a steering wheel off my T6 DSG which has paddles, may be able to retrofit the switches to the blue cars wheel. Not looked into retrofit of travel assist. It does have multi function camera and blindspot assist with the same adaptive cruise to stop then go as the high mile one, so wonder if its coding only as already has the hardware, don't know, not researched it. And massage for driver I could do without. The low miles may have to give way to the toys.

Ah yes you did say that. How did the sump crack?!

Hi everyone, I’m hoping the Briskoda community might be able to help me track down an old car of mine that has a lot of sentimental value. I used to own a 2002 Skoda Octavia Laurin & Klement (L&K) with the registration PA02 DCF. According to the DVLA, it has been sitting on a SORN with an expired MOT since late 2013, which gives me hope that it is tucked away in a garage or barn somewhere rather than scrapped. I’d love to know if the current owner is a member on here, or if anyone recognizes the plate and knows what happened to it. I'm not looking to bother anyone, just genuinely curious to see if she survived—and if it happens to be sitting unloved as a project, I might even be interested in buying it back! Any information or leads at all would be massively appreciated. Thanks in advance for your help!

Its a private sale, not on autotrader

Have a link to the higher mileage one?

MIB3 is fine on the later firmwares which can be sorted on here. Colour is bright, and possibly not metallic either. Slightly too dark for Nogaro I think but close. Could always consider a wrap instead of paint correction? Go for a colour you like and will solve all problems. By the looks of the power that’s a DNUA engine - EA888.3 with the GPF so a 272 rather than 280. Looks clean on the inside and the mileage is very low. I wouldn’t write it off completely.

Few minor events logged but more importantly, the ecu logged mileage matches the dash mileage

Anyone?

Agreed, I do like the full LED lights, I can also update it as and when releases are available if needed with my diag unit. I get your point though.

Not keen on that colour personally and I don’t like the look of the facelift model as much. MIB3 as well which can be quite buggy

Depends where you are, as I’m based in the South East. Drop me a message!

Damn - that’s surprising, sorry. I know Awesome GTI and Powerflex themselves don’t have them, but you should be able to get them. Is there any word on how long?

https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202610167041901?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios-app This is the low mileage one. Anyone on here recognise it? A proper history background would be nice. But then it doesn’t have the other options, the paint needs a pro mop quoted starting from £700 depending on scratch depths and damage. Looks good in the photo, but up close so disappointing. And it’s a bit too bling, I’m more for an understated paint job. Electric blue, I thought it was Cobalt blue. Think Audi called this Nogaro blue on the RS4 B5 I had a midnight blue S4 as even then the nogaro was too bling.

Perhaps see if you can negotiate them fixing the advisories if you pay asking price. Make sure you show us some pics if you do buy one!

ADMIN NOTE. Briskoda will be in no way held reliable or responsible if members download and use third party software, apps or anything else related to the use of the above.

Glad you got it sorted and impressed on the effort of coming back after 4 years to post the solution!

Personally I’d go with higher mileage for the options.

Hi! 🚗 I'm looking for people with a VW / Audi / Škoda / SEAT / CUPRA to test my VAG Diagnostic app (Android). So far I've mostly tested it on a bench with a simulator, and now I need readings from real cars. The test version only reads data: it detects control units, part numbers and fault codes. It does not clear faults, code anything, or change any car settings. The test takes about 10–15 minutes. What you need: • an Android phone, • an ELM327 Bluetooth OBD adapter (e.g. Vlink); Wi-Fi adapters won't work, • a VW group car, ideally from around 2012 onward (Golf 7, Octavia III, A3 8V, Leon III and newer). Older cars are useful too. 📥 Download the app: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-jvtmcPDvu_mjCv1VXyD7VxkI3PqVS8l/view The current version is tester-2 from 4 November. The app is available in English, German and Polish, and it automatically switches to your phone's language. How to run the test: 1. The car is standing still, ignition on, and the adapter is in the OBD socket and paired with your phone. 2. In the app, tap the OBD connection card at the top, then "Connect" next to your adapter. 3. Choose "Full diagnosis." The first time, press "Activate PRO test" (it's free, you're not buying anything), then press "Full diagnosis" again. 4. Press "Run Auto-Scan VAG UDS," then "Run full Auto-Scan UDS," and wait until it finishes without locking your phone. 5. Press "Show result and fault clearing," take screenshots of the result, and go back with the arrow. 6. Press "Copy diagnostic log" and paste it to me in a private message or by email at [email protected]. Add the car, year, engine, gearbox and adapter. 🔒 The app masks the VIN and serial numbers in the log by itself. In the screenshots, cover the VIN if it's visible. Please send logs to me privately, not to the group. ⚠️ Don't use clearing in "Engine diagnostics" or "OBD Terminal," since Auto-Scan is enough for this test. Scan only with the car standing still. If you have VCDS, OBDeleven or Carista, please also send a screenshot of their fault list. That comparison would help me a lot. A log from a failed scan is valuable too, so send it freely. Thanks for your help! 🙏

So now you got no vibration at all?

First of all, thanks for all the input in this thread. I know it's been a while, but I finally found the root cause of the problem and wanted to share my findings. The problem turned out to occur almost exclusively on hot summer days. I suppose that explains why it didn't happen very often, considering I live in Sweden! Then the car started draining the battery. When I measured the current draw, I discovered that the infotainment system was consuming power even when the ignition was switched off. At the same time, the infotainment fault was still present. You were right that the problem was related to the CAN bus for the infotainment system. When I scanned the control units, the infotainment unit wasn't even detected. When I measured the CAN bus at the back of the infotainment unit, there was no voltage. About two years ago, I had problems with the electric tailgate actuator. Back then, I discovered broken wires in the moving wiring harness near the actuator. So this time, I removed the rubber boot for the bigger cable harness and found several wires with cracked insulation and broken conductors.

So the low mileage one 25K is 1K GBP more, built within a few months of each other Doesnt have DSG paddles, road sign recognition camera, drivers seat massage and has 19 inch rims rather than 18s. Massive difference in price and I have a trade account with a massive tyre wholesaler. The higher mile one has the above options 1K less but digging into its history, it had a cracked sump and lost oil to point red pressure light was noted but immediately turned off. Sump was replaced at a dealer and no issue reported since. Has the much cheaper tyres better colour but note on last mot for front lower arm bushes rear worn but not displaced or causing excessive movement. Im going to buy one or the other this weekend unless something else comes up.